gsportcars

Take one of the wheels of and check if the offset is stamped on the back of one of the spokes somewhere. It should say et45 or et 40 etc etc. It is the number you are looking for.

No, the Auto models have a slightly different speedo layout than the manual in that they have a gear indicator on the right hand side I think. If you are wondering will an auto speedo fit in a manual or vice versa then deffo no. From looking at the diagrams they have considerably different wiring from eachother.

I don't have many big plans for the ISupra other than to get it finally running right and mapped. couple of things I would like to get are new staggered wheels with as wide as I can get tires for the rear. It also needs some tidying like new headlight as the current ones are only fit for the bin, a custom made radiator expansion bottle, new steering wheel and if I'm lucky a nice set of bucket seats. Getting that lot sorted in the next year would be a feat in itself as I also have to pay of the debts I have from doing the engine swap in the first place LOL.

It's as simple as this. If you loosen off the screw then there will be less pre-load pressure on the spring and hence it will open sooner ie; at lower boost. How much lower it will go is the real question. It may not be enough and a new spring or actuator may still be needed. The variable one that Stav has mentioned may be worth looking at as it should tell what range of boost it will give.

All IS200's have clutch judder mate. You need to use more revs when pulling away from standstill and it won't do it. And yes you do need a new friction plate. As for the movement in the flywheel.....It is bolted directly to the engine/crank so there should not really be any free movement I don't think. It should feel pretty stiff/solid. get a large socket onto the front crank pulley at the opposite end of the engine and see if it also turns freely like the flywheel.

On some actuators you can adjust the spring pressure via a screw. Similar to how you would adjust the spring in a dump valve etc. If yours isn't like that then you will need a different actuator with a weaker spring.

Standard 1g-gte block is good for around 1.2bar of boost from an average size turbo (T28 etc etc)

As far as I'm aware, the only aftermarket fron wings made for our cars are the chargespeed ones. Can be seen here.... http://www.srbpower.com/chargespeed/lexus/...zza-fullkit.php The wald kit is not actually front wings but extended wheel arches.

I am even more glad to here you guys on the mainland are as impressed with the price because would pay in N.Ireland on average about £1000+ over and above what you would pay for any car because of the fact that there are more cars to choose from over there.

very nice indeed man. Makes my new plat ic addition look rather tame in comparison LOL. Also noticed the cream interior which I've never seen on plat ice. Hope your happy with it when you get it.

There's someone selling genuine toyota ball joints on ebay if it helps. Dunno if they are much cheaper than from the dealer though as I've never priced them.

Picked it up yesterday. 1999 IS200 se Platinum Ice (the only colour she would have in an IS for some reason) 127K FSH 1 owner from new Factory rear tints re-conditioned alloys Bought the car for a staggering £3500. The paintwork is in near perfect condition with only just one or two slightly noticable stone chips on the bonnet. I bought the car in the knowledge that it needs a clutch slave cylinder which I conveniently have from my old gearbox anyway so I will fit that this weekend. It could prob do with a couple of tyres soon but apart from that the car is perfect. Initial plans for the car are to lower it and fit a TRD or TTE kit with maybe some parts in carbon. After that there will be a tasteful set of 18" or 19" alloys. I will be fitting an intake and exhaust and if I can find one for the right money I may supercharge it but they are getting a bit more expensive now. Here are a couple of pics but it was dark and just after a quick wash. I will get more up soon.

I have one here from my IS200. The same 6speed box is used in both. I can ship it ok at whatever cost and work with you on the price of shipping against the price of the box.

I have never heard of a running in time for a sound system. You should be able to just plug and play. Although someone more knowledgeable might say different.

ssshhh.... i didnt want everyone to know :D oooooops forgot Wow Bazz.................. This mean you are finally gonna get rid of the 200?????????? Can't say I would argue with your decision if i read the situation correctly........

Cheers guys. Just glad I finally got it fitted as the boot looked terrible with old bonding on there as well as bits of tape to cover the three holes from the spoiler LOL.

Finally got the spoiler finished and fitted onto the car. To be honest it doesn't initially look much different from the standard TRD spoiler that it used to be but it has been doubled is size. It now hangs further out over the rear and also flicks up slightly higher to. Heres the pics anyway although it does need cleaned. That is the exterior of the car pretty much finished at least for now anyway. I do want to change the wheels in the future though for something a bit more dishy maybe.

Cheers man. That would be spot on. Spoke to toyota today and they have never heard of anything like it happening before. I reckon the gauge is just in amazement at how quickly the petrol is dissapearing as it is going fairly quickly LOL.

Nope....... The fuel gauge still reads correctly but the red light just flashes all the time. The fact that it doesn't start flashing as soon as the engine is started suggests to me that it is the car that is detecting a fault and not just a dodgy connection or something. I know that Ray hall had problems with his fuel gauge after fitting the supra engine but his gauge only read either 1/4 or 1/2 or 3/4 or a full tank. He now sets his trip meter each time he fills up and wits until he sees 175miles before he fills again. I don't have this problem though as my gauge reads fine. Must be somthing else happening.

