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Brand new set of OEM Lexus IS250/220d luxury carpet mats. Never used. With embossed Lexus name stitched on in gold. For RHD models only Dark grey/black. £75

Does anyone know where to get replacement wing mirror glass for a 2017 IS300H other than from Lexus direct and does anyone know if it’s the same size and fit as previous IS300H models or any other IS models such as the 200 or 250? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Not sure what happened. I followed the package instructions to the tee. I think the protectant did not dry properly? It was sticky after a few hours. I didn't drive the car until the next day. Kept it in shade and covered from rain. The headlights felt dry the next day. However after a few hours in the sun they felt blotchy. 24hrs later this is the result. They feel grainy and gross now. What can I do? Do I sand off the protectant and start again? PXL_20240213_215417892.mp4

Recently, I had to let go of my BMW 5 series (2010) because of some pricey engine problems. After doing a lot of research, I decided to go with a Japanese car because they're known for their reliability, and I stumbled upon this gem. It has a great service history, low mileage, and a clean MOT record, my decision. When I took it for a test drive, I was impressed by how comfortable and smooth it was compared to my old BMW (seriously, I couldn't believe it) I'm hoping it'll last a long time with proper maintenance. While it might not be the fastest car, and there could be some expected issues like carbon build-up and potentially replacing the alternator, I'm really pleased with its overall performance and comfort. Despite its age, it's still equipped with some great features, although I'm already thinking about some upgrades like installing a new head unit for Android Auto/CarPlay, upgrading the headlights, and getting sleek black rims.

Hi all, I own a 2009 (58) Lexus IS250 SR. Recently a squeaking sound has developed whenever I drive over potholes/uneven road surfaces. It seems to be coming from within the dashboard driver side, more toward the corner/pillar. I’ve tried pushing against the dashboard while driving over uneven surfaces to see if it was loose but that doesn’t work. Any ideas/opinions are most welcome! It’s driving me nuts. If you can’t see the video, let me know. Cheers IMG_7143.mov

Hi Guys and Gals, A few weeks back I got a set of 4 new Goodyear Eagle Ace 6 F1 Tires for my car but ever since getting them fitted, the car just doesn't feel right at all. To cut a long story short I've had the tracking and balancing redone by an independent, basically to make hardly any difference; so I asked Goodyear for advice. I inevitably took it back to the original place who fitted the tires to get "some checks done" and they also did a wheel alignment and balancing, apparently the tracking was off as the front wheels both had their toe pointing outwards. So after the work was completed, I tried driving the car but it still didn't feel very balanced; I gave it a few days thinking it was a placebo of being "OK" but ultimately it's no different. When on the motorway I feel as if I'm always slightly fighting the car from going left as if I'm always putting weight on the wheel kind of like a weight is on the right side pulling it down, the tracking seems alright if I keep the wheel straight as it does go straight but it seems to drift left getting progressively worse until I have to inevitably grab and steer back. One thing I also noticed is there's also slight vibrations through when wheel at pretty much all speeds although it feels like it's only coming from the right side which is odd, as it's not massive noticeable like the balancing is off but there's definitely a weird feeling as if it's fidgeting somewhat. I just put this down to new tires giving better road feel though as my old ones I had were ER300s by Bridgestone originally fitted by Lexus. In addition to the drifting the car seems to also turn left whoever I hit a pothole, the wheel will centre basically instantly if I turn left, but if I turn right the car feels more eager to turn in but the wheel doesn't return as fast as it does when turning right; in fact it kind of sits a few degrees off centre to the right and never returns to full centre. I'm totally confused as to where I should go next as this problem seems to be getting kicked down the road, I originally left my car at the tire place who fitted them originally "who are a chain" for two days and all they did is the tracking and wheel balancing; so I'm losing all hope due to the fact it's so bad to drive and I just want it sorted. Does anyone have any ideas on what areas to look for or what I should be asking from the original tire fitters? p.s Sorry for the war and peace, it's all making me very sad.

