MrTrendizzle

E10 eats away at the rubber seals etc... I've run my IS250 on E10 almost since it came out and i've got zero issues beyond a little less ommpff. Altho i'm fully aware at some point i will most likely need to replace some rubber seals/fuel lines. From my understanding the main pump seal inside the cabin can be destroyed over time and leak fuel vapors in to the cabin which is a HUGE no-no for Lexus so instead of just swapping the seal with an updated rubber compound they just rate the IS250 for E5 only. From a few threads it looks like the E10 seals are the exact same part number as the IS250 E5 rated seals which means at some point the rubber compound was updated so if it does fail you car will eventually be ok with E10 as you replace each seal as they breakdown. There's others with more info so take a good read, IMHO the only difference between E10/E5 is price, power and MPG.

Seriously i'm not joking... This has got to be a "We don't want to sell/fit this part" price, or the alternator comes with a lifetime warranty.

That would explain the rpm drop as the alternator comes on/off. Maybe a possible clutch pully bearing issue rather than an alternator issue as like i've said the alternator charges at the correct voltage and only drops to 12.5v just before the rpm drops which would be the clutch engaging. As the rpm drop significantly i would assume maybe the clutch/bearing could be worn out and causing the alternator/engine to struggle at idle. That would make perfect sense. My long drive yesterday to Exeter (Location changed at last minute) i had zero battery light the entire journey until i hit Exeter and had to idle in traffic for a few minutes and then it was on/off all the time. The alternator was a complete unit so i didn't need to swap the pully over. I'll have to look around for a new unit unless a clutch pully is cheap and easy to change compared to the full unit. EDIT: Just did some research and i think i have the wrong idea of how the clutch pully works on the alternator so swapping that might not be the fix. I'm just going to look at pulling the alternator out and replacing it if a good clean and quick slip test on the pully dosn't fix the issue. Found a video posted by a different member on how to test the pully. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyosuYbPxr4 I've checked all connections except the voltage regulator plug as i'm unable to get my fat hands down the very small gap to unplug and clean.

If you do decide to break the car, let me know if i can grab the drive shafts. I have a welded diff but no shafts to fit my IS250. From my understanding the splines are the same size for the hub. I have the input half shafts so just the other half's i require. Plus i'm in the west midlands also 😁

I'm not far from Brum and i pay £540 a year up from £460. Altho Aviva chucked in RAC roadside+Recovery which should've cost £80 so technically the price didn't change or RAC was free. Dreading renewing tho. Checked a few sites and i'm getting quotes between £800-£2600 with mods declared and some companies refusing because my daughters sticker in the window is the 7th mod and refuse cover. I have to claim window tint and decals as "Stickers" to bring the price down. I mean they're both technically stickers so why not right?

Sorry i should clarify. The idle is 750rpm with the battery light on, the revs drop to 500rpm and raises as the battery light goes off for a moment almost like when you turn on the AC you notice the rpm drop slightly. I've just done the school run and like this morning i've not had the battery light come on and the idle holds strong at around 750+rpm which is a good sign i hope but still makes me scratch my head a little and worry about potentially only patching the issue with a newer stronger battery. Will take the car on a long run to Bristol tomorrow with a spare in the boot. Luckily i have RAC roadside+recovery. The 500rpm is only when the battery starts to charge again almost like the alternator kicking in and the engine dropping the revs a little. It does raise back up and settle at 750rpm but the battery light comes back on and so the cycle repeats. Both this morning and just now i've done the school run with zero battery light so i'm guessing maybe my old battery was dying and showing a false reading and the new battery wasn't fully charged when i swapped it over. I'll have to get a smart charger, currently have a lipo charger with Pb setting so will have to invest in one. I'm off on a long run to Bristol tomorrow so hopefully any issues are fixed, but if the alternator does let go and is the issue i have the spare battery in the boot which has enough charge to get the car started and move a few miles before i call out the RAC to recover me home. I think i paid around £130 for my alternator, i checked LexusDirect and they quoted £950... It's currently on sale with 20% off 😬 I've found a genuine brand new Denso alternator online for £180+20 postage so if all else fails i'll have to get that. Just sucks as i'm starting to struggle a little and every penny was to be saved for our first ever family trip to France in May which is looking a bit close for comfort if anything else goes wrong. This year i;ve already had to replace the fridge, washer, hoover, battery and now possible alternator. Stupid sods law!

The plug is the two/four wire plug that plugs in to the side of the alternator located near the main + post. (Plug for the voltage regulator it seems) Should an alternator always output 14.5v no matter the rpm? or does the alternator cut off once the battery is fully charged while in use which explains why the alternator shows an output of 12.5v at idle and when the battery light is on while the battery tends to fall below 11.5v and the engine idles rough until you give it a little rev which then registers 14.5v output and the battery slowly increases it's voltage?

I grew up in an age where we're told NOT to use our real names online for safety and such. Now if you don't use your real name you get banned from Facebook. As for sellers on FB so long as you avoid the 3 B's then you're normally fine. Obviously don't send money to someone you don't know and you're golden. Who needs a deposit if i've agreed to pick the car up within the next 2 hours.

