Jayw13702

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About Jayw13702

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    Member

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  • First Name
    Jason
  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    Prius
  • Year of Lexus
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Devon

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  1. My Is300h runs on 16's currently, I intend to keep them for many reasons, one of them is passenger comfort and another is cost, the car is used as a airport transfer car. Currently I have 15x7 ET40's and am looking at changing that to ET30's just to bring the wheel out a little and give a more fuller look arch I was looking at these, but they are only ET35 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-DOTZ-MUGELLO-BLACK-POLISHED-ALLOY-WHEELS-ONLY-NEW-5x114-3-RIMS/231998418449?epid=16003544818&hash=item36042eee11:g:ZdwAAOSwZ1BXdlgB by changing the offset do I run the risk of damaging the wheel bearings or am I overthinking this. Also will I notice much difference in handling etc? TIA
  2. Jayw13702

    My IS300h thread

    Mileage just over 72,000 now and climbing steadily the jobs are now starting to mount up a little as I order little trinkets to add to the car. Did a service recently (70,000) and at the time realised that the oil filter housing had pretty much welded itself on. it wouldn't move for love nor force. At the service before I had changed the filters and. followed the instructions on torquing the housing back up to 25nm +/- 5nm. however in 10,000 miles it had stuck solid, not even the proper tool could remove it, the housing actually broke one of the pegs on the tool as we were trying to get the housing off!! Now I have done many many services on Prius and Auris, with the exception of the bleed valve the housing is the same and the tool is as well, I have never had one go solid on me like this had. So after some deliberation, and a lot of swearing I decided there was only one way this sucker was coming off............... in pieces a combination of a Dremel a hammer and a small chisel made easy work of it, I was surprised how little resistance it gave. So with the alloy part of the housing all cleaned up I fitted a new oil filter and housing (£53 from Lexus) and made sure it wasn't done up quite so tightly 😉 Next jobs to to, illuminated door sills and alloy pedal covers, they've just arrive from the Far East so im just looking over them and making sure there's no little nasties in store when I come to fit them
  3. Jayw13702

    MPG on IS 300h etc.

    The on board computers always read optimistically, I've found that of all cars I have owned. When doing a real world comparison I calculate pump to pump, my run where I was averaging 64mpg turned into 59mpg when I looked at the fuel used and mileage covered, still not bad but still nearly 10% inaccuracy. If I am town/Aroad driving I can get late 40's into early 50's just around town I am early to mid 40's. Mines done nearly 75000 miles now. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Jayw13702

    MPG on IS 300h etc.

    No, 2014 IS300h. Nearly all motorway, average speed on the computer was 60mph but quite a lot of the time I had the cruse sent to 75mph. A/c on all the way Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Jayw13702

    MPG on IS 300h etc.

    I think I’ve just about peaked......... Exeter to Manchester, I seriously doubt I’m going to better that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Jayw13702

    Wind noise at speed

    Well I decided to have a closer look at this today as this week I have about a 1000 miles of motorway to do and now that I've noticed the noose I seem to be focuses on it now [emoji35] Stripped the wipers, scuttle and motor assemble out today, there are no grommets missing or holes in the bulkhead, so I moved onto the contact surface between the lower part of the glass and the windscreen aperture, because it's hidden I could only go by touch and it appears that there is little/no bonding agent between the body and the glass, whoever installed the glass put the bonding agent about an inch lower that it should be. So what you have is a bead of bonding agent that has made no contact with the body, and a gap that is possible to slide a piece of paper between, this would explain my wind noise and ability to hear the wiper motor whirring away. I had some black mastic in the garage so have run that along the join, not easy when it's not possible to see but I'm hoping that will cure the problem. I don't know which company replaced the glass as it was done prior to me picking the car up secondhand, however given. Y mileage I'm sure it won't be long before I'm needing a replacement glass. I've had to on my previous two cars so I expect this one to cop for it as well. I'm waiting for the mastic to dry properly before claiming a total success but I'm quietly optimistic Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. Jayw13702

    Wind noise at speed

    Mine has had a replacement screen, it is a non genuine screen. I don’t know when it was done as there’s no history of it in the info I got with the car, I’m tempted to remove the plastic scuttle and see if there’s anything obvious missing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Jayw13702

    New is300h owner .

    Yes it was as was the premium nav, that was a £2k option as well Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Has anyone else noticed the level of wind noise on a 300h at motorway speeds? Mine makes a real racket, if I take the internal recirc off on the climate control its slightly better but still there is a heck of a lot of noise from the lower centre part of the windscreen, I have even close the centre vents and that's not changed it at all. The other noise I have started to notice a lot is the wiper motor? Not as intrusive as the wind noise but for a premium car I'm really surprised I can hear the motor at all, I was never able to hear it in my Prius. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. I prefer this photoshop, a bit more in keeping with the whole IS300 https://goo.gl/images/Kp8FYU Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Is this a photoshop or a Lexus mock up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Jayw13702

    MPG on IS 300h etc.