Hello, everyone, I'm considering purchasing a 2007 Lexus IS250, but upon reviewing the photos, I noticed a dual-tip exhaust on one side, rather than the usual one exhaust on each side (I've attached a photo of the listing). What could be the reason for this? Is it the result of an accident or just an aftermarket modification? Additionally, I input the VIN number (JTHBK262005047425) into CarVertical, and it revealed no recorded damage or issues. However, it provided only a partial report, stating: 'We noticed that this report is not as informative as usual, There can be two reasons for that: • you've made a typo when entering the VIN - please double-check it; • there isn't enough data available from the manufacturer and other information sources.' The owner claims the car is a 2007 model, but based on the VIN, it appears to be from 2005, doesn't it? For clarification, I haven't seen the car yet, and it's possible that the VIN number provided by the owner might be a typo. Cheers!

Hi, and welcome to the story so far of my IS250. I figured since I have started to change a few things, and with some more mods & upgrades planned, I should probably keep tabs on my progress and try and document as much as possible. I enjoy reading this kind of thing about other people's cars, so hopefully you will too. If nothing else, it'll be something useful for the next owner to have a gander at when I eventually part company with it. So, the car then. It's an Argento Ice (1G1) 2011 F-Sport with optional Navigation unit, and it's an automatic of course. I traveled just under 200mls by train, to Darlington, to buy it from a thoroughly nice chap and fellow LOC member in late August 2016. This is my third Lexus IS and my second IS250 F-Sport in a relative short space of time. The previous one being a 2010 model in the rare Sable Metallic (4T5) but this was sadly written-off inside a year with only 27K on the clock. Finding another low-miles F-Sport to replace it proved to be quite difficult and after a couple of months of fruitless searching I was starting to give serious consideration to buying something else. Then one day, someone on the forum announced that they were selling-up... Being honest, silver was not my 1st-choice when looking for a replacement. In fact it was probably near the bottom of the pile in terms of desirability, but the price was just too good to ignore and it sounded like a great car - one owner (a LOC member, no less), 36K miles, FSH & it had been kept in a garage since new. At this point I was thoroughly fed-up of having to borrow other people's cars to get around so I was prepared to compromise and a deal was quickly struck. On the day I arrived to see the car in the flesh for the first time, any misgivings I had about the colour disappeared the minute I pulled-up to the seller's house in a taxi. It was a gloriously sunny day and the IS looked absolutely amazing, sitting there, spotlessly-clean on the driveway. I knew right then and there that I would be going home in it. I quickly told the driver to keep the change because I couldn't wait to exit the taxi and have a closer look. After chatting with the seller over a cuppa and pouring over the car's history and piles of receipts, it was evident that the car had been well looked-after since the day it was purchased from Lexus Nottingham in April 2011. The test drive was pretty short. Just a mere formality really as I was already very familiar with how an IS250 behaves on the road and there was nothing to be concerned about, so the deal was finalised over another cuppa and then the car was mine. There was a generous amount of fuel still left in the tank at the point of sale, but I brimmed the car at Scotch Corner services and planned the journey home on the sat-nav. The obvious choice would've been to head up the A1, but I wasn't in a hurry so instead I headed west on a relaxed cruise along the A66 towards Penrith where I would join the M6, and then subsequently the M74 as I crossed the border before eventually turning off at Abington services in the Clyde Valley to join one of my favourite driving