JamesIS220

I have the now discontinued Goodyear Ultra Grip 9 winter tyres since 2016 on my 1996 Volvo 940 rear wheel drive automatic. They transformed the car, over Michelin Summer tyres.

Could actually pull away and stop and steer in deep snow like the beast from the east. Would go goodyear again. Now do Ultra Grip 9+ Highly recommended.

I think so long as no cords showing in the cracks then legal.

I bought a 2015 Auris Hybrid when it was 5 years old and the Continental eco contact front tyres were cracked on the outside wall at 5 years old and 26,000miles. Legal apparently, but felt uneasy and only had 3.8mm of tread so a few months later had fitted 4x Goodyear efficient grip performance 2's and seem a good tyre. Fronts are now 3.6mm so will probably replace them in the Autumn. rears around 5.5mm

Also had a Lexus IS220D with Goodyear tyres and they were cracked at 3-5 years old. Fitted budget Avon 7v7 and glad I did as scrapped 3 months later as head gasket went at 187k.

Volvo on Michelin energy savers and Goodyear ultra grip 9 winter tyres.  

James.

On 1/3/2024 at 8:11 AM, PaulWhitt20 said:

Don’t you mean Johnny English?

 

That's the one!

1 hour ago, Newbie777 said:

Hello,

Sorry not Lexus related, but thought I post to let you guys know how bad it can be with other prestigious marques.

Yesterday my Bentley Continental GT, which was all fine, developed a steering fault after I parked up. The message on the dash was steering malfunction see dealership. Annoyingly, I could not start the car, or even put it into Neutral.

RAC guy came out checked everything including battery (new 1 week old)  fuses, no joy.

As there is no power to the ignition he could not read fault codes, worst bit I  was blocking my neighbours car and drive.

Today a sub contractor for RAC brought a big trailer and picked up my car and placed it on my drive, very scary but comical at the same time!

I did some research and I think it is the steering column control module, located under the steering wheel at fault. This also annoyingly sends a signal to immobiliser as if car is being stolen, so everything shuts down!

It affects Porsches, VW Tourag, Audi A8. All the same group.

I found out that the module can be fixed (some chips replaced on the circuit board) and the guy is in London.

However, I would need to get someone to strip the steering wheel and dash to get the module out. So arranged for a mechanic/auto electrician to do this later in the week.

So all bad news, however..

Researched more on the Internet and came across an interesting read on pistonheads.

A guy suggested. Using the VCDS (vag com ond scanner),which I have, keeping the key in ignition and turned at the same time go to electronics part, manually select the auto start area and it will eventually show some faults. Click on clear faults.

I did this with key turned and eventually saw the faults and after a few attempts of clearing code (where nothing happened) eventually it worked, guess what?  Thecar starts and everything works!

Will still get control module fixed, but who would have known this special procedure?

Very happy got this far, but this what to expect when you buy luxury German cars,not all what they seem

 

 

Sorry to hear of your car issues, but at least know what's wrong.

Picture is very James Bond!!

Looks as has been said to be knackered. Cracking, split, between the top C and the H in MICHELIN, and seems to of spent it's life rubbing against kerbs. Side of tyre looks well worn, cracking.

New tyre time unfortunately. Check them all for splits.

16 minutes ago, Boomer54 said:

Then we have the problem. What do we call it?

VID Vehicle ignition Device.

VSD Vehicle Start Device.

Not good.

I used to drive my Grandparents Volvo 1.4 340. That had 1 screen in 5 years. A few months later, same road another stone hit it and chipped it! We left it. Previous screen was a used one for £25 as in rubber surround/non bonded and £25 to install.

Many decades later only had one other screen cracked by flying stone was on my 1996 Volvo 940. Paid £195 for a new replacement.

My Toyota Auris screen has 3 stone chips in it on passenger side. Never an issue for MOT at Toyota and will not repair as phoned around and the cost was more than a new screen excess! 

James

On 11/9/2023 at 6:13 AM, Keeling54 said:

I wasn't so lucky with mine. 

And that wasn't the MOT failure. 

Had a 1989 Volvo 240 GLT auto estate that I sold in 2018 and around 4 years prior the nearside front outrigger area looked like that after the rusty hole had been cut away. Re plated it at a cost of £50. Patch around 8 inches by 4. 2 years later rotten again at weld. Removed, cleaned up and re-welded in more metal. Cost this time £150. Was solid still when sold 2 years on.  Good car, covered 72,000 miles with me over 9 years and sold running great at 234,000 miles. B230E mechanical Bosch K jet injection. 

