Tony-Bones

Bet you will know more than them now ;) .... Fact is the cambers need recovering and balanced front and rear. On the sport springs these are the settings i would shoot for Rear Camber: -1 degree 20' Toe: +8' per side Front Camber: -50' Castor: As high as possible Toe: +4' per side They will tell you the castor is not adjustable!..... It is but indirectly VIA the camber adjustment? To explain.... When the camber is moved it will dramatically displace the toe position, as this is corrected it will indirectly adjust the castor position and move it toward positive, this is a good thing! In addition the front steering arm lock nuts will be seized like a *****, a wire brush to clean the threads then some heat ( not glowing ) will deal with that.

Then the only unknown factor is going to be the coil rates your shooting for, i would think around 500r 600f if your going for a fast-road come fun track day. On the Hunter they need to measure the end position of the "Rolling force lever", hard to explain but they should understand, This ensures the final camber and SAI ( Steering Axis Inclination ) provide the same size tyre contact patch under the steer pivotal axis.

Other things fall into the mix like.... If you have up-rated roll bars, polly's, aftermarket wheels, then offset, spacers and so on. On top of all this the end calibration would depend on the OEM pre-installed adjustment range. It only takes one adjuster to run out of range then the entire calibration will need to be born from that position. For example you can't have three wheels set for fast-road and one set at OEM levels, it would handle pants. Historically you would be safe with OEM adjusters to -50mm, after that additional front camber adjusters would be needed. -60mm you would also need rear adjusters.

OEM geometry settings would de-tune the modification, whereas what should happen is a bespoke set-up to enhance the chassis into two areas... 1: Tyre preservation if tyre wear is an issue 2: Fast road/ track type of calibration where handling is the dominant desire Fact is you can't have both since no modification is without consequence. Historically owners want to surf between the two options thus enhancing the handling but understanding there will be some sacrificial tyre wear. Point is you cannot and must not allow OEM settings to be applied.

Eibach are the one's to ask about that but i do know they are as harsh as Tein so you really need to think about the rebound if your using OEM dampers.

So it's about -15mm lower than non-sport and oil dampers. Can i ask why your going onto coilovers? If you intend the slam it then you will need additional front camber adjusters unless tyre wear is not a concern. The rear camber should be fine with the OEM adjusters since the pickup points are near vertical.

Is the car lowered and if yes how much?

What settings are you going for?

Eibach's are the way to go but be sure to go for gas dampers since the lowered coils have a higher rate than OEM coils.

Hi guys, i found this thread by chance and have to say thanks for the kind words..... Back to the point though, the front settings are fine albeit a little messy but what the hell is going on at the rear? They have dialled out all the camber?

To conclude Lexus are aware of the problem and my solution but they never/ haven't offered a in house solution. Look at this denial in a monitory factor.... If Lexus confess to a geometric error the corrections and recompense for tyres would cost them millions. The entire problem for the IS 200/ 300/ SC is the low geometric castor angle? A what angle you must think! well this castor position on the front wheels is how advanced the lower ball joint is compared to the upper pivitol point? so what you might think but in the real world that lower ball joint actually pulls the steering forward generating directional stability...... Well that's all good and fine so Lexus design team thought but a low castor and a low camber, plus the Achkrman effect meant the camber position ( on turn ) is to deep..... Wholla Lexus you got the math wrong.

Excellent ;)

The IS200/300/ SC needs a full geometry, not tracking or four wheel laser alignment, so be wise. www.alignmycar.com is a site that can find the correct machine nearest to your addy. The problem with the IS geometry is the low castor position but the angle is not directly adjustable. I wrote new positions years back that allows indirect adjustment by using a change in the camber that displaces the toe that when corrected adjusts the castor.

Start saving for new front tyres then?.... Their mesurment type is decimal degrees so for example the front toe should be +0 12' each side, not +0 60, this is around + 35' or around +3mm each side, rather than + 4' or +2mm per side.

It's rubbish!..... The front camber should be -10' as directed and why didn't they measure the castor angle?

