H3XME

Don't remember ever seeing disasters but gear changes are often crisper post flush. Look at any oil, it loses lubricating priorities over time. Not as much as engine oil due to lesser heat but the principle is the same

Grab a spare wheel & some tools.

They're cheaper and less miles. I see a lot of them by me, but hey are all taxis tbh.

If it was a Prius, there is a very good chance it was JDM import that didn't have DRLs. Spec issue I'd say is more likely than someone went out of their way to turn them off. That'd be stupid, although not surprising🤣

Front parking sensors came ONLY on SE-L & Sport models. (if we're talking pre-facelift cars) Rear parking sensors were an optional extra on SE. Navi, ML & Rear cam was also an optional extra. So you could have both, camera AND parking sensors. Most SE's with camera have the rear sensors too, but it was an optional extra, and probably didn't cost a lot since most of them have it. Memory seats with telescopic steering were not available on SE's.

Start from the easiest fixes. Clean the MAF. Clean the throttle body. Air filter clean? When was the last time your plugs were changed? Could be the coil pack going bad. It is cold outside. Funny idle can be caused by a few things so it's difficult to tell you exactly what you need to do.. Does the car perform okay other than the issues stated above? Do you think it hesitates when you put your foot down? I had something similar on my 250, but mine was manual. Say if i was doing 60mph at 2000RPM, then coming down to an island and pop it into a manual to coast down the car would sometimes stall. RPMs would drop and the car would shut off. And after restarting the car and coming to a stop, it would rev hunt. Rpm would be unsettled, idling at 500rpm. Almost like a loss of oil pressure. It all went away when i cleaned the maf. Also changed the air filter but that wouldn't have affect on this as the old one wasn't that dirty.

They do, but some certainly more than others. Really depends on a car. Generally speaking, Subaru, Mazda, Honda, Nissan & Mitsubishi are prone to rust. Suzuki, Toyota & Lexus tend to be a lot better in comparison. There are exceptions of course. Lexus IS200/300 (first gen IS) are really bad for rust everywhere, but they are 25 years old this year. IS250/220d (second Gen IS) are fine except for subframes on some cars (nothing on chassis legs and other common spots). Subframes are understandable to be honest, it's exposed all year round. It seems like IS300h/250 (3rd Gen) is following First gen's footsteps.. GS300/450h (2004+) are also prone to rust a lot more than IS's. LS's not so much.. Anyway. The best thing to do is to inspect the car when on the lift, and get it rust treated with Lanoguard if you can. Or just take it to a garage but it will cost you a few hundred quid. Small price to pay if you ask me. Especially if you want to keep the car for some time.

@Neilo @Taseen Just to add, SE-L wasn't the only model with auto-dimming mirrors. Sport models had it too. They're actually the second best specced cars right after SE-L. If you're after auto-dimming mirrors and you're looking for SE-L cars only it will narrow your search down too much since the Sport models had it too. Get in touch with breakers. There's lots of cars being advertised as "breaking only" I created a chart some time ago, it should be over 90% correct. I'm going off personal experience with SE & Sport models. The only bit that could be wrong is the wheels. I could not find UK brochure from 15 years ago to double check exactly what models had what options for upgraded alloys. Green - standard spec Red - not available Orange - optional extra (The chart below covers only pre-facelift cars)

I thought only 99+ were DBW. 97 should be cable. But it's possible!

Hi David, I did it in both of mine. 2006 and 2008. Rear seats were replaced with facelift leather ones (white stitching) as my original interior was the microsuede specific to the sport models. 3IS rear seats don't fit. They're a different shape

I don't think it will work on this car. It's got electronic throttle control - no throttle cable like in older cars, so I doubt the throttle opens until the car actually starts 🥲but i could be wrong.

Glad to hear you don't have any issues, but just to put my 5 pence here.. I would check that the spark plugs have been done. And the transmission & diff flush is worth doing also. This is a preventative maintenance. Changing stuff that should be changed after something goes wrong is too late.

£800 budget is REALLY good. You can even get Tesla Model 3 wheels. They're very similar specs to OEM Lexus wheels at 18x8.5 ET40, they fit VERY nicely. Facebook Marketplace would be a good place to start looking for wheels. There is far more listings than on eBay. People are more likely to advertise on Marketplace as it's free unlike eBay. Here's a set of 4 wheels with Good Michelin Pilot Sport tyres. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/159898987157845 As for your damaged wheel. Is it not possible to just get it refurbed? Buckled or cracked wheels can be fixed. They will just weld the crack. Finding just one F-Sport wheel will be difficult. They do pop up sometimes. I saw a set of 4 for £300ish but they needed a refurb a few weeks back. Though judging from your air leak, time is not really on your side. Set of Lexus 2010+ wheels - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/252771514317570/

This is a common thing. Funnily enough, only ever heard it on automatic cars. I think it's suspension related (at least that's what it sounds like) but I don't think I've ever seen anyone figure this out. Never caused any issues (it never got worse) but yeah, having had 3 manuals, none of them did that, but close friends with auto 250s say their do it and so did my dad's facelift 250. The clunk sounds almost like as if a spring re-seated itself in the cup, but that doesn't make sense considering it only ever happens at specific moment = reverse and steer.

