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BigDingus

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  1. The drive cable on the RX300 (and similar) is made of hard plastic with a wire insert. Should you need to replace one that has been damaged, be prepared for a long and fiddly job. First this you will need to do is remove the glass, held by 4 screws. (This can be delayed until you are ready to drop the frame) Next the switch cluster (2 obvious screws and 2 hidden behind flaps), sun visors (2screws each), electric connections and the rear passenger light. Next remove the seatbelt covers. This is done by pulling, with some force, the lower panel away from the car B pillar. These are held by very strong clips. Next remove the upper belt cover by removing two 10mm bolts at the bottom. The upper covers can now be pulled away from the B pillar. Now carefully pull the roof liner away from the A pillars. This should then allow the roof liner, from the C pillar forward, to lower enough to give you access to the 4 drain hoses, which are help in place with clips. Now remove the drive motor electric clip and bracket. 2X 10mm bolts. You can now remove the 10mm nuts that hold the frame in place. 2 of which have a metal clamps at the rear doors. At this point lower both front seat backs as far as possible. Moving the seats as far forward as you can will help. I then removed the wind deflector and the water catcher. Both have very flimsy hinges. With great difficulty the frame can be taken out of a rear door. (I believe Lexus advocate you remove the whole roof liner and extract the frame out of the boot). The drive cables can be purchased direct from Lexus at £600 a pair. Or as I did, you can get them from an Internet bidding site for £42 plus VAT. The part number can vary per vehicle so be sure to order the one for your reg. Mine was 63205-48010 but the second part does vary. Be warned. When you take delivery of your replacement cables, you will get new guides that the glass fits onto. I strongly advise that you use your old ones and only swap the cables. The replacement ones have VERY small differences. You won't see these unless you use a Mic to measure it, but they will cause you issues. Before installing anything do a good clean and lubricate with light grease, including inside the cable runners. Now before you reinstall the frame, run the guides all the way to the rear of the frame. This will ensure both sides match after install. Confirm this before reinstalling the drive motor. The reinstall is just the above in reverse. Do a sunroof reset before you fit the glass. This ensures the glass is at the correct position when closed.
  2. I can make the adjustments on my suspension ok, but no where can I find the correct values. I've seen 45cm and 47cm. Is this at N setting?
  3. My RX300 developed a list to the front left where the suspension would drop as low as it could and just stay there. I took the sensor off and refurbished it. It now rises to a hight but I'm not sure what the correct hight should be. My left and right are different. Does anyone know the correct hights?
  4. FOR OTHERS WHO WANT TO REPAIR THE SUNROOF CABLES Lexus quoted me £600 (About $765), however I managed to get new cables from an online auction site for £45 ($57) It's not too difficult a job, but you do need to be carefull as it's so easy to damage parts. Remove the centre light, roof control switch panel and sun visors (2 screws behind the cover) from the front of the roof lining. Remove all 4 hand grips. Loosen the 2 front pillar covers. Loosen the 2 lower centre covers at the seatbelts. These are retained with clips. Takes a strong pull or in my case, push. Now loosen the 2 upper centre panel covers, Secured with 2 nuts at the bottom. Now lower the lining carefull not to damage it. While lowering disconnect wires. Once the lining is lowered, the sunroof frame can be remover by removing all the 10mm nuts. I was able to take the frame out the back door by lowering the front seat to it's lowest position. (Remove headrest).
  5. Thanks Steve. This will be helpful. Especially if I need a part number for bits I’m going to need. I got started on the head liner. To remove it took about an hour as I was being very careful as I’d never done one before.
  6. Thanks for your help on this. I was praying I wouldn’t need to do this. ok, sleeves up.
  7. As the heading says. I'm looking to replace one of the drive cables. I've looked online but can't find any information on how to do this. Does anyone have any information on how this can be done?
  8. Not sure if you've managed to solve this, but just incase you haven't. I have to do this often as my wife leaves this can sitting for months at a time, and this causes the batter to die. To reset the door windows. From closed, use the switch on each door. Run them to fully open and keep the switch pressed for a second, then run the window to fully closed. To reset the sunroof is similar. Using the 'tilt' switch, press and hold it untill the sunroof runs back and forward through a cycle. You will have to hold the switch for approx 20 seconds before this starts. Sorry but I can't remember if it's the front or rear of the switch you keep pressed.
  9. Perhaps I should have just hired a man with a flag to walk in front of me.
  10. Sorry about the mistake on my post. For solenoid read relay.
  11. Hi folks. Thought I'd post this for everyone who may want to do the same as I have. You'll have noticed that car manufacturers are making their cars to have the headlights on while driving. So I went about discovering how I could do this to my IS250. This is probably possible on other models but I don't know if the wiring colours would be the same. Doubt it. In this 1st photo you can see the connection that I worked on. It's under the steering wheel. In the second photo you'll see the wires that I shorted out to cheeks if it worked. Grey is the supply for the headlights (10V). Orange is for setting the lights to auto (10V). Blue is the side lights (5V) White is to ground all of the above. Using a solenoid to connect the grey and the white (works both side and head). The solinoid only switches on when the ignition is one. I powered the solenoid temporary to check it all worked ok. Just need to install the wiring properly now. Hope you find this helpful.
