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Herbie last won the day on September 24

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About Herbie

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    RX450h Advance
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  1. In all honesty my friend, I'm surprised that you say I've asked it before - I truly have no recollection of that All this Covid stuff is really messing with my head.
  2. On Monday I'll be taking my car for the final service of a two-year service plan that will have covered three services. I know that having the car serviced at a Lexus Main Dealership is a condition of being able to have an Extended Warranty, so because I want the warranty I also intend to get another two-year service plan. My question is, when is the best time to apply for these things? The car will be having its 7-year/70k service next week, even though it's only done 50k, at which point my current service plan will expire. The next service won't be due until October 2021, so do I wait until then to buy a new service plan or do I sort it out next week while I'm there? Is there an optimum time or does it not matter? Similarly, my current extended warranty only expires on 31st January 2021 so again, do I wait until, say, mid-January to set up renewal or is it possible to do it next week while I'm there but only have it become active on 1st February?
  3. Sorcerer used two relays but it's possible and even easier to use just one - here's a rough sketch of what you need: An ignition switched feed is taken to Pin 30 (common). Pin 87A is the 'normally closed' contact, which means that under normal conditions, when the ignition is switched on, power will flow from Pin 30 to Pin 87A and out to illuminate the DRLs. Because the DRLs must switch off when you switch the side/tail lights on, you need to tee into the positive feed to one of the sidelight bulbs and connect it to Pin 85. Pins 85 and 86 are the relay coil, so when Pin 85 goes positive as you switch on the sidelights, the coil energises and pulls the relay contact away from Pin 87A to Pin 87, therefore breaking the conductive path to the DRLs and switching them off. I can't remember which ignition switched fuse I used but you may be able to tell from the photo below - I think it was the one on the bottom row, which I think is IGCT No.5 on the drawing. Check it with a multimeter first.
  4. Just be aware that as you travel around you may have to retune the frequency because FM stations only have a range of about 20 miles, so what may be an empty slot now may not be further up the road.
  5. I honestly don't know as I've never needed to do it but I don't think you'll need to do that either. Just clean up the contacts in the bulb holder, clean and reseat the earths and if that hasn't cured the problem then it's multimeter out and fault-tracing time.
  6. That's 100 flashes per second! Have you checked the earths? Don't just pull at the wire and think it's tight enough, undo the nut and clean up all the connectors and earth points. It's dropping a lot of voltage somewhere so it's just a matter of finding where by tracing the wiring and cleaning all connectors.
  7. Aha! Now I understand it better, having seen that last diagram, so thanks @ColinBarber
  8. You may be able to find a combined DRL and fog light unit for the 400h that are direct replacements for the original fog lights. However, if not, this is the best alternative - switchback LEDs that double as DRL and turn indicator. Sorcerer uses two relays in this one but there is a way of doing it with just one relay, so let me know if you want it and I'll draw out a simple circuit diagram for you. And like he says, don't worry about how it initially looks because I know he made a nice neat job of it later.
  9. Yeah it will do because as you know, the RX300 only has mechanical brakes. It doesn't take long to get used to the regen brakes though. Just anticipate the road ahead and brake gently whenever you can, so as to get the most from the system.
  10. Yes and no I suppose I know it started off as being the 400h but I would think the points being discussed could be applied across the range of hybrids, but maybe not?
  11. Guilty as charged, by omission, although I have mentioned in a few previous postings that if you have to slam on the anchors in an emergency then the system goes directly to mechanical braking; I just forgot to include it here. Are you saying that the mechanical brakes come on whenever the power meter indicates maximum charge? I don't know how many Amps are being squirted into the traction battery when the power meter indicates maximum charge, but I assumed that some current-limiting circuitry comes into play to limit the rate of charge so that the battery isn't damaged. In other words, the battery still has the capacity to accept more charge, so regen braking still continues with the electrical output of MG1 being limited, until the car slows down enough for the mechanical brakes to take over.
  12. P/Outlet No.1 is a 15A and will only be energised when the ignition is on - it's for the cig lighter/power outlet. Why not buy yourself a cheap little multimeter to check and make sure though? They're great little gadgets and come in handy for lots of things and once you've got it, it's there for future use too. Really inexpensive ones can be bought for under a tenner and then range upwards into hundreds of pounds.