amazighman

Also found a website called Veygo.com , apparently run by Admiral , they seem to offer temporary insurance on such old cars.

6 hours ago, Howplum said:

If the garage have a trade plate then that might be a possibility, if they agree to collect it, because it should be on their insurance policy.

Have you asked your current insurers to add it as a temporary additional vehicle?

One of the conditions on an insurance policy is that the vehicle should be roadworthy.

Is it worth asking the garage to do a pre-MoT inspection, at your house, to highlight any potential issues?

Road Tax is not required provided you have an appointment for the MoT test, although I think the aforementioned trade plate would include that anyway.

I wouldn't recommend selling the car without an MoT because it will not only significantly reduce the price achieved but also appeal to far fewer buyers, potentially limiting your market to someone looking for a project/bargain and who doesn't live too far away (or who has a low loader).

Hi .

I found online a website called clickmechanic , who seem to offer MOT delivery and collection for 75quid , However they don't state wether the car has to have a valid MOT , I presume they drive it on trade plates , so It wont be needed.

I have tried aviva plus , I think aviva short term  is using dayinsure.com which wont insure an LS.

The MOT station is down the road from me , probably 1min drive , I just dont want to take the risk driving there with no insurance , sods law you know.

I might speak to the MOT guys see if they can drive it to their place ...

I might be tempted to List it for sale as it is, with no MOT , 

Hi.

I have a lexus ls400 1998 model thats sitting in my garage for a while now , I am planning to sell it soon , it has no MOT , I tried a few online temporary insurance websites but it seems like most dont cover cars of that age , I wanted to take the old girl for its mot and perhaps a last drive.

Does anybody know any temporary insurance website that covers these cars?

Thanks

Hope part numbers are correct.

Tried to email lexus parts direct but they never replied.

Will call them , if no available then I will call main dealer .

Hi.

I am after the rear window bottom black trim white clip , 

Part 75497-50040 x 1

And some clips for the boot trim the U shaped one  that has 4 clips .

90467-05125  x 4

If anyone has them please PM or reply here.

Thanks in advance

Hi .

I dont know what adhesive or sealant to use to attach trim to the body? I mean the black trim that sits between the rear screen and  boot lid  , it has around 6 fixings and they put a smear of some sort of adhesive the hold the wing shaped plastic down.

Any ideas?

Are your mirrors auto dimming?

Most people just stick the new glass on top of the damaged one.

These auto dimming mirrors are around 200 quid from Japan... Second hand ones do come up on eBay ,I bought one last year for 20 quid

Hi guys.

Sorry to resurrect this thread.

I have cleaned all the rust and welded what needed welding so it's ready to put back together.

The black trim that runs under the rear screen is held down  by some sort of double sided tape, or adhesive where the wing shaped part is.

What you guys  use to secure it down? I was thinking seam sealer or silicone... But then double sided tape springs to mind?

Awesome many thanks.

I will get the old gal welded and I will paint the area with epoxy paint after rust removal.

Is this trim made of 3 sections? 

Two wing like which are mastiked to the car body and a long strip under the rear screen?

Or it is one single piece?

Thanks

Cheers Steve

Is that mastic there to hold that trim down or it to keep water away?

Thanks chaps... I will give it a go

But how to remove the black trim under the rear screen?

Hi chaps.

I sorned the old girl for the winter and one of things that needed doing was to sort out the leaky boot .

I removed the old weather strip and found a bit of surface rust on the bottom lip which I will treat with some rust remover untill all gone.

However , to add to my misery the left side lip has a section about 2-3 cm that needs welding...

I need to remove the black trim that runs under the rear screen to sort some rust .

It seem like the sides are glued or mastiked to the metal.

See pics.

Thanks

Double check the alternator is working properly.

It did happen for me before when replacement  alternator that I bought was faulty .

If there is enough room  you could try and connect the positive lead of the multimeter to the terminal on the back of the alternator and find a good ground ... see if the voltage is same low or higher.

I like your build and I can see the effort you are putting to restore the car to its former glory.

I have always been  a stock original spec person, I cant help not to comment on the K&N air filter.

Cool air thats sucked in from the outside is more dense than warm air the K&N gets inside the hot engine bay

8 hours ago, Darkstar66 said:

Hi! 

New to the forum so apologise if this is a repeat question! I have had a quick look but can't find what I'm looking for.

I'm changing the timing belt soon and quite happy with the process but I'm struggling to find information on part numbers.

Specifically the gaskets for the thermostat housing which will need to be removed for access. 

Does anybody have a parts number list for this?

Cheers guys!

https://lexus-europe.epc-data.com/

2 hours ago, Howplum said:

I've been fiddling with a friend's car that has been standing for 3 years, and noticed that the fluid reservoir is empty. I pumped the brake pedal, but there was no improvement, so there must be a lot of air in the system. After pumping I noticed a small damp patch just forward and inboard of the rear offside wheel. It appears to be coming from above the subframe. All the hoses seem fine, as do the visible brake pipes. The car has not been run for 3 years, so I'm ruling out master cylinder/servo issues. I am wondering if there will be an issue if air has got into the ABS mechanism, if there is one. I am thinking of filling the system and bleeding all 4 wheels so that I can at least move it. I have access to a pressure bleeder, if necessary. Any thoughts?

Standing for 3 years isn't going to do the brakes any good.

Fill up with fresh new fluid and bleed, if any leaks are present you ll find them then

20 hours ago, Herbie said:

I'd stick to Toyota Type IV.

As we know, Toy/Lex don't make things like brakes, wipers, batteries and suchlike so I have no qualms about buying aftermarket parts from local motor factors or such places.

However, auto transmission fluid is chemically very complex and contains all sorts of things to do all sorts of jobs, amongst them being friction modifiers and lubricants. Inside the transmission are various rubber seals and things and the fluid and seals have been designed to be compatable with each other.

If an aftermarket equivalent ATF has just one chemical or just one aspect of it that's slightly different it may wreck the transmission, which would be a very expensive mistake.

IMHO, it's just not worth trying to save a few quid on this, plus it's not that expensive anyway. I think I got 10L for about £70 from my local Toyota main dealer.

Lexus quoted 51 quid for 5L dont know if it can be bought cheaper anywhere?.... remember due to GBP to USD collapse  prices of parts have gone higher

 The guy who did the job works on his own and he has always been very competitive in his pricing...

22 hours ago, Howplum said:

For comparison, I had a quote the other day from a garage here in Milton Keynes of £470, including VAT, which comprised 3.2 hours at £60 p.h. (plus VAT) and a genuine Lexus cambelt kit and water pump at £199.65 (plus VAT). No mention of the cost of coolant though.

The main dealer initially quoted £850 ish, although reduced this to £750 after a bit of pushing.

 

I Thought that by the book its at least a 6 hrs job

Hi.

Just a quick enquiry here chaps... Does anyone know any good Type 4 ATF equivalents for a cheaper price?

I found Mannol  3309 claims its Type 4 equivalent however did anyone here used them

37 minutes ago, Malc said:

OMG looking at the engine compartment today, such a rare occurrence, of course the pas cooler pipes are in front of the aircon unit

apologies  ......  am I going nuts 

Malc

I think its the aircon dryer pipes where they join a union block , i suppose some o.ring there has failed