Had the MOT on my 1996 Volvo 940 petrol estate with 209,000 miles on.

Usual place has stopped doing MOT's as needed 15k upgrade.

Went to another place recommended and passed with 2 advisories.

1st can't understand as front disks look perfect. Corrosion to the disks/worn. Front replaced with brembo disks and only do 1-1.5k a year and disks look perfect. Think he must of meant rear as older than front.

Rear brake hose corroded or covered in grease. Can imagine it's underseal/ waxoil as spray the underside/wheel wells every few years. 

Not bad, so not complaining. A nervous wait!

James.

Volvo 780 with redblock turbo engine, cream leather and red paint for me!

Have had a 340, 740, 240 and last 6 years a 96 940.

James

A Volvo 240.

Robust, sturdy, reliable, has character and charm.

James.

I would be parking it at the dealer who sold it and giving them the keys. If on a lease, discuss with lease company.

I would write a letter, to have ready listing all faults. If possible reject the car and give them the letter there and then and follow it up with email and recorded delivery letter. State whether you want it repaired or a new car. 

Certainly sounds bad.

James.

A vicious dog who lives in the car! That would surprise them. Use plenty of sheets to protect from blood splatter!

If only we could! Sadly be arrested. If on drive some bollards, but if really valuable may break into your home and confront you for the keys.

James.

Topless is always better. Lol!

Put a load more insulation than what the building regs state and good airtightness. Certainly would add solar panels. If you get these right then no boiler/rads needed.

I like old properties, but have always wanted to build quite literally a house that's circular/ round out of brick or octagonal. Slate roof or thatch. All reclaimed materials but modern cavity wall etc.

James

Looks quite deep and myself I would replace it for safety reasons.

Order the same make/brand/tread pattern online and delivered at the various online tyre places and have/ fitted at your nearest tyre place. Alternatively seek a tyre fitters advice.

James,

1 hour ago, Spacewagon52 said:

Out of interest James, would you buy another Lexus?

I would. Quite like the older RX400 and LS430. Insurance costs put me off a few years, as twice what I was paying for a Volvo. Like estates so Toyota suits.

51 minutes ago, dutchie01 said:

And thats why you see so many very very old Volvos running around the countryside in Sweden, they just never die!

Yep, older Volvo's don't complain even when I was unemployed for 18 months running my 1989 240 GLT estate. Did nothing to it in 18 months and just carried on going. Only changed the oil/filter myself.

Rust is an issue with the 240 and 940 is starting. Some can be very bad if lived by the coast. My 1996 940 has needed a 2 inch by 2 inch patch on drivers side jacking point last year. Cost £60 with the MOT.

The 240 was sold as I had 3 cars at the time. Wasn't using it and sold at 234,000 miles for £500. It drove perfect, me having put on 72,000 miles in 10 years.

940 turbo good too, although soon rebuilding the front suspension as getting creaky and knocking. Nearside shock absorber started leaking. Only noticed as under there fitting used AC pipes and getting the AC working. 940 petrol has done 209,000 miles. 

James.

I should of got an IS 250 Auto.

Bought a 2006 220d on a wim off eBay.

Loved the comfort, safety, build quality and colour.

Didn't like the gearbox 6 speed lag. Massive turbo lag from the lights. Engine it's biggest letdown and gearbox.

Head gasket went at 187,000 miles after 19 months ownership. Bought it as after 4 years of Lexus history full history thereafter and no advisories and full pass MOT history.

Mine was the basic SE trim.

Stick to my Volvo 940 and Toyota Auris. Would get another Lexus, just pass on the Diesel. Photo the day it went.

James.

7 hours ago, Spacewagon52 said:

That is REAL Bangernomics James! Did you have any costly repairs?

Best car? Auris or Volvo?

 

Always passed the MOT with either no advisories or sometimes failed on a track rod end. Worst most expensive repair was on my 1989 240GLT at 201,000 miles. Returning home the 30 miles and around 20 miles into the journey the auto gearbox area was banging massively and nocking badly. Had it recovered and the next day had a new propshaft centre bearing replaced. Collected it and the same noise. Garage couldn't find the issue so recovered free to a Volvo specialist. Volvo specialist replaced the worn tail output bearing and said it's ready to collect! It wasn't same banging/knocking noise. I didn't drive it like a Granny, like the garage. Investigated further and replaced the gearbox mount then noticed the gearbox cross member had bent. Fitted a used cross member and all was fixed. Between the 2 garages cost £400 Not bad really. Other things just age related like new cooling rad/hoses and everyday service items.

