Walus

The problem returned this morning. This time however it is very much clear as to which sensor is faulty. Will have to replace it. This us a third Lexus that I owned that needs a new parking sensor. Very disappointing.

There is a reason why silicone products are more expensive. They are designed not to react with other materials. On the other hand while considerably cheaper, vaseline is petroleum based and as far as I know rubber and petroleum and it’s derivatives don’t go well together. As an alternative, I could recommend this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Liqui-Moly-3312-Silicon-Grease-Clear/dp/B00295DBQE/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2JKAFB1ZC3AYU&keywords=silicone+grease&qid=1668090630&sprefix=silicone+%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-11

It is very good indeed, and yes I had a Honda. I think I got it on Amazon but they should have the same only branded at Honda dealerships. Yeah, it is expensive but worth it imo.

Thanks lads. I’ve Shin-Etsu silicone grease that I use for the seals around doors etc. will use that on the sensors.

The error is intermittent so far. I have noticed that when there is no surface water gathering at the bottom of the sensor’s membrane, there is no error. Need time to see if that is just a coincidence or an actual reason for this problem.

I haven’t used silicon as I’m not sure which sensor is triggering the error. I recon the issue is to do with the two front centre ones as they are held in a different bezel and are not completely flush with it. I think that the error could be caused not so much because of faulty sensor but because of faulty reading as droplets of water interfere with the membrane of the sensor. I don’t have the time to pop the bumper cover out and take out the sensors but I’ll keep an eye on it and report what I find out.

Same problem here MY19. The message comes up "Parking Assist Unavailable, Clean Parking Assist Sensor", which I obviously did and it reoccurred a couple of times since. There is no paint protection (other than wax) applied to the car. Since it does indicate which of the parking sensors is faulty it is difficult to de-bug. I have had a number of bad parking sensors that I replaced myself (one in CT and two in RX), but this time it just flags the whole system error and I cannot tell which one is the faulty one. Does anybody know what causes this and how to fix it? Other than taking the car to the dealer, obviously.

I have charged the battery with my ctek and after taking off the surface charge it reads 12.6V. Looks like it’s capacity is around 85% at this stage. Should do fine for another 2-3 years.

One observation I made after replacing the 12V battery in Rx was that the charge level was typically sitting around 12.2-12.3V. I would charge it with ctek and a week or so latter the level would drop and pretty much stay there.

On a regular day the voltage reading on my battery is 12.2V. I did about 4 hours driving yesterday, left the car overnight and checked the battery this morning. It read 12.3V. To me it seems that keeping the battery at full charge is not what the car aims at. I’m heading away for 4 weeks and I wonder what voltage would the battery be at after that period if the starting point is 12.3V. I might hook it up to ctek before leaving. Is it ok to charge it without disconnecting it from the car? I have done it in Rx, I presume there should be no issues.

I went with Falken Azenis FK 520 only a week ago. Shifted the Dunlops to the rear. Had the Azenis FK 510 on RX before and they were very good. I hope that FK 520, being a new tyre, will be at least as good. It is a brand new tyre so no reviews available, but at least is very attractively priced - I paid only 120 euros each. On the Hankooks the new Ventus Prime 4 performs very well - at least in the tyre reviews that are available online. I had Hankook Kinergy at some stage on a Honda and found them to be noisy as they were wearing down.

I wish. Out of warranty repair.

A quick update. It turns out that it was a faulty sensor that caused this issue.

A new angle on this. Does wheel rotation require reprogramming of the ECU so that it ‘learns’ new locations of the sensors? Is the system based on 4 transmitters (wheel sensors) and 4 receivers (in each wheel arch) that are paired up so that it can tell each individual wheel pressure? if that is the case a wheel swap would trigger malfunction and such an event would have to be programmed in.

Will investigate and report back the fix (hopefully). My bet is on a faulty tyre pressure sensor.