roads, the A702. This is a road that I'm very familiar with and it has it all; great scenery, sweeping fast corners, dips, rises, a few sleepy towns & villages to cruise through, twisty technical sections and plenty of long straights and clear sightlines for overtaking opportunities. Best of all, there's no speed cameras so you can really explore the limits of whatever you're driving. Taking in this road whilst getting to know my new car truly was the icing on the cake. (forgive my lengthy into and waffling but I really did enjoy the whole buying experience of acquiring this car, so I thought I would share it...) Anyway, here's a couple of pics from the sales ad showing how the car looked before I bought it. My first six months or so with the car were fairly uneventful. It had just been serviced, MOT'd and kitted-out with a new set of tyres shortly before it went up for sale, so all I had to do was get it taxed and enjoy it. My first modification (if you can call it that), was in November when I prepped the car for the miserable Scottish winter weather - by swapping out the OEM floor mats for the set of genuine Lexus rubber mats that were included with the car, and by switching to winter tyres. The winter setup was a carry-over from my previous IS250 consisting of 18" 3rd-gen F-Sport wheels shod with 225/40F / 245/40R Pirelli Sottozero 3 tyres, so this was something that didn't cost anything, and arguably looked better than stock so I was happy for my car to wear these for the next 4 or 5 months. The 2016/17 winter weather was particularly awful. Not to the extent that winter tyres were required, but it just seemed to be constantly raining and/or very windy, especially on the occasions when I actually had some free time! So during the dark winter months I just planned what I was going to do next and armed myself with some knowledge, and also picked up a few parts. Fast-forward to the spring and it was time to switch back to summer tyres. A successful PPI claim had given me some funds to play with so I wanted to upgrade to a set of staggered 19" wheels. Sure, the stock 18's look good on a 2nd-gen IS, but 19's look even better!. My initial plan was to save up for a set of graphite OZ Superturismo LMs, but these are pretty expensive and rarely show up on the used market, so I mulled this over for a number of weeks before deciding on my alternative choice of wheel - the OEM "blade" wheels off an IS-F. Produced for Lexus by BBS Japan, these forged and relatively lightweight wheels were hardly a booby prize and were actually a good choice for what I want to achieve. My overall goal for the car could be described as "OEM Plus". To try and make some tasteful improvements to how it looks and performs without ruining it, and to add a bit more of a sporting flavour without it looking out of place. At the end of the day this is my daily driver and I still want it to feel like a Lexus so I'll be using high quality aftermarket or genuine parts from within the Lexus family where possible. In this regard the IS-F wheels are ideal, so when a newly-refurbished set showed up on eBay, I snapped them up. Once the wheels arrived (from Latvia!), my next point of deliberation was tyre choice. I had narrowed the short-list of candidates down to three - Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3, Dunlop Sport Maxx RT2 or Michelin Pilot Super Sports. In the end I stumped-up for the more expensive Michelins as they've been proven quality for years and are still featuring as an OEM application on various performance cars. Whilst, on the other hand, the other two are quite new on the market with less known about them. Regarding sizes, I took the safe option and went with stock widths as I didn't want to run into problems when I lower the car a touch. I didn't weigh them but just by handling them during fitting and removal and moving the various wheels in and out of storage a few times, the new wheel & tyre combo certainly felt lighter than the OEM F-Sport alloys, despite them being larger. What isn't in question though, is just how much sharper and more precise the