Razor61

I had a look at the second knackered new shock earlier, jacked up the front right and removed the wheel. Toyota part number is 48510-50111 which is a puzzle and it says on it ‘JL 18’ which is maybe the date code - July 2018

That is my suspicion/gut instinct, there should be a date stamp on the shock so will have a look. The front right shock definitely feels like the gas has gone and oil has leaked out as well. If this is true, what about the other 3 x new Lexus shocks on the car? The rears seem ok and cured the bouncy ride but was that because they are also 'old stock' and not working as they should. I may jack up each corner and check for the date stamps on all the shocks when get home. If this cannot be solved by Lexus, and it may not be solvable due to 'brand new, newly made' shocks not available anymore, I'll get all my money back for the fronts and rears if possible then try the Gabriel Ultra Ready Mount stuff or another make.

Cheers, Lexus Bolton supplied and fitted the new front shocks. I'd had enough doing work on the car at the time and they did me a good deal on fitting them. I may have had a fight on my hands if I had bought the front shocks and fitted them myself.

This is a long story, bear with it as it will make sense in the end. As many may already know I rebuilt the front and rear suspension on my 98 LS400 a 18 months - 2 years ago, fitted KYB shocks not Lexus OE 'made by KYB' shocks and the rears caused a weird bouncy ride. Replaced the rear KYB shocks with Lexus OE 'made by KYB' shocks and this solved weird bouncy ride so I decided to replace the front KYB shocks with Lexus OE 'made by KYB' shocks so they all matched, original smooth softer ride restored. However, after driving the car I noticed a noise from the front right which was not there before Lexus fitted the new OE 'made by KYB' shocks. Sort of a suspension bush noise but I couldn't figure it out. It was more apparent going over speed bumps, where I live I can't go anywhere without going over at least 6, and I drove the car for a while to make sure I wasn't hearing things. I also checked all the suspension work I did and couldn't find anything wrong. I needed to have the alignment/tracking checked because I replaced the steering rack boots and had to remove the outer tie rods so I booked it into Lexus for the tracking and for them to check 'the noise' on the front right. The Lexus mechanic and I went for a drive somewhere with speed bumps so I could illustrate the noise and left the car for them to check. At this point the noise was there over speed bumps, was more very annoying rather than 'there is something very wrong' and I couldn't replicate the noise by bouncing the front of the car as far as I remember. Lexus checked all the suspension, all arms, bushes, top mount etc. which are pretty new and everything is tight as nut. Outcome was that it could be the new Lexus OE shock absorber as everything else is tickety boo and the noise wasn't there before. New front Lexus OE shock absorber ordered under warranty, this was a few months ago and the shock was on back order. Fast forward to Thursday last week, car went in for the replacement Lexus OE shock absorber and tracking. This is where it gets 'interesting'. Call from Lexus to say the new replacement Lexus OE shock absorber hasn't solved the issue, it wasn't the same mechanic who was shown the issue last time but a different mechanic that did the job. It didn't cost me anything but we, Lexus/myself, are back to square one. Could be the steering rack I'm told, couldn't see how but nothing surprises me any especially on an old car. Picked up the car and drove home, the 'noise' was a lot worse and I could hear it a heck of a lot more and this time it did sound like 'there is something very wrong'. I needed to get to the bottom of this so plan made to have a look on Saturday, maybe one of the new shock top mounts is causing the issue or a bushing or something. Saturday: Early sat morning, I bounced the right front of the car to see if I could hear anything. I couldn't hear anything a few months ago but the noise is a lot worse now. And guess what.................I could clearly hear 'the noise' and it didn't take much bouncing to hear it either. At least I can replicate the noise without driving the car so it gives me a chance to find it. Car on the Rhino ramps and I'm going to spend as much time as needed to get to the bottom of this issue. I then thought about the new top mount, it's been off the car for the new shock but dismissed this as it was on the car with the KYB shocks and it didn't make any noise at all plus they were brand new Lexus OE mounts. Next I checked all the suspension, top mount and bushes again, sprayed some WD on each bush and top mount then bounced the front of the car after each 'spray' to see if I could pin it down. Absolutely no change whatsoever so I got under the car and pushed the suspension up and down while listening. I could make the noise 'happen' while doing this. The more I did this and the more I listened I was pretty sure the noise was from the shock absorber but we are on the second new shock absorber, surely it can't be that!! So how do I prove it one way or the other? It's a strut so I can't just remove the shock and bounce the car. This is what I did, I removed the top nut from the shock absorber and this 'disconnects' the shock from the top mount - bounced the car as before and there was no noise. Put the top nut back on, tightened and bounced the car - noise came back Repeated this a few times just to be 100% sure and I noticed once the shock had been pushed down it didn't come back up. Another clue that the shock is faulty like there is no gas and/or fluid. There was fluid around the top of the shock which I wiped off thinking it was the WD I had liberally sprayed around and on the top mount. Maybe this was the fluid that had leaked out. This morning I called into Lexus and showed the Service guy what I'd found, bounce the front - noise there - remove top mount nut - bounce - noise disappears - put the top nut back on - tightened and bounced the car - noise came back. One of the mechanics came out and I showed him 'the noise', straightaway he said shock is knackered. Question now is, what to do about this - keep replacing the shock with a new one until a 'good' one is found? Lexus are unsure on what to do about it at the moment, not their fault at all that new parts supplied are faulty. I'm on holiday next week in Scotland/Borders and will be taking the IS250 so I've arranged to drop off the LS400 on Friday and leave it with them all next week to 'confirm' my findings 100% and decide what to do. I suspect the front passenger side shock is going the same way. Is there a shelf life on shocks and the gas/fluid leaks out over time or the 2 x new shocks from a faulty batch? 2 x new Lexus OE shock absorbers faulty and one worse than the other? Who knows and I'll keep this post updated with the outcome.

