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    Altezza RS200 Tip, IS200 Sport
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  1. The usual workshop disclaimers apply, if you are not sure or don't have the tools don't do the job, this is a vital component on your car. If not done correctly the front wheel could just plain come off. Seems to be a common problem with our cars so I thought I would post this to give a guide. First apply the handbrake, "crack" the wheel nuts on the side you are doing and then jack the car up and support on an axle stand. Use the wheel "chock" (foldable wedge thing from the toolkit) under the opposite rear wheel. Jack up the opposite side front so that the tyre is just clear of the ground (This allows you to turn the steering freely if the steering lock is off). Remove the wheel. Step 1 - With the steering lock off move the wheel to full lock with the front of the wheel outside the arch and remove the ABS sensor. It can be a pig to get out as the grease makes a seal, just rotate and work at it and it will come out, tuck it away at behind the ABS sensor cable at the front of the suspension strut. Once removed I put the bolt back in so as not to lose it! Next centre the steering and engage the steering lock, locate the 2 bolts underneath that hold the hub assembly to the ball joint/steering arm this is the one at the rear and there is a similar one to the front of the pivot. Use a long "breaker bar" to crack the bolts. Get some rope and tie to the top of the coil spring, remove the bolts and lift the whole hub assemble off the spigots and support with the rope ensuring that you put no strain on the flexible brake pipe. (In this pic you can see the ABS sensor coming off the clamp bracket on the suspension strut) Remove the split pin and nut from the track rod end, I put it back on upside down to protect the thread during the next stage in case the ball joint splitter slipped. (Note the WD40 all over the place here) Use a ball joint splitter to remove the track rod end. It will probably go with a loud bang so be be prepared, it will be noisy but not damaging. Remove the split pin from the ball joint main nut. Use that long breaker bar to crack the nut.. Then remove the nut and the track rod. Ball joint splitter comes into play again, you may need to hammer the "fork" to get it in place. Looks easy but I had to use a good fashioned fork and hammer to get this one out. Put the new ball joint in and torque to 123Nm If the split pin won't go through tighten or loosen the nut the least amount possible until you can get a new split pin through the hole. I always prefer to go tighter if it is 50/50 on the nearest slot. Replace the track rod end and torque to 54Nm, same again for the split pin (always use a new one, an assorted box is a couple of quid from Halfaruds) Replace the hub assembly ensuring that it engages on the spigots on the ball joint arm Replace the hub assembly bolts and tighten in turn to a torque of 113Nm Replace the ABS sensor and the wheel nipping up the wheel nuts, drop the car back to the ground and torque the wheel nuts to 105Nm in a "diagonal" pattern. Don't forget to check the wheel nuts after a few miles and it is job done :
  2. Hi All, not been on here for a while. Ex Mrs Mac #2 managed to back into a neighbour,s car and broke the passenger side rear light. It is the original silver type and I konw that lots have changed to the "smoked" ones on here. Anyone got an old one in the back of the garage they want shot of? Ta
  3. Know that this is a old thread but only just read it cos not been on here for a long time! Only taken me 7 years but finally I understand :-)
  4. I would start with cleaning the spark plugs, short run may have "fouled" them. Had the same thing with the Tezza and just replaced all the plugs anyway, still OK so far.
  5. More likely the cambelt is not properly fitted, could be a tooth out making the VTTi adjustment go "out of range".
  6. Hi and welcome to LOC :) Lovely car but really needs a bit of lowering
  7. You need THE DOCTOR if you lower the car the negative camber puts all the load on the insides of the tyres. So if adjustable he will correct the camber as much as possible.
  8. How far did you lower it? Too much negative camber will do the insides of the tyres, forget tracking you need a geo check.
  9. Hi and welcome to LOC :) Can we take it that it was the fronts that you did both times? I would doubt that you bought 2 sets of warped disks. Have you checked that the hubs are clean, the caliper pins are free and that you don't have a "sticky" caliper?
  10. About 6 months between the pics as well? Agree on the wheels though, the rears are different in the pics.
  11. Wait till you try to slam it in 1st and hit reverse instead. Then when you drop the clutch and hit the car behind tell me you don't need it!
  12. That was a great read, wonder that I did not pick up on this thread before. Lovely work and a great looking and sounding car you got there.
  13. Very disappointing for you. I would have been raging mad having travelled all that way. Seems a bit strange that they mapped it without even fixing the ECU in the engine bay. Sounds like the install was not complete and the mapping probably not done. Hope for better news soon :-)
  14. Like Tony said I think the warning is oil pressure. I would assume that the air temperatures and fairly low where you are right now, if so 5W40 should be ok. Top the oil up as I know that when the level is lowish in my car it will light up when braking because the oil is moving around in the sump.
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