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GUIDE: Sub Removal


Description

A bit of a weakpoint in the LS430 sound system is the 8 inch sub at the back, a bit of googling will reveal that people often try to stick these back together with various methods which are generally silicone based. Alternatively you can remove/replace/repair professionally the foam that deteriorates. If you do decide to take the sub out then this will show you how<br /><br />I found a fair bit of misinformation about how to do this so this is what I did

Step 1 - Use a large flatblade screwdriver to ease the cover up (place hand over the top in case it flicks up and hits the windscreen)

LSTRStep1a.jpg
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Step 2 - Raise the head rests to expose a plastic trim cover which you can pop out with a small flatblade screwdriver

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Step 3 - Use a racthet with an extension to remove the 12mm nut, note that the end of the threaded bar is not threaded which lets the nut sit on the end instead of falling down behind the seat to a magnetic parts tool will help you recover it

Repeat this for both sides

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Step 4 - Pull the centre console trim forward (two clips hold this in place)

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Step 5 - Remove the 12mm nut holding the rear seat bar in place

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Step 6 - Depress the flexi strip on the side of the seat and unplug the 3 pin connector for the seat base (I found it easier to work both hand in this gap and do it that way)

Repeat on both sides

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Step 7 - Pull sharply up on the seat base and unhook the 4 retainers (two on each side, one set shown in the second picture) and remove the seat bases.

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Step 8 - Remove the two 12mm nuts holding the bottom of the seat back in place

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Step 9 - Insert a large flatblade screwdriver into the seat belt guide and twist it, this takes some force to unclip, then slide out the belts

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Step 10 - Disconnect the 3 connectors under the seat base (just press and pull affairs). Then remove the variosus restraints with a pair of snips/pliers

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Step 11 - Disconnect the main wiring connector which sits in front of the wheel arch (again just press and pull)

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Step 12 - Remove the seat back from the car. Note Unhook the elastic around the seat belt clasp on the way out

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Step 13 - Remove the two 12mm nuts on the nearside seat back also

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Step 14 - At this point I just folded the seat back down, I had plenty of room and didn't need to do the wiring disconnection on the nearside but it's up to you

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Step 15 - Use a couple of flatblade screwdrivers to pop the fasteners out (some call them 'christmas trees'). Put a screwdriver either side and lever it up, can be a bit tricky until you have done one or two

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Step 16 - Press and pull to disconnect the wiring

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Step 17 - You can now lift up and slide the parcel shelf down the seat belts as shown

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Step 18 - Remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the sub in place

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Step 19 - Disconnect the speaker wiring (press and pull)

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Step 20 - Remove that sub, it simply lifts out

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Step 21 - Refitting is easy enough, look through the rear screen while wriggling the parcel shelf back into place

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Step 22 - Plug connector back in

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Step 23 - Push the black plastic retainers back down

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Step 24 - Reconnect the connectors and main wiring to the seat back

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Step 25 - Hook the bottom of the seat back over the threads as shown

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Step 26 - Hook the bar at the top of the seat over the threads (this bar moves to make fitment easy)

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Step 27 - Fasten your two 12mm nuts at the bottom in place

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Step 28 - Pop your elasticated cover over the seat belt fastener

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Step 29 - Refit seat belts and clip them down (just press with your hand)

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Step 30 - Re-route the wiring from the back across the seat base area. Use cable ties or the old connectors to route the wiring loom properly under the seat

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Step 31 - Hook the nearside seat in place, shown is the moving bar which is hooked over the threads

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Step 32 - Fit the 12mm nut that joins the seat backs

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Step 33 - Refit the trim in place

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Step 34 - Fasten the 12mm nuts to hold the bottom of the seat backs in place

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Step 35 - Pull the seat belts clear then slide the seat base in. Rejoin the connectors as you go. Once you have wriggled it right back, press down at the front (checking the latches are lined up first of course)

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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/JSeaman/Lexus/LSTRStep35d.jpg

Step 36 - Refit the hidden nuts behind the headrests and their covers

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/JSeaman/Lexus/LSTRStep36a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/JSeaman/Lexus/LSTRStep36b.jpg

Step 37 - Check everything still works!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/JSeaman/Lexus/LSTRStep37.jpg

Step 38 - Click down the speaker cover, this simply pushes down at each corner

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/JSeaman/Lexus/LSTRStep38.jpg


Extra Fields

General

  • Time Taken?
    1 hour
  • Tools Used?
    12mm socket, flatblade screwdriver, pliers
  • List Parts Used?
    N/A
  • Costs?
    N/A
  • Like 2

User Feedback

Recommended Comments

Thanks for this - a great guide which just helped me change my subwoofer (alas a tale of woe in itself for another time).

Just one observation - I found there is no need to remove either of the seat backs completely or disconnect their wiring or the seatbelts. Just remove the bolts and they can be folded forwards out of the way (move the front seats forward to make room). You then have to work from the doorways but it was straightforward to get the parcel shelf out and unbolt the subwoofer.

I've read a load comments on the net about this being a swine of a job but it really isn't. Once you've done it once it's a 15 minute job tops each way.

lexus.jpg

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Well done that's a first class tutorial.  It's also great info for anyone replacing rear shocks as the seat has to come out.  Excellent stuff!

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