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culky

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  • Lexus Model
    GS300 Sport Mk1

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  1. Thanks for checking Chris! yep, tallies with what I later found out..
  2. Hi Mat, Definitely not 2nd-hand. I don't want to be doing this again next week :winky: or more importantly, to have it happen again at high rpms. I've just rechecked, it was actually £42.35 ex VAT. This was from Lexus Guildford.. I was surprised by the price because I was guessing it to be around the £100+ mark. We both said the word 'crankshaft pulley' a number of times and I quoted the chassis number. I'll post more after I go to collect it on Saturday. No doubt it's a crankshaft pulley bolt or something... I think I'll also ring to check that we were both talking about the serpentine belt crankshaft pulley and not the cambelt crankshaft pulley... Edited to add... Thanks for bringing this up - Lexus had omitted to say that of the 2 pulleys available they'd not asked and chosen the crankshaft cambelt pulley (why would I be more likely to need one of these?!). £203 ex VAT for the fanbelt part of the pulley with the harmonic damper in it. At least I won't have a wasted trip to go and pick it up now.. I also added a new crankshaft pulley bolt for good measure..I might as well do a thorough job.
  3. At the risk of posting a lot of chaff to this post, Since I've got the cams exposed, something's been bothering me.. With both cams at the TDC position (both have their markers at the 12 o'clock position), my crank pulley (the inner ring, which is still fine, is pointing at the 5 deg mark, rather than 0. Everything I've read and been led to believe about cam timing, including an electronic manual on the GS300 suggests that the cams should be at 12 o'clock with the crank pulley at 0. Can anyone confirm this? The engine has always run fine, and continued to do so when i started stripping it down, so I'm thinking logically I should just put the new belt on with these settings, but it seems to go against what I've read.. Any help or advice gratefully received.. Darren
  4. Hi TigerFish, thanks for the quick response. That pretty much confirms the conclusions I'd been coming to. I'll take a closer look at the pulley and see whether anything ingenious springs to mind. There's the old standby of a breaker bar against the floor whilst cranking the engine over, if it comes down to it I suppose. Many thanks, Darren
  5. I decided int he end that this was an opportune time to change the cambelt, since it was on my list of things to do in the near future. There are some instructions on one of the MkIV sites but I'll take some pics and post my own in case its useful to anyone in the future. It's been relatively quick to get to the cambelt and pulley - I've: i) removed the battery and airbox ii) drained the coolant and removed the radiator iii) taken the engine front covers off, rotated the crankshaft until the cam and crank marks are lined up, then locked the cams with a cam-locking tool (it was for my K-engined Caterham, but seems to fit :winky: ) All in all about 1.5hrs work I've ordered a new crankpulley (about £45) and full belt kit. I'm not sure how to lock the engine though? I may need to raise the front of the car and have a squint underneath - is there some way of locking the flywheel through the transmission-case? Anyone got any info on how to do this? Thanks in advance for any help..
  6. I should have searched harder! Looks like it's not uncommon.. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t32237.html
  7. Has anyone heard of this happening before? My car's a Mk1 Gs300 Sport. I started the car this morning, after driving it yesterday with no problems. backing it out of the garage I heard a fanbelt squeal. "Ah.. I think, better check and change the belt soon." Then i realise the steering is heavy... Popped the car back in the garage and popped the bonnet. The serpentine/fan belt was VERY loose. The belt itself was intact so my prime suspect was the tensioner pulley, sure enough it's moved to it's full extent (to take up the slack, which makes sense) Then I noticed a metal ring laying on the cover panel at the bottom of the engine bay - it's the outer ring of the crankshaft pulley The weird thing is the pulley ring doesn't look to have sheared. I don't know if it's normally a compression-fit or not but I'm guessing an entirely new crankshaft pulley will be needed. I'm also not sure how much work is going to be involved in replacing it. I'm guessing I can do it in situ, although it looks like it's going to be easier to remove the rad and front of the car..
  8. Hi all, I missed out on the group buy a while back for these but am interested in getting some - does anyone know if it's still possible to get hold of any? I had a quick look on the web and can't find any LED places anywhere that seem to sell them! Thanks in advance for any help, Darren
  9. Ah-ha.. The mystery is solved. Many thanks! :)
  10. Hello all. My Mk1 seems to be very happy following the diy-service i've given it. So far i've replaced pads, plugs, leads, filters, oil, coolant and refrigerant in the happy knowledge that i've also saved a few quid. But i've been a bit stumped by the brake fluid. The handbook and the filler cap both state DOT3, but the stuff seems to fall in the hens-teeth and rocking-horse poop category. I know I can't mix DOT4 and DOT5.1 because one's hygroscopic and the other isn't, so bad things happen. But what about DOT3 and DOT4? People seem to be of the opinion these shouldn't be mixed either. Is this the case or can I flush the system a couple of times with DOT 4 and convert to that - at least it's more convenient to get hold of. If no-one knows I guess a trip to Toyota/Lexus Guildford will be called for.. Thanks for your help, Darren
  11. Thanks guys.. Dave, £74 sounds very reasonable. I'd imagined it'd be more. If mine turns out to be a different issue and preeder's solution doesn't work fo rme, i'll go the local aircon specialist route - the big advantage as you say is that they obviously know what they're doing.. Brett - the actual refrigerant cans are about 19.99 - the 40 quid pack contains a can plus the dispenser and gauge which you can resue if necessary. All the best, Darren
  12. Ah-ha!! Thanks a million Preeder. That makes sense. Wish i'd just been a bit more gutsy and kept going. Sounds like that's what I needed to do. I'm going off to the garage to try again.... Could you do me an enormous favour some time and let me know what yours reads on the gauge when the gauge is connected but the aircon isn't on? The only reason I ask is that I did what you suggested but have pretty much run out of refrigerant. I think i was starting to see some movement on the gauge tho and the air *was* slightly cooler. Thing is - when I switched the aircon off, the gauge read well up the yellow range and almost into the red. I don't know if this is normal or not when the aircon is switched off.. To be on the safe side, I depressurised the system a little. I may go out and get another bottle of refrigerant so i can continue testing. Thanks so much for all your help! Happy driving.. Darren
  13. Having read through the archives, I seem doomed to join the ranks of those with aircon troubles. Earlier this year I noticed the aircon wasn't pushing out any cold air so thought i'd give one of the home top-up kits a go. With the engine running and aircon on full cold, i connected up the gauge to the Low pressure valve and sure enough it was registering nothing. I added a small amount of refrigerant to take the reading from nothing up to 'ok' When i reached OK, the engine changed from a slow to a fast idle (presumably because presurising the system put a load on the compressor and the engine compensated) but then the pressure went down to zero. Switching off the aircon and engine, then repeating the process, still shows no pressure on the aircon pressure gauge. Should I assume there's a good leak somewhere? Oddly, with the engine running but the aircon switched OFF, the gauge when connected to the Low Pressure valve indicates a good pressure. It's only when i hit the AC button in the cabin to switch it on that the pressure drops down to nothing. Can anyone explain what's happening or how the system works for me to get these readings? I'd expect them to be the other way round (if the system was working) or for both to be nothing (if it wasn't) I'm starting to accept that an expensive trip to Lexus Guildford may be in order if i ever want air-conditioned air again On the plus side, I've just given the car an oilchange (that oil filter is in a blooming annoying position) and will be treating it to a well-deserved coolant/plugs/leads change when Lexus get the leads in. Many thanks for any help Darren
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