    Just ran from Plymouth to London, 4 adults, a/c on all the way and cruise set to 75mph Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Jayw13702

    MPG on IS 300h etc.

    yes I daily see all the bars lit up, but usually at the bottom of a long hill. at the top of the hill I will flick the downshift paddle, I find this helps recharge and tops the battery up quicker, however I have wondered if this is nothing more than a placebo effect, im sure someone will correct me
  14. Jayw13702

    My IS300h thread

    Final job recently, one that I didn't have time for at the 60K service was the diff oil change. The hardest part here was getting the car high enough that I can get underneath and also level so I get the right amount of oil in the diff. You will need a 10mm Allen key for both the fill and drain plugs. 2 litres of diff oil and two metal o ring washers for the plugs I also have a hand pump to put the oil in the diff, its a lot easier than messing with bottles and filling spouts. I always undo the filling plug first, no point in draining the diff if I can't get the filler open. both the filler and the drain and on the right hand side of the diff (viewing from the back of the car) the one circled in black is the drain, in yellow is the filler don't forget to clean the magnetic trap at the end of the drain plug put the drain plug back in, fill the diff up until the oil is flowing out of the fill hole and then reinsert the fill plug. its not a hard job to do, just awkward because you are working upside down and dealing with slightly smelly oils. the next big job will be the transmission oil change or the EGR cooler......be back soon
  15. Jayw13702

    My IS300h thread

    the basic idea behind the front and rear pad change is exactly the same, as is the disc change, the only thing to remember on the rear discs is that you have handbrake shoes, ill come on to that later. i'll start with the pad change as its the more common of the two. Jack the car up and support with axle stands first job is to push back the piston and ensure the sliders move smoothly, I have a set of water pump pliers and a large flat bladed screwdriver. The caliper carrier is held onto the hub with 2x17mm bolts and then there are 2x14mm bolts that connect the caliper carrier to the main caliper body once you have undone the two 14mm bolts you only need to remove the top one, leave the bottom one loose and it will act as a pivot Prise the old pads out, clean up the stainless steel pad springs make sure they are clean to the point of being shiny again, I smear a small amount of copper grease on the flat surface, other people use more specific things like 'padgoo' On the end of each of the old pads is a little curved piece of metal that slides onto the end of the brake pad backing, remember to remove them from the old pads and swap them to the new ones, if you don't you will certainly get pad rattle. Slide the pad into the caliper and put a small amount on copper grease on the backs of the brake pads to stop brake squeal. If you have aftermarket pads you may find them very tight to fit, sometimes the shoulders that sit in the caliper carrier need a little filing down, do it a little at a time until they fit with a small mouth of resistance, don't overdo it. refit the caliper body and do up the 14mm bolts to the required torque, I also use thread lock, again thats a personal preference. Repeat for the other side. Rear pad changes are the same as the fronts except the pads are slight smaller. Disc changes. If you are doing discs then you are also changing pads at the same time, I remove the pads in the same way as doing a pad change, and also push back the caliper, but in order to remove the disc the caliper carrier needs to be removed, this is held on the hub with 2x17mm bolts. once the carrier is removed the disc will not just pop off, it needs to be remove using two 13mm bolts that are screwed into the holes on the disc face it will let go.....eventually and sometimes with a Big Bang!, just be aware of that. I used a couple of old manifold studs to remove mine Clean up the hub assembly where the disc sits, it will allow the new disc to sit squarely on the hub. The rear discs are the same principle except for the rubber grommet needs to be removed in order to gain access to the adjuster mechanism. pop the grommet out and then place the hole at about the 10 to position, shine a light in the hole and there will be the adjuster, in order to back the adjuster off you will need a flat ended screwdriver and you will need to spin the adjuster anticlockwise until the handbrake shoes back off enough to allow the disc to slide over them. readjusting the shoes is the reverse of this, its a bit of trial and error, I try to set them up so theres a bit of drag but not too much, it took me a few attempts to get the right. whilst I had all my brakes apart I decided to repaint them all, first job was cleaning them all, I use trolls breath to get rid of the worse of the brake dust etc leave it to soak in for 5-10 mins and then agitate it with a small brush, then wash off with warm water, it works very well. I stripped the caliper carriers off the car and painted them on the bench the caliper was don't on the car, I didn't want to get into the joys of having to rebleed the brakes, I also took the time to really clean the pad springs a couple were damage so had to be bent back into place. then reassembly, caliper carrier all fitted up and ready to go at the same time I had cleaned the inside of the wheels, getting rid of 60K miles worth of crud and brake dust, sadly I didn't get any pictures of that I am really pleased with how they came out, the callipers now stand out a little and don't look all rusty and crappy