Since completing the supra engine conversion and starting the car up for the first time I have had a prob with the petrol reserve light. When I initially start the car up it stays off but after about 30secs to a minute it starts to flash on and off constantly and won't stop. This happen whether the tank is full or empty and when on the reserve fuel the light is still flashing. I know I have made a lot of changes to the car but I have not changed anything to do with this other than the fuel return line and the uprated walbro pump. Even at that, The return line and pump were already fitted for my previous turbo conversion and the light never flashed before with that setup. I am wondering if it could be a factory warning or if there is some reason for it that I could be overlooking???? any help is much appreciated.

My new turbo finally arrived after yet another long wait. That is all I seem to do with this car.......wait for parts and other people to finish work etc etc :tsktsk: Anyway turbo is fitted. Couple of pics although the night vision was on when they were taken so they ain't the best quality. Some may also have noticed the addition of an in-line oil filter for the turbo. This is simply a small insurance policy in the form of a fitting which contains a gauze filter to stop any dirt etc getting into the turbo. It is easily removable so it can be cleaned regularly if needed. I have now fitted a TRD low temp thermostat as the engine temps were reading around 91-92degrees which is quite high. although I haven't got the laptop on since fitting the thermostat I can already notice the drop in temps from simply opening the bonnet. I am now just waiting to get another mapping attempt underway but I know that Jonny (mapper) is busy moving to his new workshop so it will prob be a week or 2 before that happens. In the meantime I have a very tiny fuel leak in one of the fittings on my fuel rail so A new fitting is needed there and I also want to get a custom made radiator resovior tank made up as I have a silly plastic kit car type bottle at the minute which serves its purpose but is cheap tacky and looks terrible. I have also contacted Tony from wheels in motion about getting my geometry setup but as I am in NI this could be a prob. Although he has asked me to get a geo print out so he can help me out.

send someone else into the dealers to get it. Or you could buy a TRD filter which is apparently the same genuine toyota filter re-badged as TRD from Prolex.

you can fill your rad via the rad cap but you just need to make sure that when your rad is full that the right amount of coolant is in your resovior bottle like mentioned above. If there is too much then it will overflow when the engine is hot but that is no big deal as there is an overflow pipe for that reason. If there is too little then you could get an air lock in your system when the engine cools as it will draw air back into the system instead of water. Be sure not to open your rad cap when the engine is hot.

Yeah man I'd love to get to the ring at easter but the money will most likely be the problem. I'm keeping an eye on the thread anyway.

I thought it about time to revive this thread again seeing as I have 5 mins to myself LOL Well there have been a few ups and downs since the last update. First off I went for a mapping session to get the car running properly. After driving about 20-30miles to meet with my mapping guy and with no running problems the whole way there, we got to rigging up the laptop and Air/fuel meter etc etc etc..... We left for a drive and got no further than 100yards before the car suddenly started to cut out intermittently causing a very jerky ride. The problem was immediately diagnosed as an intermittent cam shaft signal. I had not realised before that I had to use shielded wire for the cam and crank sensors as they are prone to interferance from other electronic devices. When the camshaft signal cuts out the ECU doesn't know what position the engine is at so it therefore simply can't tell the injectors or spark plugs what to do at all which causes the engine to stop alltogether. So I had to quite literally limp all the way home again and very nearly didn't make it as the problem got worse all the way back. From a few days before this had happened I also noticed a considerable amount of blue smoke coming from the exhaust which did get worse over time. After limping the car home again I decided to get the problems sorted. I took off my induction kit and gave the turbo shaft a little wiggle and what I suspected was true. The bearings and seals had gone in the turbo as there was considerable shaft play. Now for some ups...... Before removing the turbo I had to re-wire the cam and crank sensors with shielded wire. With this done I took the car for a quick drive and that was one problem cured!!!! I stripped the turbo off the car and gave it to a friend who rebuilds turbos. As the turbo was a cheap unit and only worth about £100 or so I told him to just have a look at it to diagnose the damage. It turns out the thrust bearing was shagged as were the seals. This would have been easily fixed if the bearing housing hadn't been bored out to fit an oversized bearing :duh: (damn stupid yanks). There was now no bearing available to fit the turbo so a new bearing housing was needed at a cost of approx £150. Needless to say that turbo is now on its way to the bin. So, after 3 weeks of searching I found the right turbo............ It's a Garrett T66, standard journal bearing, polished compressor housing, heat treated (coated) exhaust housing, anodised back plate. The seller seems to think this turbo will support 700-800bhp but I doubt it will do that with out a struggle. I do know however that I will get a comfortable 600bhp with no issues B) . The turbo should have arrived by now but it hasn't due to the lazy postmen in this country. Another thing I have been working on is my spare wheel well in the boot. As I mentioned previously in the thread I had to cut quite a sizeable chunk of metal out of my spare wheel well in order to allow the secong exhaust pipe to exit at the desired/correct angle. The cutting itself was very simple as things usually are with an angle grinder . The problem came when trying to patch up the hole again. this is due to the very very awkward shape of the wheel well. I also decided to cover the boot with sound deadening as the engine/exhaust noise was quite loud before. I used E-dead which can be got from ebay. It is the same stuff as dynamat but at a fraction of the price. Here's a couple of pics of the newly welded and sealed boot with the sound deadening installed..... I have now covered nearly all the boot with this stuff and have also nearly finished re-installing my boot build. I will get more pics of the finished setup and post them in the ICE section. More to follow..........