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Everything posted by m4rkw

  1. I think mines going to be on the left because that’s where the wheel is, I can’t seem to get the boot liner at the back of the boot to lift up though
  2. https://jpnz.co.nz/product/toyota-harrier-2/ £50 for a Harrier manual professionally translated into english (actually £30 plus £20 shipping from NZ). Really tempted but not sure it'll tell me anything that I can't get from the RX manual that came with the car. I have noticed some subtle differences though. Hrmm.
  3. I don’t suppose you know how to drop the spare wheel on a harrier? I’ve got an appointment for a new tyre for it but no idea how to lower it. Can’t see anything obvious under the boot liner where the tools are.
  4. If I drive in S mode I can control the gears as you'd expect. If I leave it in D and then come to a stop, flip the lever over to S it usually indicates 3 but when I move off the car doesn't seem to struggle. What's going on? It can't be pulling away in 3rd
  5. So why is it defaulting to 3 by itself? That’s what I still don’t understand. If I move it from auto to S surely the default should be to use all the gears unless I tell it otherwise?
  6. I'm confused. Why would it be set that way when it was driving in full auto mode and then switched to S mode? In full auto it should surely use all the gears.. otherwise what's the point in having them? If it's in S-mode which is meant to be manual, still it makes no sense. Why would it not use higher than 3rd? What's it going to do if I take it to the redline in 3rd on that setting? cut the engine?
  7. Didn't quite work out initially but I went to see the guy today and got a generic VW-style key programmed to the car. Looks a bit different to a Lexus key but it works fine so will do as a backup and much cheaper than the dealer.
  8. So I recently got a new shell and cut key blade from the awesome ebay seller who cuts to code/picture but I’d like to have a spare remote key. My car is a 2006 harrier, I found this: http://japan.toylexparts.com/harrier/521120/acu30w-awpgk/350w/001/3/6712/674241c http://japan.toylexparts.com/harrier/521120/acu30w-awpgk/350w/001/3/6712/674241c/89071B so it seems the transmitter module in the key has its own part# - 8907148140. So my plan is to just buy one of those from the dealer, get another shell and cut key from the ebay wizard and program it myself. It looks like the immobiliser chip can be programmed easy enough with techstream and the remote module is just a ritual with opening doors etc. Is there any reason this won’t work? Online pricing for the module suggests around £125 whereas a full key I was quoted over £200 for.
  9. Is there anyone not too far from Morden who could adjust some customisation options for me for a reasonable fee? Not having much luck with the fleabay vendors of techstream. Specifically I want to: - disable driveaway locking - disable beeps on lock/unlock (which I'm pretty sure is illegal in the uk anyway, not sure why that wasn't done when the car was imported) - disable the beeping on reverse if possible The car is a 2006 Lexus RX-300 but is actually a harrier, engine code 2AZ-FE model CBA-ACU30W-AWPGK. I could go to a garage but they'll charge an hour's labour for 5mins of clicking.
  10. Usually it’s when i stop and go to get the shopping or my dog out of the back. I pull the handle every time before realising it’s locked. or used to anyway it’s fixed now :)
  11. It’s annoying having to unlock the doors when you stop, i always forget. Also my car isn’t worth enough to worry too much about carjackers, if i drive through central london i always lock the doors but anywhere else.. meh. I did notice there was an option to have the doors unlock when you select park but i’d rather it just left them alone.
  12. Finally got a working techstream cable and disabled that annoying driveaway locking! Also managed to turn off the lock/unlock beeps but then decided I actually prefer them :D
  13. I found an ebay seller who can get aftermarket modules so gonna try that first. £40 for a full new working remote key will be awesome if it works.
  14. Could be an idea yeah. I’d go for scanning it for codes before anything else, and probably avoid driving it as that might cause more damage.
  15. I’m not a transmission expert. How many miles are on it and has it ever been serviced? I think RX of that generation are known for having weak transmissions. If a reputable garage has said it may just be sensors then I’d be inclined to take their advice as I suspect sensors are going to be much cheaper than most other things that you might need to do to fix a transmission. In any case if a sensor is bad it may show up in techstream. If it’s never been serviced then you probably want to do that at the same time.
  16. Here is some good information about transmission issues: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/355 You can also email the guy who runs that website, he's very knowledgable about transmissions and happily answers questions for free: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/contact
  17. When you say impulses what do you mean? Is it like a hard shift?
  18. I dropped my car off for a change of the power steering fluid and the coolant. All done and on the invoice there is a "cooling system flush" listed at 13.99+vat which presumably is some kind of cleaning chemical. Should I be concerned that they've put something into the cooling system other than antifreeze and distilled water?
  19. I just called the garage, they said they used the Toyota Red stuff that the car calls for and that they always check what each car requires. So that's good. The flush they said is something that 9/10 cleans the cooling system out, so I guess I'll trust them on that.
  20. I was under the impression that nothing should go into the system other than antifreeze and distilled water, and that if a garage uses the word "flush" you can basically prefix it with the word "wallet".
  21. No, there are three items: Coolant flush - 13.99 Antifreeze - 18.00 Labour for drain/refill/bleeding the coolant system - 78 The labour is indicated separately.
  22. Sat idle my car's battery voltage, as read by the custom arduino-based tracker I've got in it, is fluctuating between around 9.6v and 11.5v. Does this suggest a bad battery? It didn't struggle to start earlier but it seems odd for it to be fluctuating continuously by 2v.
  23. Ahhh that's probably what it was then - I had nipped out to check something in the manual. I'm not sure sure where it's connected as my car audio guys did it but it should be a permanent 12V feed.
  24. Thanks, this is as measured by an arduino-based tracker running custom firmware that I've designed for it. It was lifted and shifted from my previous car, a vw passat, where I never saw this happen. The voltage on that car always just very gradually dropped when the car was idle until it died around 9.6v and the tracker went offline (when it was parked at an airport for a long holiday). Strangely having inspected the logs from the Lexus it was alternating between about 12.5 and 9.6 for a 10min period between 9pm and 9.10pm last night, and then since then it hasn't dropped once. Very odd.
  25. I think I'll stick with genuine Toyota DOT3. No real reason not to as far as I can see.