BigDingus

Hi MR Vlad. I don't have satnav in my 2007. The AUX socket is under the centre arm rest at the rear.

Hi everyone. I've generated this for an IS250, but it'll be relevant for more models. It's not a problem I have but I'm posting this for everyone's information. My 2007 IS250 was pre Bluetooth so there is no way of using Bluetooth unless you modify the car, which I've done. First I purchased 'DollaTek Bluetooth Receive Module' (Highly recommend it). You will need to splice the AUX wires. These are the red for right speaker, White for left speaker and black for return. The plug you are looking for is the one on the back and furthest away from the round aerial sockets. Sorry I forgot to take a photo. After fitting it I found that I couldn't select AUX on my radio. It was after some investigation I found that you can't select AUX on the radio unless there is something pluged into the AUX socket. So here is the info that will help those wishing to change the car to Bluetooth. Pull the AUX socket out and open it up. (See 1st photo) Once you've done that, just solder the two joints (highlighted) together and the radio will work without the AUX needing anything plugged into it. (See 2nd photo)

Great PCM I’ll check there.

Thanks for the reply PCM. I’ve had a look for an of button on mine but I’ve not been able to find on.

Hi guys. Im looking to do some work on my running gear. It would be helpful to lower or empty the air suspension. Does anyone know how to depressurise the system? Apart from obviously loosening a pipe.

The-Acre yes. That’s the connection on mine. As posted earlier, I’ve managed to make a tool that works great. However I’ve ordered the proper one from the net that should be easier to work with.

Thanks Colin. I’ll make good use of your info and order that. I made one that works.

Hi folks. Anyone know where I can get may hands on an air pipe removal tool? Part No 09730-00010

Guy just to give you an update. Removed the strut I had suspitions of. No reason I choose the one I did, just thought it was going down faster than the others. Once removed, I got to removing the rust with a toffy hammer (Lexus you should be ashamed). There was LOADS of it. Result. There was a unbelievably tiny pin hole. Now for the repair. Best way, I'm going to see if it can be welded and if not. An old fashined way. Screw with a rubber seal. 3rd option, replace it. New one is around £800. Thanks for the input guys.

So much trouble with air I'm looking at changing to spring.

Should have asked the question. How do I search for a leak on the top of a suspention strut? If I run pressure into it, the top will reposition back into the car. Or am I being dumb?

Thanks for helping guys. Due to both of your comments I'm going to attack the struts. I did have to replace a front strut due to rust, but due to access I haven't touched the others. Let the fun begin !!!

I have an RX300 2007 The suspension slowly drops. Takes about 10 minutes. All four corners drop. When I'm driving and I feel the suspention getting hard I change the height selection then back to N. The pump runs till it gains the proper height. This cycle never ends. If I leave the car for any time it drops to it's lowest. When I strat the car the pump won't run until I retart it a few times. (Been told that resets the ECU) Only valve I havent touched is the one above the rear axle, but in the middle of doing that. List of what I've done: Checked and cleand all height sensors. Checked all connections using soapy water. Checked struts for air leaks. Used smoke bombs for air leaks. Used dye to check for leaks. Replaced the sus ECU.

Hi there. Im looking to change my side lights to running lights. To do this I need either the lights wiring diagram or the colours of the wires at the steering column for the side lights. My intention is to short the wires so the side lights switch is bypassed. Always on.

Hi Jay. I did at lot of work on my RX300 suspension. I learned loads thru working on it and my research. So here we go. If it's only the one that is lowering then it is a result. You say you had the unit replaced, so I'm worndering why. Was it lowering before, hence the replacement. Has the garage fitted the unit properly, or not connected the air pipes correctly. If we assume the refit was done ok, then there is only two things that can be at fault. The sensor or the ECU. Either is cheap and one can be tested and repaired. The ECU can't. The first one to test is the sensor. I pray for you that it's not the front one as it's not easy to remove. The rear one is simple and quick to remove. To test the sensor you will need a multimeter. If you need to check it there's a good youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDFBm3AkVEs

Britprius, I found that one of the black guides had broken and one had cracks in it. I've had this car from almost new, so I know it's now been abused. The plunger that takes up the slack was only just touching the guide. So glad I did this much. Mostly rebuilt now, just waiting on the pipe that has a 2 week delivery from Japan.

Hi Britprius. I watched numerous YouTube videos. Loads of informative stuff that's been helpful. That said they are also a bit misleading. I tried to free the timing chain cover plate, literally for hours. Trying all I could, until my patience ran out and I resorted to strength (temper) and pulled a little harder. Only then did I find out that the oil scavenger pipe is actually bolted to the place. Not as the videos indicated. None show it to be bolted. So, new pipe ordered at £98 from Lexus. For anyone reading this in the future, to access the the nuts that connect the oil scavenger pipe to the front plate, you need to drop the steering rack and then drop the 'large' sump. You'll need to access four bolts in the 'small' sump. There are also two nuts that are very difficult to reach. I had to remove some of the bell housing so I could get a socket in. As you say I could have just changer the chain, but I went for fitting a chain kit that has all the timing components.

Thanks Britprius. I checked your hint before I started. The tensioner was at it's limit. Didn't even know that plate was there. Stripped the engine to where I remove the timing chain cover plate. I've struck a problem. The plate is loose and all the sealant is split. However I can't remove the plate. Something is holding it. Does anyone know if there is something behind the plate the holds it in place, or is there a key, or something, on the sump plate? I don't want to use too much force.

Sorry for not replying guys. Never got any notification of replies. Thanks Beamish. Newbie I have reset it everytime I swap or replace a sensor. My local garage said it's probably the chain if I've investigated the sensors the way I have. I managed to get a chain sensor for £147 new. Lexus don't do them.

One more question guys. The reason I asked about the millage. I keep getting P017 fault code. Bank 1 sensor B. Can anyone tell me where this sensor hides?

Hi folks. My is250 2007 is showing P017 fault code, which brings on warning lights on the dash. I’ve replaced the sensor but to no avail. Before I set about replacing the timing chain (big job), can anyone tell me how long a chain should last for. I want to make sure it’s the chain My milage is 80,000 ish.

An update to my post. I used some diagnostic software and it reports 'Compressor Locked'. Does anyone know what this is? I turns freely. Both clutch and pulley. If I can fix this I'll have a go, but nearing replacing the compressor.

Yes The-Acre. It’s fully charged and holds it’s charge well. When I run the self diagnostics it gives a code of 00 which is no faults. When on is selected on the ac the car revs change up, so the car thinks all is good. It’s only then that the ac shuts down and it announces ‘check air conditioning’ (Or similar). I’m going to remove the pump and check it. Thanks for posting.

My aircon compressor clutch isn’t firing on my RX300 2004. My clutch turns quite easily. The connection gets 12v when I switch the ac on then quickly switches off. I assume because the clutch doesn’t spool up. I’ve tried a direct feed to the compressor but it still doesn’t get the clutch to fire. I can only assume the coil is faulty, so if I can get a coil I will. This leads me to my question. Does anyone know if this coil is available anywhere? Also does anyone know what the three pins in the connection are? Before I purchase one I will be checking if it’s definitely blown.

Thanks Herbie. I only just found it. It’s next to the ‘file’ tab. Was told it can change things like the reverse bleeper volume etc