steering feels with them, plus grip is superb. Refinement suffered a little of course, but I would say only a little as the car still rides extremely well. On my initial impressions, I was more concerned about the increased road noise and thought I had made a huge mistake, because, boy were these things loud! Thankfully they got a lot quieter after putting a few miles on them but they're still probably louder than a lot of other tyres on the market. I would happily buy them again though. Around this time I also gave the car it's first proper detail during my ownership, and it was badly-needed. After months of being caked with dirt and rock salt, the sides of the car felt like sandpaper, There were literally hundreds of tar spots, so an extensive decontamination and clay bar session paved the way for a course of Super Resin Polish and a coat of Soft99 Fusso Coat. This restored some much-needed shine and lustre to the paintwork, and for the first time in ages, it was actually protected from the elements. (Obligatory snow foam pics) April saw the car pay a visit to Lexus Edinburgh to be serviced and MOT'd and it sailed through with no advisories. In fact, the service manager commented on how clean it was, and how he had to double-check whether they had washed it or not. Next up, was to install a dash-cam. In my previous car I had the relatively cheap, but excellent A118c. And I was in the market for a new one because I carelessly forgot to remove it from the wreck before it was taken away. Anyhow, suitably impressed with how it had performed, I was all set to buy another one when I noticed that there was now an A119 on the market. This promised to be even better and could be installed just as discreetly as the older camera, so I ponied-up an extra few quid to grab one, along with the optional GPS module and a CPL filter. This time, I wanted to make use of the parking mode so that meant hard-wiring it into an "always-on" circuit, so I tapped into the keyless entry system. I was a little worried that this would drain the battery and leave the car unable to start, but so far so good. I've left the car parked-up for 3 or 4 days at a time without any trouble. This is especially impressive, since, after reviewing some footage that was captured whilst parked, it would appear that the motion sensor is pretty sensitive and will trigger the camera into recording an "event" quite easily, So, at times (like when it's raining) the camera can effectively be recording 24/7, yet it doesn't seem to be too much of a burden on the battery. This is something I'm mindful of though, so I'm keeping an eye on it. For the past couple of months, I've just been concentrating on keeping the car clean, but a couple of days ago I done my first "performance" mod when I swapped-out the standard air intake for the official F-Sport one (PTR03-53100). I'd had one of these in my eBay watch list for about 2 years, just waiting for a deal nice enough for me to pull the trigger on. Well, such a deal showed up a couple of weeks ago so I jumped on it. Some pics I took during fitting. Installation was a breeze, very straightforward and quick. I took my time however and cleaned my MAF sensor at the same time, and also cleaned-up some parts of the engine bay that were dusty & dirty before putting everything back together. As for the intake, it's a nice piece of kit. Being an OEM upgrade, you would expect the quality to be very good and the fitment to be perfect, and it is. The general consensus seems to be that this will free up around 3-5 bhp, but that's not something that can be felt. What is noticeable though is the induction sound. There's very little difference, if any, during normal driving but when you push the revs above 3K you're greeted with a fantastic throaty roar. My next move will probably be to lower the car another 10mm or so via a set of H&R springs that I bought ages ago, but until then here's a few pics of how the car looked with the 19" IS-F wheels. Quick Links: F-Sport Gear knob Winter Wheels prep & installation Interior LED upgrade New & current wheel setup IS350 Brake upgrade

