Myro

Hi there, today for a first time since i own the car, my alarm went ON after a couple of minutes when i've locked at. I have to stick in the key now to lock the car and to keep the alarm off, but i would like to resolve that issue if possible. Been hearing that there's a way to reset the alarm, but i'm not sure if that's gonna help. Nothing has been done to the car recently and the alarm just went by it self. Never had an issue before with an alarm going off like that, so if i can get any advice or help would be appreciate at. Thanks

Hi there, today i had changed the transmission oil on my Lexus GS 430 and the sump plug got rounded. It's still the original sump plug with the stamp on the back T-IV. Been looking to buy one but there's none for the transmission pan. The sump plug on the engine oil pan is 14 mm as well like the one on the transmission pan. Does anyone know if they are the same, so i can purchase at. If anyone know the size of the sump plug for the transmission pan would be great to. Thanks

Well done for you're purchase mate. Have the same one in dark Green and it's been just a joy so far for a year. Just a couple of advices, witch they gonna save you a lot with a car like this, since it's on an age. Check the radiator if it's still an original one and if it is, check you're transmission fluid to make sure of that the cooler for the transmission is not broke. Check for a leak in the trunk, where the spare tyre is( it is possible..) Careful with the antenna aerial, since it expand every time when you play the radio and the cable can easily snap. And on the last but very important, check the rest of you're fluids and do change them for a peace of mind. Especially the differential and the transmission. Overall the car is a joy to drive, smooth and picky in the same time and i'm mostly sure that you'll enjoy it. Have fun

Thanks for the info Colin, i will do so and check the connection to see witch one is causing the problem. As far as i'm aware normally is the wire which makes a bad connection with the time and from there it gives a faulty info back. If i can't find witch one it is, ill probably will change bought of them. I found them on ebay for 32 each. Hopefully they will last at least the half of the time from the original ones. I believe that could be the driver side, since i had at to disconnect the sensor to get around at and most probably the fault comes from there. Thanks again

Since the ABS sensor doesn't show a fault code, how can i see witch sensor is the fault one. The problem comes when i'm turning left only. They goes for 30 bucks now, but i don't won changing bought, since one of them is still working correct. Any idea if i can check at with a multimeter? Thanks

Hello there, recently when i start turning left my brake pedal is vibrating slightly and i'm getting that buzzing noise. I believe that should be a ABS sensor, but i don't have any warning lights on the dash. The noise comes only when i'm steering to e certain angle only, it doesn't come every time, but is annoying. Did anyone had problem like this in the pass, since i have no warning lights, i don't know if is actually the ABS sensor it self or something else. The noise comes only when i'm steering left and only when i'm keeping the brake pedal. If i slow down and then turn left without braking the noise doesn't come up. Any help will be helpful. Thanks

Good evening, I've bought recently a Yatour for my lexus(GS430 2001). It is for my car, came with the pin cable and everything, but the cable doesn't fit into the slot, where it supose to go. It's only goes half way I'll apply a pic below. When i disconnect the factory connector the navi doesn't respond almost at all. So the Yatour connector don't won to go in and when i disconnect the other one, the navi doesn't respond. Anyone with some solution would be helpful. Normaly the connector from the Yatour supposed at to fit... But it don't wonna go in, I've been using a Yatour and before on another viechle and didn't had any issue. Is it an extra cable who I'll need?

Yes it looks like it's have 5. The same what I've found everywhere. But on my gear console it's has the number 4 and it goes below. Or maybe the 5th gear is hidden... So the diagram with the numbers on my gear console its 4/3/2/L and i have 5 gear's, is that right? Is it that's how they designed or... I tryed to feel when is shifting, but is doing at too smooth and i can't notice. I'm not complaining from the shifting, just it's intresting if it's with 5 gear's where's number 5 on the gear console, or even the dashboard. Would help if someone enlighten me.

Thank you to all for the good comments, it really help. To not open another topic for another silly question, i'll ask here. My lexus is from 2001 and it's the facelift one. Everywhere where i've wrote it says 5 speed automatic transmission and i have 4... And it says that the facelift is equipped with a 5 speed one... Does anyone know anything about this? Thanks

Thank you all for the replies. Yes it is the fluid level, got me worry a little bit but it's all got well.

Yes i met the handbrake light and yes i met brake discs as well. Sorry for that. So does it have any reason why when i've worked on the front brakes got the handbrake light coming on and off?

Good afternoon, recently my front brake calipers was sticking and today i've changed the front left one and now it's fine. Took the air out from the system and when i went for a test drive everything was just fine, except that the emergency brake light was popping on and off on the dash board for a short period. Tried a couple of times to slam on the brakes and it didn't come on at all. It's coming on and off just sometimes, not all the time. My brake fluid is on the Minimum mark, didn't toped out since i'll flush the system these days. So does anyone have a clue why when i've changed the brake caliper the emergency brake light started to come on and off for a short period? When my front calipers was sticking the emergency light never came on. This is my first time when i'm noticing that. My front right caliper is still sticking a little bit, but as soon as i receive the part i'll change at straight away. Ordered new rotors and pads as well, since i've just had notice the issue, but that issue was there from quite some time... I notice the problem when i went for a front alignment, there they've told me that my front brakes are sticking and the car doesn't won to roll freely... Also the brakes and the rims was getting pretty hot as well. So a full front brake job will be perform with the fluid change by the end of the week. I just can't understand now why my emergency brake light is popping on and off...

Since I've allready opened a topic. Can someone tell me, what's that part, and his purposes please? It's buzzing every time when I'm starting the car, witch probably it's normal. But it's start buzzing when im driving aswell. Should i be worried? It's that yellow one.

I'll go to take now a hight temperature sealing and ill just transfer that plastic hose on the top to the new radiator. That's my only option. It's should be a simple process if it's done properly. I can't just block that hose with a bolt and leave at to hang around. I belive ill succeed, as long as i make the right size hole... Will be interesting, but i like challenges. Just can't understand how they selling them like that... Its a hight quality radiator and they've missed that simple hole...

It's has an another option and that is to improvise.... Cut that plastic hose from my radiator and transfer at to the new one. With the proper sealing for hight temperature should do the job? Any ideas would be great, i have to mount at and i can't return at... The radiator it's on Nissens.

Hi, I've ordered a new radiator, it cane today but it's hase something different on at. I would like to know if i can by pass at and still installed at? I'll apply pictures below from the missing component on the new radiator. Everything else it's the same... The missing part on the new radiator is the connection on the top between the radiator and the canister.

Yea that's right, but my diagnostic tool is not capable of that. So the only way how i can calibrate/reset at is when i bridge the Ts and CG pins with a wire bridge. The problem is that the VSC light is coming back after a couple of days. But i belive it will be sort at soon. I'll clear at again and if it comes back again I'll check the steering angle sensor.

Have been reading lately and have found something called-Zero Point Calibration. Since it's saying that is taking 15min around, obviously it's much more difrent then the reseting what i have been doing. I'll do that later and I'll share what happened. I'll apply a pic below as well.

Thanks Chris, I'll do those checks this weekend for sure. I came a crosse to a steering angle sensor that might be the problem and trigger the VSC light off. I remember when i was purchasing the car that I've bought the car with the fault code p1651, but the guy was mentioning something about steering angle sensor. I didn't payed attention to that since the fault code was for a diffrent thing. But anyway does it have a way how to diagnose the steering angle sensor and where exactly is located. I do actually feel the steering a bit loose, but i belive that is from my tie rods end, witch they gonna be changed this weekend. If my steering it's still kind of loose, i maid look into that steering angle sensor. Thanks

Greetings, every time so far when I've been writing something in here i was geting qucik and quality reapond as aways,for witch I'm grateful. But hers ones more i have to ask this from the topic. When I've sort out my p1651, reset the ECU, removed the VSC light's with the bridge wire on the OBD port, everything was great and after 4 day's it happen that. The VSC Off/VSC lights came on. Plugged my scanner and i didn't find any fault codes, but i notice when i was checking the vehicle the ABS light was flashing. Then the VSC/ABS lights start flashing rapidly. So far with my research I've found that it maid be a faulty ABS sensor. What i found also was that not the sensor is failing and is the wire...Anyway if it was that, i supose i should of get the VSC light straight away if it was a wire. So to head on the right direction i would love to hear some advices. That light is not going to stay on that dash... And one more thing, since when i clear the VSC light with the wire Bridge into the OBD port and it goes off for a couple of days. Is it going to be ok to do that simple procedure every time when i get the VSC light? Is it going to harm in any kind the ECU? Also I've seen that i can do the reseting of the VSC light from the engine bay, does it has any differences from where I'm doing the reseting? Any help would be appreciated alot, thanks.

Again thanks allot. It means allot to me. Yes probably ill change just the link on it's own. About the noise, it's from the passenger side only and i all ready checked every single part, witch can make noises. Im on a way of changing this weekend tie rods end, because i was able to twist them with my hand, but i dough the noise to be from an tie rod end. Anyway i've sort out my main issue witch was the famous p1651 code on my own, witch i'm proud of at, so i think that i'l get rid of that clunking noise very soon. Its just strange that i'm hearing that clunking noise not all the time, but ill keep looking until the problem is resolved. Thanks for the quick and reliable respond.

God bless you man...Thank you!

Greetings, had some knocking noises from the passenger side lately. I've checked everything and i found the problem, but i don't know how this part is called so to replace at. It's looking like a stabiliser baby link... It's connected with a metal bracket to another metal piece with some rubber inside. The noise is coming from there, it's loose and its have a little play. I can only apply a picture below in order to be recognised. It's a gs430 2001 Thanks

The pic who I've applied above with the part number 25860-46010 who you've sad is NO 1. Into description it's says that same part is NO 2. So i belive that same part should be fine. I don't know why it's comimg as part number: 25860-50121 and on the part is printed: 25860-46010

I really appreciate for you're information. Very strange because when I've send an enquiry about that part, everywhere are telling me that, that same part 25860-50121-25860-62010 is compatible with my vehicle and it gonna fit... Also when i type ine the part number: 25860-50121 its coming up the part on a couple of places and everywhere where i click its says the same: Manufacturer part number:25860-50121 and onto the part is printed: 25860-46010. So basically I'm not getting any better with my research. I've aend an inquiry about that part to lexus, hopefully they'll returnback to me with good news. But i still can't understand why it's have one part number at the description and on the part is printed diffrent one... B. T. W. On the foto who you've post at its actually visible that it is compatible with gs300/430 with engine codes:JZS160/UZS16. My engine code is: UZS161R. So it supose to fit. But that's VSV NO:1 and you're saying that i need NO:2.