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BachelorDays last won the day on December 22 2018

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About BachelorDays

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  • Lexus Model
    RX 350 SE-L (80k miles)
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater London

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  1. Brilliant! I saw the post about Orchard Engineering and discussed this process with a garage about a week ago. I thought this would be possible and therefore not have to go to the place with the car. You've just confirmed it.
  2. Near Side Rear (this one doesn't maintain tyre pressure over time). Off Side Rear (retains tyre pressure fine but I think the dry rot - cracks - are getting serious now) Now, what's this Michelin (dated 1214) doing beginning to crack up at 5 years?! 6mm tread left on this too!
  3. Got back to the UK early June after a few months away and of many things pending, one was to revive the parked RX350 and get it in for an MOT. I bought the car last year with a new MOT so was a bit apprehensive about it. Good news is that I got a pass but it wasn't all plain sailing. 1. I was expecting an advisory on the rear tyres. In fact, I left them on just to see how they would fare. I always have problems with the tyres getting dry and cracking up before the tread is run down since I don't drive much, so this was like a benchmark test. Would I get an advisory or a fail? I got advisories. My own take on these - one is definitely dead since it doesn't maintain its pressure. The other looks equally bad but doesn't loose pressure. They are both dated 3612 (36th week of year 2012) so 7 years old. They are made by Sonar. 6mm tread on both but I don't think they should be put through the paces any further. (I'll try posting pictures later). 2. My drive is on an incline. When I park facing up, the car rolls back on the parking brake (in neutral). When I park facing down, it locks in like concrete. I was so sure this would need adjustment I had that on the agenda as a fix before the MOT, but had an interesting discussion with the manager of the garage I found online as a Toyota Specialist. He said it probably wouldn't be a fail since the test does an average of the front and rear (directional?) holds. So I took his advice and.. not even an advisory! (No, it wasn't him doing the MOT). I asked the MOT tester about it afterwards and he said he had noticed it was a bit slack but not enough for an advisory. 3. The not so good news is an advisory on a minor oil leak. I haven't noticed any drops on the drive but I have had my doubts about the colour of some of the water stains after rains (unfortunately my drive has some old stains so it's not as if I can notice a light smear). Another discussion with the garage guys - they were of the view that it's not serious and I shouldn't worry about it. Well! Now I know it's there I will need to know it's origin. So that was that. Except that I was informed that the CEL was now on in my car. Hmmm. A restart didn't help. The engine was also running very rough (a cylinder or bank off). They read the codes and suggested something wrong with one of the coils. I was pretty sure it was because of all that lifting that goes on during the MOT test. Drove home and disconnected the battery for about 90 minutes. All well after restart. So much for this particular Toyota Specialist! So now I want someone to check the oil leak and adjust/clean the park brake. (Any recommendations of a garage? I'm in Wandsworth SW London). For tyres I'm thinking a full set of Avon ZX7s.
  4. If the mechanic can't see it, they can't diagnose it. We've all been here. I can understand your frustration. The way you've described it I'm thinking it's quite likely a transmission issue. Have you tried driving in different gears? Just put it in 2 (or it's equivalent in your car) and then drive around. See if you can replicate it. Down another avenue, does the car also lose any power when this happens?
  5. Changing a bulb that doesn't exist will definitely be a challenge 😁 Glad you saw it in time. I'd've had the entire beam assembly out before realising it was a reflection.
  6. There r the basics.. engine should be hot (good half an hour run at least) and still running (transmission in Park) when u take the reading. Normally takes two or three readings to confirm the fluid level. Brown fluid (chocolate milk brown) or darker is not good. If it smells burnt that's even worse. A smooth texture with some red colour still showing is fine.
  7. Rule out any transmission issues for a start. Fluid level and condition. Any slipping in the transmission?
  8. Can they not reproduce these symptoms when testing it? If they can but still maintain its normal then they should show it to you in a similar car.
  9. The hunting may well be because of wrong signals from a part of the throttle system. I'd check around the throttle body/associated sensors for loose/broken connections. Probably check the earth points too.
  10. On an MB you wouldn't think twice and change the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). But you don't see it mentioned as an issue with the RX. You could check the connector on it. I don't know it's exact location in the RX and I'm not near my car these days. Flooring the throttle doesn't do anything since the starting mixture is controlled directly by the ECU.
  11. It's the other side of the light so access through the wheel arch is probably not relevant. I'd post again in the RX forum. You might get a better response. I'm not near my car these days otherwise I'd take a look. I had to do the rear light bulb and it's not the most intuitive of procedures.
  12. So is the vibration only felt when applying the brakes and is it more if braking hard? Were the old discs and pads in a poor condition? I'd get the wheel balancing done since that needs doing anyway.
  13. I don't think you've got a real issue with the gearbox. If the fluid level is good you should be fine until the next service and discuss the fluid change at that time. Any decent garage doing your car service will handle transmission fluid too. You keep mentioning the stealers. Are you still using them for servicing? If so, time to find a good garage (Toyota Independent or another).
  14. Just to double check on the basics - you'll get the correct oil level when the engine is running, car is hot (at least half an hour of running) and you take a few readings (three or so). Brown and smelling burnt or looking lumpy is the really bad sign. Smelling oily and looking like a smooth fluid is good, specially if the oil level is also at the right level. If the car has had a fluid change in the last 50k miles then another fluid change will probably do good. If it's been longer than that just be careful the change doesn't cause more harm than good. Wouldn't do a flush in this case anyway. Finally, do take a look at the MAF as well. It could be the original and at 180k may well be causing issues.
  15. Doesn't look too bad to me, but it does look like there is a slight venting going on at heat/speed. It is 18 years old and probably done a fair amount of miles. It's a tough one to call. Depends so much on how you use the car and so on. No harm discussing it with a garage and then assessing the cost and benefit.