B_I_T_O

Hello guys! Here's the video of the noise: http://youtu.be/ys-Bdo7Tofw I've had this noise for a while now in my IS200, and it comes from the front left wheel.The noise appears when I turn the steering wheel whatever the side, only from the left side. I can ear it turning the steering wheel stopped, and while driving aswell. It also makes the noise when there's a bump or even with small irregularities on the road wich makes the shock absorber work, even in a straight line. It's an embarasing noise, kind like the shock absorber is damaged, but it's not the shock absorber, because I changed them not 1 month ago, hoping to solve the problem. Steering oil level is ok, I don't see any leaks in the area mentioned.Can you guys help me figure out what's the problem? Thanks! Edit: I just added a video of the noise.

Hi again! Thank you for the answers, I was absent for some time. About the car, I haven't done that stop in the hill and try to take out the bubbles, but I will do it soon. Just some more things that are odd in my situation: A/C off - it takes normal time to heat, goes to 90 degrees and stays there. After some miles runned, the car, even it's normal temperature, outside it smells a tiny bit of overheating. A/C on - it rarely reaches the 90 degrees, it normally stays at 75 degrees. Is this normal? Shouldn't the A/C make the engine run with a bit more effort? I have made a test, the radiator water is always on top, but the reservoir tank goes down with a few miles run, like a reservoir tank for 40 miles. I know that the problem has a 90% chance of being the headgasket, but if it is, I might just well make an engine swap... Switch with another 1G-FE or find some 2JZ-GE from a IS300. Is it hard to make a IS300 swap? Thanks again guys!

Hi guys. I've been reading some similar topics to this one now, and I don't seem to get what the problem is. I'll explain. Some months ago, I stupidly overheated the car because I didn't check the water for a long time. He overheated until the red in the meter, and I stopped the engine ride away. Waited, filled it with water, went to my mechanic, he replaced with proper cooling liquid, and off I go. Some weeks passed, and he overheated again. Solved the problem again, and the mechanic checked that the radiator was leaking. So I tested it. Toke it for a spin of 200kms, more than 150km/h average, and stopped and checked the water. Almost half was gone. Did it again, but with 130km/h average speed, and was a bit more than half. I tough this was one of the problems that one of the topics said about a little bent that connects a tube of the waterpump or vice-versa. So I ordered a OEM waterpump and radiator, to take the problem down. Installed it. Now the car doesn't overheat, BUT, it makes that bubble sound inside the car, like there's water in the circuit, and the mechanic said that he did the bleeding. And when the engine is cold, the exhaust releases water vapor when I stop in the traffic lights, and when the temp warms up to normal position, the vapor stops. But either cold or normal temperature, everytime I stop with the engine working, idleling, when I put first gear and the car goes, it makes the bubble sound, and this is everytime, even in a 1 hour journey. Can you guys help me to solve this? Now I'm constantly afraid that the car overheats, and I hate that feeling. Forgot to mention that my car is almost with 300,000kms, wich is almost 200,000 miles. Maybe is the headgasket?

I'll take a picture of the alignment for you to see. It looks serious to me. I might be wrong about the mm vs cm. I'll check and let you know. Thanks!

Yes, I think that's it. But, let's say Ormi is right that the noise come from the ball joint. If I replace the ball joint, will stop the knock sound, but will the bush I mention be aligned again just with the replacement of the ball joint? If yes, I might just replace the ball joint then. Sorry: Double post

Yes, I think that's it. But, let's say Ormi is right that the noise come from the ball joint. If I replace the ball joint, will stop the knock sound, but will the bush I mention be aligned again just with the replacement of the ball joint? If yes, I might just replace the ball joint then.

Wich one of these is the one connected to the bush where I think the noise comes from? (bush 6/8) http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_arm-set.html

Ok. Will check. Might replace both things just to make sure.

What do you mean arm no. 1? It's the Front Lower Arm, of the left side, in my case, the driver side. The sound come from the bush where there's the number 6 and 8 together. It's the arm connected to those bushes. I need to replace the whole arm? I don't mind how much it costs, I just need the problem solved. I wonder why it's not aligned... How can that happen? Is this normal?

Hello guys. My IS200 as started to make a knocking sound, and I went to a local mechanic to see where the sound came from. It took a bit, but we checked that it was from the front lower arm. As we could feel the vibration of the knocking noise coming from the arm, we've seen that the bush (as in the picture, the number 8 bush) was not centered! It was moved 2 or 3 mm to the inside. So my question is, is this only a bush/rubber problem? Or do I only need to adjust something? Because the bush didn't look damaged. Or do I need to replace the whole arm? Please help guys! Thank you!

My mistake. I was running 225/40 18. But I'll do what you say, it should be ok. I have to find 215/40 or 35. Anyway, they need repair and repaint. Thanks!

I just checked the wheels, the ET is 35, and I used 225/45 18 tires in them. I need to replace the tires too...

