adamhearn

PS5’s aren’t exactly marketed for a slow hatchback and are priced accordingly. I have cross climate 2’s which are equally as expensive 🙄 Longevity and road comfort/noise would be my focus points. Obviously difficult to quantifiably rate given different cars, roads, driving styles.

You can look to something like this https://bavarian-automotive.co.uk/products/lexus-wireless-apple-carplay-and-android-auto-mmi-retrofit-interface?variant=42728665481466 No one will want to fix it should it go wrong 🙄🤪

Ha ha, sounds like he wasn’t ready to adjust to an EV.

Really there’s just no comparison as they are so different vehicles. Jaguars are not known for reliability so as long as you go in with open eyes, enjoy your choice!

Be careful with Obsidium as I’ve read that that colour code is different between the US and UK. Any good repair shop should be able to paint to the correct colour code.

Looks expensive for what it is… a posh Yaris. Don’t see the point of all these SUV proportions myself so definitely not one for me.

Ideally you should not have paid on picking up your car without some assurance (in writing/email) that the situation would be resolved/considered. At the very least you should have spoken to the dealer principal. Wipers and (indicator) bulbs are gravy train items for garages (dealer or independent). It’s pretty disappointing but probably one to chalk up to experience - In future leave a note denying any unauthorised remedial work.

Yes. It’s the small 12V that is flat. Entry to the boot is possible from the car. From memory you can mechanically open the boot once there.

Diagnosis is always expensive but so is randomly replacing parts 🤪 Could be the 12V battery - it’s a tiny unit in the CT and issues show up when it’s cold. Expensive from dealer (£131).

No, not everyone has got a code reader but all garages should do 👍

However, the following should be heeded: Ideally retro-fitted DRL should be installed such that they activate automatically when the engine starts and switch off when headlamps are turned on. If this is not the case then you must ensure that you manually turn DRL off at night as they will cause dazzle and discomfort to others if used in low ambient lighting conditions. Taken from https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/daytime-running-lights/daytime-running-lights

This provides positional information for DRLs: https://www.whatdotheyknow.com/request/placement_requirements_for_retro

You have not specified what exactly is your difficulty so it's difficult to suggest options. If it's reach then there are adjusters (in car or on headlight depending on spec). If it's positioning then maybe the lights need adjustment resulting from accident damage/poor reinstallation? If it's brightness then apart from changing the bulbs there's little than can be done. Bulb replacement is a minefield of marketing bull/illegal options. Can you fit lights in the grille? No, I don't think the UK law allows that; I can't recall the specifics but you have to have front lights spaced apart. You also cannot use fog lights unless visibility is impaired [by fog].

What exactly are you trying to solve? Dipped beam reach/spread/positioning? The CT has reasonable lights as standard.

Surely it’s a phone/Bluetooth connection/configuration issue? Maybe the Bluetooth stack on the CT and phone have issues? Try another phone?