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Everything posted by m4rkw

  1. https://www.obd-codes.com/p0102 seems like something related to the MAF is still not quite right.
  2. I was shocked when I realised Mad Max was dystopian fiction, I thought it was just a documentary about australia in the 80s :D
  3. Unless you're buying a throwaway car for a grand or less, always get a trusted mechanic to inspect it before you part with your money. The few times you'll pay someone to do this on a car you don't end up buying are still way better outcomes than if you actually bought a car with a serious problem.
  4. Mostly likely a sensor under the seat. It arms the passenger airbag when someone is sitting in the seat, typically as the seat is moved back and forth the wires get damaged. Could also be a control module or a wiring issue somewhere, you'd have to take it to someone who can diagnose it for you. If it is the sensor you may be able to get a bypass module on ebay that will bypass the sensor and just leave the airbag armed all the time, however bear in mind it would probably be illegal to later sell the car to someone else without telling them about this.
  5. Personally in the world of cars I take the term "approved" to mean "we'd like to sell you this" and nothing more. It's pretty unlikely that the first 3 services were missed - nobody buys a car that expensive and then doesn't service it. But generally I agree with the other advice here - make them certify it fully before parting with your money.
  6. Definitely sounds like a wheel bearing given your description of it. Euro have kits for the front listed at 78.99 and rear 152.99 - https://www.eurocarparts.com/wheel-bearing-and-wheel-hub
  7. The fault indicated on the dash is a *current* error condition. The codes stored in the computer's history are historic error conditions. If the light is out it means the error condition is not currently present, you can safely delete the history without causing any lights to appear. Of course if the fault is still present but very intermittent there is a chance it may come back at some point anyway.
  8. If I were doing this myself I'd get the gearbox nice and hot first, drain and fill, then drive it 10 miles or so and do it again and replace the filter on the second fill.
  9. I think it was the older ones wasn't it? I've read a bunch of stories online about transmission failures on the first generation (XU10).
  10. They're not lying about the fluid lasting the lifetime of the car, when that fluid's burnt up the car's done :D I'd say 50k miles or so and don't use anything but the original specified fluid and a Toyota filter if the filter is replaceable. Toyotec did mine earlier in the year for a total of about £300. They showed me a jug full of the old liquid - it was dark brown and clearly used up.
  11. Other way around - Toyota Harrier with a Lexus badge. Same body but different engine and gearbox and fewer toys.
  12. Is that true for the gearbox in the Harrier as well? Asking because mine is a Harrier and I know it has a different transmission from the V6s. If you can point me to any data for this I'd be very interested to see it.
  13. Indeed they did, but hey I'll take a few less mpg if I don't have to ever replace a hybrid battery pack :P
  14. @Clive-D sounds like good news. Lets hope that the MAF failing was the only problem and that it wasn't something else, like say a bad earth, that caused the MAF to burn out and die. Regarding the light, you may be able to clear the error with techstream if you have it, or it may be that the computer runs a specific test only under certain conditions. For example the test that relates to the EVAP emissions system will only run when the fuel tank is above 1/4 and below 3/4 of fuel, and possibly also only when the engine is run up to temperature for enough time. I've no idea if there are similar tests for MAF-related issues, most likely it's just a persistent error code that needs to be reset manually with a scan tool like techstream.
  15. http://www.toyotec.co.uk/services.html These guys did my gearbox fluid change when I first got my car, they seemed to know what they were doing. I think there are a few toyota specialists in surrey.
  16. Actually you could email the guy from that podcast Louis Altazan, he knows Toyota/Lexus very well and might be able to tell you what’s likely wrong with it and whether it’s safe to drive. go to agcoauto.com and fill in the contact page, he’ll get back to you usually within an hour and answers email about any car problems for free.
  17. Btw you might like the podcast “the automotive hour”. Those guys run a garage in Baton Rouge and they’re constantly telling stories of people who’ve come into the shop having spent hundreds of dollars on parts, often in response to error codes, without fixing their problem only to be told it was something silly like a broken wire 🙂 I’ve learnt a lot about cars listening to them.
  18. I haven’t a clue sorry. Maybe someone else can answer that.
  19. Get an indy to diagnose it, you could end up replacing a perfectly good OEM MAF sensor with a dodgy aftermarket one and just cause even more problems in addition to the one you have. It sounds like a clear problem so i can’t see it costing more than an hours labour to diagnose.
  20. I'm due brakes soon too actually, I get a nice shaking steering wheel when braking from high speed. Guessing that's the fronts rather than the rears.
  21. I'd be very hesitant to use anything but OEM brake components. Just my $0.02, I'm sure lots of people do and have no issues but the OEM components are designed specifically for the car with the right pad material, friction coefficient etc, and probably last longer than some of the aftermarket ones. Sometimes the cheapest way out is the most expensive way in :)
  22. @Clive-D It's important to bear in mind that ECU error codes are not direct indicators of an actual specific fault, they are simply the result of a particular error condition occurring which could have many possible causes, sometimes hundreds or even thousands of potential causes. Many people fall into the trap of seeing an "O2 sensor code" (or whatever) and just assume that it's a nice logical simple system and they can simply replace the sensor to correct the issue. There's some good advice in this thread re cleaning the MAF etc, but if those avenues don't work out don't start throwing parts at it without getting a definitive diagnosis from a garage that knows what they're doing because you'll run out of money before you run out of guesses :)
  23. Ya'll aren't doing too bad. I got a Harrier because the dealer said the small engine was more economical. Averaging about 19-20mpg but I drive fast.