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Tomtit

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Tomtit last won the day on November 1 2022

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  • First Name
    Richard
  • Lexus Model
    LS 430, SC430
  • Year of Lexus
    2002
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Lancashire
  • Interests
    Classic Cars

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  1. http://lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/139145-rx-300-water-ingress/ I hope this works. Never done it before !
  2. I cured the leaks on my wife's RX300. See my post dated 24 February 2023.
  3. I have read that leaving the keys in the microwave is also effective.
  4. The workshop manual does not tell us how to do this job. I had to work it out for myself. Here is what is involved:- 1. Remove air intake, disconnect MAF sensor and remove the complete air box. This will give you room to work. 2. Undo the nuts securing the tensioner. You cannot remove the tensioner yet because the alternator is in the way. 3. Undo the nuts and bolt securing the alternator. You cannot remove the alternator yet because the power steering pump pulley is in the way. 4. Remove the power steering pump pulley. I had to wedge a chisel through one of the pulley holes to hold the pulley. It needed a long bar to undo the nut. The pulley wheel needed a lot of persuasion from behind with a screwdriver before it came free. 5. Move the alternator out of the way. 6. You cannot move the tensioner yet because the plastic cover (shown with a label in the second picture) prevents this. You cannot remove the plastic cover until you have removed the timing belt cover. 7. You can now breathe a sigh of relief and remove the tensioner. You may also ask yourself why you did not get your mechanic to do the job. 8. Reassembly is a reverse of what you have just done. Torque figures for the alternator fixings are 39 Nm and 43 Nm for the P/S pump pulley. 9. There may be an easier way, but I am not a trained mechanic. I just wanted others to benefit from my experience.
  5. That's a pity. The workshop manual has a list of trouble codes and areas to check.
  6. For the sake of £24 I took a chance and ordered an aftermarket clock spring. I fitted it today and had to improvise as the centre hole was too small to fit over the steering column. I got there in the end and the horn is working again. Thank you for the information.
  7. George and Steve. Thank you for the replies. I wanted to check the horn switch because the workshop manual said to do that. I found a good earth at plenty of positions on the steering column. I've had the car 4 years and there has never been a 10 amp fuse for the horn in the engine bay fusebox. The connection is there but the fuse is missing. The horn has still worked nevertheless, until now. The wiring diagram shows 2 horn circuits, one of which is for the security system and has a 7.5 amp fuse in the driver's footwell. This fuse is intact and there is power at the fuse connection. I also found power at the 10 amp point in the fusebox. With nothing to lose, I put a 10 amp fuse in and the horn worked. Perhaps only one of the horns is working, but at least the car is road legal again. I might investigate further if the rain stops. If I discover anything interesting I will post it.
  8. The horns have stopped working. The fuses and relay are OK, and the horns work when given a 12 volt supply from the battery. My next step is to check the horn switch under the steering wheel pad for continuity. I have a copy of the manual for the USA market, but the connector on my car (a British 52 plate LS430) is different and the wiring colours do not correspond. I have attached a copy of the manual page. The second image down shows the connector with 6 segments in a horizontal line. (It may be the first image ; the image is only showing half of the page on my draft post and it is upside down. I am not into this technology and would rather use a spanner). I have attached a photo of the connector on my car which is different. There are yellow, brown and black coverings going into the connector. If anyone has a copy of the British workshop manual showing how to check for continuity I would appreciate a look at the relevant page. Thank you.
  9. I intend to keep the car and saw this as an investment. I may not be fit enough to crawl around under the car at a later date. With new driveshafts I also got the benefit of new bearings and rubber boots, so I won't have to worry about these wearing out. I think the driveshafts were about £280 including postage from Rockauto.
  10. If you had any doubts you were right not to go ahead. Another one will turn up. Bide your time and get the right car. I used to change my car every year until I got the LS430. Now I don't want to part with it.
  11. I used to have judder at the pedal when braking at low speeds. The castellations on the rear reluctor rings were badly worn. New driveshafts complete with reluctor rings solved it.
  12. I hope my post was useful. For anyone wishing to source their own parts, the VSV was £55.12 from Amayama (genuine Toyota part) and the gaskets were £33.14 for the pair from Rockauto.
  13. Pete. Thank you. I have ordered one.
  14. Thank you Colin. I don't mind paying extra for something that will last. I will order some.
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