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About Lwerewolf

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  1. The 4th gen GS does have an EV switch. The EV vs engine power switch is mostly related to power demands. Above a certain speed (about 40-45mph or so), the engine will be spinning regardless (in fuel-cut mode or otherwise), so at that point just about any throttle will use fuel... I think. I did an experiment (didn't have hybridassistant at the time) - using veeery light throttle, the dash would show the car using EV power only at 60mph downhill, but the fuel consumption gauge would show fuel consumption. Also, after every startup, once the engine has fully warmed up (~80deg. coolant temperature achieved), the engine will run until the car sits still (or glides on EV at pretty much walking speed, assuming it's not force-charging the battery at the same time) for a few seconds (5-10-20...) - it is calibrating its MAF probe to account for contamination/etc. Stage3+ in Prius jargon. You can test this by shutting down the car after the engine has warmed up, starting it up again and blipping the throttle in park (or turning the engine on in any other way). The engine will keep running for a few seconds. Once it then stops, any further stops should be almost instantaneous - blip the throttle in park again and it will run for a second or two tops. Other cases of the engine running - initial warmup (40deg. coolant temp), heat required for cabin heating, battery level too low, transmission in "sport"(manual gear ratio select, engine won't start automatically, but will not stop while in S-mode), maintenance mode, HV failsafe mode (even a pending code will trigger it). In case of failsafe, you WILL know - the car will be a snail in terms of throttle response
  2. Only the IS-F (2010+) has an LSD in this platform. All other 2IS and 3GS models use an open diff, despite some brochures claiming otherwise. Torsen in a 450h has been done, but... it's a bit of a rabbit hole. Aftermarket torsens/clutch packs are available, of course - drexler (likely OEM torsens for toyota), sard, cusco, os giken, ats, so on.
  3. Some can, but there are usually already oils that have them... and as you said - on time OCIs, plenty of "exotic" MoS2/WS2/somethingsomething oils around if that's your thing. About the lifetime fill - my point was that many high mileage cars do run it, and that the company doesn't appear to be worried about metallic particles accumulation having a significant effect on the EV components, and again I haven't read about a confirmed transaxle failure on anything other a gen2 prius (plenty of sudden inverter failures on just about everything though), not counting things like the bearings on the auxiliary oil pump-equipped models. Not saying that I'm not touching the oil 😄
  4. I've gone through all the threads (that I could find) over there on the topic of ATF-WS (and a few on other sides - the participants were quite easy to spot), and I've also read a lot of other threads to which you've contributed. The acidity buildup of the fluid was the main point that stuck, if I recall correctly. With regards to the "dieseling" - isn't that partially solved by the system being "closed" - i.e. cut off from breathing in additional oxygen? In addition, ATF acidity control is a concern for just about every modern automatic transmission, for a multitude of reasons. Again, not implying that I'm advocating the use of additives in general, and especially in this transmission, but the "If the oil is in any way conductive to electricity" part looks a bit off to me - Toyota/Lexus states a "lifetime fill", which would surely make it conductive, especially after the initial break-in period 🙂
  5. Ehh… The "nonconductive ATF" has been discussed over at Priuschat. I agree that engine oil additives shouldn't be poured into a transmission/diff/anything else, and that you shouldn't really be using them in the first place (very few good ones, and then they'll have to work well with the oil in the car... read up and decide) but the oil itself will become conductive over time - it is lubricating interfacing metal parts, after all. Haven't read of any such failures on Toyota hybrids, with the exception of the mk2 prius transaxle, but that doesn't appear to be tied to the oil used.
  6. Look underneath the car, remove the cover that's usually removed for oil changes. It has a finned radiator on it, two water hoses and an electrical connector. Fairly obvious to spot. Let's hope it's just blocked and not shorted...