Hello! I have bought a set of wheels, the Kahn RS-C 18x8, and as I was expecting, they are too big and when I'm driving, they damage the plastic inside the whell place (don't know the proper name for that lol). I have to repair them and paint them again, so I would also modify them, so whoever does the job, can also modify the wheel to the specification that I need for them to fit nicely. Can you guys help me? What size should I ask for? 7,5"? Thanks from Portugal! :)

Problem solved! It was the main Cat. Now the car is fine.

So, the guys in Lexus made a ECU diagnostic, and the car hasn't any error and everything is normal. I can't understand why, because I think if I go with the car to a bhp measurement, I think it won't have more than 90bhp... They told me that it can be the spark plugs, or the fuel filter. I'll change them monday. But I still have this dought that I asked in the previous post: Are the cats removable without causing any error to the ECU? I'm thinking removing them to see if it is the problem... Please, I could really use your help... Thank You!

Hi again. So the car kept doing the engine failing, and with the time at others revs, like 1500rpm, 3500rpm... Randomly. Yesterday a Lexus dealer changed the TPS, and I picked the car up. The car doesn't fails anymore, idle is stable at 750rpm, but the car doesn't accelerate like it suposed to. Very slow, and hardly pass 180kmh. Now a friend of mine that works in the Lexus importer technical department, says that it should be or Cat or the Maf sensor. He also said to me to make a ECU diagnostic, to see the errors. What do you think guys? If it's the Cat, what Cat would make these slowness? The main Cat or the pre-cats in the manifold? And if the Cat or the pre-cats are the problem, can I just remove them without having troubles with the ECU? Sorry so much questions... Thanks

I also forgot to say this: The car won't reach his max speed anymore, in a motorway that I use to drive at night, about 3 or 4 places I could reach the 225kmh of the speedmeter, and now the car wont' pass of the 210kmh at the same places. So that's 3 problems...

Thanks for the help guys. More questions: My car is still under the 5 year warranty. I have to take him to Lexus, so that they replace it then. I'll say them that I may be the TPS, and they replace it, this of course if they think the problem is something else. About the valve noise, some folcks told me I should make a valve check. I'll tell Lexus that oil flush thing, and what they think they can do about the valve noise. They have to replace the OEM headunit, because it doesn't read CD's, and a friend of mine that works in Toyota technical department, told me that my car, in its service history, the headunit has already 3 repairs... I'll drop the news when the problems are solved. Thanks guys!

Now you confused me... If I lift a little bit the throttle at that rev, the engine doesn't fail or lags. What's the problem then? The sensor? "First off has the cam belt been changed, it is due now, if not get it done ASAP! If the cam belt is new, the VVTi uses oil pressure to activate. If the oil change is due then I would get some cheap oil and fill with that, run it for a couple of hundred Km's to flush the system and then change oil and filter for your usual stuff. Also you should change the filter at every oil change they are cheap in any case." I changed the cam belt at 150.000kms, as it should be. Could the mechanic wrongly installed it? Since it's almost new the cam belt, I don't understand what you are saying about cheap oil... Can you explain better please?

Hello guys. I'm from Portugal, and I have a IS200 with 170.000kms. First problem: At 2500rpm, cold or normal drivind or hard driving, the car has a "lag", and sometimes the engine fails, like fuel cuts... It's at small rev band, around 2500rpm to 2550rpm, or 2450rpm to 2500rpm, something like that. Everytime he reaches the 2500rpm spot, he does that. Second problem: When VVT-i "kicks in", about 4200rpm, the engine make a valve noise a bit loud. If I'm with windows closed at 100kmh (60mph), I can ear it a little bit. In a street that the houses from both sides are close, even more loud I can ear it. I can't say what rpm the engine stop making the noise, but I think since the engine itself keeps making the normal reving noise, and I quit earing it, but I guess it should do the noise until the cut (6200rpm). So people, can you help me? What should I check or repare? It's time to change the oil now, but I don't think it's the oil. I use the Motul 300V 10w40 100% Synthetic. Can that be a problem? Also last oil change, I changed the oil filter too. Waiting for your help! Advanced thanks for the reading of this topic!

I won't pay anything, it's the insurance that will pay! I need a complete chassis code of a Altezza that brings the Legana Bumper... Anyone have one here? Sorry guys, but I would really like to install that bumper... Thank You!

I don't need to buy anything, the Insurance will pay it, but the insurance only pay if it's OEM and the invoice comes from Toyota, so I need the PN's. Thanks anyway. Anyone please?! :(

Please guys, help me!!! I asked a friend of mine to take my car to a place, and he had an accident with the car, the whole front is damaged until the radiator, the radiator included. Since the insurance will pay it, I would take the chance to install the "Legana" Bumper if it's TOYOTA Part, I would need the PN to give to the repairer... And the headlights where gone too, and I'm thinking ordering the Headlights with OEM HID included, but I would need the PN of them also, so that the insurance pay it all! Can anyone help me PLEASE?!

Anyone can help me get the Legana Bumper PN please?!

Anyone?