Fatbillslim

the learing values are the long and short fuel trim? or am i wrong?

have you got the code yet something on the lines of catalist or (B1S2) below threshold?

on this subject I have read things like it's recommended that the engine ECU is reset after any engine performance modifications have been made to the vehicle, to accelerate the learning of any new parameters E.G after fitting an air filter the car will learn there is more air coming in to the engine (my personal favorite) it will/may improve fuel economy it lets the car learn how you drive rather then the previous owner and it will set itself up to suit. Please can someone direct me to a reliable source, a book maybe so I can read up and learn all about E.C.M Strategies

how many cats have you lost??

Glad to hear you got it sorted by any chance did you dino before and after with new manifold on??

can you see ecm's live data or have a multi-meater to check new sensor

would it be possible to have the banks crossed? B1S1 in B2S1 ? is it the TRC light that is flashing? next time remove the sensor if it is not in the manifold the car would see a lean signal if the sensor is in fresh air and cause the car to DUMP fuel in on that bank just unplug next time

looks like clutch judder smells like clutch judder, but it not the cluch??? im open to any other offers at what it could be as the flywheels got damping in it (which on a spanner seams quite slack) im thinking i that it could be that unless someone has fitted a solid flywheel and still have the same clutch judder after that. i'd like to know i tryed reseting the ecu :eerrrmm:

Bloody judder, im sure it not the cluch, it the wobbly moving thing it bolted to,

i want a diffrent flywheel not a silly dual mass one, what options have i got??

i'll be there. what does there simulator simulate? driving with WAY over inflated tyers in the rain, after having some tyers fitted? its like driving on glass

My dad has run many labor Clubs now and had people coming in trying to sell magnets for the beer line, as the magnetic force re-aligns the electrons of the beer, so it does not stick to the lines so you don’t need to clean them as often "YEH RIGHT", the last club he took over had these magnets installed, surprise surprise they made no difference, They are marketed diffrentley, but they dont make fuel burn better either ecu-reset, this will reset the catalyst monitoring data and Long and Short Fuel Trim, fuel trim is the adaptation of the ecm for varying sensors and engine efficacy, when the car goes in to closed loop at a given state (load, throttle position, rpm, coolant temp .etc) it expects what the opening time of the injector will be as is changes state, from rich to lean or lean to rich (closed loop) . If the actual opening time is more or less the ecm will add or subtract fuel trim (it learns). what this does is make the car run closer to the correct AFR, if the ecm needs to trim to much it will log a fault and bring on a light . Eg. Bank 1 system too lean. The car will learn very quickly if anything changes.

i had same problem with mine when i removed all 3 cats. i could not find a simulator, i tryed a few things but i ended up wireing the bulb the the battery light, i made about 3 simulators that failed that worked on a few other cars,

Do they BRAKE? Or is that, Do they BREAK? (Or both!) yeh cheers for pointing that out (read sig) i must be a compleat retard if there blowing the led's i'll stay away

Mine judders more when the cluch is getting worn, this time im thinking of replaceing the dual mass flywheel, but with what i dont know