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BachelorDays last won the day on December 22 2018

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About BachelorDays

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  • Lexus Model
    RX 350 SE-L (80k miles)
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater London

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  1. Transmission not shifting down if the speed is above a certain limit, as well as an auto shift up if you hit those limits in a lower gear is part of the safety features for the protection of the transmission in most modern transmissions (I don't know about yours specifically). Your description that it isn't shifting UP when prompted is definitely not normal. There's an outside chance of a reset working (battery disconnected for half an hour or so), in case a forced shift up has caused it to get stuck. How are the shifts/kick downs when driving in D?
  2. The video will help. You could also try starting the car standing outside with the bonnet open, just to hone in on it. If the noise comes as you turn the key, or just as it catches, it could be the starter. If it's just after the engine has fired up it could be a pulley.
  3. Leaks and refills of the power steering oil can lead to air in the system. If you haven't already catered for this, look up burping the power steering system on net. If the steering remains noisy and hard even after you're sure there's no air in there and fluid level is fine then the most likely scenario is that the pump is gone.
  4. If you weren't getting these two codes before replacing the sensors then it's likely to be linked to the new work you've done. Checking connectors etc, as suggested, will help. If you replaced the sensors with the battery still connected there's a possibility you shorted something. Disconnecting the battery for an hour or so ought to reset the ECU. The engine running fine with the kit attached may well be because the kit is stopping the emissions system from functioning properly. In this case you really want to test the engine with the O2 sensors disconnected. That'll throw other codes but won't give u limp mode.
  5. I think this comparison is flawed because it's comparing vehicles from different categories/classes. You really can't compare a RAV4 with the RX - the RX is a category above in terms of pretty much everything. Same for the Honda and the Audi. Try the RX with an MB ML, BMW X5, Audi Q5, Volvo XC70 or 60, etc. Probably yield different results.
  6. Do check the fuel filler cap. If removing and then reinstalling it - fully tightened - fixes it then this is a known solution. Just clean the cap and the filler rim without dropping any dirt inside the filler and see if that helps.
  7. The basic fan is pretty quiet, so you won't be able to tell even when it is running. There's an additional effort made for cooling the condenser, or when stuck in traffic during hot days. That fan is like an airplane revving up and you won't miss that. I say extra effort since I'm not sure whether it's the same fan (with a magnetic control for speed) or separate units. But this extra fan is seldom on. It was a good few days after getting my RX that it first came on. Gave me a scare. But then would come on more regularly because the weather had turned quite hot (yep, that period last year). In all this the temp gauge never moved from it's favourite position midway on the scale so I never gave it any concern.
  8. The older Chrysler 300 was using the w210 chassis, a Mercedes engine and the 722.6 w210 transmission with the same issues. Add electrical gremlins from Chrysler. In my opinion these components won't age well, so if you're already starting at 10 years it will be a gamble. The LS fares much better in age as well as mileage so a safer bet. More executive feeling than the Chrysler. 400k kms/year - maths gone wrong somewhere? Otherwise I'd think Lexus even more.
  9. Not sure about the hybrids but with the others a clunk like the one you mention can be associated with the shift lever bushing. Interesting that the fan noise is also coming from around the shift lever position. If a seal or bushing has been disturbed, it could explain the clunk and also the fan noise which you can now hear because the sound proofing has been affected. With a conventional car I'd be looking underneath. But with the hybrids I don't know if this is relevant, so do be judicious in using this explanation.
  10. Should be fun. But be careful. There are bikes out there with larger engines than a Corsa's. Do give us an update if possible.
  11. It's a straight 6 2L block so neat and tidy. You'll need a lift to raise the car when you lower the engine. So certainly doable. Look inside your engine bay and get a feel for the work space you have. Then look from underneath with all the plastic shields removed to see the drop channel. Have you ever dropped an engine block before?
  12. Not quite sure what you're asking. If you want to lower the engine and transmission for removal, you need to put it up on a ramp initially and make the assessment from underneath. Will removal of the sub frame and other suspension/drive components give you enough space for the lowering? The spare engine confuses me more. If you plan doing this more than once, surely you'd get set up for removal from the top.
  13. I'd definitely discuss with the people who've done the refurbishing. But I'd also check the age of the tyres and if they are standard spec for the rims. If tyres are suspected, best thing would be to buy a used tyre for one rim and see if that makes a difference.