Cymro

So that suggests that both black keys are masters? Both my black keys (originals which I've had since the car was new) are showing signs of plastic fatigue, with cracks having developed near the blade. I've covered those areas with an epoxy resin, but that isn't a permanent cure. The time will come when I'll need to replace the keys - and I'd rather plan that task, and not have to do so in a crisis. Whilst I can get by for now (also have the grey valet key) and whilst it's unlikely that both black keys will disintegrate simultaenously, I need to replace them soon. And I now know that both of them are masters, either can be used for copying.

Yes - me too with my RX300. So which is a Master? How can I tellby looking at them?

Unable to respond in detail as haven't had to change that bulb, but a general point to bear in mind: do buy a reputable bulb from a recognised brand e.g. Lucas, Bosch etc. I changed the centre brake light bulb using an unbranded bulb from local factors (only cost a pound or so) but its resistance ws not sufficiently within the precise tolerances, and so the dashboard bulb-failure warning light continued to show although the replaced bulb worked fine. Bought a Lucas (it was only 20p more!) and that solved it. Cymro

I'm even more in the same quandry: my RX300 is 12 years old, and still has the original Panasonic battery. It's always connected to a battery conditioner when the car is in the garage - and as it only does 1,500 miles a year, it's connected most of the time. But I have this gnawing feeling that the battery cannot go on for ever, and because these days batteries don't show signs of approaching death, I don't want to be stuck at an inconvenient time or place. So, albeit that there's some life left in it, maybe I should replace it when convenient. I thought I'd go along to halfords and get them to install a Yuasa HSB103 (that's what came up when I put my reg number into the Halfords battery-choser). Then I'll have to sort out the 4 windows and the sluding roof (and reset the clock and radio, presumably). That's how I came across your post: I searched to see how complicated it is to change the battery. It seems that the only complications are the windows and roof - and I can mange that, I think! Don't want to go to Lexus as won't get battery of choice, and fear I'll get a big bill (unlike recent post saying that LexLeicester only charged £72 inclusive). Open to suggestions! Cymro

CJHybrid: I had my wheels done a few years ago by Lepsons. They then had a branch in Swindon. I deemed it worthwhile to travel from cardiff to Swindon; leave the car for 2 days; and collect. It was a wise choice. First calss jobSadly, they've since closed their Swindon branch. They now operate somewhere near London. See Google. You may be interested in this post which I made before I had the work done. I recommend them unreservedly. "Hello Webby 1, I made enquiries of Lepsons, and they sent me a helpful reply immediately (which I've added below for your information). I've told them that I will proceed, but only after then end of July (because things are manic here at the moment - daughter getting married, and moving house, next month and as yet precious few arrangements in place!) I propose to drive there; train back to Cardiff; and reverse journey after the job is done. Happy to keep you posted in August. Really grateful for the recommendation to use Lepsons. Here's what they told me: "Thank you for your enquiry, The Lexus RX300, as you know, originally have a diamond cut finish. We wouldn't recommend having this done again, and it is a high possibility we couldn't refurbish them back to original, as the manufacture make them so they cannot be machined again. You can however have them refurbished in a Platinum or Dark Chrome effect, which will last longer and looks just as good. This finish also comes with a years warranty. (We have examples in the office) The cost to have them re-done in either of these colours are as follows if you were to leave the car here; Cost depnends on your alloy size. (For all 4 alloys). 10-18"- £360.00 19" - £408.00 20" - £456.00 21" - £528.00 22" - £624.00 Prices include VAT" Excellent. 2 years later and the wheels are perfect.

That was my thinking, as we intend to keep both vehicles for the long term. Merc was new when treated, and has taken over from the RX as the daily runabout family car (because it's twice as economical as the RX). Motorhome already 14 years old, but on VW chassis and with excellent 2.5tdi engine. Had it from new, and want to keep it at least another 5 years. Peveresely, however, I havene't had the RX treated, mainly because it's 11 years old; only does 2Kpa; and lives in our garage. Thus far it shows little sign of rust - and I can't really justify £500 on a car which can't be worth very much. And Knutsford's a long way from Cardiff - albeit a nice place for a day out!

Sure this is already a well Oiled subject on here but does anyone have any experience of rustmaster.I am seriously considering spending £500 to have the proffesional waxoil treatment. Anyone used these guys they are supposedly the best in the country with one operation in the south and one in the North. Have had Merc and Motorhome treated by Rustmaster at Knutsford within the last year. For underside they use a black Waxoyl which is only available to trade; used on oil rigs etc. Rustmaster hot wash the underside to start - and I was given a demo whereby a patch on the side of their out-doors spraying ramp, which had been painted some time ago with black Waxoyl, was blasted at close range with the lance jet - to no effect. Good stuff. Depot is on a farm. They'll run you into Knutsford for the day. Send me a PM if you need any more info. Cymro

Had mine done by Lepsons at Swindon 01793 887222. First class job. Found them after recommendations on this forum. Happy to recommend them unconditionally. I paid £202 (inclusive of vat) for the 4 wheels on my RX300. Done August 2011. Still like new.