My car recently have developed interesting fault. I cannot say it came unexpected, for a while it was intermittent i.e. washer fluid didn't come on the first pull of the leaver. Over the time I was associating it with maybe half empty washer fluid bottle, rare use or air in the washers tubing.... until recently. Now I can confirm that washer bottle is full, but noting comes up from the jets.. even after 10-20 pulls. Windscreen wipers starts swiping to clean the fluid (which meant to be there), but nothing come out. I would like to note that head lamps washers works fine, only the windscreen washers are affected. Any ideas? I guess there should be fuse, so might need to start from that?

If your like me, the best part about owning a Lexus is the nice toys and technology that Lexus offer. I've recently swapped my IS220D SE-L for a IS250 SE, The SE-L was fitted with the illuminated door sills that light up "Lexus" when you open the doors, a really nice feature which should be standard in my opinion. Unfortunately my 250 SE only had the basic plastic sills that look a bit cheap on a Luxury car so i pulled off the plastic ones to find that the cars are fitted as standard with the plug for the illuminated sills, so I thought I could just buy the illuminated sills and plug them in. Unfortunately it turned out that this is not the case, all the cars do indeed have the plug however the plug is only wired in on the Luxury and sports spec models, to get around this problem you need to do some basic home wiring which I will show you now. Please note: I take no responsibility for any damage done to your vehicle while following this guide. For this modification you will need the following: 1-2M of Auto Wire 4x Scotch Locks A Pair of Bull Nose Pliers A Pair of Snips Stanley Knife/Craft knife Step 1: Remove the existing door sills to reveal the wiring loom underneath ( A bit of brute force pulling straight up will remove the sills) Step 2: Using a Stanley Knife or Craft knife, carefully cut away the electrical tape that covers the wires that go into the door sill connector (Be particularly careful not to cut into any wires in the loom). Step 3: Take your Auto Wire and 1 scotch lock and Scotch lock your auto wire and the White wire going into the Door Sill Connector together (Leave the blue wire as it is). Step 4: Remove the interior trim that covers the seat belt tensioner system (to aid this process put the seat in the fully back position and the backrest all the way back, and open the rear door. Again some force will release the clips holding the panel on). Step 5: Locate the wire that connects to the Door switch, it sits on the inside of the pillar behind the switch. (A White Wire on the drivers side and Purple on the Passengers side, shown in the image above). Step 6: Trace your auto wire around the current loom to reach the Door Switch wire behind the seat belt panel. (when doing this ensure that your auto wire cannot rub on the seat belt as it moves back and forth during use). Step 7: Take a Scotch lock and scotch lock the Door Switch wire and auto wire together (Ensure you don't short out the wire on the vehicle's body work while using metal tools. I also wrapped some electrical tape around the scotch lock to ensure nothing metal would contact the bodywork in the future). Step 8: Plug in your illuminated door sills to ensure they are working correctly, when you push the Door switch the Sills should shut off and then light up when the switch is released. (If your Sills don't light up please check to see if you have your interior light switch set to come on when the doors open). Step 9: When you are happy that everything is working correctly, push the interior trim panels back into place. Some pressure on the areas should clip everything back in to place. Finished Product. I hope this guide was helpful, if i've missed anything or you have any questions please post here and I will endeavour to help the best I can.

Good morning guys and girls, Long story short, I bought a category s 250 (I know, I know, you get what you pay for), the structural damage was repaired, however they skimped out on some of the exterior bodywork. From what I've seen they replaced the front bumper with one without front parking sensors, now whenever I want to use my parking sensors the sonar system freaks out because only the rears will work - indicating the two front sensors aren't working because they're not even there. Has anyone gone about retrofitting the front parking sensors? I've bought a new loom for the sensors as well as the sensors themselves, although they'll need painting before fitting. From what I've see under the bumper, the connector is still there for the parking sensor loom to plug into. What I'm concerned about is the fitment of the sensors themselves. Will it be as simple as just drilling out the hole in the bumper to fit them or will I need any particular tools/fittings for the sensors to seat comfortably? Any help would be greatly appreciated and I can attach some pictures if needed. Better yet if anyone has any pictures showing how they should be installed would be even better. Thanks very much! Alex

Looking for recommendations on where to find a clutch and flywheel replacement kit as I’m struggling to find one other than an Exedy kit on eBay for £1100.

Hi Everyone. I’ve been for a while looking for a Bluetooth connection solution in order to make calls and listen to music from my phone more conveniently. I tried usb transmitters but the audio quality was really bad so I’m just wondering whether the item on the below link is a recommended or has been had by anyone https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202823596960 my car is IS250 2009

As the title suggests, I will probably be saying goodbye to my IS250. I wasn't planning on selling it, but someone asked if I'd sell and I said yeah, sure. So the said person is supposed to be collecting the car on Saturday, as is. It may be a goodbye to my IS250, but I won't be parting my ways with Lexus just yet. I am planning on getting a MK3 GS300 instead as I want the reliability and comfort for day-to-day driving, but I am also in the process of purchasing another weekend toy, manual Nissan 300ZX targa top, from someone local to me. I've wanted the Nissan for a long time and I think it's just meant to be. Someone wants to buy my Lexus and at the same time a 300zx for a reasonable price pops up? Fate perhaps? The 300ZX isn't mint, but it runs & drives, is solid underneath but the bodywork will need attention. Some rust patches are bubbling up under the paint in a few areas of the car, so I will be looking at fixing that over the coming weeks/months. I think it will be a case of a full respray eventually as the 32 years old paint is a bit tired at this point.

