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Everything posted by legendswraith

  1. The body is a single piece and the casing is a rear shell and front bezel. I seem to recall that they are slightly different in shape with the mk1 being a shade squarer. I have a set of the electric folding mk1 aristo plus controllers which have been around for years in the shed
  2. Anything is possible I keep watching lots of Iron Resurrection and Goyhsm Garage and I really want to put a coyote engine with a blower in or a hellcat crate engine but that's pipe dreams atm. And yes Austin is me
  3. febest do alot of GS and Aristo parts for brakes and sus. Brake calipers are the same if I recall correctly unless you popped supra ones on same as me. I also believe mk5 Golfs use the same caliper on the front from a side by side exam
  4. The car is very tatty at the moment as it has sat for so long without being used hence why I am doing a whole refurbishment of the suspension from the ground up and why its going to get kitted and wrapped eventually. TBH besides the fact lockdown gave me a lot more time it was also because I saw how much aristos were going for, even 2jz-gtes look to be a minimum of 4k. I think I may vaguely remember you from the Wicksteed JAE
  5. well work got busy and slowed me down but its all now reassembled and on the car again. Calipers are now acid green as well to compliment the suspension arms and arb. Diff back in tomorrow then its on to cleaning up the hubs and cleaning up the brake shields. For anyone who is thinking of using the prothane kit be very aware that they are not like superpro bushes for the rear lower arms you need to retain the shell in the arm. I had to get some new standard bushes and burn out the rubber and refit the shell. Otherwise the kit in terms of installation is pretty easy.
  6. Wrap arrived got carried away, it's not like you'll ever see it unless you really really want to and have a jack
  7. Now in holding pattern until tomorrow for some carbon fibre wrap as I am going to put some wrap onto areas that are more prone to stone chips on the acid green parts (bit like a bike chain protector) and I need Prothane to send me some missing lower arm bushes
  8. Making progress now and getting very close to getting it all reassembled and back onto the car. In hindsight I think I would have just removed the hubs then dropped everything else with the subframe. The subframe and arms have been cold galvanised and then painted with buzzweld classic chassis gloss or Porsche Acid Green. Bushes are Prothane for the suspension arms and strongflex for the subframe. Removing the bushes was a mix of drilling and hacsawing through before drifting out for the arms and the subframe were burned out with the help of some thinners. Just need to tart up the diff and get some replacement bolts Jury is out on replacing the boots with the supplied plly ones
  9. Subframe and arms etc are now out of derust and jet washed down, now onto the stripping. I have decided to go with poly subframe bushes and for all those looking for uk source bushes try strongflex. Once I have everything down as far as possible and prepped the lot is getting cold galvanised prior to the first coat of black chassis paint (probably buzzweld) when that's dry the arms will be over sprayed in green. Just going to source a whole new suite of passivated bolts while I am at it
  10. So managed to crack on today as I now have all the parts and new ball joints sets to fit. Hubs are off both side at the rear and passenger rear is stripped back to the upper rear wishbone due to the fact the boy turned the head on the aft bolt. So tomorrow will be splitting the legslis r zausts stripping out the rest of the drivers side rear then dropping the subframe. Components are all in derust now ready to be wire brushed then tarted up a funky colour (probably end up black). The more I get under it the more I want to do....
  11. If it's so dead it wont charge put jumpers on it to another good battery and then try to charge. I charged my aristo battery like this after 7 years being stood still.