Problem solved! Thanks to your advice, at last I have today bought another new 18w bulb to fit the central brake light - notwithstanding that the earlier replacement bulb works. I fitted the latest bulb (Lucas) - and YES! The bulb warning light no longer shows on the dashboard. So the system must be very sensitive to the bulb's resistance. Many thanks for you advice.

Many thanks for these replies. I've discovered from my MOT tester that the car will not fail because of the false display of the bulb failure warning light. Nevertheless I do want to eliminate it, and I'll get new bulbs from Lexus for the 3 brake lights (I'm told that bulbs from an autopart dealer my not have exactly the stipulated resistances.) Thanks for the advice.

The bulb failure warining light appeared recently on my dashboard. I checked, and found that the bulb in the tailgate brake-light had failed. It proved easy to remove the trim, and replace the bulb. However, the dashboard warining light continues to be illuminated. So I've checked every bulb, and every possible combination of lights, and every one is OK. I really have checked the lot. So I wonder: after the warning light has been activated by a bulb failure, must the warning system be re-set? Unless I can clear it, the car will fail the MOT because a warning light is (wrongly) illuminated. Any advice, please?

The "bulb failure" warning light has come on. So I checked all lights and combinations of lights - and the only light which is not illuminating as it should is the central LED brake light in the top of the tailgate. I suspect it may be a wiring problem rather than a failure. But how do I get at it? With the tailgate open, there's a pice of plastic trim along the inside top of the tailgate, under which sit the LEDs. Can anyone advise how to remove that trim, please? Or - if anyone has had this problem - can you advise how you sorted it? Thanks

Just a thought: you don't say what mpg you're getting. I'd expect suburban use to give around 22mpg. However, if you are getting well below that (e.g. 18 or 19) then before rushing to convert it I'd get one thing checked. You say that you're new to the car, and so I guess you don't know whether the mpg which you're getting is normal or not. I've had ours from new, and over 80K it gives just under 24. Recently, however, it dropped to 19. My wife normally drives it. I took it out, and noticed a drag - not as much as when overdrive is disengaged, but a definite drag. It turned out that a brake calliper had seized, and hence the drag. Now sorted.

Funnily enough, I was at a Lexus dealer yesterday (80K service on 2002 RX300) and I asked whether it was possible to adjust the sensitivity of the alarm, because ours sometimes goes off when a vehicle passes too close to the parked RX. Answer was no.

Eventually took RX to Lepsons at Swindon. Very professional outfit: they were ready for me; left the car as arranged; was ready after 48 hours (they had cautioned it might take longer). Looks as new. Hope it'll last longer than new! Apparently the problem with most wheels made in Japan is insufficient primer. Thanks for suggesting Lepsons.

Me too.

I've also got this awful, intermittent, whirring and clicking sound from the dash. It happens whether or not aircon is selected. Certainly sounds like some solenoid or other is trying to do something but failing. Aircon and heating systems are working OK as required, but this mechanical noise is a pain. Any ideas, anyone? If it requires removal of the dash for access, I assume that'll cost a fortune?

Thanks for responses. Have emailed Lepsons as suggested by Lydiamight. Shall keep forum posted.

Thanks very much for the explanation. Now to find somewhere local....

Bought my RX 300 new in 2002. Wheels quickly corroded, and at the end of the 3 years' guarantee, I got 4 replacements. Of course, they also subsequently corroded badly, and by now they all look terrible. So I was glad to see your post. I am thinking of getting them refurbished (I see a reply to your post suggests "powder coating" but I don't know what that means) but have not done anything about it because I don't know of a recommended place in South Wales to do the job. Cymro

In addition, of course, the principal purpose of turning off the overdrive (when the dashboard reminder light will come on) is to provide engine braking. It's for long descents - and achieves the same effect as, say, changing down from 5th gear to 4th in a manual car. For a really steep descent, you can move the gear selector from D to 2 or L, but that gives a fairly drastic amount of drag / engine braking. For a more modest amount, use the O/D Off button. Mind you, there's a valid argument for not using the engine & gearbox to achieve braking, but use the brakes only. Brake pads are cheaper to replace than gearboxes! But some of us old-school drivers are uncomfortable about relying on brakes alone, and prefer the gentler retardation of constant engine braking.

There are two puzzling elements to this long-standing saga of the corroding wheels: why does it happen? And - more important - why on earth doesn't Lexus do anything about it? The problem has been around for at least 7 years, and continues.

My RX 300 Mk 1 had the usual corroding wheels, which were replaced after 3 years just before the guarantee expired. Of course, the next set also corroded. But as they're now 6 years old, and looking awful, I wonder whether it's worth having them refurbished, or living with them? (I assume that the bubbled and peeled surface isn't a safety issue); or replacing once again - but at my expense? Any advice, please? Would particularly like to know if anyone has had original equipment Lexus wheels refurbished, and if so, have they lasted better? Thanks.

Yes - at least 3 times in 8 years. Each time it's one of the 4 sensors. And each time it cost me a few hundred to get it sorted.