This has got to be the Lexus owners have been waiting for , certainly me but is it real ?

Hey all of you chosen ones (you know who you are), I dove deep into the well known sulphur/eggy problem on older IS250s and found multiple people pointing towards the rear quarter, trunk boot, air duct, vent, rubber seal, insert other tags here for the poor soul searching for this problem in the future - to be the problem. For you my friend who found this in the future, this is the part you need: https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-phase-2-rear-quarter-panel-vent/ My question is simple but quite unusual... Given the low availability of these, the prices are quite silly especially considering you can't just get the rubber insert that's deteriorated and since Lexus upgraded this part sometime post 2007 - I have no certainty whether the above is the post or pre upgrade version so: Can I just block this vent out to avoid the nasty smell/sulphur poisoning? Does anyone know what the technical purpose of this vent is? Is it to avoid 'bloating' of gases in the boot? Is it a redundant safety feature? Will I be hurting some weird niche part of the 1000 inner workings our wonderful cars constantly do without us knowing? Thanks a lot, I love being a part of this community - if you're reading this in the future I highly recommend you sign up! EDIT: Or does anyone know if any other car's vent might fit??

Hi All, On a Lexus IS250. Have recently noticed and have rear passengers also said that the rear air vents do not blow any air, warm or cold. I have checked that the vents are both open. Putting the AC on only blows air in the front and not in the back. Have tried putting Fan mode only and the air vents feel a bit warm. Does any one know how the rear air vents work? Thanks

i own a 2006 is250, on purchase had a small air leak on the exhaust, after driving for few days suddenly Check VSC came on the screen along with the TC and EML light, i understand the VSC message/TC light should be coming on anyway when i have an issue with my engine. so i was under the impression that the issue is the exhaust leak, which in turn is causing the O2 sensors to read poor figures, and throwing the engine light ect on, Now sometimes when im driving all the lights just extinguish and stay off for 24/48 hours but they do come back on eventually, and they will go away again themselves. due to this issue i originally just had a Check VSC code in the ABS/TC computer, and a O2 sensor code for the engine ecu. we use a snapon Modus and have Bosch Esi at work and both machines will not connect to and/or read manually or automatically. so i cant even clear the codes manually now, it wont open the ecu option, and even if i just force clear all codes it only picks up 3 units (aircon, body control module, and smart key access) any help really appreciated, its an automatic if that makes any difference at all. i was considering pulling the exhaust off and repairing it because of the o2 code, but obviously if there's a deeper electrical issue that's the least of my worries for now

Hi All I have a Lexus IS 250 2008. I recently had a Nextbase 622GW dashcam fitted and hardwired (by Halfords, using the Nextbase wiring kit). Dashcam works fine but after my first long trip I realised that the cigarette lighter (which I use to power the sat nav) wasn't working. Took it to my local garage and they said the fuse had blown, and replaced it. Everything was fine with the sat nav for a couple of weeks, a period when I wasn't using the dash cam. But a couple of days ago I once again was using the dash cam with the sat nav, and once again the cigarette lighter appears not to be working -- presumably fused again. Has anyone else had trouble combining cigarette lighter/sat nav with hardwired dash cam? I'm not knowledgeable on electrics but I'm presuming that the system is getting overloaded somehow -- is this because the fuse used by the dash cam is the same as used by the cigarette lighter? Is this even possible? Can it be solved by a different type of fuse (I did say I'm an idiot in these matters). Or is there some other explanation / solution? Thank you for any pointers.

So I gave my IS250 an interior clean last week and came to find that there was loads of water in the spare wheel well! Removed the grommets and managed to drain all of it but now concerned of where the source of the water ingress is? Last night checked my amp (ML audio system if it matters) and found some moisture around that area but the amp itself looked dry. After some googling found that there's a vent besides the bumper where water comes in from but haven't done more checks for that. I removed 2 of the grommets in the spare wheel well to aid with water drainage in the future but is there any way to protect my amp from moisture?

