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Just had a good look at it seems the best route is the lower trim which does continue to the back seats.. Comes with 6.5 meters of cable so should work. Arrives tomorrow 👍 Although I love the parking mode function, I can see how it won't work currently with just a front camera installed, if someone drives past and scrapes the body work, the front camera will get nothing.

Ah, I'm looking at the dedicated rear cam, that option wouldn't work for me due to the camera position which is obscured by the reat view mirror. Just trying to work out a route through the trim.. there's no trim which carries the full car distance so I think I'll have a go with some odd wire I have spare to see how it goes.

How did you wire to the rear window? Had a look and those internal panels look very tight although should open up enough to get the wires inside.

Thanks for all the assistance, I did get it installed yesterday and have a tip for anyone who is really tall... Don’t attempt the passenger side fuse box, its a real pain, if you go through the drivers side fuse box, you are able to remove the trim just above that section to give yourself better access, makes the job so much easier. Happy to say the Nextbase hardwire kit works perfectly and overall I’m very impressed. One thing I love about the 552GW is the fact that you can view recordings straight from your phone without disconnecting the camera and download them straight to your device. I’m toying with the idea of adding the rear camera, it connects straight to the dash cam so no more advanced wiring needed.

I had a look today although didn't do it, I was concerned with how tight the fuses are connected to the box! Were your fuses hard to remove? I'm worried that if I try any harder, I'm going to break one! Wonder what idiot decided the fuse boxes were best placed in those positions!

Which fuse did you use, it seems our boxes are different as the 10amp I have in the position you mentioned is for ECU. What ignition only one did you tap into?

Didn't it worry you connecting up to something major like the ECU?

Or am I looking at it upside down here? Meaning you are using the 10amp ECU-IG?

Thanks again for the info, had a look and it is doable! I wonder if our fuse layout is different? In the position you mention, I have a 7.5 panel fuse?

Hey Vlad... How on earth did you manage to access that passenger side fuse box? I'm 6'6 tall and couldn't find a way to do any work in that small section! Any tricks??

That doesn't look like the official set he has, as you say, could be a poorly manufactured copy.

Hi Vlad I have got the genuine Nextbase hard wire kit coming tomorrow.... I had no idea that there was a passenger side fuse box, great information, I'll have a look later.

Cig lighter would be ideal although the previous owner broke a fuse in the slot leaving only the pins connected, impossiible to remove and I'm not paying an auto electrician £85 for the first hour to remedy. Might have to source a voltmeter to see what the empty slots are doing.

Is there a regulator you would recommend?

Just curious with regard to the empty slots in the fuse box, I guess they are all usable? Want to hardwire my Nextbase 522GW, does anyone happen to know a position that is sufficient for this, need a position which turns on and off witht he car ignition. Thanks

Yep, just the odd occasion (once a week maybe) where I connect the phone and the unit says it's connected although nothing is displayed.. a simple unplug and try again always fixes it so it's not a deal breaker

I use the VLine 2 system in my car (ML with sat nav). It means I can use wireless Apple Car Play (works perfectly) and Android wired Car Play (works 90% of the time with the odd connection issue) Expensive option... Sure, although it works perfectly and adds many other functions to the standard (rubbish) factory system.

Your opinion is right on the money, it's low end related entirely! Got it on the motorway last night and in my opinion at the top end it had more power than with the original exhaust, it just kept going! Low end however is a shambles, thought the acceleration was beautiful on the stock exhaust, smooth and quiet and the cruisong performance was great, quiet and refined, very enjoyable. Now I have a droning mess! As I said to my wife last night, if it had of performed like that on the test drive, I'd of walked! I'm going to visit them first thing in the morning and try and catch the manager and see if he's interested in helping with this issue, guy on the reception when I booked told me it would both sound and perform perfectly, it currently does neither!!

Hoping for some advice here really as I've found myself in a pretty bad situation. I've had exhaust issues for a couple of years with one silencer, basically it fell off twice so I had to get it welded back on, each repair later about a year. Got to a stage a month back where it fell off for a 3rd time so I decided to take it into an exhaust specialist to have the system looked at. They examined the system and told me I needed a new Y pipe with 2 boxes along with 2 front link pipes, he showed me the corrosion to the pipes and to be fair it did look rough. He quoted me £660 all in all I booked it in. I did stress that I wanted everything as close to stock as possible and he reassured me that things would be good. Picked it up after the work was done and drove home and I found it awful. I've lost power and it makes the most awful droning noise, it makes me hate driving the car! I contacted the firm with my observations although was told that by replacing exhaust sections, it would give a different experience and naturally adding stainless steel components world be noisier! I'm at a loss here, just don't know what to do as I've ended up with something I wouldn't have bought after a test drive. Are there any solutions available for aftermarket systems that can improve things? Poxy Covid has messed up my finances so don't have much to play with... Would appreciate any opinions.

Nothing at all... I just took it for a drive to get it up to temperature, when I parked up I watched for 5 minutes and it doesn't seem to be happening any more. I'm going to check it every 30 mins or so... Very curious as to what could have caused this!

Got a strange issue, wonder if someone has encountered this? When I park the car and lock it, after about a minute both the puddle lights and the cab lights turn on for 5-10 seconds, this happens countinously, on and off for as long as you leave it. I've checked all the doors and they are closed, the dash display clearly shows when any door is left open. Only thing I can think of is water, I did hit a huge puddle earlier throwing water everywhere although it seemed fine right after and only seems to have started this evening. I would of thought that any problems with water would be instant. I'm really confused here and would appreciate any help Thanks.

Thanks guys... £18.19 all in is pretty ridiculous for what it is although the car looks scruffy without.

Returned to my car yesterday to find that someone has pinched my cap which covers the lock on my drivers side door. Ebay only has them from the states for around $50!!!! Anyone know a MUCH cheaper way of replacing this small piece of plastic? Thanks

Hi Vlad I just did the same, disconnected for a few minutes and the Check VSC has also disapeared. I have a journey this evening so I'll see if the error remains clear or comes back. Mine first appeared on the motorway this morning, prior to that, I'd just filled the tank with petrol so not sure what could have caused it! Thanks for the tip though, lets hope things are good now 🙂

These are my fuel trim readings, not sure what I'm looking at though tbh, anything obvious stand out here? https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/wrGqa5NF4DRn