Johan

How about compatibility? Are the LSD for IS200/300 and RS200 exchangable? Could it be they're one and the same even?

If You choose to go nitrous I would recommend a wet system i.e a system that injects both nitrous and fuel. A dry system means you have to rely on the normal fuel and air measuring system to deliver the extra sauce needed to generate extra power. It is fuel and oxygen, not the nitrous gas on it's own, that make hp. Dry means more (unneccessary) limitations and in my opinion it's not as safe as a wet. You dont want to run lean! I feel the extra cash for a wet system is well spent. For the output You are talking about a one nozzle system is all You need. You usually get several different setups, (pills) calibrated for a specific amount of hp. 25, 50, 75 et.c. Do not experiment with setups other than directed!Few things can cause as much damage in such a short time as nitrous. Used correctly it's Your best friend. But handled incorrectly it can be Your worst enemy.

Also curious about transmission and diff compatibility between IS200/300/RS200 so I up this ...

In my opinion nitrous oxide is a very blunt tool for temporary forcefeeding. No matter how sofisticated electronics, no matter how many activation points or if feed is fully sequential from low rpm and up, nitrous is only good for very short periods/distances. It's expensive if You use it a lot and need too refill frequently. More fun and hp per coin than anything else, but it's for "christmas tree" driving only. Not to mention it's the cheapest possible way to create the most expensive damage imaginable if something should go wrong. If I'm not completely lost an extra 30 hp sounds difficult with "add ons" With more engine speed and perhaps a slightly higher compression ratio theres more to find. That is if the moving parts can handle more revs and the cams allow to peak a few hundred or perhaps even a 1.000 rpms further up. A lot of questions need to get answered first. What's the practical limit for the crank? How much will the bearings put up with? The pistons and bolts? When does the valves begin to float? Respiration? Acceptable durability? Top end power versus low and mid range? Hwo can remap the ECU properly? What about lubrication and cooling? Yes every extracted hp would be insanely expensive. Especially if it's never been done before. Revs kill. Then there's the old american truth about cubic inches. But I'm not sure how much joy an extra 0,1 litres would bring. Turbo or supercharger will give more bang for the buck. Still. An all motor 180 hp 1F-GE or a 270 hp "every day" 2JZ-GE would be rather nice. With a redline around 8.000 rpm they would probably sound pretty ok too. If they could be built to last.

With double wishbone suspension it's fairly safe to lower without changing susp. travel geometry. Camber changes are more controlled with wishbone type susp. McPherson struts do not offer that luxury. A little more camber than standard, wich You get when lowering, need not be a bad thing either. Helps putting more outside rubber to the tarmac when cornering. Exessive camber will affect tyre wear and braking though. 40 mm should not affect the handling too bad. If I'm not completely mistaken You cannot adjust camber with IS standard upper A-arms? Nevertheless. Always check wheel alignment, especially toe, after lowering and if You choose wheels with different offset.

You usually get what You pay for. Serious development and testing cost a lot but results in a solid product. Eibach is top notch.

As I understand the 2JZ-GE IS300 come with the same crank and rods as the 2JZ-GTE motor (Supra TT). How far is it ok to push it before the bits start throwing in protests? Will it hold its own up to say 7.500 rpm? Long time, every day normal use, plus the odd track day. If not: any recommendations how to mod it and with what? Valve float, cams et.c. not addressed - yet.

Unfortunately I don't know the answer to either question as we have not done it before, and as far as I know no-one else has either. Normally some-one says "I want it" then it gets made. ← Does anyone here know if there are any cam upgrades for the 1F-GE and 2JZ-GE motors? So far I've only seen 1J- and 2JZ-GTE-compatible stuff of this kind.