No comment🤣

That is indeed rare Malc, every LS400 I have looked at over the years has had water ingress in some form or another. i.e. boot seal, sunroof drain pipes not located correctly, antennae drain missing or draining into the boot, holes in the rear inner wings to name a few. Some worse than others, 'swimming pools' in the boot (wheel well or the pockets at the side) to 'tell tale signs' that water has been present at some point like the spare wheel in a mess with corrosion and white crud on the inside of the wheel. Maybe not puddles of water but condensation and dampness means there is moisture present somewhere or has been.

Car is always at a slight angle on the drive, sloping to the rear so water doesn’t pool. Maybe the capillary action of the water working its way down to the problem area happens or is accelerated when the car is moving, motion and air movement maybe. I vaguely remember reading it somewhere and the more the car is driven in all weather then the higher the chance of the ‘classic’ leak. I’ve soaked the boot and around the seal with lots of water and nothing seems to happen until the car has been driven.

Thanks, I'll be checking more often now. Yeah, I think you are on the right track with the sunroof drain/s at the rear or something and 'rodding' it with one of those flexible things with a brush on the end may do the trick. I think the Car Care Nut described the sunroof and drains as 'a controlled leak'. Dropping the roof lining and panels along with all the boot linings is probably the only way to get a good look at what's going on and get to the rear drains to rod them from the top down, I'd prefer to rod them from the top down rather than pushing any crud into the sunroof area inside and then it gets washed back into the drains. Maybe the rear drains can be accessed from the top using a flexible rodding thing with the sunroof open or partially open and some of the sunroof 'garnish' removed.

I know this subject has had a lot of attention. However, I just wanted to share my experience of this and it may help someone else. As documented in another post about my current car over the last 2 years or so, the boot was leaking into the spare wheel well when I first bought the car. I removed the old seal, cleaned, sorted all the rusty areas (the lip in the boot lock area was quite rusty with a small hole) and then painted the lip areas and fitted a new boot seal (still available at the time) Lip in the boot latch area after painting etc and before the new seal: I left all the boot trim out the car for quite a while to make sure it wasn't leaking. All good and I've been in and out of the wheel well to get the locking wheel nut on lots of occasions over the last 2 years. A few weeks ago I went into the boot under the floor to get the locking wheel nut, to my surprise and horror the area was very wet and the cardboard box for the locking wheel nut was soaking. Removed everything and left it all to dry, it wasn't a swimming pool in the wheel well but it was wet and the spare tyre was all wet . First reaction was, maybe I have been too vigorous with the power washer when rinsing off the snow foam when I washed it. So I left everything out of the boot and washed the car as normal, looked in the boot, it was dry and I couldn't see any water so it wasn't the power washer rinsing and 'forcing' water into the boot. I left the main plastic boot trim off the car so I could get to the boot lid catch area to see where the water was getting in, during the last few weeks I kept checking and sure enough it was leaking in behind the boot lid catch area, running down onto the wiring bracket and dripping into the wheel well. So it's the classic place for the issue. The dilemma was, do I remove the boot seal and 'seal' it all with something? It's a new boot seal, although it's 2 years old, and I didn't fancy that idea at all. I figured that my issue was the lip around the boot latch area that was rusted in the beginning, it wasn't great when I got the car, and isn't sealing correctly even with a new boot seal. Long story short, the lip wasn't flat in this area so - seal completely removed - straightened the lip, cleaned all round the boot lip (it's shocking how much crud accumulates in 2 years), refitted the seal and left it off the affected area round the boot lock - applied some black CT1 sealant to top of the lip in this area - pushed the seal back on and applied a small amount of CT1 on the inside and wiped off any excess. I prefer to use CT1 because it remains pliable and, in my opinion, is the best stuff to use on rubber seals/trims etc. because it sets like rubber. Pic below shows the area. Few weeks have passed with washing, driving and bad rainy/stormy weather. No leak so far and I'm pretty sure I would have seen anything leaking in. I also pulled the seal away further along periodically to see if the water was creeping along but it was all good and dry. While I was at it, I also re positioned the boot seal so one of the notches on the outer side of the seal was in line with the centre of the boot latch, something I saw on the Car Care Nut channel for the 600,000 miles Lexus. I had previously positioned the 'join' in line with the centre of the boot latch with the 2 x notches positioned equidistant along the bottom. Maybe the boot seal wasn't in the correct position, either way it looks ok now but time will tell and I thought is was cured 2 years ago.