The problem you have is your measuring the camber with the suspension on full droop. If that is the case you don't actually know what the camber reading is with the suspension loaded.

You shouldn't have any issues with 225's?

We recently entered into a "trial" collaboration sharing some excellent workspace and facilities and prospects with a new Wheel Refurbishment Company in Milton Keynes. Unfortunately and due to circumstances beyond our control we have decided to withdraw from this operation as there was a potential for a "conflict of interests" and we did not want to do anything that would jeopardise our good name and integrity. We apologise for any inconvenience that this may cause but we are acting in the best interests of our company/companies.

In an ideal world you should replace the dampers alongside the coils, the only reason for this is if the dampers are tired they might struggle with the coils rebound.

You need the full geometry checking, not just the tracking.

I wasn't aware the LS can use RFT's?

We take great pleasure in inviting members/ guests to the Wheels-inmotion and sister company BlackBoots grand opening of the new Milton Keynes centre. After we forged a totally new experience for those seeking Alignment/ Geometry/ Tyres using some of the best equipment, staff and knowledge in our Chesham centre, it seemed logical to expand on this experience and go bigger, longer, wider and higher..... So we have. Wheels-inmotion and BlackBoots new centre in Milton Keynes offers the following in it's 32,000sq ft, five story building * Geometry calibration encompassing set-ups for domestic/ modified and race cars * Handling/ tyre wear solutions * Impact triangulation to identify damaged components * Pre-purchase approval.... This identifies a damaged chassis before you hand over your money * Suspension supply and calibration * Brake service or up-grades * Exhaust fitting * Fitting your own parts is not a problem In addition * Tyre sales that can retail at online prices * Tyres for Fiesta to Ferrari, Zafira to Zonda, if it's not in stock we will find it wherever in the World * In the event you find tyres cheaper than we can supply ( which i doubt ) we will still fit them for you * Laser driven tyre fitting machines that ( cannot damage your wheel ) * Dye-less wheel balance mounting for balance perfection with a printout to prove it * Nitrogen inflation costing you a cool £0 In addition to the addition * Wheel sales * Wheel welding * Wheel re-shaping * Wheel re-refurbishment, using a fully automated, one of a kind machine in the world able to prefect 300 wheels a day ISO9000 compliant * Wheel diamond cutting * Custom colour coding/ change/ paint or powder, including partial diamond cut * Milling to correct off-sets * Billet milling... Wheel not avalible in your size? Then we will make it About the open day * Starts 10am till around 2pm, probably 4pm if past meets are to go by * Hot food/ refreshments on site... I will bung £150 to the cook for you, after that you pay * The entire experience is a "show and tell", so enjoy a meet on us * We will have many exotic cars on site. In house we have two Xbow's, a Radical and a works Megane.. Not the Magan actually because it had a bit of a roll at Silverstone last week? * Our race cars from BDC/ TA/ TS/ Ma5da on track will attend subject to race commitments * The Maxxis girls will be with us for some eye candy and a few motor mags Location * Atomic Wheels building Unit 9 Northfield Drive Milton Keynes Buckinghamshire MK15 0DQ UK Please note our signage will not be up by the 03/06/12 so you need to look for the Atomic signage To the clubs/ forums * Everyone is welcome, but in case i miss the thread can Admin/ mods please give me a heads up on numbers Future club/ forum meets * Wheels-inmotion/ BlackBoots do hold meets for individual clubs. These meets are free and follow a similar train as the open day. Those that would like a marque specific meet at Milton Keynes please contact me at tony@wheels-inmotion.co.uk Further reading about wheels-inmotion can be found here * http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/index.php Past meets here * http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/simplegallery.php Thank you for your attention and look forward to seeing you on the 03/ 06/ 12 Regards Tony@ wim

Tyres can make the car pull, even new ones. Swap them side-to-side so the pull is toward the road crown.

The coils are cold rolled so they will settle in time, also check you haven't tightened any bolts in bushings with the wheels off the ground?

BlackBoots and wim are the same company, just different divisions. Honest John's reasoning for the tyre wear is utter tosh......