Jayw13702

It’s the simple jobs that give the biggest satisfaction sometimes. Over the last few months the bonnet catch has been a bit iffy, it won’t close without really slamming the bonnet on it and when opening it doesn’t “pop” when the handle is pulled. I put it down in part to the 145,000 miles the Lexus has now covered. Tonight I decided to remove and inspect it, not a difficult job. First remove the black plastic trim that sits along the front panel, there are about 10 self expanding clips that need popping out. Remove the plastic panel and this revealed the bonnet catch mechanism. The catch is held on by 3x10 mm bolts and the plastic dirt shield is held in place with 2 self expanding clips. In adoption there is also the bonnet warning switch wiring loon that is held on the dirt shield as well. With the catch off the car it was clear to see why it was so gummed up....white grease and general road crud had caused the pivots to almost seize. After about half an hour in the parts washer and a good going over with a stiff brush most of the debris was cleared off the latch, the micro switch that signals the warning light was taken off and cleaned up, all the pivots were oiled and freed up and the return springs were cleaned, oiled and reseated. Reassembled back on the car, all cleaned and tested, it all works like it did when I first bought the car now, that’s a win [emoji106] Last weekend I replaced the EGR cooler and egr, I’ll do a write up that shortly when I can finally look at the pictures without A) breaking out in a sweat B) having nightmares about the job It was a total pain in the backside, but a job that needed doing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Snows Lexus Plymouth, don't bother with their service dept, they are not at all helpful of friendly. I have had a few issue, but the worse was the chassis leg issue that I had about 12 months ago, they refused it under warranty only for it to be failed on a mot less than 6 months later. When I spoke to Lexus directly they claimed that they had no record of me ever raising this as an issue at the dealership. Despite me repeatedly asking to be taken off their mailing list they still call me/email etc, this may seem pathetic but it shows how they don't listen to customers requests Snows Lexus Exeter are marginally better, however they seldom have any parts in stock, everything is "factory order" Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Interesting how they are using Lexus parts on their EV conversions Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been a bit busier than I had though lately, it was only when I looked over my pics on my phone I could remember what I had done.... After 18 months of being a taxi the seats and carpets were looking a bit grubby, so out they came for a fabric wash, leather clean and leather feed. Getting the seats out is very simple, 4x13mm bolts hold the seat frames to the floor, one 17mm bolt holds the seatbelts to the seat and then 3 connectors under the seat (mine doesn’t have electric adjustments or heated pads) Once the seat has been detached from everything remove the headrest, tilt the seat forward and it can then be removed from the car easily. I cleaned mine on the bench as i wanted to clean all the carpets as well. Grubby, the leather looking a bit aged and generally unloved. After cleaning the fabric with a vax cleaner, the leather with hot water and saddle soap and then treating the leather with gliptone leather conditioner...... The difference isn’t easy to see on photos, I did a 50/50 on the leather, cleaned and treated on the left Once the fronts were done I did the rears in-situ and the carpet, the waste water was disgusting, a very dark brown. It took about 3 hours to do the lot, it look a lot newer and smells so much nicer now as well, it’s strange how you get used to it being slightly grubby, but when it’s cleaned you instantly feel and see the difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just passed 140,000 miles and generally still going strong, however I have noticed that the rear calipers were sticking. This Is common with Toyota and it seems Lexus suffer the same fate, the slider pins seize and the outer pad is then constantly in contact with the disc. £70 later a set of secondhand calipers were winging their way to me, the donor vehicle...... So they arrived, a low mileage set but still I ordered a new set of slider pins, boots and bolts and set about stripping them down After a quick wire wheel session All fitted back together and with a coat of silver paint So fitted them today, decided at the same time to do a brake fluid change as well, pretty simple really. Using a syringe I drained the brake fluid reservoir fully and then topped it back up with the new fluid, then it was a case of doing one side at a time and pulling enough fluid through to ensure you have flushed the system of old fluid, pretty easy as you can see a colour difference. Because the Lexus uses a brake booster pump bleeding is a little different from normal, it’s still a two person job but there’s no pumping of the brake required. Press the start button twice so the ignition is on but ready is not showing on the dash. Have the assistant push the break pedal, this will fire up the brake pump. With their foot on the break undo the bleed nipple (8mm) and each all the bubbles come out of the drain tube. Once there are no more bubbles then that side is bled. Repeat on the other side and then do the same for the front calipers So now there’s a nice shiny set of calipers on the rear From there it was it’s 140,000 mile service and also I decided to change the anti-freeze as it’s never been done and I wondered if over time and mileage it would lose its efficiency. No pics for this sadly but it was dead easy, drop the under tray (10mm bolts) on the radiator is a bright yellow tap, turn that and drain the fluid (making sure you have a bucket underneath) Once it’s all drained refill the system, once there was enough guild in the system I fired the car up and put it into maintenance mode so the engine would warm up and I could reduce any chance of air locks. 