£330 incl shipping for both motors from Amayama, plus the duty and taxes. At a guess around £400 - £430 all in. Some used motors on eBay are £100 + each so it’s not bad imo

Found this info from another post on here, makes sense and maybe the LS430 radiators were/are more susceptible to internal corrosion if the coolant isn't changed regularly than the LS400. According to the maintenance schedule, and I stand to be corrected, the coolant should be changed every 2 years or 30,000 miles but how many LS400/430 owners do this or have this done (apart from taking it to Lexus for the correct servicing at correct intervals) I certainly 'didn't' do this. Regular oil and filter change every 6 months, regular brake fluid change every 2 years yes but never thought about the coolant change every 2 years. It was around 2 years ago that the coolant on my LS400 was changed when the timing belt and water pump was done, I should change it as soon as possible I guess. £23 per 5 litres of coolant won't break the bank. Topic quote: The secret to having no problems with the transmission cooling on an LS430 is to make sure the anti-freeze is up to strength and is less than 5 years old at all times. The anti-freeze contains the corrosion inhibitor that stops the cooling pipe in the radiator rusting through and filling the gearbox with water! Topic:

Just one other possibility for this - the front strut rod bushes. Apparently this can cause a vibration around 60/65mph. Quote from a Buyers Guide on Club Lexus: Strut rod bushings, every 100k miles. Symptoms are: clunk when you first tap the brakes (you'll hear it in parking lots), slight vibration when going 60-65 mph or a shimmy under light braking from highway speeds that will be felt in the steering wheel instead of in the pedal like warped rotors normally would. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/1019550-the-unofficial-ls400-buyer-and-owner-s-guide-2024-a.html

The one you need is a different part number to the 94-2000 LS400 so even if you have one for the MK3 it’s not the right one. Just buy the right one and have it fitted, they don’t cost ‘an arm an a leg’ and it’s probably goosed anyway.

I think you know where you can get one………….Amayama or LPD or your local Lexus dealer.

Rear engine/transmission mount maybe? Part# 12371-50010 and my advice is to just change it.

Regarding the door check assembly, the drivers door never shut correctly and when closing it ‘normally’ it bounced - no matter what I did adjusting the striker plate. It shut better after replacing the door check assembly though, I’m not saying it should be like a Rolls Royce but should be better. So this morning I adjusted the striker plate again, this time I got the door to shut correctly no problem at all. It wasn’t a major issue at all but rather a very annoying issue and chuffed that it’s sorted. Issue was the door check assembly itself, I couldn’t see how the broken bit on the body side could cause this so I removed the rubber boot on the old door check assembly and there was broken bits of plastic, a couple of metal plates detached and the end of the metal arm was bent. Looks like one metal plate in the picture but it’s 2. I guess in the past the wind has caught the door and damaged the assembly at the door side and the body side. Fixing one issue at the door side (the cut down pin and broken plastic) with a new check assembly has fixed the door closing issue, now I know it’s all related. Passenger side has the same door closing issue, body side pin and cover is fine but it may have the same issue at the door end. I’ll order a new one next time I order some parts from Amayama.

