Sman101

Hi Vlad, nothing as yet. For now looks like ill just have to wait until something breaks or gets bad enough to diagnose.

Yes both replaced. This has played on my mind from the beginning and from video evidence it does seem to back it up.. Only issue is when I removed the old bushing and on inspection of the bolt, shaft etc there was no erosion, damage or marks suggesting there is any collision taking place. But yes the space in there is tight and flex of the arm could cause rubbing.

Vlad, I got KYB rear shocks from amazon US a few months ago for about £110 each side delivered. Haven't fitted them yet tho.

No unfortunately I still have this issue and no closer to fixing it. My brakes are in good condition with all clips, shims etc present and in good condition(I actually changed them with new parts thinking it might fix). In fact I have a brand new caliper on that exact side but it hasnt affected the noise in any way.

The heat shield was checked and didn't show any evidence of being the culprit. But I will keep an eye on it.

Yes, these are all present and in good order.

Hi All, I just wanted to be comprehensive so below is a link to a videos of the new ADT blue print LCA bushing that I installed (OE spec), the action seems very similar to the worn out one it replaced, and I haven't really noticed any improvements. Initial noise complaint is still there but seems less frequent for some reason. I want to say that the warmer temperatures in summer made it worse? or this new bushing may have improved things.. https://youtu.be/VdAB5HHZ8H0 Also this is a clip I took of the top mount as seen under the bonnet. Nothing amazing going on and the culprit noise did not make an appearance on this drive but you can see some movement 27 seconds in. https://youtu.be/vOc5kU53hjo can any one notice anything out of the ordinary? This issue has dropped in priority; the driver side rear shock is weeping excessively and with a fully loaded car the rear suspension gets noisy so some replacements are on their way, and to top things off the front drivers brake caliper noise which I thought I had fixed with new discs, pads, pins, grease and all new hardware etc has come back with a vengeance after only 5 months! so might need new calipers, unless this is somehow related to the initial noise complaint... I give up.

Unfortunately there has been no progress with this. If it was the exhaust it may explain the intermittent nature of the noise but I can't spot the excess movement you are referring to.. Also the noise is not present over bumps, only rough roads/potholes.

This is my first lexus/jap car and I was also shocked at how things were moving down there. The space between that nut you are referring to and the subframe is minimal but when I took the nut off and inspected it I couldn't see any evidence (scratch, marks, dents) suggesting it was in contact with the subframe. The search continues...

No, thats the old one.

That was what I noticed initially but I still have the noise even after replacing the bush...Ive replaced both sides aswell.

the disc shields on mine are still nice and sturdy, can anyone recommend other diagnostic approaches that don't require require removal of shocks etc? (is it worth sticking the go pro over the top mount? will this be able to show me anything useful?) I've had a front alignment done now and I am tempted to just leave the problem until it becomes unbearable / gets easier to notice its source. problem with this approach is I don't want other components wearing out because of this.

I have bounced the car on the front corners with the top covers off and didn't notice anything strange on the top mounts. anything else I can do before taking them off the car? If I take them out what would I be looking for?

Paul, I have unfortunately proven you right. Just replaced the bush with a new blue print one, cant notice any difference in the drive and the noise is still there. 😞 I double checked and made sure I got all the torque specs correct when I replaced the drop links, I wish this was as simple as that. Thanks for the input. Should I bother changing the fluid bearing on the other side before I go for an alignment? the plan was to change the drivers side, find how amazing the car feels and how the noise goes away then do the same to the other side and then finally have it all aligned.

I manged to get a go pro under the front lower control arm rear bush (there is a factory bracket right next to the rear bush which I used to bolt a rudimentary piece of aluminium bent to attach the camera with). Looks like the small cracks on it get much larger at times. At 1:53 you can hear the sound I am complaining about. Clunk clunk. Looking at other videos of this bushing it seems the play/softness is normal. What you think, could this be the cause?

Nothing showed up on MOT, ive seen some posts from America describing similar symptoms to mine and they seem to think its the lower control arm bush (the big fluid filled one) this bushing on my car does have some small stress fractures but it just seems to be on the surface. My next plan is to stick a gopro underneath and see if I can get a recording.

Hi all, Need some advise please, recently started to notice an intermittent metalic clatter / clunking sound (happens in 2's, clunk clunk) over rough roads, small bumps / pot holes as slow ish speeds. Does not make noise over big bumps, or high speeds. This is from front drivers side, and very noticeable from outside the car. Mechanic had a look on a lift and couldn't find any obvious issues. Its intermittent, seems to get more pronounced the longer I drive. Definitely a metal on metal contact noise and Its very annoying as the car is generally super quiet. Ive changed the anti roll bar links and bushes out of curiosity... Which has had zero impact on this noise. Car does not pull to the left, but tracks very slightly to the left when braking if hands are not on steering wheel. Maybe road camber, crap caliper or maybe a symptom of this noise? So before I go further in chucking parts at this issue has anyone experienced anything like this? Are there any areas of suspension weakness to look in to? Any advise appreciated.

Thank you.

If someone could also advise me if the wheels need to be on the ground / weight of car on suspension before I torque the sway bar bushings and drop links? Thanks.

Hi All, Can someone kindly advise of the torque spec for the front anti roll bar / sway bar bushing bracket bolts (lexus is250) ? (there are two brackets holding the bushings in place, each with two bolts and looks like red lock tight was on them) Thanks in advance.