Sirnixalot

the early spec mr2's...the body shape before the MRS...the sw10 or whatever the chassis code is came with the non BEAMS 3sge or the 3sgte. i know that the later ones like the 99's did come with the BEAMS 3sge (same as us altezza guys have) but mounted the wrong way lol btw....trust/mitsu turbos suck donkey scrotum, garrett or IHI (though i must admit i am impressed with the evo 9 mr rs's titanium wheeled turbo). A comparable sized garret will always make boost sooner than the mitsu****ty turbo's because mitsu seem to be allergic to ball bearings?

i'd offer you a straight jacket for that :D

I don't follow this Colin? Use mine as an example. (torque x rpm) / 5252 = power. (210 x 4664) / 5252 = 186.49 What does that mean? ← torque = (power x 5252)/rpm torque = (230x 5252)/7380 torque = 164ft/lb

edited my post above but ive sent the cylinder wall pix to my friend just now, he agrees with you on the wrist pin falling out. It points toward installation.

I suppose you wouldnt have appreciated if you posted up about your rather large spoiler breaking off when you hit a staggering 25mph and someone posted "why did you put the damn thing on in the first place, its hideous. I may look slow but at least i get there" I'm not her to turn this into a slow car vs real car fight, this is about her pistons/engine. To be honest i dont see you getting a bad batch of pistons from Toda but its not impossible. There are too many variables to just single out the pistons. What about intallation? You can have the best parts in the world but if they are installed wrong then they will do no good. What cause those deep scrapes? The piston rings look ok to me? Did the piston rotate freely when it was installed on the rod? After having a few of my mechanic friends take a look at those pix i was asked this "That looks like the piston was too large for the bore. Did they have the block honed/bored for the pistons? What was the specified bore on the pistons....an 86.5mm piston forced into an 86mm bore would deffinately cause this. Its either that or a manufacturing defect in the pistons themselves." Good call on the wrist pin Mat, i didnt think of that. I should have shown my friends the bore pix :shutit: Hope you get it sorted

Using cam gears remove the VVTi system...VVTi is constantly adjusting the cam gears/timing

The article was from import tuner. VVTi is engaged ALL THE TIME, its not an on or off type deal. From my understanding VVTi has 2 different modes (dont quote me on this im not sure), low end torque mode and high end power mode. Apparently our systems switch to high end power mode at 4700rpm. The controller adjusts the stock VVTi cam timing maps. I dont see this product giving any super significant gains to any single vvti NA application. But on a boosted single VVTi it would help reduce lag a little. The celica that IT tested their system on had VVTLi, i do not think they touched the cam switch over on the VVTLi (come to think of it im not sure if you can change that point). The HP gains dont look that significant on the BEAMS 3sge either, however the low end torque gains are massive To tune one of these you will need ALOT of dyno time. Basically you just have to try all the settings accross the board and see where each one makes the most power, then combine the settings that make the most power at each point. Here are the base settings from Power enterprise http://ks001.kent-net.jp/~ks001173/main/pr.../data/3S-GE.pdf

What times did you run on the 1/4 mile? ← they didnt ahve the lights out that day. Its not really a proper track, its a private road we are allowed to use on sundays. Judging from the last times i ran (15.65 @89mph) i would say that im running possibly a 15.5ish with the new clutch

wasnt the gearbox...was the diff

Thanks for the quick replies! ...collection only :(, wonder if british airways will let me take it back on the plane

TRD cerametallic + day at the drags = busted gearbox anyone have one laying about?

They are all bolt on kits but forced induction always brings suprises be it small or large. Go for the greddy kit with the intercooler and dont pass 0.65bar....you may be able to get away with 0.8bar but that depends on the quality of your petrol, personally i wouldnt take the rist for an extra 20-30bhp at the cost of my engine. Basically leave the wastegate at what its set at and dont get any boost controllers.

LOL .i know (or used to know) the Nissan pulsar gtir like my own limb. The thermostat is a valve, its closed during colder coolant temps (though it still lets some coolant pass through it) to let the engine get up to temperature. The standard thermostat is fine for a standard engine. When you start making more power this means you make more heat, a "colder" thermostat opens up at a colder temperature to lower the operating temperature.

LOL...if youre a good driver it shouldnt kick in. If you are trying to be a decent road going citizen it "should never kick in", but i can garuntee no one drives like that all the time, even you. Driving smooth and driving fast CAN be two different things but i usually find myself alot smoother when im racing (im not concentrating on my revmatching so proactivley, my body just does it) and a little jerky on the street when im making a concious effort to be smooth. Now just cause im smoother when im racing doesnt meant that the TRC will never kick in...far from it, to get the vehicle round a corner in the fastest posttible maner it will always kick in. The next track day you have, do a lap with TRD on and a lap with it off unless you are like me and have no tracks.... :winky: I can see the problem Am is talking about, the TRD yellows give the car quite a bit more rotation which could lend itself to the situation....not to mention Am has about 80 more bhp than me let alone any dinky is200 The aristo's tration control system is far more advanced than the altezza's (but thne it has to be cause they are freakin tanks).

HKS Hiper or 5zigen fireball please.....i wish the amuse titanium sounded like those