1. With foot off the brake pedal, tap the power switch twice to put it into Ignition On mode. (If you see a green READY light come on, you've actually done it with your foot depressing the brake pedal) 2. Leave the shift lever in the P position, and then fully depress and release the accelerator pedal fully twice. 3. Move the shift lever to the N position (need to press the shift lock button to allow the lever to shift out of P), and then fully depress and release the accelerator pedal fully twice. 4. Move the shift lever back to the P position, and then fully depress and release the accelerator pedal fully twice. At this point the display will say something like " Maintenance Mode" 5. Then depress the brake pedal and press the power button to start the engine. It will also tell you TRC is off Do all of this inside 60 seconds. DO NOT ATTEMP TO DRIVE THE CAR IN THIS MODE. In order to get out of maintenance mode just switch the engine off and restart and it will be back to normal Once done it was out for a test run and then as it was a nice day I decide to clean the engine bay and give the car a wash, this summer it will need a machine polish as there are some pretty heavy marks on the car now sadly I have recently pulled the seats out and given them a good clean as well as the interior carpet, I’ll post up some pics on that later Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello and welcome. The first thing that struck me about your question was the vehicle that you are interested in, it strikes me as being a lot of money for a car that has done that much mileage. I have a 2014 SE that had 58,000 miles on the clock when I bought it and I only paid £13500 for it Will it be the right car for you? My personal belief is that on a fuel Economy level you will be no better or worse off than the focus, where you will gain in a small way is the difference in price between petrol and diesel Have you considered the CT 200 H? It’s a 1.8 rather 2.5 and make give you the edge on fuel economy as well as being a slightly cheaper vehicle to buy initially. That said, either of them will easily give you more than 10 years service without any major problems so long as they are serviced regularly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you tried unpairing the handset and then repairing it? I had a similar issue a while back with an IPhone and that worked Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What phone are you using? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I checked mine.....and mine are back There’s an 0800 number below this on the webpage, so I called it and they tell me there’s no outstanding recalls on my car and that I need to speak to my local dealer How strange Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How old is your Lexus? What sort of milage has it covered? I wonder if the dealer is just wanting to do an annual health check on your car Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A hybrid system recall or hybrid health check? I haven’t heard anything about Lexus doing a recall on the hybrid system, but that’s not to say there isn’t one out there just maybe not that well publicised Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 63 plate IS300H has suffered seized sliders recently. Sadly because of the mileage I have done (140,000 miles) Lexus would not be interested in mine. As an aside my rears are starting to stick so I have bought a set of used callipers from eBay that I am now overhauling to put on mine soon. Sadly Toyota have a terrible reputation for sticking callipers, especially the rears Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve had this on a another car that are used to own, was a real pain in the backside. The only way that we effectively remedied it was to take the headlights off the car strip out all the bulbs and with a hairdryer gently blow heat into the headlight unit until it dries out. We had a dry we then Benson time making sure that all of the seals were good and that there was little chance of any further condensation creeping into the headlights. The only other alternative is as you have said to buy replacement headlights and even secondhand they are quite dear Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve done it, not easy as you have to get the car up in the air and level. It’s easy if you have a pit or a 2/4 poster ramp but if your on axle stands then it can be a ball ache getting the car up and then level. The oil change itself is a doddle, there’s a drain and a fill bung. Always make sure the fill bung will undo before undoing the drain bung [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They will physically fit, I have no doubt that the wiring will need to be amended though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk