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About Ompa

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  1. Hi! The issue in picture format: From what I've read on various forums, it seems to be fairly common that the wheels on the 3rd Gen GS (and also other models such as the IS) suffer from cases of corrosion. This was something which my own 2008 GS300 also unfortunately was a victim of. Being in the scenario that my tires would require changing in maybe a couple of years, I wanted to fix this with two primary parameters in mind: * Not too expensive since the tires (and then maybe also wheels) would require changing in some time anyway. * Not something I wanted to spend weeks on doing. I could spend a day fixing this but not much more. So here is my refurbishing journey, hopefully helpful for someone in the same or similar situation as myself. What you need in terms of material to accomplish what I did: * Cleaning material to ensure the wheels are completly clean before painting. Don't know the proper terms for this in english (I used "rödsprit", denatured ethanol). * Primer paint. (I used 2 spray cans) * Wheel spray paint (I used 3 spray cans) * Clear coat spray (I used 1 can) * Sanding material (60-240 paper for the really tough parts) * Wet-sanding material (400-1200 paper. I used 800) Picture of the paint products I used: (Hagman / Auto-K primer) (Auto-K Wheel Spray Titan Silver) (Auto-K Wheel Spray Clear Laquer) Step 1: Get the wheels of the car Step 2: Get the wheels to a comfortable place and start sanding the corrosion away. The more time you spend doing this the better the end-result will be. However, this is also the (in my opinion) most boring and most labour-intensive step. I used a Fein Multimaster to assist me with this step: With this tool I removed the worst parts of the corrosion with a 120 grit paper, and then finished off by hand-sanding with 120 grit and 240 grit paper. This is how one of the wheels looked after performing this step: Step 3: Apply the primer paint. Do this by applying several coats of thin paint layers. Step 4: Allow the primer to dry. After this, the spots requiring more sanding will be clearly visible. This is now solved by wet-sanding. The same wheel after performing this step: Step 5: Start applying the base coats, by still doing thin layers and then several coats. (To the left is a wheel with base coat applied, to the right one with only primer applied) Step 6: Apply the clear coat. Same as before - thin layers and cultiple coats. Step 7: Allow the wheels to dry (overnight preferably) Step 8: Put the wheels back on and hopefully enjoy the result of your hard work. The actual result actually looks better than the picture above tells. The end-result looks a lot more "popping" and more silver in terms of the color of the wheel than what the picture shows. So all in all - were my parameters initially set up (cost & time) met? * Cost -> Total cost was about 70£ (800SEK), including cost of paint and sanding material * Time -> It took me about a day to perform the steps mentioned above. I started Saturday morning and put the wheels back on Sunday morning (they dried overnight). I cut a lot of time waiting for the paint to dry by working on the wheels sequentially. When one wheel had its base coat drying, one had the primer drying, one was being wet-sanded and one was being initial-sanded for instance. Hopefully this helps anyone wondering if this is a DIY-job or not. Since I did not remove the tires, and did not sink the wheels into acid totally removing the corrosion it will probably eventually come back. However, spending one day to give me ease of mind not having to look at the horrible state of the wheels was enough reason for me to do it.
