Pahino.IS200

Hello guys as you might remember i bought in is200 with 370k on the clock and its burning a bit of oil dont know if is coming from the valves or cylinder walls but since i dont have the tools for a full engine rebuild i was thinking on going on a higher grade oil like a 10w40 or even 15w40 right now I'm running 5w30 which is pretty thing for such a high mileage engine whats your opinion? i see a bit of bluesmoke when i floor it only but I'm guessing that could be the reason why my cats failed but thats another story, outside of that no weird noises or anything only a bit of that bluesmoke when floor it? What do you think? I'll do a full rebuild on the future when this pandemic gets better since ill do the job my self.

Could be. But anyways hope he enjoy the vehicle he chooses, and changing subject ill be doingna full series of the is200 video maintenance for any type of work that has to be donde in any vehicle as the car requires and also personal mods due to my personal taste, the first one i did is the explanation and detailed procedure for a water spray injection cleaning for the combustion chamber. If you have any questions or request feel free to do so, ill be uploading the videos as i can get the money for the parts.

Its a plane and ruff video, i uploaded almost like i taped it.

About the question, no the is200 is an indirect injection, it injects the fuel on top of both intake valves. I did a very basic video showing the process and explaining all the steps to take and recommendations to get the best result, is being uploaded as we speak so ill post it here in a couple of minutes once it's ready.

Sorry for the delayed response, so yes i had a 2009 honda crv with absolutely all the extras bc it was the last one remaining on the dealer so had no option plus gave me a reasonable discount, however the vehicle came with bad brakes from factory, the dealer resurfaced the rotors twice but the problem came back a month later, had a lot o vibration coming through the brake pedal plis the hole vehicle was also vibrating, aat the end, the factory did a full brake replacement, calipers, rotors, pads, brake like and abs assembly, all except the brake booster and after that the vibration never came back but the brakes felt soft still like if there was air on the line which i did several brake flush my self and it never changed anything, but long story short, i had an accident with that vehicle, on which I lost control of it in a corner on which the car for some reason activated the EBD and made things worst, the vehicle ended as a total lost ill upload the picture so uoy can see, then a good friend of my told me something i will never forget, honda has an excellent engine, not to say one of the best, but when it comes to brakes, has a lot to learn from his rivals. Total vehicle lost, and purchased a 2011 Hyundai santa fe the 2.2 CRDI it was a change like day and night, yes the Hyundai felt a bit cheaper in the materials inside the vehicle mainly plastic everything but it was a hole world of difference when talking about the gearbox, and brakes, way much better i cant compare the fuel economy bc the santa fe was a diesel, same horsepower but double the torque plus an extra gear, it was marvelous. So in resume I wont back to honda, and if i buy one, i would be the accord Euro R the 20 valve engine which is the type R engine. And about subject, my parents are now toyota fanatics, but i have always liked lexus and had the opportunity to get this is200 and didn't though it twice

Im more than glad to explain it to you, later ill post the full procedure in detail and i got and excellent result

Check my post might help you https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/126056-is200-engine-hesitation-when-hot/?tab=comments#comment-1149912

Great post but in fact lexus are easier to work since they are toyos in disguise, the only different is honda pushes their engines a bit harder than toyota, but at the cost of reliability if you are the type of person that drives close to redline all the time, but if you are going to granny shift it, both are pretty reliable, but i still go for lexus, i had hondas before, and will never look back.

I'll go for the is, as you said better trim and finish, however it's actually easier to work on the engine bay of an is than an accord you have more space and the beams 1gfe its pretty easy to teardown way more easier I'm a mechanic myself

Yes check for the cat, all of them, go to my profile and check my posts it might help you

A must to check, the pre catalytic and the main catalytic for any clogged of broken bits. If you have a cheap obd connector like me with the 5 buck bt mini check all the sensors fueltrim in long and short trims, any thinking noise and the status of the water pump, timing belt and alternator, i think that those are the main thinks to check. If you can lift it and check all the bushings and joints, ohh and any oil leak. But the car it self its kinda bulletproof.

Yeah it could be normal at this mileage but this car was the one in the million, the previous and second owner of the vehicle is an ex rally driver so he took an excellent care of the vehicle in all the aspects even so that the car is running the second clutch set from factory and there's plenty of grip on it, my only disappointment is that is an open diff but besides that, after doing precats and main cat delete because one of the precats disintegrated clogged the main one and other thing the previous owner kinda babied the engine so there was a ton buildup on the piston head and intake manifold so did a water mist cleaning, injector cleaner on more one which ended clogging the main cat to the point that the car wouldn't rev pass 4k after a minute of turning it on and the vacuum would drop almost to 0 by just touching the acc pedal, so took the y pipe out before the main cat since the car was with no precats for a month or so and walla, all the problems were gone including codes for engine running rich in both banks and the p0420. Soo in the car is perfect in everything including compression, fuel pressure and all, only thing out of normal is the temp shown by the iat ordered a new sensor if problem persists i will relocate the sensor, but i have driven a couple of is200 in my life and none of them is as fast as this one even did a 0-60 to check how good was my but dyno and wasn't disappointed, got a time of 8.89. I'm amaze by the state of the car in general plus I only paid 1,500€ for it and the only reason the previous owner sold it to me because he noticed that the car was getting slower progressively and after a couple of his friends couldn't find the problem he just gave up, and one of the mechanics disconnected the o2 from the main cats so no CEL will go on in q short time, he even said that he regretted selling it after having it since 2000 bc he thought it would be something worse like a major fault so I'm glad I ignored the high mileage of the car.