Hey, So recently i've had an issue where my battery light has been coming on but kept going away if the revs stayed up above 2k rpm. I did the normal tests with my multimeter and it showed the alternator charging the battery at 14.5v and would drop back to 12.5v once the revs dropped to idle. I tested both the battery terminals, alternator main post and even main post to body of alternator and it shows the alternator outputting 14.5v and only dropping once the revs dropped back to idle. I did notice that the revs would drop to 500rpm just before the alternator started back up again, revs climb on there own to 1k rpm and output 14.5v as normal with no load and while i place a load it runs at 14.5v but the battery drained still to 11.5v I've fully charged my battery on the kitchen table and left it over night and the battery shows 12.9v once charging stops and in the morning 12.6v. If i use the battery and place a load like defroster, heaters, lights etc... the battery can drain down to 11.4v so i assumed it was the battery not fully charging and showing a false reading considering the alternator seems to be outputting 14.5v... Well anyway last night i pop over to Halfrauds and pick up a new battery, fit it myself in the carpark and the moment i start the car i'm met with the red glow of a battery light. Maybe the battery was not fully charged and only enough to start the car so gave it a drive home where the battery light stayed off while driving but the moment i stop and idle the battery light comes back on. Last night i gave up and felt like crying as costs have gone up on everything so i'm struggling to keep up. Honestly i'm at a loss as to what could be the problem. All the wires are tight and clean, the only one i havn't touched is the plug on the side of the alternator as i can't get my hand down the gap to unplug, clean and press back in. I'm not sure what that plug is for but it's the only part i've not touched yet. Can someone confirm if that plug could cause an issue please? Does anyone else have some insight in to what else i possibly could do before shelling out for a new alternator? I checked my email history and the Alternator is a genuine reconditioned Denso that's 1 year, 10 months and 2 weeks old.

If you're a dab hand at DIY the entire hub assembly is £60 on Fleabay. Once everything is off and disconnected it's 4 bolts to replace it. Most likely require a good breaker bar and lots of WD40 over the next few days.

When i first passed my test that 1.4 SRI Corsa was a sports car. Everyone else running 1.0 ecotec cars while i had that full injection model with enough torque to pull my car left under full throttle... Technically my Supra was a sportscar. 😁

1.4 SRI Corsa B Closest thing to a sports car when i first passed my test. 1.6 Astra something? Was cheap and was used for offroading. 1.8 MkII Cavalier Great car and super cheap insurance compared to my friends paying 3x what i did. 1.4 Saxo VTR/S Bought from a friend, Gearbox blew up and friend reported car stolen. Cops seized the car. I was out £200 but my friend got charged with insurance fraud as i wasn't going to jail for car theft. 1.2 Nova SR Great little car. Bought and sold for £500 and fitted a new engine after i bent a few valves. 3.0 Toyota Supra Mk II My first official "sports car" Weighed the same as a 747 aircraft and rolled around like a boat in a storm but was fun to drive and i miss the old leather seat smell. 1.6 BMW 316 WORST CAR EVER! DO NOT BUY! No power and the clutch went 3 months in to owning it. 2.0 Lexus IS200 Favourite Lexus owned. Love the dash. Dorito litre RX8 Brap Brap Brap is all i need to say. Shame the MOT failed with 4 A4 pages of repairs. Bought and sold for £100. 1.6 Renault Scenic Meh! First electronic handbrake which was kinda cool. Messed up cambelt change and it skipped a few teeth and sounded like a diesel. 1.8 Vauxhall Zafira Meh! Not my favourite but it did the job. Whatever make is a Sedona... It was a brick on wheels but had the entire universe as space inside. 1.2 Fiat Punto Most boring car to own and drive ever! I'd rather roll around in dog poop then sit in that car again. Still on my drive awaiting a subframe before selling it. £800 with full MOT after Christmas i hope. 2.5 Lexus IS250 Loving this car. Lost of fun to drive but after market parts are few and far between. My thought process of buying this car is once all the other "cheap" RWD cars are used and destroyed for drifting the price of these will skyrocket and after market parts will become cheaper and plentyful.

Would the ECU really need to be changed? Surely there's some tech boffins out there that could blank off the gearbox connections and trick the car's ECU in to thinking it the auto box is functioning as it should be. This is way out of my depth of understanding so really just a question as to if the whole ECU would need changing as all you want is the engine to run as normal and the gearbox to be changed which "could" be all mechanical rather than computer software controlled.

Welded on valve caps would be a good theft deterrent. I wonder why metal valve caps don't have a locking grub screws. Sure it would be fiddly to remove them to top up the air but it would seriously slow down any thief trying to mess around with a tiny Allen key. Today i researched more and more on adding an extra couple of wires to the steering wheel button connectors with inline resistors to allow for a 4 pin AUX port to be installed allowing phone music controls via the steering wheel without the heafty price tag of a new headunit or having to rely on Bluetooth etc... I shall order parts £2ish and give it a quick trial run and if it works report back with instructions for those wanting to avoid the Chinesium headunits or expensive GromLine products and don't wish to use bluetooth modules to enable something that should come stock.

I saw these. I just prefer not to use bluetooth. Honestly i have no idea why i hate bluetooth just don't like using it i guess through dodgy bluetooth connections being dropped and having to repair etc.. I wanted a full wired setup with AUX cable altho fitting a wireless charging mat in the armrest with Bluetooth connection might be kinda cool. I just found this image which confirms the steering wheel buttons for seek-/seek+ are just momentary switches and even have their own resistance values which i assume would be beyond the plug and not from switch to plug which means splicing on to the wires should allow me to install the correct resistors for the AUX port to activate the phones skip track function (Pause/play will just be me turning the radio on/off) My thought process would be to tap directly to the switch wires, install 220ohm 1/2w resistor on the Seek- line and 660ohm 1/5w resistor on the seek+ wires completely bypassing the radio itself direct to the 4 pin AUX port total cost £2 + some solder, heatshrink and time which "should" allow me to now control my phone using the AUX cable in the armrest of a Lexus IS250. Luckily i have some of those clamp on wire connectors so no need to cut anything. Just going to run this through a few people to 100% be sure this method will work and then give it a bash. Worst case i wasted £2 and a bit of time, best case it works 100% and i can give a quick tutorial allowing others to do the same and give their car a bit more control.