Manee

Thanks for the heads up.

Hello, I am after a complete rear bumper including crash bars for a 2007 GS450H. Ideally I want one in black colour, anyone breaking or have one, please do let me know. Much appreciated.

Thanks for your suggestion as well @ hybridbatterysolutions.

Really appreciate your offer Farqui. So nice of you. Will get in contact when I will come on that side. Regards.

Thanks Farqui. Really appreciate your help.Your input has narrowed down my search, otherwise I was wondering which one I should go for, as don't have a positive experience before with these dongles. Regards.

I use android, thanks for your heads up, I was not considering this option. Will look into it as well. Regards.

I m hoping to take it in to some garage who can actually read the codes with proper tools, failing that as said earlier, on the look out for diagnostic kit for such scenarios, any heads up will be highly appreciated. Regards.

I didn't unhook the battery for the MOT, I was trying to clean the instrument cluster after the test, took the terminal off before removing the fascia for a better access. Took it off as initially did not want any warning lights as a result of fascia removal. Well that was the plan and rest is history 😇. Maybe it triggered something but so far it is behaving itself (touch wood). Now I am on look out for some diagnostic kit, will see how my search end up🤔.

Right a quick update: I was searching online about this light combination, I came across a tip that if you press the brake padel 8-10 times with ignition at acc/on option, it will clear the check hybrid/vsc light temporarily. Thought there is nothing to lose in giving it a try. As mentioned before I unplugged and plugged the -ve 12v battery terminal, so I just loosened it and re tight it. After that I turned on the ignition and still no joy, so I had all the worst thoughts for the hybrid system.... So I just switched off the car and was abt to make a call to recovery service, thought I would give a try to that trick which I read abt online, so ignition in full on position without car being started, pumped the brake 11 times, ignition switch off and on, so moment of truth yes it cleared the check hybrid system and warning triangle error, only thing left was check engine light. So I drove the car around the block and no more check hybrid vsc light, wohooo. Fingers crossed that it sorted the issue😎. Coming to check engine light, after driving around the block with no warning sign for the check hybrid system, I switched off the car completely and switched back on, and behold no more Check engine lights at all....🤩. Drove again for another 10 mins and no more xmas lights on dash at all..... wohoooo. I will keep my eyes at this for next few days, hopefully it would not return. Looks like it's my lucky escape, thought I would share my experience as it may help others, who could be in such scenario and need a quick fix. Regards.

Evening all Looking for some help, took my car for MOT this morning which it sailed through without any hesitation and full bill of health. Ironically since it passed it test, witinin an hour it developed check hybrid system and check engine light. Unfortunately I don't have any diagnostic kit to check exactly what could be at fault but anyone can shed some light what it might be related to. Just to let you know that before taking it for MOT I get the front tyres changed and after mot I unplugged and plugged 12v battery, since then I am having these MSG's. Any help would be highly appreciated. Regards.

Its pretty straight forward, only tricky bit is getting under the driver side footwell to undo/do 2 x 10mm nuts on the foot brake padel. There are two Philips head screws on each corner of lower trim level, nuts can be undone whilst brake is still applied, but once it's released to carry out the work, I think it's easy to do these nuts whilst the lower trim panel is off. The steps I tooks are First I undid the 2x10mm bolts. Quick tip is deep socket, ask me why 😁. I undid when the parking brake was applied, it made it so much easier. REMEMBER to release the brake afterwards before moving to take off the wheels. Second step is take off the wheel AFTER securing/stabilising the car, don't forget to use wheel chokes or any thing which can be placed in front of wheel to stop the car from rolling. I used a piece of wood as wheel choke. If possible use your tyre or any other stand/axel stand/wood as a dead weight under the car to prevent any mishap. Once the the wheel is off, take out the little rubber grommet. Quick tip is to use nose pliars, initially I used flat head screw driver but ended up it being inside the disc hub. So lesson learnt and used nose pliars on the next wheel. After removing the grommet need to locate the adjustment lever. All the YouTube videos I watched, showed the adjustment screw/lever is in 6 o clock position. Well it did not happen in my case🙄. I spent 45 mins looking for this adjustment leverage 😥. Anyway in the end I had to take off the disc from hub to locate it. I ensure that in this process I did not have the keys anywhere near the car as I did not want to take any risk for the caliper piston to shoot out. To remove the disc, first I remove the brake fluid reservoir cap to eliminate any a pressure building in it, I then pushed the piston back before removing the caliper, quick tip is to use flat head screw driver to push the brake pad a bit, once there is a little gap to accommodate screw driver head, put the screw driver in it and use disc as a leverage to push the brake piston back. Once it's has enough space then undo the bolt on top of calliper and once undone caliper will swing down allowing enough space to remove disc. A 21mm socket will do the magic. Once calliper is off. The way to take off disc is to just tap gently but firmly on the disc with a small hammer, I used a solid rubber hammer to avoid any damage. It will loose the disc and the disc can be taken off easily. Once disc is off, rub its internals either with wire brush or with some sand paper lightly, to remove any dust or rust. Please ensure if you use sand paper don't go with full blown steam on either pads or discs as it will damage them. After taking off the disc I found that the adjustment screw was towads the end of the car i.e. 9 o clock position. After cleaning the pads and disc I put the disc back and checks the disc was freely floating. I then adjusted the lever/screw in question. I used a flat head screw driver and moved the lever/screw towards the front of the car. After few turns I checked whether the disc was still floating free or the pads are stopping it. Once the disc was stuck by pads, I loosened it a bit and once I was happy then I put the caliper and wheel back accordingly. I did the same process on both sides. After putting the wheels back and closing the brake resorvoir, I started to tighten the 2x10mm nuts on the foot padel, at this stage lowering the plastic trim really help as it gives some space to work on. As mentioned in the start, deep socket makes it a lot more easier as compared to normal socket, because to tighten these nuts with normal socket you have to do it in a awkward position 🤐. once the nut on back is tightened, the nut on the front (locking nut) can be adjusted accordingly and you can have a fully working parking brake with a foot padel that does not sink into the floor anymore. Please consider whilst tightening the nuts don't over tight them as they will over strecth the main cable. I kept checking the padel travel after tightening initially, once I was happy with the padel movement, I tightened the locking nut. This is how I adjusted my parking brake system, any suggestions to improve it would be highly appreciated. If you want to adjust your parking brake system, please do it on your risk as I will not be responsible for your actions. Thanks Manee

Evening all So finally I managed to sort out the parking brakes today. Took me some time but I finally sort it out. Pads still have enough to keep the car stopped. Now it's nice and firm with only 2-3 clicks and is not sinking at all in the floor. Thanks a lot for all your input. Manee

Thanks for your time John. Regards.

Thanks for your reply Sami. Much appreciated. I will update how I will get on, looking to do it over the coming weekend.

Hi Simon, Looks like the us/Jap spec cars have the reverse lights in the cluster, you are referring but these don't contain the fog lights as it is not a requirement for those markets. I wanted to do the same mode, you can have lights from US eBay sellers but whether these will have built in fog lights or not, it is not clear. There are some Japanese seller who apparently sell the lights which can comply with our rules. I have not investigated into much as to me it's is a bit expensive when you consider the purchase price and with potential import duty on top of it at home, the link is as below; http://www.78-works.jp/smartphone/detail.html?id=000000000161 You can have a look at these and if you go for it please do let me know as well. Thanks.