CypressPhil

I found a good solution for carrying muddy bikes inside the car… use the wife’s car 😆

Sounds like the bonding has failed on the windscreen. Ask a garage to spray soapy water around the edges of the screen and then go round the inside with an air hose. Anywhere it bubbles up will be where the water is getting in. A good windscreen fitter should be able to remove and refit it without breaking.

Wow, that’s a crazy amount! Makes me want to fit some of those ram bars that they fit on Police cars in the states. They’d also be handy for dispensing instant justice on people who don’t merge in turn!

Agreed - the way I see it is if you change your car regularly and aren’t fussed about owning it, then a lease might be right for you. If you want the option of owning the car, but want a low monthly repayment, then a PCP might appeal. If you intend to keep the car longer term, then a personal loan will likely give you lower total interest costs, but a higher monthly repayment. If you’re wealthy or a criminal, then cash is probably the way to go! So it’s dependent on various factors and what matters most to the individual at any given point in time. Finally, if you’re a Baller, then “never buy a depreciating asset. If it flies, floats, f***s or drives, lease it”.

Mine is pretty much identical. 65 plate with 59k. Same model, spec, colour, dealer history etc. According to auto trader, it’s worth £10,210 part ex and £12,390 private sale. Prices have taken a tumble recently.

2015 IS300h F Sport 59k owned for 4 years. Air conditioning condenser £650 12v battery £140 Failed rear screen bonding £100 AC has needed another re-gas, so wouldn’t be surprised if the condenser has had another whack! Might have to look into the mesh that Maxz suggested!

I had this problem. Turned out to be a failed bond on the rear screen. Ask a garage to spray soapy water all around the edges and then go around the inside with an air hose. Anywhere that bubbles up will be a gap in the seal/bond. A good windscreen fitter should be able to remove and refit the screen without it breaking, but there is a slim chance of it breaking if there is any weakness in the glass. If it does, you can’t claim on your windscreen policy, so would have to fork out for a new screen 😬. Alternatively, just leave a copy of Harry & Megan’s book on the parcel shelf and wait for someone to put a brick through the rear screen; then claim on your windscreen policy as vandalism would be insured 👍

Thanks Colin. I already had that post saved and borrowed a dremel on the strength of it. I hadn’t however, anticipated not being able to get the cutting disc in there to make the cut. I’d never even noticed the crease in the bodywork until I’d removed all the trim to make the cut in all honesty! In hindsight, I now see and agree with you that it doesn’t look like a cutting disc was used on those photos. curious what bit was used and how other people have done it. I think a few have from when I researched it, but details of how are limited.

Hi everyone, So today I set out to cut a square hole through the boot lid of my 65 plate F Sport to fit a genuine Lexus parking camera, which I’d obtained from a breakers. step 1: tested the camera using the existing connection and it worked plug and play. All good. step 2: obtained a replacement piece of trim with the cut out for the camera and painted it to match the car. All good so far. step 3: removed all trim to cut the hole. Made a template and taped it all up. This is where I’m stuck! How have people managed to cut the hole without damaging the rest of the boot?! I’d intended to drill the corners, then use a dremel cutting disc to join the dots so to speak. But the bottom is almost recessed under a fold in the bodywork, so you can’t get the disc in there without damaging elsewhere. Have people used a burr tool to make the cut rather than a disc? Or did you use something else? All advice most welcome!

Lexus dealer once told me my tyre tread depth had increased from the previous year’s service 😆, so I second the visual guesstimate opinion. They also told me I needed a new set of rears, but the tyre size on their quote was for the fronts. Good job I didn’t “approve the work”. Off to a proper tyre shop I went.

First thing to check is the connector. Pop the trim off in your boot and have a look. If you’ve got the connector, it should just be plug and play 👍 I got a camera from a breakers for £150 and it was plug and play with no software updates. I managed to find the replacement bit of trim on eBay for £30. The scary bit is cutting a square hole in your boot 😬. I might do it this weekend if I get time. If you’ve got the connector, get a camera from someone who accepts returns. That way you can then plug it in to see if it works with no risk. Then think about getting the other bit of trim and cutting the hole later.

You want the denso wiper blades. I second the view that they’re OEM as far as I’m aware. Don’t get the Bosch blades, as they’re rubbish! The Denso were out of stock when I needed some, so got the Bosch. They’re a lousy fit (don’t clip in securely) and drag across the screen at times. I’ll be swapping them for Denso soon. I use Lexus Norwich for servicing, which are now owned by St Leonard’s Motor Group. They’re OK, but the service was much better back when Inchcape and then Dingles had the franchise imo. Although I begrudge paying nearly £600 and £300 for what’s essentially an oil and filter change, I personally do it for the peace of mind of the Relax Warranty. It would be Sod’s Law that something major would go wrong if I went to an independent! In the past, I’ve used Roy’s Motor Company in Norwich for repairs to my original IS and RX. They are Toyota/Lexus specialists. Many years ago, they had the Toyota franchise in the area. I’ve always found Ian (I think the Tech’s name is) to be really knowledgeable and they’re far cheaper on labour than the main dealer.

It looks fairly straight forward John. I’ll share what I know in exchange for the piece of trim I need 😜 The camera itself is just a couple of clips and unplugging the connecting wire in the boot, but you’ll need to remove a piece of trim on the boot lid that covers it. I’ll see if I can attach some screenshots of the repair manual for you… I tried to put them in the right order, but it’s remove the cover inside the boot. Ignore the bit about the hinge covers. Then it’s the rear light assemblies, followed by what looks like the number plate lights which will give you access to the screws for the trim. Once the trim is off, it will give you access to the camera. Disengage the 2 clips and then unplug it.

Hi mate, this is really useful info. Thanks for sharing! I’ve been thinking about doing this for a while. Can I ask where you managed to get the piece of trim with the cut out for the camera from? I’ve never been able to find one on eBay or anywhere else for that matter.

Yea, a good tug normally gets it off to be fair 😱😆