  12. Hi guys. I changed my timing chain about 2 years ago. It's been fine up until now. What I've noticed recently is a timing chain rattle for a few seconds after start, then it's fine. However, I'm now getting dash warning lights. The diagnostic computer gives an error code of P0340 which is a cam sensor error code. I've purchased a new one so I can start to identify which of the 4 is the problem. Fault finding is a bit of a pain as Lexus seal the sensors so well. This search didn't show any of them as being faulty. Want to avoid the ECU for the mo. So I decided to investigate the timing chain, just incase this was causing the error code issue. There is a little inspection hatch that gives access to the timing chain tensioner. Adjacent to the alternator. I've attached a photo of a very similar tensioner (I couldn't find a photo of Lexus one) This part (Circled) which I think should control the ratchet to stop the piston on the tensioner from returning to far. However on my engine it just swings loose. Is this normal or should it be locked in some way? Sorry for the long story.
  13. Hi everyone. My engine on my 2007 IS250 is playing up. I plugged a diagnostic into it an I get en error code P0340. This is the camshaft position sensor on A bank 1. My question is, can anyone tell me where this sensor is? I've tried Googling it, but get hundreds of indications and few are on an IS250. The ones that are don't show it. A photo would be great.
  14. Thanks for the input. Yes I've tried the connections. Trouble is it's the TWO front struts the are descending and not just one. This is why I'm looking at something else causing it. If there is a valve the is released when High to normal or low is selected, but so far I can't find any. Thanks for the input. Yes I've tried the connections. Trouble is it's the TWO front struts the are descending and not just one. This is why I'm looking at something else causing it. Also they were both replaced about a year ago, so can't see them both failing at the same time. If there is a valve the is released when High to normal or low is selected, but so far I can't find any.
  15. Hi folks. Bit of a story to tell. I got myself an RX300 2004 that needed some work on the suspension. I ended up changing the suspension ECU, refurbished the height sensors and replacing 3 out of the 4 struts which were all leaking. All has been good for about a year.......... then........... I find the front is no longer keeping it's height. So investigation starts. I thought the FL strut was leaking as it would loose height quickly, soon followed by the right one. Before I ordered a replacement I blocked off the airline to the left strut and monitored the right strut to see if it would loose height. Unfortunately it did, which leads me to think it can't be the left strut, but must be a valve that lets air out the system or something similar. Throughout all this the rear never lowers but keeps it's height. I thought ECU but it looses height when there is no power applied (Ignition off). Has anyone experienced this or have an idea?
  16. Yes m4rkw. I'm aware of the problems leaving it too long can have. Hence I want to tackle it now. I coould just send it for refurb but all the do is replace it. If a kit was available it would be easy to do.
  17. Hi folks. My aircon pump has started to make a loud noise when it's running. I assume this is one of the bearings that is about die. I was thinking of replacing the pump. However while watching a car refurb program, I saw that the pumps can be refurbished. (New seals and bearings.) My question is, does anyone know where a kit can be found? The interner was fruitless.
  18. Hi all. Would anyone know if there is a IS250 workshop manual to download? The reason I'm asking. I'm in the middle of refurbishing my brakes. I removed the sliders from the brake pad, only later to discover that the slider bolts are different lengths. So which one goes where?
  19. I do have an AUX button on the radio. Which is why you do need to do this if you want to install Bluetooth. Otherwise Bluetooth won’t work. you could always just stick a dead plug into the socket but that’s not really professional looking.
  20. Hi MR Vlad. I don't have satnav in my 2007. The AUX socket is under the centre arm rest at the rear.
  21. Hi everyone. I've generated this for an IS250, but it'll be relevant for more models. It's not a problem I have but I'm posting this for everyone's information. My 2007 IS250 was pre Bluetooth so there is no way of using Bluetooth unless you modify the car, which I've done. First I purchased 'DollaTek Bluetooth Receive Module' (Highly recommend it). You will need to splice the AUX wires. These are the red for right speaker, White for left speaker and black for return. The plug you are looking for is the one on the back and furthest away from the round aerial sockets. Sorry I forgot to take a photo. After fitting it I found that I couldn't select AUX on my radio. It was after some investigation I found that you can't select AUX on the radio unless there is something pluged into the AUX socket. So here is the info that will help those wishing to change the car to Bluetooth. Pull the AUX socket out and open it up. (See 1st photo) Once you've done that, just solder the two joints (highlighted) together and the radio will work without the AUX needing anything plugged into it. (See 2nd photo)
  22. Thanks for the reply PCM. I’ve had a look for an of button on mine but I’ve not been able to find on.
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