Jayw13702

Ive been looking at them and in comparison to the IS the materials and the feel of quality isn’t quite Lexus. Plus it’s FWD and that may sound silly but the driving experience is different Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I hope so......and I hope it’s got good range as well. My is is due for replacement next year, would love another or maybe a GS300h Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

150,000 km is about 95,000 miles I believe. My IS300h has over 260,000kms/168,000 miles on the clock and is still running its original traction battery without any issues at all. My fuel consumption is about 45-50 mph on a long run and 40-45 mpg around town which is about a loss of 10% over its performance 100,000 miles ago Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They should be fundamentally the same, there may be small differences in ecu tuning for fuel quality, altitude and emissions standards but none of that would mean changes in internals Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To my knowledge leather could be on any car at any spec. However some came with it as standard and for some it was a cost option of about £1200. The seats and material would be the same irrespective. The SE was the base model, that came with half leather seats with non electric adjustment but could be specced with leather. Luxury has leather as an option You then had Premier and Advanced, I believe these had leather as standard And also the F sport, but those seats were different from standard seats. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Given that it has a conventional auto box rather than a cvt box I would have said that it could be played about with. Due to the small numbers that were sold in the uk I would have said You may have to do some digging to find a company who can remap your 200t Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 530d has 85k on the clock and has just needed a diff rebuild!!!! So much for German build quality Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t agree with what he has said, However he’s made his mind up and there’s nothing that will change it. If he were on here asking the same questions then my advice would be the same as many on PH, loose the 1k and walk away from it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve just seen the car you are looking at on autotrader. It has premium nav installed (mouse controller) and pretty much full dealer history, the only thing I could see by the pictures is the rear discs look a little ragged, but I bet they are original and a few quid would have that sorted Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The best advice I can give is get the best you can for your money. Saying that mine is sat at 165,000 miles and you would never know. I do about 40k a year and so will be at 200k before long, in the 2 1/2 year I have had mine I have had no major issues. Mine is serviced every 12,000 miles and most of the time there are no added extras. SE spec has the 16” wheels which I think give a more comfortable ride and also cheaper tyres £50-£70 per corner for quality tyres, the other bonus is zero road tax. The only things I have done outside of servicing is gearbox oil changes every 60k, normally when I do the diff oil as well, I clean out the egr cooler every 50k and replace the antifreeze at 100k. On a run I can still get 55mpg (real world) and around town it’s early 40’s. The car is supremely comfortable, quiet and most of my passengers love travelling in it 8k is a bargain, look for service history, make sure the car is physically straight and looked after. Little things like matching quality tyres will always be a good indicator. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Speed camera warnings [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s the water pump drive belt. It’s a special belt In so far as it’s Lexus only, you can’t seem to find them aftermarket and it’s narrower that a “normal” serpentine belt Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With great difficulty, I was lying on the engine with my arms wrapped around the pipe work so as I could get a 12mm deep reach socket on a long extension bar on it. Once I had broken the joint t was then a spanner and literally undo it a flat at at time Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s the rears more than the fronts, however to check all I have ever done is whipped the wheel off, slackened the 2 13mm bolts that hold the caliper to the main body. And removed the bottom one, this allows you to swing the caliper up and then gently move it away and towards you so as to check the pins are moving freely. It’s easier to show you rather than describe it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What mileage does you car have? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk