BC99

Waterpump bearing? Or pulley bearing?

Mine doesn't have wires like that. You can get rear reflectors with lights in them, perhaps previous owner thought this was a way to wire them in? It's not a good way to do it though, and i would be concerned about how they are wired in if they thought putting wires through the vent was acceptable. There is a plug/grommet further up, on passenger side at least, that i imagine would be a better option than the vents if actually needed. Removing the rear bumper is very easy, just be careful to pretect the paint.

A flat battery on mine brought up a camshaft position sensor error code. Battery would be first thing to check.

I ended up buying a second hand unit, Removing the ballast was a nightmare, and I ended up with the inside of the headlight covered in muck. Everytime i touched that headlight something went wrong. Tried splitting it, but just managed to mangle the casing, i think to do it would need placing it in oven.

I read earlier models required doing something with the pedals to turn it off rather than just pushing the button.

the Videos show people using a heat gun on the seal, or suggestion to put it in the oven. 🤔 Might not even be neccessary and i can seal it from the outside hopefully.

I've ordered some new screws which should make it a little easier... I'm going to try repairing the existing one first, probably won't last but since it's removed and some guides recommend splitting it to remove the ballast, or at least i have full access to the unit i can try and find where the leak is from to seal it before replacing it.

I've now removed the headlight, the ballast unit is very dodgy looking, crusty. This headlight had condensation in it so seal had failed somewhere and presumably water found it's way in to the unit, so replacing it seems like it'd fail again. Going to check the price of a new one but probably buy a second hand one, front bumper was a pig to remove which was fun.

Hi, my low beam, drivers side headlight has stopped working. Changed the bulb, checked the fuse. I assume this means the ballast has gone and that's inside the headlight unit? Is there anything i can check, or is it a case of replace the entire unit? All other lights inside it work.

Did have belt noise from mine with failing water pump bearing. Can't remember how exactly bad it was, but it wasn't horrendous. If you move the tensioner to get slack in the belt, see if you can wobble the water pump pulley.

I've used them in the last month for couple of parts, a bumper bracket, and the boot vents. I initially added the wrong part to my order and completed it before realising, it wasn't easy to contact them but they did then cancel the whole order. Restarted it again, this time took a while to confirm parts in stock, they then messaged me to say that i must bear in mind i may be charged import duties that would be my responsibility, and if i wasn't willing to accept then not to continue. I went ahead after working out even with duty it was a good price, ultimately I didn't have to pay anymore (by chance?) and items arrived pretty quickly. Would definitely use them again.

any luck with this? Wasn't the engine/exhaust hitting sometime was it, looks to move quite a bit if that's the downpipe just visible.

The Alfa 155 dominated 1994, when the Volvo Estate raced. They used a homologation special (Silverstone Edition) to allow them to use an adjustable front spoiler, and a raised rear wing, apparently several of the parts weren't installed, just put in the boot. 🤣 Although according to Gabriele Tarquini it was the differential that made the biggest difference over the competition. (Interview with 1994 BTCC champion, Gabriele Tarquini.) The following season aerodynamic aids were permitted, which the estate couldn't use, something like the rear wing wasn't allowed to be visible from the front of the car, It wasn't banned, it was just no longer able to be competitive under the new regulations.

Not for me, but i recently removed a rubber spoiler from my bootlid and thinking it looks a bit odd without it. Pity there wasn't (largely decorative) wing options as per my favourite car of the '90s.

I had an issue in that area last year, It caused a fairly large petrol leak, which is an obvious fire risk, it started with a faint smell of fuel which i couldn't locate, and ultimately progressed. In my case i think it was caused by the steel retaining ring rusting, which put pressure on the top of the plastic pump and it cracked. The list of cars affected seem to almost exclusively be early direct injection vehicles, so i would have thought the issue would lie in the high pressure fuel line areas, rather than the low pressure parts. If it was just the electric pump in the tank and it's gasket, it would be incredibly simple to fix, albeit the pump would be costly if not secondhand.

closed when it's facing you is for outside air, when you can see the filter it's for recirculation. Depending on how it's broken it could be very simple to repair, with epoxy glue, i think there's a couple of guides.

Is is possible the fuses are getting knocked if the cover is removed. Is there any dirt in the power socket? Do you use the satnav in any other car without isse, try it in the other socket, although it is awkward. Try other devices in the socket, do they work?

That is insane. I suppose Red with black leather is perhaps unusual, but the ivory or cream leather is much nicer (in my opinion, certainly lightens up what could otherwise be a dark interior). I could almost understand if it had all the options, but it is a basic SE-L, and although milage is low, cars degrade through time, and sitting isn't that good for a car. I wonder how long it'll be advertised for, before either being dramatically reduced, or appearing in an auction house.

On my previous car, an MGTF it had an oil temperature gauge, can't remember what the typical values were, i know driving it hard increased the temperature a fair bit. Looked up the gauge online and the red line was 150, although suspect issues if even close to that value in that car, i reckon 100-120 depending on driving. Also had one on a FIAT, but again i can't remember what typical values were. I suspect the values you've posted are about right, 100ish daily driving and 120 when pushed. use them as your baseline if there are no other issues, obviously make sure good clean oil. Sender accuracy and position could make a difference when it comes to comparing to other vehicles.

I'm pretty surprised that Lexus' are hard to remap, would have thought with toyota being such a big seller, especially in US it would have been pretty commonly done. I was thinking that since have to use E5 now, that a remap to make the best of it could almost be justified. Was very tempted to get a remap on my MGTF, which was pretty much offered by a single company as Rover/MG used their own system and obviously much lower sales figures than Toyota/Lexus.

Is the chain tensioner worked by oil pressure? Is there a valve to stop backflow when the engine is off? the VVT on the cams is oil worked, but isn't it just noisy on start up rather than misfiring if an issue?

I scraped out the gunk from mine, sprayed a thin coat of some clear anti corrosion wax in there and put the new one on. Took it out today on the motorway and it seems to have stopped the wind noise i had.

Yeah, i did try to upload a picture but it wouldn't let me, but i think someone has used sealant (and a lot of it) to put the old trim on. I'm doing what you said for now, but it wouldn't surprise me if windscreen does need to come out really at some point to sort it all out properly. I decided to replace the trim in the first place as i was getting some wind noise from the passenger side, and I could see the rubber had all perished, thought it would be a simple job. 😏

I got one for the passenger side the other day, think i ordered it the day before you posted, but only got around to fitting it today. old one came off okay, but then it revealed what was beneath 😤 whoever put the windscreen in has made a mess of it, or someone has tried to fix a leak and then just shoved the side piece on afterwards, while it was still wet it'd seem. I presume it's not normal for windscreen sealant to fill that channel up as much as it has and for it to even be on the front of the windscreen. 🤬So looks like i need to find someone to refit the windscreen or fit a new one.

https://youtu.be/lUYfTrXHK4U?t=40 Tesla, no engine, no risk of hydrolocking. Presumably still has parts that might not take too kindly to being plunged into cold water, might not be good for battery life either, but no problems at all with fording water.