Having used the product, I'm of the opinion that the compound will remove non-permanent owner applied coatings like Rain-X or other similar products. I didn't 'scrub' the glass with a lot of pressure at all, in fact far from it. Slight pressure and a few passes, horizontal then vertical, just like buffing the paintwork with a DA polisher or clay barring it and job done. But 'if in doubt, leave it out' would apply.

It does the job very very well and I was surprised. I watched the YouTube video below about 'Hyper Cleaning' the windscreen which was interesting. I didn't fancy using wire wool on the glass or windscreen though but looks like it works if you want to take the risk. https://youtu.be/ihCK_hLSD4I?si=ycxH9SEfhcbw5Cpu

Not specific to Lexus LS models but the Glass cleaning compound and then the treatment stuff below works really well and worth using in my opinion. It's not exactly cheap but it's worth it. I've used all sorts of products and methods on the glass over the years, cleaning normally, clay barring, glass cleaning foam, Rain-X etc. and combinations of, this is the best stuff I've used so far. The stuff: Soft99 - Glaco Glass Compound Roll On glass preparation cleaner, 100 ml - Glaco Glass Compound Roll On, glass preparation cleaner, 100 ml - Soft99 (soft99store.co.uk) Cleans the glass really well, use on the windscreen and the rest of the glass. I've used clay bar in the past which does the same sort of thing, this stuff is easier to use and works great. I had already used this on my LS400 windscreen so used it on the IS250 at the weekend. This car had a new windscreen a couple of years ago. I have cleaned used Rain-X on the IS250 windscreen but when it rained you see the water 'clinging' to the areas where the wiper is active. Difficult to explain but it wasn't right considering it's a relatively new windscreen and the Mrs kept saying new wipers are needed even though they are pretty new. After using the Glass cleaning compound, washing it off and rinsing, the windscreen was 'like new' and it had removed every bit of contamination and any previous coating applied, i.e. the Rain-X. Soft99 - Ultra Glaco liquid wiper, 70 ml - Ultra Glaco, liquid wiper, 70 ml - Soft99 (soft99store.co.uk) Easy to apply and works great, it doesn't repel the water as good as Rain-X I've found but it's supposed to last up to 12 months so will see. I thoroughly cleaned the wiper blades and applied some of it as well, this was recommended by someone for Rain-X and stops any juddering and reduces smearing apparently. So, windscreen done on the IS250, worth all the effort and worth every penny. Non of the 'water 'clinging' to the areas where the wiper is active' after being done. LS400 all exterior glass done, cleaned and coating applied plus the interior door glass cleaned but not coated with Ultra Glaco liquid wiper. Glass literally looks like new. More work for the door interior door glass cos you have to wipe it off thoroughly rather just rinsing it off with a hose. And again, worth all the effort and worth every penny.

Nice one Phil, I may coat the new doughnut with lacquer before I fit it. I'll follow your method on the one I take out and then I'll have a spare or sell it. iirc a new one in the UK is around £100 I think, £30 from Amayama and I ordered it along with other bits like the door check assembly and some clips. I wish I'd noticed the door check bracket cover missing though, I've ordered a new one from Lexus Bolton.

New OE radiator if you want to prevent anything but people will have reported any ‘LS430 type issues’ with the LS400 I would think. It’s a good idea to replace the radiator anyway and flush out the cooling system with an older car. The radiator on my car had been replaced otherwise I would have replaced it.

Nope, they are all the same design as far as I can see. The early cars may have separate couplings on the radiator for the trans fluid pipes.

You shouldn’t be put off, get a ‘good one’ while you can😉 What I would say though, rust/corrosion is the #1 enemy. I know from experience the places to look for signs on the series 2 aka MK3 and series 2a aka MK4. A ‘good one’ doesn’t guarantee it will be trouble free though, it may be trouble free if it’s just ‘run’ but time will catch up. Chances are the suspension and brakes will need attention whatever car you buy and will cost a bit depending on how far you want to go.

Took some pics of the door check assembly. Looks like the door check assembly isn’t ’handed’, the same assembly fits RH and LH. There is a plastic cover over the bracket on the body side, didn’t notice this was missing until I looked at the passenger side. Another bit ‘missing’ which I will purchase of course. Drivers side after new assy and new pin Passenger side

Correct, why the LS400 didn’t suffer the same issue is open for debate. I have never owned a LS430 so can’t comment on why LS430’s suffered from it. Maybe it’s down to the make/type of radiator or where the connections to the radiator are located.