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About iwonder

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  1. It will pass the MOT without the center cat. Don't forget the RX has a cat in each manifold which is monitored so no EML. As mentioned above hybrids don't apply for the emissions testing therefore doesn't apply for the inspections related to that, which is checking the cat is fitted. Straight pipe or add in a silencer.
  2. Blank of the pressure sensors, go for a long run and activate the regen.
  3. It's worthwhile replacing the fluid in the gearbox. Lexus advise every 60k for heavy use applications. If you remove the sump pan and strainer it will drain most of the oil.
  4. I haven't read every post but have you check your reservoir for hairline cracks? Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
  5. Are both wheels jacked up when yo checked ARB? and if steering lock is on, you will get that noise.
  6. Your use doesn't match the needs of the IS220D to give it half a chance of being reliable. If anything, it will just make the common problems occur faster. I agree with those that say get petrol. The savings on repairs will more than make up for the insurance diffrence.
  7. They are only recommended for replacement at 60k for severe conditions (taxi usage, stop start/short distance) but I personally would do it at 60k regardless as all oil deteriorates.
  8. The photo was just an example and they are lexus OE, all shims I have binned have been due to corrosion and falling apart, they are all genuine shims. Most of the lexus range use the 2 piece shims (Inner is typically coated and rusts, outer is usually the stainless shim)
  9. Unfortunately they do corrode if they are coated (black shims usually). Stainless ones do not obviously.
  10. If you are replacing the ARB drop link, use locking pliers to stop it rotating and undo the nut. Helps if you clean the threads with a wire brush and soak the nut in a rust penetrant. Loosen a few turns and tighten back one. This is how I do pretty much all drop links unless is has a flat for a spanner.
  11. Front or rear? good price as I remember buying shims for double that. "To use these anti-squeal shim kits - cut with scissors to shape required and apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the hydraulic pistons or the caliper supports." I just cut the pads in the shape of the original shims and the stick to the back of the pads. Only apply 1 pad per brake pad, if you apply more than 1 your brake pedal will hit the floor when you brake with little resistance.
  12. Take it to a dealer and get the ECU software updated. Cheapest possible fix you can get. If ECU is up to date, transmission pan needs to be dropped to test the solenoids or you can do basic checks at the main connector.
  13. What tends to happen is either the inner shim corrodes and falls apart so they get binned or the replacement pads have their own shim so the old ones get binned (TRW pads usually have shims). They are pretty expensive but they do prevent squeal very well. The front shim kit comes with the pad end clip which help prevent noise from the pad rattling up and down the carrier. I cheap fix if your only interested in curing the noise is to use an aftermarket anti squeal pad or 3M double sided high temp tape, these work just as good.
  14. Shim kits are usually dealer only, you can make your own by cutting some anti squeal pads (ebay search: LARGE EBC ANTI SQUEAL SELF ADHESIVE BRAKE PAD SHIMS NOISE REDUCTION) For pins, try budweg or frenkit
  15. No comms, fan blasting and no start screams ECU to me as a first thought. I would start with what colin said, check ECU area for poor connection. I tend to drop gearbox and engine complete and take the loom with it so it could be something as simple as connector not fully locked in or a pin has been bent. If all ok, I would check power and grounds on ECU and also EOBD port. If thats ok I would then check sensor voltage, throttle position/coolant. This will give you an idea if the ECU is outputting correct voltage.