Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


napstr007

Members
  • Posts

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Profiles

Forums

Events

Store

Gallery

Tutorials

Lexus Owners Club

Gold Membership Discounts

Lexus Owners Club Video

News & Articles

Posts posted by napstr007

  1. On 12/3/2020 at 12:38 PM, Tyre Tread said:

    I had similar last year and the general consensus was "battery failing!".

    As the battery was the original Panasonic from 2007  (12 years old) I changed it and ... no difference.

    Further investigation revealed it to be the upstream O2 sensor on left bank. I changed both and its all been good since.

    I'm not saying it's not the battery or charging system as the symptoms aren't the same (don't remember airbag light coming on but the check engine light and stability control lights definitely did)  but its worth doing a bit more investigation before condemning anything.

    However, if you want to eliminate the battery by changing it (and if your battery is over 10 years old then probably not a bad call anyway) . Idid lots of research on best battery and Panasonic came out best BUT they handed over manufacture of their car batteries to Yuasa a couple of years ago so I bought a Yuasa 068 from GSF Car parts while using one of their discount codes it came out at £82.47 with 4 year guarantee. Same battery today on GSF using current discount code (SAFE60) comes out at £78.99.

    https://www.gsfcarparts.com/971na0260

    Good luck and let us know how you get on.

     

     

     

     

    On 12/3/2020 at 8:59 AM, rich1068 said:

    As my learn'd colleagues have said above, alternator. Had a very similar thing the other week on my LS. 

     

     

    On 12/3/2020 at 8:43 AM, is200 Newbie said:

    As Linas said above, check with an OBD2 reader - it could be a fault that's pending and not yet recorded in ecu. Could possibly be something like the O2 sensors starting to fail, not quite failed yet so reporting an issue and then reverting back to running properly. 70k was the usual time in mileage that the sensors would pack in... And also mentioned, could be battery, usual life is around 8 to 10 years. Do you have the original battery still in (Panasonic make?)

     

    On 12/3/2020 at 12:16 AM, Herbie said:

    As above, check battery and alternator:


    33436522_batterycharge.thumb.jpg.d516537c05f7d43abcb853fa74ea308a.jpg

     

    On 12/2/2020 at 10:41 PM, chr15gb said:

    Two things spring to mind:

    1. Electrical oddities are often due to a failing battery. My old BMW used to go crazy, Xmas dash lights, wipers coming on, interior lights coming on etc.
    Give it a good charge and see what happens

    2. Alternator output. Check with a multimeter across the battery terminals. With the engine running you should read 13.5 - 14.5v.
    If a Voltage Regulator fails, it will output close to 16v so the electricals throw a fit.

    Thank you all my friends for your time and advice. So I bought a OBD 2 and plugged it in. Drove it for a while yesterday till the lights came on, scanned and found NOTHING!! Crap. 

    Now time to get the Battery tested I guess, and the alternator output. 

    Or, 

    I think I'll just leave it till something fails eventually. I just got a major service done for like £1k. If something does fail, AA to the rescue, and I'm paying for their parts thingy anyway. 

  2. So I am having this weird issue on my 05 SE. 66k miles. 

    Sometimes, not in any particular time or place, but while driving around town, all the dash lights will light up including the warning and airbag lights. The screen says 'Check Vice 

    Funny thing is that everything works just fine including the PS. The moment I restart the car, all lights go away and it's normal.

    It just came back from a major service and they said the car had no error codes registered. They however said they did a sonography thing where they check for noises and frequencies and said that the alternator was making a little noise but nothing major as of now. 

    Thought if you guys know more about this?

    Thanks. 

  3. 39 minutes ago, Texas said:

    Get all the brake calliper slide pins cleaned up and greased ASAP as a first action after getting a new to you IS250 ( as this job is not in any Lexus service schedule) and redo it every year as a minimum. While in there you can check level of meat on pads and clean everything else up, quite a satisfying job if you are not rushed!

    Yes, thanks for the tip. I will contact a independent service guy near me and get it done soon. 

    • Like 1
  4. On 9/27/2020 at 6:17 PM, Mr Vlad said:

    Hi Jonny. They're asking £6200? I'd offer 5750 stating the issues with the car. Oh the panel gaps look ok. Theyre just like the gaps on my 2007 is250. Good luck pal in your purchase. If you have any doubts tho then don't despair. There will always be other is250's that turn up.

     

    On 9/27/2020 at 5:49 PM, Spacewagon52 said:

    The car is from Northern Ireland (Black one) apart from the steering issue mentioned - but that was back at 35,000 - the MOT history looks fine. It seems a good price but I would want 12 months MOT not four months?

    Just my opinion. You will need to factor in the exhaust at some point in the future. If you like the colour go for it. That age of car - I have just bought same vintage - will have some issues that will need to be attended to. If it is under your max budget then you have a little money besides to sort any annoying issues that might pop up.

    Finally got a late 2005 IS250 SE with 65000 miles on it, paid just over 3500 for it. The body and Interior were in really nice condition and No advisories on MOT throughout its life. Seems to have been a Loaner/Demo car (at least that's the story the seller said). 

    Drives smooth on the highway. When I reverse, the brakes make noise, and in really slow maneuvering, when i apply brakes slowly while turning left, the steering runs to that side, I think its the sticky brakes, will get it done on the next service as the rear rotors have anyway developed a lip. 

    Just observed a very odd thing. I drove it down after buying it for about 200KM and then once I was back home at the garage I stopped and put it into reverse and all the lights on the dash lit up like an Xmas tree. Everything was still running and all... Stopped the car and started it back up and it was normal again. (????) Did not happen again till now, but will keep an eye out. 

