GS300h2014

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About GS300h2014

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  • First Name
    John
  • Lexus Model
    GS300h
  • Year of Lexus
    2014
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Buckinghamshire

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  1. If the problem only shows when the wipers are used intermittently & not when used normally then I wonder if that suggests a relay problem? Has your car got a rain sensing option? I'm puzzled why there are two relays in Bob's car. If you have two identical ones; is it worth switching them to see if it changes anything? A quote from https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-an-intermittent-wiper-relay-by-ronny-brown 'If the windshield wipers function on high and low but do not work on the intermittent setting, then your intermittent wiper relay may be faulty.'
  2. Your problems might be caused by your aged battery offering too low a voltage for the various control units to initialise correctly on start up. The voltage ought to be upwards of 12 volts. Screwfix do a digital multimeter for £7.49 if you haven't got one.
  3. Would seem to be not related to the front brakes as you've renewed them. Front suspension, wheel bearings or engine mountings are other possibilities. Could something be not properly bolted down e.g. battery or front bumper?
  4. I wasn't aware my GS had this feature, so thanks for the insight. I've just adjusted mine to 5 flashes using: As one of the comments points out you move the wiper knob fully up & then only partially down for it to work.
  5. Should one replace a transmission's oil? There are 4 types of gears: 1.Auto box 2.Rear differential 3. Manual box 4. Sun & planets hybrid box. My sentiment is that only the first 2 need oil changes. Its not obvious to me why you would want to change the hybrid's oil; there are no wearing clutches or combustion fumes to contaminate the oil. I can see the need if a bearing or gear failed. However I stand to be corrected/educated.
  6. It would seem to me that the whole point about diesel engines is that they are not dependent on electrical supplies or spark ignition. The injection pump sucks fuel from the tank and combustion is auto ignite. If your intake (fuel filter) & output (DPF) is unobstructed & your fuel unpolluted then that suggests your fuel injection pump is not responding to the your accelerator pedal. However having said all that here's a IS220D review: After years of relying on a thirsty petrol-only model range in the premium upper-medium sector, the IS now has, on paper at least, the engine to challenge the dominant diesel models from Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz. But whereas the diesel versions of these three cars are, in the main, better all-round drives than their petrol stablemates, the IS220d isn’t. The 175bhp four-cylinder common rail unit in the IS220d has a big power advantage over its three German rivals, and the rear-wheel drive chassis suggests it will have the ride and handling to challenge the 3-series. All well and good, except there’s a real problem with the performance. Sure, the engine is smooth and refined, but combined with a gearbox with incredibly long ratios, it simply isn’t quick enough. Factor in a hefty kerb weight of more than 1,600kg (almost as much as the bigger GS model) and progress is frustratingly slow. The real villain of the piece is the gearbox, with its overly long ratios which conspire to smother any of the engine’s potential – and we know what this unit can offer having driven it in various Toyota models where it displays much more vigour. In the IS220d, when you press the accelerator very little happens until the gearing allows the engine to reach around 2,000rpm when the peak torque level is found. Things continue as you progress through the six-speed gearbox, with the process repeated until you reach fourth gear and the torque level becomes more accessible. In Sport trim level you get a different gearbox with shorter ratios which are claimed to boost acceleration times by a third. It’s a shame this unit isn’t available on all specifications. While performance isn’t brilliant, at least the IS220d is a comfortable driving companion, with a well-balanced blend of comfort and handling.
  7. I have all season tyres on all my cars & I suspect they don't last as long as summer tyres. However I don't care as I reckon they're of benefit not just in snow but whenever the temperature is less than 5C & especially on frosty nights with ice patches on the roads.
  8. Another endorsement of the extended warranty scheme. I would suggest that it's not very impressive for Lexus to design the RX450h's front suspension so that you have to take the engine out to repair it. Surely any high mileage car will needs these parts replaced eventually.
  9. You've certainly have a leak or a puncture. I had a bent alloy on my Corolla recently. It cost me £50 to fix but it was not letting air out. I would follow Shahpor's advice to work out if it's a problem with the valve, or dirt between the rim and the tyre or a very small puncture in the tyre.
  10. It came as standard on my 2014 GS. It's very useful when reversing out as door mirrors & the camera don't always show approaching vehicles. I also value the warning it provides on both sides on motorways.
  11. Max, It's a non trivial task involving removing wheel, moving the calliper & removing the pads. Extra care is needed if the car is a hybrid. I've just mine at 53k and 6 years & they were just starting to bind. However the sliding pins were free to move. I haven't a photo but here's one of a similar setup on a Prius with the guy pointing to one of the 4 pad contact areas which corrode.
  12. In my experience there are 2 problems with these floating calliper brakes. The major problem is certainly stuck slide pins. The other is what Paul Brooksbank mentioned in April. He said 'The pads needing a hammer to remove is quite normal in my experience due to corrosion on the upper and lower edges of the backing plates'. As the rust develops it squeezes the channels in which the pads slide. This causes the pads to become stuck, thus resulting in a premature replacement of pads & discs. I fix this by using a wire brush to remove the rust & then applying a trace of silicon grease to reduce future corrosion of the disc brake cylinder mounting at the undersides of the stainless steel pad support plates.
  13. Steven, could it be the brake pump operating after heavy braking?
  14. David, are you checking the oil level when the engine is at normal temperature or when it is cold? It could make a difference if the reference level applies to a warm engine engine & you're checking it cold. My GS300h is checked when warm, I don't know about your LS430 however.