  7. They don't share the same cooling system - the expansion tank is the same on the 3GS, but the pressurized part (i.e. the actual cooling loop) isn't... Getting combustion gasses from the engine in the inverter coolant loop is highly unlikely. Engine-wise - no oil consumption, no antifreeze consumption, can't hit 100deg. on the engine (OBD2 monitor) to save my life - 95c at 60kph on a 7km long uphill requiring 50kw to maintain speed, that was from yesterday, highway accelerations to stupid speeds can't get more than that either... it doesn't really see coolant temps higher than 87 in daily driving scenarios.
  8. Hi Chris, Coolant temps >65c. for the inverter don't appear to be considered normal, at least according to everything that I've read. The inverter temperatures spike, but they are measured at the IGBTs, and electronics can put out ridiculous amounts of heat in a short time frame 🙂 No leaks found while presure testing. The cap appears to hold pressure, having attached a vacuum/pressure pump to the inverter-side bleed port I can force the cap to hold ~0.3 bar and it also draws fluid from the expansion tank without holding vacuum... on the other hand, I'm wondering if it might be drawing air from the expansion tank line - it's quite a long line, and given that the inverter coolant doesn't get hot at all... maybe it doesn't expand enough to "bleed" that line. I've been attaching it with the expansion tank high above in the air, I should've pushed fluid to the expansion tank by attaching the pressure pump to the inverter bleed port and forcing coolant through it. I'm waiting for a replacement cap to arrive regardless - preventative maintenance can't hurt, and it's probably the original one 🙂 Coolant is pretty much fresh - I did blow an inverter about a year ago when I got the car... let's say that some maintenance hadn't been done properly and I wasn't quite aware of it at the time. At any rate, tested today again and... 27deg. ambient, high gear, 65KPH acceleration - inv temp 2 goes to 125 almost immediately and then stays there until about 110kph or so. Uphill or level doesn't matter. Low gear acceleration in the same speed range doesn't see inverter temperatures higher than 100, and only for a split second - usually it peaks to 90 for one reading (1/4sec refresh intervals or so) and then holds 75 to 80. I'm not surprised that the temperatures are higher in the "high gear" scenario, but I'm wondering if they are supposed to go that high (hitting thermal throttling) on a properly functioning cooling system (and other components, of course).
  9. Hello, I was driving with hybridassistant on as of late to keep an eye on the engine temperature (had a suspect tiny headgasket leak, so far according to pressure testing & watching the cleaned "dip" area with a boroscope + a few days of generally stupidly hard accelerations & harsh driving... nothing to worry about - spilled coolant dip in the valley during inverter bleeding in the past), and I noticed that the "inv. 2" temperature sensor (which I'm guessing is the IGBTs for MG2) was hitting 140c+ on sustained "hard" (100kw+) accelerations. First thought - air lock in the inverter cooling loop, so I bled it according to the service instructions (and tinkered a bit with a vacuum pump). The radiator appears to be fine, the inverter pump works (turbulence + it pumps through hoses attached to the bleed ports), the electric fans both turn on. The current daytime outside temperatures are ~32 celsius, so that might be something. At any rate, went testing today, and the inverter generally stays below 90 except when accelerating hard at low speeds in second gear, until MG2 comes to revs. 0-140kph doesn't see temps higher than 90 or so (if they ever peak that high, usually they float around 78 during acceleration), 65-140kph can see up to 134 (probably momentarily higher due to OBD2 readout periods), generally only on an uphill and generally only in the range of, say... 65-100kph. Night time testing with 15deg. ambient leads to a max of 110 or so, same highway, same conditions. Steady 150kph (GPS speed) cruise = inv. 1 temperatures ~90, inv. 2 sub-60, even on uphills, so I'm not really worried about normal day-to-day driving conditions. Now the bleeding did improve things, but I still find a 134+ celsius worst-case (full throtttle, high gear & low revs mg2, uphill slope) to be worrying. One last note - it's a LHD car, so the inverter cooling loop is slightly different due to the relocated inverter - there's an additional bleed port right next to it. I'm starting to wonder if that's why I mostly read about LHD cars blowing inverters >_< At any rate, does anybody have an idea if the temperatures that I'm looking at are ok? Cheers!
