subman

RIP Britprius, feels like yesterday when I seek his advise on GS450h shocks. Sold the car today and came back to delete the ad and saw the name on notice board. Thank you and you will be missed.

I would check 12V battery and see what is voltage over time, when the 12V battery playing up it affect rest of the system and when it affect engine e.g. running rough it dump fuel into exhaust and cause sensor to pick up error at the cat. When the 12V battery on its way out it does not hold charge and when you managed to start the car it charge it up and symptoms goes away until next time when you start up and it drop below the working voltage to run thee computer management system properly Or it could be something completely different as I am not a mechanic just another Lexus lover who had a 12V problem before 😛

I put money on the 12V battery, in fact finger crossed for you and hope it is the 12V battery as it is the cheapest thing to break 🙂

Good to hear it is going to be sorted, I will be selling mine soon but just can't find another car with the power and fuel efficiency to match (within budget), I will be going plug in hybrid so at least I get high torque. I am hoping to get £3500 for it, high mileage 120000 but full service history, last 3 services from Lexus as I got the service plan and with the all important battery warranty. Drives perfect and has the upgraded sound unit, look OEM but with android functions. Front shocks is now GS300 OEM made by KYB, that is the cheapest fix option is anyone have leak or failed shocks.

You could do a test to see if there is a drain to the battery you not aware of or if the battery is at fault. Lead acid battery don't like fully discharged even for a short period, it may never be the same again. A multi meter and some long wire is all you need, and time of course. I no longer have a AGM battery in my 450H, just the normal bosch 12V battery which fit the battery tray and I have a bluetooth battery monitor attached to monitor it so I can top up if I need to around 3-4 weeks without moving it etc.

Green bar? what is that lol....never seen that in London driving

Hi, How often do you see purple bars? I drive 1-2 miles journey a few times a week which I think I got the wrong car for it lol. However, I love the power and quiet idle which is the best of both worlds with little money etc. I see purple bars very often, it will disappear in to blues once it gets going or engine kicks up after standing for a while without moving. I am 1 year into the ownership and still have not had to courage to just switch off the monitoring screen and forget about it 🙂 I say I see green 5%, blue 80% and 15%purple, last time when car went into Lexus service they cannot perform the battery test and told me to return after driven it for at least 300+ miles without the 12V battery going flat (I now have a new battery and a bluetooth monitor to remind me to start the car when it is low etc) Anyone else don't drive your GS450h a lot? seeing purple a lot? Benson

reviving the thread from 2017, where is the 30A fuse which caused the problem?

Thanks steve, Judging by the price I think they are the correct fit for 450H with adjustable dampening I was wondering any member who did replace the front shocks with non adjustable dampening could help me to verify which KYB GS300 one will work incase I waste money buying the wrong one.

My front shocks need replacing and I don't want to get the adjustable version as it is costly and also I never touch that button once since I own the 450h. Are these the one I need from GS 300? https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/kyb/7883334 https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/kyb/7885610 Many thanks

Revive of old thread, my GS450h front shocks are leaking and I can feel the boat effect when stopping ..... Dealer want fix price replacment £795 for both which in relate to the price of the car is not economical. I never touch the suspension button in the year of ownership so fitting GS300 shocks seems to be the way to go for me, unless the leaking shocks can be refurbished then that will be the best option

Yesterday when I start my car there is a loud pop sound coming from the audio speakers, music still works etc. Today when I start my car a softer pop sound but this time audio is gone. All the GPS, music app are still working on screen but the option to adjust sound volume has disappeared. Pressing the vol up and down on the steering wheel control does nothing either. I have disconnected the 12v battery for a few mins and it make no difference once I start the car up again. I have researched on line and found a few discussion about how to fix it, the car is with Lexus today for servicing and once it come back I will have a look at radio 1 and 2 fuse and see it that is the issue. I am good with electronic and soldering but I am not sure if I could replace component on a PCB inside the amplifier. Would love to here from anyone who had this problem and fix

The car is so quiet at times any small rattle annoy the hell out of me....the crazy insulation has its good and bad I suppose. Another pointless benefit of the battery is that you don't pay ULEZ in London which is quite a lot, you get all the performance but yet exempted You MPG seems a bit off but if you drive it like you stole it (honey mood period) then thats not bad at all. I finds the suspension a bit "floaty"...at times it feels like a boat My 450h going in for my first ownership yearly servicing, loved the first year so far but my requirment really suited a BMW 330e plug in instead of 450h In context my car history include Toyota Supra MK4 TT, E46 M3, BMW 4.4 x5, Range Rover with LPG, RX8 .........

