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kayble last won the day on March 16

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About kayble

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  1. Still looking smart: I think I want to space wheels on front and back by 10mm - otherwise the car is pretty much exactly how I want it!
  2. If anyone is interested, here's what the rear of a GS300 looks like without the bumper on: I wanted to see what condition the rear bumper bar was in. Pleased to see that only minor surface rust was starting - so it's all been buzzed off, kurusted then primed. I've also run some Dynax in the cavity areas; probably overkill, but felt good to do it! Next job is to pull the front bumper off, to gain access to the end of the chasis legs to scrub any rust there, and then do the aircon condenser at the same time - that's easter weekend sorted!
  3. David, Hello from me, I'm a 2001 GS300 owner also in Merseyside (South Liverpool to be a little more precise). Not sure what you mean - you purchased new caliper carriers because one the carrier bolt to the front knuckle snapped?
  4. Can't belive that went for less than £1,200!! If that was as clean underneath as the rest of the bodywork suggests, someone got a bargain.
  5. My 18 year old GS300 with no hybrid is ULEZ compliant. 2JZ or 4 pot w/ hybrid... hmmm let me think. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
  6. Have you dropped the sill covers? Would suggest doing so asap, so you can determine condition of the sills. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
  7. This GS430 looks like it could be a bargain: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-GS430-SE-Auto-car/202646087794?hash=item2f2ea5e872:g:AgkAAOSwx2Bcp0m9 3 keys and bodywork looks clean. If I was close, I'd go and have a look to see what underneath looks like. To be honest that green cat D car in London is also tempting!
  8. How can you tell an uprated brake booster from a vulnerable ome; is there a part number for the updated one? He says with fingers crossed.... Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
  9. If I knew it was compatible and in working order, I'd have it and keep it on the shelf. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
  10. I'm guessing that your brakes work in so far as you have the requisite braking force on the road wheels/parking brake - so I doubt noise from the brake booster would have given a MOT tester cause for concern if so? Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
  11. Quick update on recent developlemts on this car. Main work has been to continue the replacement of the cabin speakers. I've used JL audio 6.5" components to the front, and also to the rear as co-axials. I've used speaker adapter plates shipped in from the states - these make the job of replacing the factory pods sooooo much easier; here's the eBay shop in question: https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/pvcspeakeradapters79https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/pvcspeakeradapters79 Shipping took about 10 days as I recall - no customs fees either. First step is to prepare the doors. I was surprised with the condition of all the doors rust wise. I found a small seam of rust in the NSF door that was kurusted/primed and a small scab on one of the side impact bars in the rear of the car - also sorted. Other than that, the bottoms of the doors are spotless. Kurusting the seam in the NSF door (not the best pic given the access): primed: Interestingly, I did wire wheel a scab off the other side of this door in exactly the same location. I would recommend people take the time to remove their plastic door covers to check for any bubbling underneath. Once that's done, it's time for Dynamat and a liberal spray of dynax to keep any future rust from forming (remember my pathological fear of the stuff): The dynamat is necessary to keep the doors from rattling as the speakers are installed with an open back firing in to the door aperture. The less ratte/movement, the more we'll hear of the music. In the front doors, it was possible to use the factory tweeter mounting brackets for the new JL audio equipment: It's then simply a case of installing the main woofer in to the adapter and bolting that to the door using the factory mounts: I've cut the connectors from the vehicle loom and soldered the wiring directly to the wiring for the JL audio speakers. I use butt connectors that contain a solder and heat shrink component - these things are great for making solid connections with ease - on Amazon: amazon link. I go over the top with a length of heat shrink insulation and cable tie everything in place. The new speakers sound weedy with the door card off - but with everything buttoned back up and the door cavity sealed up - they sound great, considering I'm only using the headunit internal amp. Once the cabin is finished, I shall put some subs in the boot - more on those later!
  12. well in a year and a bit, you could put the Cat D car on classic cover, at which point it being a cat D would likely become irrelevant so long as its +20 years old.
  13. There's a GS430 on a cat D in London: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-GS-430-4-3-auto-SE/323670160684?hash=item4b5c3eb52c:g:ZnIAAOSwveFcTzM~ to be honest, at this end of the price range, the Cat D wouldn't worry me - if the car was well repaired and the incident wasn't serious. The MOT has run out on this one and I'd want to see it in person - but I bet this could be had for a grand. You'd need to put money aside for a new exhaust and some suspension bits - but that's likely the case for any GS now - at this price range I'd sell you my GS300 but I'm having too much fun with it at the moment!