SpeedyGee

It's been 10 days, need to see another video! LOL

Oh hell yeah! My kinda project! LOL I'm really excited about this as I've always pondered about it. I would for sure love to do such a project.

Here's a interesting/depressing pic showing compatible alternatives.... of which there aren't many.

Cool, thanks. I shall try that next time.

That's not right, they won't fit at all. Different PCD. The GS's have 5x114.3 which is not all that common. You can get Rivera RV177's in the right PCD, however, as these are off an Audi, so the stud pattern of these is 5x112.

So this works until you next unlock the car by pressing the unlock button?

Nicky, that's a fantastic outcome!

Coming together nicely buddy 👍

Not to my knowledge.

Yousaf, if you search ebay for TechStream, you will see that you buy it as a USB to OBD dongle plus software. You need a 32 bit Windows OS equipped laptop (to make it less of a headache with getting the USB serial drivers working), install the software and drivers on the laptop, connect the OBD dongle to car and to PC and run the TechStream software. Have a look at this video, I've not watched it (I'm at work) but it seems to show how you how to connect and use TechStream

My tyre pressure warning light has come on several times in the last week, although admittedly it does seem that the rear offside is losing some tyre pressure. I pumped the right tyre pressure into it on Friday and yesterday the light came back on. So I think I've got a slow leak as opposed to a TPMS issue. YouTube is your friend, I've had a quick glance at this video and it seems pretty informative. You can get TechStream hardware and software off eBay for quite cheap. Aside from that, you need a Tyre guy to get the tyre off the rim and then you would need someone who can solder to solder in the new tabbed battery.

Good work John! Nicely documented too 👍

If you are only changing pads (and not doing a bleed), this should cover it:-

Hi Chris, Yes, there are some precautions that you need to take. Have a read through this thread It covers everything you need know.

Sounds like bottom end knock.

We won't get to know the cause of the failure but at the end of the day, all cars are mechanical and therefore culpable to failure. Whether that be due to poor design, poor maintenance, bad luck or whatever, a engine failure can happen to any make, any model, any manufacturer. This one failure does not mean that Lexus cars are unreliable, not unless it's a common route cause across many engine failures, which I don't think is the case. Conversely, running an engine at max load, for any realistic amount of time (1 or 2 hours say, which is some going anyway) is still not pushing it to its limits. In engine development, engines are run for hundreds of hours at max load on rigs, so it should not in itself cause failure.

Sorry to hear of the engine failure. Rather unusual for a Lexus engine to fail all of a sudden. Not sure what you mean by "engine collapsed". Could you tell us more. Has anyone looked at the engine yet? Any conclusions?

Any luck getting it sorted @shinjuki ?

Just dug up the thread over there and am having a read.

Drivers side yes but oddly I think the Jaguar engines (at least the Ford units) were on the same side too.

Bank 1 and Bank 2 refer to the banks of cylinders on the V. So the V configuration of the engine has 3 cylinders on each bank. Each Bank has 2 O2 sensors, primary or upstream called sensor 1 and secondary or downstream called sensor 2.

What is the state of charge of the HV battery? If it's still decent, you should be able to get more cranks out of it. If not then you need to find a way to get it charged up. I would be tempted to get the 12v battery connected to a jump starter pack and try again, for every three failed attempts, clear the codes of ECU, on these Toyota/Lexus hybrid systems this won't charge the HV battery but it will help eliminate low voltage issue adding to the problem. Does the engine sound like it is firing at all? Ie firing but firing only some cylinders or just not firing at all?

Yes, that's right Bob, sensor 2 is post cat and that's a good suggestion, it is worth swapping the sensors around. Cat's don't go easily though, hence I was wondering about a leak.

What condition is the exhaust system in? Any signs of any leaks? Especially before the O2 sensor. Would be worth monitoring the fuel trim readings of both banks, see if that gives a clue.

Get the code rechecked and see if it's the same code or a different one this time.