Volvo 940 nothing expensive so far, just service/maintenance items, cooling items, Nissens rad, Volvo hoses. Engine/gearbox original redblock and Austin Warner auto AW70. Lately 2nd issue as running badly and not starting now as needs a new Crankshaft Sensor. £43 A few years ago had it's first breakdown in 6 years. In that instance the in tank fuel pump was dead. New Bosch pump off eBay for £80 and 6 hours of me removing old pump and sender and all was well. Fiddly job getting it back in, took longer!

The older Volvo rear wheel drives have served me very well and generally very reliable. Will now no longer buy cheap crank sensor as 2nd replacement to fit. This time a Bosch original.

I do like my Auris for it's cheap running costs and zero road tax. Volvo wins for putting a smile on my face and it's character. The auto really suits it. Good engine and gearbox combo, virtually no turbo lag. Not fast, but adequate. Very tunable if you want 250-300BHP. Mine is LPT 135bhp, B230FK engine. Low pressure turbo. HPT 165BHP. Road tax is £325 for the year!

James.

Generally had Volvo bangers.

My first car that I bought  after passing my test at age 21 was a 1986 Volvo 740GLE Estate. Paid £425.00 in 2001/2. Had it for 5 years.

Then a new Toyota Corolla 1.4d4d hatch in 2007 while living in Normandy, France.

Sold Toyota as sold up in France in 2010 and bought a 1989 Volvo 240 GLT auto estate in Birmingham for £350.

Drove that for 8 years in County Kerry and the UK and bought a 1996 Volvo 940 SE LPT Auto estate for £250. Still have this with 209,000 miles! Playing up, needs a new 2nd crank sensor. Bosch one this time.

Sold the 240 for £500 in 2018 with 234,000 miles.

Bought a 2006 Lexus is 220D for £1,475 and got 19 months out of it before HG went. Should of got 250.

Scrapped the Lexus for £350 and bought a 2015 Toyota Auris Hybrid estate. Owned for around 3 years. My best car. Volvo my workhorse.

James.

So glad you are OK and didn't hit any other cars.

This is one reason why I choose a good brand of tyre. I either go for Michelin Energy savers on my 1996 Volvo 940 and on my 2015 Auris Hybrid have fitted Goodyear efficient grip Mk2.

When I bought my Volvo 940 6 years ago it had 3 different makes of tyre and tread pattern! Went to Ireland in it to County Kerry on the SW coast and the rear end let go on a double roundabout. Did a right at first roundabout the immediately left at 2nd. It upset the balance and felt the rear sliding out. Managed to correct it. Shocked me as doing around 23mph. Volvo only has ABS brakes and drivers airbag. When I returned to the UK 11 weeks later I fitted the energy savers.

James

If you really like the shape and size of a 220D buy an is 250 Auto.

Much better as not diesel. I liked the comfort, safety and solidness of the 220D but the turbo lag, mismatched gearbox was on another level. Liked driving my 1996 Volvo 940 Auto low pressure Turbo petrol. Still own it. On 208,000 miles and drives great.

James. 

I got £350 for my 2006 220D when I scrapped it as the head gasket had gone. Bought for £1,475.00. 

They are not worth investing in. I had bought a matching spare alloy, replaced the AC condenser, aftermarket nissens brand and got the AC working. 3 months before HG went fitted 4x new Avon 7v7 tyres. 205/55/16 if memory right. New drive belt/auxillary. 

I got 19 months out of it. It was high mileage when scrapped around 187,000 miles, but had full independent service history and impeccable MOT history.  but HG can go at anytime.

James.

An awful experience.

So glad you were all able to get out. Very rare I believe for a car to catch fire.  A 2008 Lexus has lots of airbags including knee airbags. 

Wishing you all the best. I would buy another if budget is tight.

I have 2 cars:

A 2015 Toyota Auris Hybrid. Last year £368. This year with 4 years NCD. Best I could do was £507.48. Original renewal was £544. Went on comparison site and only slightly cheaper, and company I had never heard of.

1996 Volvo 940. Last year. £248. This year £291. 10 years NCD.

Both insured for business use. 8,000 and 5,000 miles. No endorsements or accidents.

Certainly has gone up.