So in case anybody is wondering if I found the solution, and the answer is yes. So lest take the long run. Firts had p0420 issues with cats. Too the ex manifold and opened the precats, bank 1 only 1/3 of it was remaining, bank 2 was complete. So decided to take both out and reseal the cat chamber, issue got solve for about a month, then decided to do a water cleaning of the engine, the car got even better, but after about 2 weeks after that was done the hesitation came back, and this time was also making the revs cut lower and lower every day until it couldn't go past 2.5k with a big time jerking, no power and when revving it on neutral it wouldn't past fro 4.3 or even 3.9k with engine cold and hot respectively however there was a lot of steam coming from the tailpipe but barely any flow of it, so today i decided to remove the main cat since when removed the precats the main was full of debris i thought i took it out all of it but seems like no, so took the mid pipe out with the main cat and just to check if this was the issue, turned the car on and press the acc pedal, noisi as hell but that's to be expected but the engine came back to like, revving pretty fast and easily and got all the power back, so right now I'm waiting for my neighbor to arrive so he can lend me one of his soldering machine and a angler grinder so im doing the same and take the guts out of the main cat and later order a new full exhaust system, also got the codes for system too rich on both banks and checked for any backum leak and none so if anyo e is havi g this issues check that

either you have an air leak as mentioned before or the tps is out of position making the iddle go high, that happened to me and it was because of the TPS so you could check that out.

so to be short this is the issue that i have since i bought the car, Car start and runs fine, no idle problem whatsoever it doesn't matter if the car is hot or cold it will start right away, but this is the issue, when the car is cold if i floor it will accelerate like a champ no matter the gear or the rpm, but once the car reach its normal operating temperature it would get significantly slower, for example i put 3rd gear and floor it and you can hear and feel the engine playing with the timing and hesitates like if you were pressing and depressing the acc pedal like playing with it, you can hear the sound of the engine changes but the revs hangs like if you were doing nothing, if you push the pedal progressively as you gain revs it will run until about 4.9rpm or maybe a bit more but hangs there with no power like if there was a cut like when you hit the rev limit, but this only happens when hot, if you do the same on cold it's like a rocket no matter the speed of gear, but once its warm you lose like 50% or even more of the power. NO CODES. Temp gauge works perfectly and you can hear the fan kicking when needed so for the fan switch seems to work fine, and if i have the ac on let say i want to overtake in the highway i'm in 6th gear i have to turn off the ac compressor, down shift to 4th or even 3rd gear if im in a low speed and have to floor the car but the revs hangs and the engine jerks a bit and the revs wont past from 5kRpm, is this a bad temp sensor? if so i'm guessing it will be the one on the engine block? since the gauge on the dash works flawless and the fan also works. any other ideas? the car has 372k and did a full cleaning of the engine including adding a injector cleaning and so but this issue only appears when hot. Any ideas will be really appreciated.

Hello again guys so to finish this post i just uploaded a video on youtube with a brief explanation of one of the things ill be doing with the car, please check it out and any idea or request will be greatly welcomed. Thanks for your help, support and future suggestions.

Issue fixed finally, after setting both TPS at the factory location yay Hope if anyone has this issue in the future can use this as a reference.

Here are the codes

Sorry to hear that, but first question, did you checked all the seals of the tranny before installing it? Is this a new tranny? How many miles are on it if isn't new? And have you checked underneath of it to see where is coming from, if it from the bell housing or the outup shaft? Im not a Lexus expert nor even a toyota, however I'm a VW/Audi technician so i do have plenty of knowledge and experience but first time Lexus owner with the same car so I'm learning as i go, already dismantled and reassembled the top en of my car several times since i bought it, i also did a pre cat delete my self and i definitely recommend it, it feel and sounds like a hole different car. Check my post if you can l.

New update, did a battery removal again, left it out for 15 mins and reinstalled again, this time when i cycled the key turn it to run position but didn't crank the engine for about 5 mins after that turn it off took the key out and cycled back on this time i did turn over the engine, car starts and now the obd can connect but the iddle its so low that the car after 3 minutes disabled the ETB so now I'm going to take the tb out again to change the position on the TPS which seem to be too low, so i think my remaining issue is that will post in a couple of minutes to see it this was the remaining issue. And the codes that the obd read was only related to the TPS being too low so the engine turn off the ETB to rise the rpm so i think this is the solution, set TPS on factory position.

Stiĺl no luck, i turn the car on, the tb works for a minute but it idle supper low then CEL comes on, track light flashes and then the tb stops working, the idles goes almost to 2k, still no connection with the obd port but it does get energy and the device connects to my phone but it wont connect to the ecu i dont know what more to do, guys really i need help i tried everything cleaned the ecu in depth so after that the car works fine then it does what i mentioned before i have no clue no blown fuses or anything please some help.

So again it fixed the problem for a minute or so at leats this time the tb worked fine but still not connecting to the obd and i dont know why

Same for me plus it was one of my dream cars in terms of the mythical nfs games when we had the first need for speed underground 2 with the is300 and now finally i got it is a 200 but just for now jejejeje but this one is coming with me to the grave.

Nice choice hope you enjoy it, so far im new in the group and people here are kinda shy, they read but barely a couple members answered hope we get more answers from the rest of the forum bc that's the point of being in this club. Again nice ride hope you can enjoy it for long.

Checked all the fuses and all good but the issue was still there, so something told me to check the ecu directly bc of the previous comment just in case to see if there was any problem with the capacitors or something and for my surprise theres oil in the ecu plug so it might have been shorting it out now i will clean it let me show it