  10. The part is G9040-30010. You can access it from underneath, just take all the covers off. It's the thing with the small finned radiators on it.. also, two pipes (one vertical, one horizontal) & a connector. https://www.google.com/search?q=G9040-30010&tbm=isch Even if you keep the hoses shut, a small amount of coolant will leak, and you'll have to add coolant & bleed the system as well as you can. You might get away with just adding coolant with the cap off & the pump running. The proper way involves running the pump and bleeding the system with the bleed ports. I remember there being two inverter bleed plugs, but that's on LHD cars (mine). The inverter loop radiator (in front of the main radiator, at the top, G9010-30010 ) appears to be the same, so there should be an attachment for a hose & a hex screw to loosen there (top-left, should be easy to spot). The pump runs at all times when the car is in "ready" mode (a.k.a. turned on, might take 20-30sec). You can also force it to run via techstream diagnostics while on 12v power (double press the power button without having your foot on the brake pedal). Techstream should be the better way - engine won't start, so you don't have to worry about heat, vibration and etc. from anything other than the pump. Check for turbulence, check the INV W/P fuse, squeeze the hoses around the pump (there might be blockage). You can check the wiring harness & try running the pump directly from the ECU, but I wouldn't do that without having access to the wiring diagrams, service manual and the particular page about the p0a93 DTC... better safe than sorry when the wiring harness alone costs >1k gbp, nevermind the ECUs and anything else that you might fry if you start assuming things (ok I might be over-exaggerating but safety first).
  11. It's not only that - if you don't slam it to kickdown, it takes a VERY long time to reach those 150kw, even with "power mode" (a.k.a. changed pedal position mapping) engaged. If you kick it, it builds the RPM for 1/4sec or so and then it's takeoff time... or it just barks once and stays still, as it's very easy to lose traction, and then it's a couple of seconds without any substantial amount of "go" whatsoever due to VSC. Even with power mode engaged and holding it "in gear" (a.k.a. in adequate RPMs), there's still some throttle lag if you ask for full power.
  12. The only other option that I'm aware of are the FIGS bearings (yup, this part is a heim joint, spherical bearing, however you wanna call it). I'm not sure if Jikiu (and other brands) are anything different. There's plenty of possible knock sources on the back of these cars, though - two ball joints (upper control arm, toe link, ignoring end links as you've changed those) and all the bushings, including the subframe ones. Of course, could be that the Febest ones are bad, too.
  13. https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/947393/ Mostly the same, definitely the same principle. In short - Prius power split device, with the connection between MG2 and the driveshaft happening with a 2-stage ravigneaux gearset.
  14. You also mentioned O2 failure - if it's the front ones (doubt it as that'll switch off all emissions-related checks until you've fixed it), you'd better replace it. You don't want your engine running far from stoich. As for the cats and if it's the rear O2s - swap O2s and see if it's still the same bank or the other. Then, check for leaks - y-pipe in particular. Exhaust parts including catalytic converters directly from Lexus are bound to be very expensive, but killing a cat nowadays... unless your car is burning oil and you're running a high phosphorus one... or you've somehow gotten leaded fuel in your car... and even then, pretty rare. At any rate, second hand low mileage ones or aftermarket should be way cheaper. Finally, that light being always on means if something else develops, you might not get any warning. Side note about the manifolds - a lot of aftermarket ones are listed to work with all of the rwd-application GR motors - that means all 2nd gen IS and 3rd gen GS cars, at least. Not sure if the cats on the OEM versions are the same, but if they are... way more scrapyard pulls are possible. Low mileage is250s should be plenty 😄
  15. One more thing about the 450h transaxle - it does have a front-mounted oil cooler. https://lexus-europe.epc-data.com/gs450h/gws191r/5066/chassis/3914/ https://lexus-europe.epc-data.com/gs450h/gws191r/5066/engine/1603/16491/ And, as John said - no torque converter, or anything slippery really... apart from the bands for the 2-stage automatic for MG2, but those shift very rarely.