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About iwonder

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    Car Restoration

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  1. Are both wheels jacked up when yo checked ARB? and if steering lock is on, you will get that noise.
  2. Your use doesn't match the needs of the IS220D to give it half a chance of being reliable. If anything, it will just make the common problems occur faster. I agree with those that say get petrol. The savings on repairs will more than make up for the insurance diffrence.
  3. They are only recommended for replacement at 60k for severe conditions (taxi usage, stop start/short distance) but I personally would do it at 60k regardless as all oil deteriorates.
  4. The photo was just an example and they are lexus OE, all shims I have binned have been due to corrosion and falling apart, they are all genuine shims. Most of the lexus range use the 2 piece shims (Inner is typically coated and rusts, outer is usually the stainless shim)
  5. Unfortunately they do corrode if they are coated (black shims usually). Stainless ones do not obviously.
  6. If you are replacing the ARB drop link, use locking pliers to stop it rotating and undo the nut. Helps if you clean the threads with a wire brush and soak the nut in a rust penetrant. Loosen a few turns and tighten back one. This is how I do pretty much all drop links unless is has a flat for a spanner.
  7. Front or rear? good price as I remember buying shims for double that. "To use these anti-squeal shim kits - cut with scissors to shape required and apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the hydraulic pistons or the caliper supports." I just cut the pads in the shape of the original shims and the stick to the back of the pads. Only apply 1 pad per brake pad, if you apply more than 1 your brake pedal will hit the floor when you brake with little resistance.
  8. Take it to a dealer and get the ECU software updated. Cheapest possible fix you can get. If ECU is up to date, transmission pan needs to be dropped to test the solenoids or you can do basic checks at the main connector.
  9. What tends to happen is either the inner shim corrodes and falls apart so they get binned or the replacement pads have their own shim so the old ones get binned (TRW pads usually have shims). They are pretty expensive but they do prevent squeal very well. The front shim kit comes with the pad end clip which help prevent noise from the pad rattling up and down the carrier. I cheap fix if your only interested in curing the noise is to use an aftermarket anti squeal pad or 3M double sided high temp tape, these work just as good.
  10. Shim kits are usually dealer only, you can make your own by cutting some anti squeal pads (ebay search: LARGE EBC ANTI SQUEAL SELF ADHESIVE BRAKE PAD SHIMS NOISE REDUCTION) For pins, try budweg or frenkit
  11. No comms, fan blasting and no start screams ECU to me as a first thought. I would start with what colin said, check ECU area for poor connection. I tend to drop gearbox and engine complete and take the loom with it so it could be something as simple as connector not fully locked in or a pin has been bent. If all ok, I would check power and grounds on ECU and also EOBD port. If thats ok I would then check sensor voltage, throttle position/coolant. This will give you an idea if the ECU is outputting correct voltage.
  12. Sorry for late response, haven't been on for a while. I think the red rubber grease description is maybe confusing as im sure its not the same as the red rubber grease you get it tubs which is vegetable/ester based. Nissan, subaru, toyota, lexus and probably more japanese manufacturers specify this red rubber grease. I believe the original manufacturer is niglube as that tube looks identical although the japanese writing was blue and i no longer have it, I have 3 different tube designs of the same grease and it now says for metal and rubber on the latest tube. Added a photo to clear any doubt
  13. If the inner edge is worn smooth then most likely a 4 wheel alignment wont fix it as it's pretty common. If tread (central 3/4) are within about 1mm of each other then it's not bad going to be honest.
  14. They should not be recommending either of those on a one year old car. I would be interested to know what engine cleaning fluid they are offering. Toyota 0W20 does a fine job as it is and really doesn't require extra cleaning. R134A refrigerant can leak up to 60g a year so they typically recommended every two years to account for this as well as to remove all the moisture in the system that has built up in that time. R1234YF is still fairly so I have yet to see consistent figures of acceptable refrigerant leakage over 1 year but they are supposed to retain refrigerant much better than the old type so maintenance can be increased to 3/4 years. One thing to consider also is what oil they are using. All dealers will carry ND8 and ND11 oil for hybrids and non hybrid vehicles. So if anyone uses kwik fit, halfords etc make sure they have ND11
  15. You can access CAN H/L at the EOBD port but if it is for tracker fitment, you will need to go to combination meter or passenger front footwell junction block for CAN access. Fitting a tracker anywhere near an EOBD port would be a very easy thing to spot and deactivate/remove. This is why the tracker companies usually take a few hours because they remove dash, center console or rear seats to hide wiring and unit.