  12. Hey Guys, As I have just restarted the car after a looooong time of it being dormant I am about to go through quite a large amount of refreshing and upgrading of different components as I go. I am going to try and split these between the relevant forums as I have found there isn't that much around on certain things and as the JZS161 is common to Aristo and GS300 I thought going here would be a plan as I bet there are definately more GS than Aristos now. So the plan is to pull the entire suspension to pieces and refurb completely, all the way down to the subframe bushes. I will be replacing everything with poly bushes with perhaps some exceptions however I have no idea if the TRD hardened rubber ones are still around. The car sits on Tein monoflexs which will be coming off and going back to be returned which is the one thing I wont be doing myself as I doubt its economically viable without all the tooling. At the moment I have the poly bushes, new lower ball joints for the front lowers and the rear uppers are in the post. The ones I am really pondering are the front wishbones which are an assembly. I am considering getting these out and finding a way of replacing but have yet to assess and see what it entails and if there are any similar balljoint assys that I could use if I get the old ones out and have some suitable machining carried out. Other than that when everything's off I want to get it painted but struggling with what to use at the moment unless I use black paint and I was looking for something a bit louder. Anyway hopefully I will remember this and put something useful in here and with pictures as I go along
  13. Hey guys, after a long departure from posting and working on the car I am now back with some time to start getting the car on the road. Previously I had a mk1 NA GS300 but I moved on to the Aristo V300 vertex which has been sat still for the past 8 years due to changes in jobs and lots of travelling and as you know a modded V300 does not like to be a commuter car as it returns terrible mileage. I have got it back up and running this weekend, after 7 years without a start it went after charging the battery, changing the fuel and cleaning the plugs first turn of the key, so now begins the road to getting an MoT and progressing on with all of the things that have been on the back burner for such a long time. As I have been out of the loop I will have a ton of questions on the who what where and whens of what is good and what is not but at the moment the plan will be to get the perishables done and some general tidying up carried out as its all a bit tatty at the moment. Catch you on the forums
  14. Alright Keith, If its the pump bearing thats gone you can replace the bearing on its own and buy the seal kits from toyota rather than replace the pump. The bearing for the mk2 is 6203.2RSR which you can get from for under £5
  15. I am going to assume there will be another thread opened about this but i'll post it here anyway. I went to my first JAE a few years ago and met quite a few people there and had a great time with LOC. I've now moved over to the aristo and as such i spend more time on the aristo/supra forums due to the tech posts etc and only look in here very infrequently. However believe it or not the recent upsets that have gone on within the club have been broadcast further than just this forum and from an outside or neutral perspective by not turning up or at the very least not having a stand when one was booked, the club has lost alot of face and credability. Seriously, however this has started a line needs to be drawn under it and any further thoughts of retribution etc, be it by censorship or by verbally attacking anyone else should stop before they start. It was dissapointing not to be able to see what people had got upto with their cars and after so long away without knowing what projects had gone on i was quite looking forward to it, unfortunately it didn't happen. I apologise to any of the LOC members that did turn up as i spent quite a bit of time under the hood of a supra rather than at the aristo stand so i wasn't there to chat with if you came over. I sincerely hope you get this sorted for next JAE or before people see more politics than talk about the cars
  16. Thought exactly the same as the LOC stand was supposed to be next to the Aristos There was one very lonely IS200 there on Friday but apart from that didn't see a soul and i did wander around most of the site
  17. Well after 7 weeks of waiting i finally got the car back from the bodyshop, and to say the least i am not best pleased. The reglassed bonnet does not close properly so i am going to have to pin it to make it look ok, the roof they replaced they sprayed but anything other than that around the roof like little nicks and dents they didn't bother with, bolts from the headlights were missing and i had to ask for more to be put in and a rear tint is ruined. Basically they have done the bare minimum possible to do the repair and the guy had the cheek to chuck a strop when i told him the bonnet was gash and tell me to leave it and he'd get a standard one fitted. Well after 7 weeks i just took the car mainly because i am sick of waiting for it but also because i don't want my car in their care. Think i will be complaining to the insurance over the quality of their bodyshops. However so its not all one sided the spraying that was done (what little of it there is) was good and it matched well and the guy who glassed the bonnet wasn't really happy with it but i think he was following the party line. So if you want my advice i would avoid Smith and Hughes in Nuneaton for work on anything thats imported or different, i really would not recommend them for anything. I'll probably take it to Vidak in Nuneaton to sort it out properly i just hope they do a better job.
  18. Decat is the big one and the air filter to start with breathing more easily gets the ponies flowing. You don't have to opt for an expensive cone type either you can jsut get a panel filter there isn't much in it. Fairly definitive list for the basic stuff aido has given you and all of it is fairly easy to do on your own without a garage intervening. Don't be scared of fitting an electronic boost controller either its easier than it looks, and whatever you do please don't go down the cheap mod route with upping the boost the t bleeder mod is a no no. Also typing supra into ebay can be your friend for engine bits ;)
  19. depends on which GS it is. If its a mk1 jzs147 then you are better off scrapping it unless you really want the car. The mk2 jzs161 might make it more economically viable to do an engine swap. Good source of n/a 2jzs is the supra owners club ;) and would imagine off ebay its 3-500 for a ge lump shame as i scrapped a gs with a good engine not long back
  20. Thats an aristo which is like a sport but faster :D if ever i am flogging something you're on commission straight away aido lol
  21. Just send me a picture of what needs doing. The studio is not MK but close!! need to draw it all out first may take a while lol
  22. worst comes to the worst just file the flutes off the side of the key then it will fit (theoretically)
  23. This is possibly the best venue since the EoE showground when i move in april i will only be 10min drive from wikki :D which by my calculations is about an hour and a half drunken stumble
  24. Interesting i need some touch up work done and i think milton keynes is closer than kings lynn, got a rough idea on a price of the inside half of the arm to finish off a full sleeve at all ( i know its a how longs a piece of string question )
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