  2. I bought these a couple of months ago: I am very satisfied with my purchase - easy to replace and works like a charm.
  3. This is apparently also true on the 3rd Gen GS (which I discovered after struggling with changing mine). Here's a photo from the manual:
  4. Car: 2008 GS300 Issue: Heavy condensation in one of the headlights (passenger side). Especially after washing the car or after heavy rain - a lot of condensation would appear in both headlight housings on one side. Picture below: To the left is the affected headlight, to the right is the unaffected one. I've seen multiple threads where this issue has been discussed, so I thought I'd also write about my troubleshooting journey. 1. Condensation appears in the passenger headlight. After a couple of days (depending on the weather) it would reduce, but very slowly. This needed fixing. 2. Removed the bulbs from the headlight and let it sit in the sun for a while. This would remove the condensation after about 60 minutes. However, after raining or washing the car the condensation would appear again. Not fixed. 3. Decided to remove the headlight from the car. This is a very easy task in itself since the headlight only is held on by three bolts, see exploded view below: However, to reach these three bolts the front bumper will need to be (partly) removed. This might look hard - but is in reality quite easy. A rough description is as follows: A) Remove engine plastic covers, disconnect battery B) Remove 10mm screws under the car keeping the bumper in place C) Remove 7 10mm screws on top of the bumper, 3 by each headlight and one by the Lexus logo D) Remove plastic clips and screws by each wheel liner, so a hidden screw holding the bumper in place can be accessed E) Gently slide the bumper out - there are "tabs" close the upper fender holding it in place so make sure it can slide out from these F) Disconnect the washer, and connector for main harness connected to the headlight(s) G) Remove the aforementioned 3 screws holding each headlight in place Note: The headlight(s) can be removed without fully removing the bumper, see below: 4. Took the affected headlight inside, removed all the bulbs and then lit it sit overnight to ensure no moisture was left before getting to work at it. 5. Added silicone to the original seal. 6. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly 😃 Take note with the main harness connector - it's easy to think "Ah there I got it on" when in fact it's not fully engaged. Don't ask me why I know this... 7. Live a trouble-free life with a headlight not affected by condensation? Unfortunately, this was not the case. Condensation still returned despite my efforts in sealing the headlight. Not fixed. 8. So I bought a dehumidifier and placed at the bottom of the headlight assembly, as a temporary solution. Did this solve the condensation issue? Yes it did. So the problem is as of now temporarily fixed. 9. I'm currently debating whether step 10 will be either: * Remove the headlight again and look for issues with the "built-in ventilation" for headlight * Buy a new headlamp Lexus Sweden charges 8700 SEK (765 £) for a new headlight, but I've also seen aftermarket versions available on e.g. eBay. If anyone has any experience with aftermarket headlights for the GS I'm all ears 😃 TL;DR: I tried fixing a headlight condensation issue on my 2008 GS300, but only managed to temporarily fix it using a dehumidifier placed in the headlight assembly. Hopefully someone will benefit from my troubleshooting journey nonetheless though. / Chris
  5. Hi! Quick question to which i presume the answer will be no but just to make sure: - Will TPMS-sensors from a 4th Gen Lexus GS (or even newer ES) work on a 3rd Gen? My specific case is that I have a 2008 GS300 and have been offered a set of 4 sensors made for a 2019 ES300h for a great price, but I assume that the sensors are not interchangeable between model generations? / Chris
  6. An update: After charging the battery I put it in the car again and it started without any issues. However - I only got about 12.6V at idle, so clearly I had a charging issue. Revving the car made the voltage increase though, but not to desired levels. I therefore ordered a new alternator from Germany, but after waiting a couple of days I got a message from the seller that it was no longer in stock. So i decided to buy one at Lexus instead, and also paid them to change it for me (I currently have no garage and the weather here in Sweden was not "outdoor-mechanic-friendly"). This set me back £590, but the car now works perfectly. For future readers: This video was excellent in describing the process of changing the alternator:
  7. Hi! I purchased a 2008 GS300 about two months ago and so far I'm very pleased with my purchase. However, a couple of days ago my car died on me and left me stranded on an airport (not very fun). What happened was that the "Check Charging System" as well as the "Battery Warning" came on when on idle, and after turning the car off (stupid) it wouldn't start again. I bought a new battery since the one installed was the one that came with the car originally, and voilá the problem went away. However today the same issue emerged with the new battery. Scenario: When turned off the battery read 12.0 V. Starting it and keeping it at idle made the "Check Charging System" light go on. Revving the car made it go away though. As of writing this I'm charging my new battery, but with a feeling that my alternator might have gone bad? I presume that I still should be getting 14+V at idle if my alternator would be working correctly? And if the issue would be the alternator - is this a job that could be recommended as a DIY? I replace my oil, filters and the occasional brake caliper by myself but have never changed an GS300 alternator before. (it looks quite tight down there in the engine bay...). Thanks in advance! Best Regards Chris from Sweden
  8. Steve

    Welcome to Europe's Leading Lexus Club! Please Enjoy!