Hey guys, I'm a new lexus owner (lexus is250) so please go easy on me. My car has been burning oil heavily. Its also got white smoke coming out the back. I've been told it may be the pistom rings and that it's gonna be a costly repair. Can anyone recommend someone and tell me how much it'll cost exactly. The symptoms that my car has are as follows: White smoke out the rear (none of it blue) Burning oil It pulls fine No misfire Engine runs smooth Just worried that it may be a catastrophic faliure

I've run into some trouble with my 2007 IS250. Bit of a long story, sorry in advance. I hadn't used the car in ~4 months as I'd been at uni and come home to find the keys had been locked inside the car while I'd been home because the battery had died. I hired a locksmith to come out that ended up having to wedge the door open to get the keys as they managed to damage the lock by not picking twice and brute forcing the wafers... Since then a considerable portion of the body electrics have stopped working. Though as I've only discovered this after getting back home I don't know if this problem existed before or if the locksmith has damaged something. Currently I have no central locking, indicators or lights except dip beam (hazards work though), wipers/washer, on the drivers side the master lock button doesnt work, nor do any of the window switches except the one for the drivers side door. I can still start and drive the car however (assuming it's dry and I don't mind looking like a BMW driver). The door lock switch on the front passengers door does work and when you shut the rear drivers side door you can hear a solenoid or something trying to lock the door but can't for some reason. The second locksmith I hired to fix the problems caused by the first one stuck a diagnostic on the car after fixing some stuff (Highly recommend Faringdon Autokeys very friendly and know what they're doing) and the code that came back was something to do with a short from the battery +ve to the body control module I think (I'm waiting for the locksmith to forward the trouble codes to me currently) I took it to a lexus dealership and they managed to solve the problem for about 5 minutes before it started happening again. The tech said it was some dodgy wire/terminal that caused it near the body control module but if it's come back after 5 minutes the repair was either very shoddy or its something else that been nudged/adjusted in the process. The dodgy wire would line up with the short trouble code and maybe a reason why the battery died but the tech recommended changing out the master locking module in the drivers door panel first just in case the 1st locksmith damaged something pocking around. I've ordered one thats coming tomorrow as it was only £20 and beats £550 for a new BCM from Lexu plus some of the trim is cracked on mine anyway. My gut tells me it's something to do with the body control module though and I'd like to take a look at the repair job they've supposedly done on this wire and I've also picked up a spare BCM+fusebox for £20 on the off chance a replacement will solve all my troubles. So my question is, does anyone know how to get access to the body control module on the drivers side? I know it's attached to the interior fuse box but I'm not sure how to actually get at it properly to have a look and does anyone have any other ideas of potential solutions/things to try? Thanks in advance

Hi all, Recently got myself a 2007 SE IS250 and was wondering if there's any newer map updates available? I believe I need to update it via disc but can only find a link to a disc update from 2018 maps. Any links to newer map versions would be greatly appreciated, or if I'm out of luck and 2018 is the last iteration. Cheers Matt

I need to replace the battery in my 206 IS250. Being skint, I'm keen to spend as little as possible! A quick look on eurocarparts suggests a couple of options: The lion 030 battery (https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/lion-030-car-battery-3-year-guarantee-444770301) or The lion 031 battery (https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/lion-031-car-battery-3-year-guarantee-444770311) I think I need the first one, and I'd be very grateful if anyone could just confirm for me please?

Hi everyone, Looking to do some small repairs on the front seats & fix some discoloration in the arm rest in my mk2 IS250. Can anyone recommend some products to fill in the cracks and fix the discoloration? Pics below of the areas that need fixing Arm rest discoloration in the corner towards the driver A few cracks in the passenger & driver seats This is on the bottom of the passenger seat And this is on the lower back side on the driver seat And lastly some more discoloration/wear on the driver seat bolster Any recommendations greatly appreciated!