Enjoy your car and go burn some fuel, just remember it is a performance hybrid so if you are hot on the accelerator it will still cost you 🙂 Grin on face, priceless

I had problem with my GS450H where the battery is old and last owner wired dash cam to the permanent on 12V.... Anyway, sorted that and posted a video on the net, I now have a bluetooth battery monitor wired to the battery. It only draws 1mA and can sent voltage to my phone, it tracks battery voltage all the time and plot it as a graph. I got it from Amazon for £30 but I seen it much cheaper on the bay. Shouldn't need one if there is nothing draining the battery or drive it at least 1 every few weeks, but car batteries suffers sulfation once voltage fall below 11V for a period of time. Our cars don't need the battery to crank the engine hence the smaller battery but it is an expensive battery not to take proper care of.

Left the BOSCH S4 008 in the car, will see how it goes. Battery drain now at 30mA which is acceptable.

I managed to find my parasitic drain which makes my 12v battery drained after just a few days of non driving. Will post a video up soon but during my investigation and research I found a Bluetooth battery monitor which connect to your phone. The app can monitor battery voltage and keeps a log and update you on your phone, very handy for monitor voltage drop over time or if your alternator is charging your battery while driving etc. It is no point putting in a good battery and not fix the problem, if it drains and left low voltage it will get sulfation and not hold charge after. Will post a YouTube video on checking parasitic battery drain and the battery monitor soon. https://amzn.to/37M9k1c £29.99 prime next day from amazon. Cheaper on ebay and under other brand but takes longer delivery

I am following this thread and also an earlier "alternate battery option for 450h" Since I got the car the battery gets drained if not driven, at first every 3 weeks, then every 2 weeks and recent cold weather every few days.....put another battery in it (non AGM) and still the same. Finally I got to do the parasitic drain test with my multi meter and found the problem, the dash cam was plugged into a fuse slot where there is permanent live 12v. I left the non AGM battery in my car now and added a bluetooth battery monitor to the car, it only draws 1mA and resting current draw for the car after fix is 30mA with the bluetooth monitor. We only drive the car at weekends and having a charger plugged in is a bit of a hassle as we don't have a garage and charge outdoor on the drive etc. The battery monitor connects to my phone, I can access the store data log in my sitting room when the app is running. Will post a YouTube video soon

When I get the tyre shop to change out my aftermarket sensor it stop the low tyre message straight away, without driving it at all.

You are right after all, that sensor did not work, at the end the the £23.99 is what I used to solve my problem. https://amzn.to/2ZEPLE1 Autel Programmable Universal TPMS Sensor Dual Frequency (315MHz + 433MHz) I also find out that if you press the pressure reset button it will start the ECU initiation, this will stop TS to communicate with the ECU hence you will not be able to code. I left it overnight and tried it again in the morning and I can code again..... Headache to do it yourself and once I have the time I will make a guide for the forum as it is a ball ache to nav through all the information on the net. I now have to coding pad so I am happy to code sensor for anyone needed etc. Benson

I have one of my sensor stopped working, there is check system warning on the dash, when I took out the sensor and try to replace the battery it was all corroded inside so have to be replaced. Before throwing that in the bin I connected a new battery to it and it does not work. I had a cheap VCI cable which let me read the TPMS ID etc and I know which is faulty as it has no signal reading. I bought a AUTEL USB pad to write code to AUTEL sensor with the ID4 OEM code which did not work, Still check system error. I then bought this £10 sensor from amazon https://amzn.to/2Lk20kg and tried to code that to the car. the software with the VCI cable will not write code, giving some ECU communication error. After lots and lots of research on line I found out that VCI cable have firmware and cheap cables all have 1.4v and that will allow reading off ECU only. Slightly more expensive cable have different chip and with 2.04v firmware. A few cable purchases later I managed to get into the coding function. For some reason the AUTEL sensor with orginal code now decided to work, I then try and write the code of the £10 sensor into the ECU and it worked too...... A bonus tip from me and I guess I have to wait and see how long it will stay working is that the £10 sensor is in my glove box with a big metal clip clamped onto it and it show 300kbp, this stop the check system without having to install the sensor into the wheel. This is not well documented and took me weeks of researching online to find a thread on toyota forum for Pirus cars. I hope this will help anyone who don't want to pay the hundreds at dealers. A youtube video will be uploaded soon Benson

I have one of my sensor offline according to techstream, thinking of replacing the battery as it is easy to do. Would this from the bay work? knowing my luck the nut and valve must likely stuck to the rim and break when I touch it 😛 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PMV-C010-For-Toyota-Scion-Lexus-315MHZ-TIRE-Air-PRESSURE-SENSOR-TPMS-Monitoring/173924102967?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3D581570aed1f84ba9a9fadc8e7542f019%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D312534234161%26itm%3D173924102967%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109 Benson

Thanks Herbie, Now my rear camera stopped working :0

Went to dealer today and installed a second hand compressor, air con works again now 😉