Herbie

Looking out of the window I just can't believe the silly sods queueing up for petrol

Hmm.... It may have saved a bit of time if the topic title had the correct error code number - you wrote P2792 but your photo shows P2797 Anyway, a quick Googling of P2797 comes up with a few things, the first one below from an American forum and the second one from this very forum here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hybrid-technology/853851-p2797-with-subcode-865-on-2008-gs-450h.html

Great, let's see a couple of photos when you've got it. Enjoy

You may get more answers if you start your own topic instead of tagging onto the end of a 6 year old one I can't answer the question but just keep your eyes open on eBay breakers or any breakers near you.

I'd just replace the cat with something like this if it got stolen.

There are a few people noticing the 'catloc rattle'. One guy on here even took the car back the next day to get them to remove it because the noise was that bad. My personal opinion is that it's not worth having a Catloc fitted because it'll only slow them down a bit, it won't stop them altogether. The time taken for their car to arrive on scene, remove cat and drive away again is about 90 seconds to 2 minutes tops. A catloc will slow them down a bit but certainly not long enough for the police to arrive and I wouldn't advise tackling them yourself because the 'lookout guy' always has a machete or some other nasty weapon.

Unless you do an analysis of the chemical composition of genuine vs substitute, you'll never be 100% certain that the substitute will be 100% safe and compatible with the seals/hoses/gaskets etc. Even one chemical different, or maybe even a percentage difference in the amount or concentration of a single chemical could be enough to cause problems. Is it really worth the risk to save a few quid?

Chris, your profile shows you as having a GS450h and if that's correct, you should always keep it in drive unless you think it'll be a while before you get moving again, in which case you should put it in park. The reason for this is that the hybrid system will not recharge the batteries in neutral.

Let me just reiterate that And in case you're still unsure, I'll say that I think you're overthinking it too I've driven nothing but automatics for more than 30, maybe even 35 years (never wanted an auto - until the first time I drove one that is ) and I've never had any auto box (or parts thereof) fail on me or wear out, nor any brake part, transmission cooler or any associated part, despite taking some of them to 100k miles and beyond. Having learned to drive and passed my test in a manual, I was always used to the 'handbrake on and move to Neutral' process and I probably did that more often than not, but I also did my fair share of leaving it in Drive and just standing on the brakes. In other words, I truly don't think it matters. Just do what you do and enjoy driving the car.

Fingers crossed that he used ND11 oil David and not the 'normal' PAG oil. The aircon compressor is driven by a 500V 3-phase AC motor and the motor windings are immersed in the oil for cooling purposes. ND11 oil doesn't conduct electricity and so is safe, but PAG oil does conduct and will damage the motor windings and eventually lead to insulation breakdown. Thankfully, safety systems are in place that will shut down the hybrid system if this occurs, otherwise there would be a danger of that high voltage tracking to earth, ie, the car body, leading to possible electrocution.

But do they? There is nothing 'Lexus-specific' about the aircon system so being a Lexus/Toyota specialist means nothing in this context. Personally, I go to mechanics for mechanical problems; auto-electricians for electrical issues (unless we're talking about the hybrid system) and aircon specialists for aircon issues.

Exactly as Peter said above. It sounds very much like they've just regassed it but without properly testing it first, which is very poor in my opinion. The refrigerant gas does not wear out or get converted to something else - the only possible reason for a lack of gas is a leak somewhere.

Well, you've not given us much information to go on, so try using the car more.

Just get the eBay one from Lithuania, it won't matter that the extra switches aren't connected to anything.

That's true, and it sounds so trivial doesn't it? In reality, it's been shown that as little as 1% contamination with the wrong oil can cause damage running into thousands of pounds. I think this is the reason why some places specifically refuse to do hybrids. Ideally they should have two machines, one specifically for hybrids and the other one for non-hybrids, in order to prevent cross-contamination but I suspect that the cost of said machines is high and small places just can't afford two.

I'm disappointed now. I was going to pick up a couple of tyres when I go for my fish for tonight's tea at Marks and Spencers

As Piers says, as long as they're not too hot then it's fine. If they're illuminated then the bulbs will throw out some heat, plus it's a confined space behind there and the electronics will also generate heat.

Don't even be tempted to try it. I never let mine get to less than 1/4 full. If you do run out of petrol then you'll need at least 10 litres (preferably 15) in the tank before trying to start the car. If you have more than 3 failed attempts to restart it, the hybrid system could lock out and you'll need the dealer to reset it.

If you're looking to fit DRLs all you need is a multimeter or even just a 12V bulb so that you can see which fuses have power on only when the ignition is on. To make sure the DRLs go off when you switch the side/tail or headlights on, just tee into the +ve feed to the side lights. In the drawing above, when the ignition is switched on, power goes from 30 to 87A and switches the DRLs on. When the side lights are switched on, power goes to pin 85 which energises the relay coil and breaks the connection between 30 and 87A, thereby switching the DRLs off.

I've never had a CT or a UX so I can only speak from the perspective of an RX, but I think you've misunderstood the way these cars work. The traction battery in the RX is, if I remember correctly, 288V but the requirements of the car are varied. For instance: MG1 and MG2 are 650V 3-phase AC motors (the battery is DC) The aircon compressor is driven by a 500V 3-phase AC variable frequency motor The power steering is driven by a 48V motor The 12V system (lights, radio etc) and the 12V battery are powered/charged by a 14.5V system (the hybrid equivalent of an alternator). All these things are driven by the 288V DC traction battery in conjunction with various DC converter/inverter units and other boxes of electronic wizardry. These cars are amazing feats of engineering and incredibly complex, but one thing they are not, is electric cars. As you already know, if you were to drive on battery alone then you'd only manage a couple of miles at most, maybe not even that.

Yes, it could very well just be a loose/dirty connection or broken wire. For instance, if you look at P0A78-284 in the workshop manual, there's a column that gives the possible trouble area in order of likelihood, the highest possibility being first in the list: If you then go to the end column and click where it says 'Click Here' you get a whole raft of possible causes with Good/No Good flowcharts and other stuff This is why you really need these subcodes in order to make any meaningful diagnosis.

Enjoy!

Hi Leo and welcome to the club. Try not to worry too much and just enjoy the car. The hybrid system is amazingly reliable and as for the high voltage hybrid battery itself, you can have the Hybrid Health Check done each year and as long as it passes, you'll get a further 12-months warranty on it until it's 15 years old. Feel free to post photos of your new steed as we all like to see photos

Given that the Carlinkit needs to use those things itself, I reckon you're using a wrong cable somewhere or not got the CAN connectors (green and white wires on my RX) sorted properly.

Yes, but I really don't understand why anyone would want to. Again, I have to agree with Peter on this. These cars are fitted with Climate Control, which is so much better than just standard A/C