Sorry, don't have it anymore.

Here's what the guy in Sweden did. His car is Auto btw, so this swap is possible on both, manual and auto cars. I was speaking to him this morning about this swap. "Hey. Just put the 4GR lower and upper intake manifold on the 3GR and everything will be plug and play. I also took all the mounts for cables and coolant hoses from the 4GR and put on the 3GR.I left the AC pump in the car as I took the engine out but yes all the auxiliaries should fit both engines. I have had zero issues with this swap and can absolutely recommend it! I removed engine only and from the top. And as I wrote earlier I left the AC pump in the car. To clear the steering assembly I removed the drivers side exhaust manifold before taking the engine out. Behind the AC pump (you have to remove it) is a connector to the crank sensor. In general, the sensor and coil connectors are very brittle so be careful when removing them. That's all I can think of for now, it's tight around the engine but very straight forward. Must say the IS250 runs the 3GR very well actually. Same cams, same intake manifolds and same injectors. So I guess it just gulps a bit more air compared to the 4GR and the ECU seems to be able to correct it with ease." @Mike_Mac @AFlex @Linas.P @CiaranMcK

Just to put my 5p here, why not invest £250 into a good Apple/Android CarPlay head unit? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004171662274.html the one for £269 is a good spec. I got one myself. Very happy with it.

a couple of hours of work and oil, you're looking at sub £300

@GMB Why would you be buying a car from websites like that? I already said, most of those cars come from auctions, get bought by companies like BeForward, TCV etc. and sold onto to a person such as yourself who doesn't want / know how to buy off auctions.. you are getting the same car though, you're just paying more for it. "2021" IS-F.. typos happen. It's obviously not a 2021, but if you look at the car you can tell it's an IS-F. Look at the auction results I've attached. White 2008 IS-F: Sold in November. Grade 4, 68,000miles, sold for £7600. Price on the road in the UK> ~£14-15k (This includes all costs associated with the car) Blue 2008 IS-F: Sold end of October. Grade 3.5, 105,000miles, sold for £3900. Price on the road in the UK> ~£9-10k (This includes all costs associated with the car) Black 2008 IS-F: Sold in October. Grade 4.5 (pristine), 49,000miles, sold for £11,300. Price on the road in the UK> ~£19-20k. White 2010 Facelift: Sold last week: Grade 4, 37,000miles, sold for £11,300. Price on the road in the UK> ~£19-20k just like the black one above. It's this simple, there's no need to argue over this. Your car supermarket charges more because they want to make money. Auctions are cheaper because they're a free for all. It's exactly the same as in the UK. You can go to an auction and buy cars cheaper, or you go to a garage..

There is a guy in Sweden who did the swap a year or two ago. There's people in the US that have done it too. 3GR swap is a straight swap, it's like taking 4GR out and putting it back. It runs of IS250 ecu, so there is literally no messing about. It couldn't be easier. I don't know how this would affect the auto box, but all the swaps I know of were done on manual cars. The gearbox is more than strong enough for this. Guys are running 2GR with this manual box too, so there is no worries. This is honestly the only financially feasible swap / power upgrade on these. Engine will cost you ~£500-700, and after that you pay around a grand for labour. The next best thing is a supercharger which will cost £5,5k + fitting.

it goes like the below snippet of an email I got from a company in the uk. so if they win an ISF on the auctions for ¥1mil for you, it’ll cost you about £11k by the time you put plates on it.

Quoted prices above include insurance and shipping. Therefore $11,000 = £8750 + ~35% on top. = ~£12k landed. Dock release fee is less than £100, MOT £50. It only costs a bit more if you need IVA for cars newer than 10 years.

Something to ask when equiring. They have a good reputation to be honest. And most if not all cars listed are ex auction vehicles so should come with auction grade sheets too. Generally speaking cars in Japan are kept in better condition than here

I’m looking at auction prices. Beforward is inflated as they want to make some profit on them too but here’s two. https://sp.beforward.jp/lexus/is-f/bp288479/id/5718371/ https://sp.beforward.jp/lexus/is-f/br020058/id/6418516/ add 35% on top of the figure to get uk registered price

Not a chance. You can import them from Japan for a lot less. 110,000 miles 2008 ISF sold the other week for 700,000Yen which equals to about £9k with registration & import charges to the UK. 2012 Facelift with 40,000 miles sold for 2mil yen = ~£19k on the road.. If anyone is looking for an ISF,I'd recommend getting in touch with some reputable companies that import cars in the UK. Harlow Jap Autos, Torque GT, Just-Jap Imports etc.