  5. 4 minutes ago, Texas said:

    The 250 exhaust was mild steel from the factory as opposed to stainless steel,admittedly very heavy gauge and this accounts for the very quite nature of the car, a SS system would allow a lot more noise to escape as it would be made with a far thinner gauge material, That exhaust looks very much in the same condition as mine and unless its actually leaking anywhere then it should not be a worry, yes it will go eventually because it will rust and the favourite site is near the crutch of the 'Y' section, but it may just look a lot worst than you think.

    Also could be a possible bargaining point!

    Thanks for that. I am basing my buying decision on it. 

    How much would it cost to replace the exhaust if needed at some point. 

  6. 1 hour ago, Mr Vlad said:

    Looks a very good car. Advertised correctly as a SE I. As for the exhaust look on ebay. There's a very good rear section for a very good price.

     

    16 hours ago, scudney said:

    To be honest it is to be expected of an 11 year old car

    The body work and Everything was good. I noticed that the panel gaps or edges near the bonnet and fender area were a little off but I guess that is expected. I took pics however. 

    The deal breaker was when I took a look under the car rear. Take a look at it for yourself, maybe you guys would have some feedback. 

    https://freeimage.host/i/2c46hJ
    https://freeimage.host/i/2c4gmg
    https://freeimage.host/i/2c44Ia
    https://freeimage.host/i/2c4UkF
    https://freeimage.host/i/2c4L1p
    https://freeimage.host/i/2c4t2I
    https://freeimage.host/i/2c4QrN
    https://freeimage.host/i/2c4sBR
    https://freeimage.host/i/2c4bkX
    https://freeimage.host/i/2c4mpn

    Regards. 

     

  7. 37 minutes ago, m4rkw said:

    I’ve never owned an IS but I’ve owned two E46s and you’re right they do start falling apart at higher miles. A Lexus should be a lot more durable if it’s been taken care of.

    Look for the usual stuff, evidence of regular (not extended) oil changes and evidence of transmission fluid and filter change, ideally it should be done about every 50k. Suspension components may start to wear out at that mileage so make sure it’s all nice and tight, check MOT history and look for evidence of rectification of any noted advisories. Check all around and underneath for rust. Check AC blows ice cold at the max cold setting and that any fans at the front spin when it’s on (my RX has two, not sure if the IS does, they should both spin). Check for cambelt change if it has one. Check the tyres, premium brands are a sign it’s been treated well, budget tyres mean it’s been run on a shoe-string. Check DOT codes on the sidewalls, tyres older than 6 years are generally considered unsafe and will need replacing. Check all electrics work, windows etc. Make sure the transmission shifts properly, doesn’t slip, no delayed engagement, reverse works and that it goes into lockup at high speed. Check the brake pad wear if you can, brake firmly from 70mph and make sure there’s no movement in the steering wheel.

    Its probably well worth paying someone to do a pre-purchase inspection but you can filters cars a fair bit yourself in advance. Better to spend £100 on a car you don’t buy than 5 grand on one you buy that has an expensive repair looming.

    Mark

    Thank you for the detailed post, I do intend to pay someone to check it out. 

  8. 2 minutes ago, Lex_1988 said:

    Hi, 

    I had a 2006 IS250 se-l which I bought for £5k and funnily enough I also owned an E46 325ci. The abs module in that bmw drove me mad. 

    Over 2 years of ownership the is250 was uber reliable. All electrics, engine and gearbox never gave me any issues. 

    For the first year I made short 10mins journeys and after a change in job went to commuting for an hour. It did both really well. The is250 is such a relaxed motorway cruiser and I still miss the smooth gearbox and engine. Perfect combo. I just made sure to service it on time and at 60k miles it should have had a spark plugs change as part of the full service. 

    Only negative was that the 17inch alloys corroded badly. Not sure if this was an issue on the 18inch alloys. 

    No idea on aftermarket headunits however if you go for an se-l it will likely come with the upgraded mark levinson sound system which I found very good but I'm not an audiophile.

    As your looking for a car from 2007 onwards, it should have the upgraded satnav/mark levinson that allows you to stream music over Bluetooth from your phone. Mine being a 2006 meant I had to use an aux cable to my phone.

     One last thing, if you do get the IS250 always make sure the fuel filler cap is on properly after refuelling. It should click close. If you don't it will throw an error code on the dash. Easy fix of course (switch off engine and tighten the cap) but can be alarming when your used to supreme reliability. 

    Hope this helps  

    Thanks for the tips, helps a lot. I too had the same E46 2001 with the dreaded P0171/4 codes which pretty much stayed with me till I owned it LOL! 

    Anyway, so what do you think about Here ? Is this a ok deal? 

  9. Hi friends, 

    After a lot of thought, I have decided to get a used IS250 here in the UK as i was looking for a car for about 4-5k (Automatic) which will be used to teach my wife how to drive ( learning) and also I could use to do all errands. (I don't need one for work anymore, thanks COVID) Thought I may use it occasionally for highway runs. 

    Looking at autotrader and FB, I could see that IS250 models (2007-2010) which are about 80-110k miles are available for the price that I am looking for. Some even SE-L models though they are priced a little higher than £5K.Like Here.

    I was hoping you guys here could give me some light over a few questions I had. 

    1. What is the current market price for such cars right now? How much can I bargain without offending the seller? I just want an honest price that's all, not hunting for the best deal out there.

    2. If I get one with about 90-100K miles, what are some issues I need to look out for and things I need to replace? I had an BWM E46 with 125K miles and the junker was falling apart everywhere. 

    3. Can I replace the stock head unit with an android auto head unit, any quality recommendations? 

×
×
  • Create New...