Captain Lexus

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About Captain Lexus

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  • Lexus Model
    IS 200

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  1. Ball Joint Failure

    Hi all, Look what happened to me last night..... My car is a 2000 with 121000 miles on the clock. lower and upper ball joints on both sides were replaced in 2011 at 95700 miles All parts purchased on eBay, although I expect it was just bad luck that one failed. There wasn't much warning, my steering started getting stiff earlier in the week and the car wouldn't 'self centre' when turning corners. Other than that there were no creaks or groans coming from the suspension at all. I haven't had a ball joint fail before, I'm surprised that the ball popped out of the socket rather than something snapping. I was very lucky, just pulled out of the car park at work so I was only driving at about 5Mph. The damage to the wing was caused getting the car off the recovery truck. I am hoping that a new ball joint will get me back on the road. An ABS fault has also appeared so I expect the cable has been damaged during the incident. The lower suspension arm hit the ground so I'm hoping that's not bent. Don't worry, I will get both sides done. They are only £30 from Eurocar parts - oh dear cheap parts again...... Looking on the bright side, this it the first breakdown in nearly ten years.
  2. Handbrake Rear Internals

    Hi snaps, It's part of the backing plate and it should be shaped like a top hat and spot welded on. I expect the backing plate has started to rust through from the back and the spot welds have come away. This happened to my car about 18 months ago. I started getting scraping noises when driving, when I removed the discs everything fell out! I can't remember it's purpose exactly but I think it is there to guide the handbrake cable/mechanism into the correct position for the shoes. I do remember trying to work out a way of repairing this but I gave up. I just cleaned everything up and put it together without. I haven't had any problems yet and I've gone through at least one MOT although both my rear calipers are knackered so I'm about to have a more detailed look in the next few weeks when I replace them. Hope this helps
  3. Bonnet Bounce!

    Is the movement at the front of the bonnet or the rear? There are rubber bumpers (small black and round) at each corner at the front of the car. if they have been wound down then there may be a little bit of flex at the front. Just wind them up a bit until the bonnet stops moving but not too much so that you have trouble closing it! Have a look at the whole locking mechanism it could be loose. If the movement is at the rear then you will have to get some spanners out. Hope this helps Thanks Sean
  4. Leak In Boot

    Hi, It might not be the drain tube, it could be that water has got in through the rectangular vent in the same area. There is only a small rubber flap that protects that area of the floor. i think water would get past it if you pointed a jet washer at the wrong angle maybe you went through a large puddle. I had water collect on both sides. I dried the area out with paper towels and have had no problems since although i did rustproof the area just in case. this was because i think the water had been there a while and started to stain the paintwork. Hopefully the link below will work. Prev It will show you the location of the Drain tube (green hose) and the rectangular air vent. Thanks Sean
  5. Sticking Fuel Gauge?

    Hi, Have a search in the archives. There is plenty of information about this. The fuel level display is calculated by the ECU on an IS. You can find (and i usually do) that when you fill the car from empty the fuel gauge stays in the red for a few miles before flicking straight back up to full. this is probably due to the ECU only reading the sender gauge signal every few miles or processing cycles rather than constantly. I tend to zero one of the trip gauges everytime i fill up. This way i know how many miles i travel per tankful. I'm sure one of the resident guru's on here will either confirm this or shoot me down in flames!! Thanks Sean
  6. Brake Pedal Realeased, Then Bleeping Heard?

    Hi, Are you sure you have your description correct? The fuel filler is on the passenge side not drivers side (unless you are LHD i suppose) From memory, I think the alarm siren is located on the Offside (Drivers for RHD) it is tucked up in the C pillar. The Nearside (Passenger) C pillar contains the remote central locking sensor and fuel filler. I think a bulb failure sensor is there too. Do you have any extras such as Sat nav or carphone. Have you got any aftermarket equipment such as an auxilliary module for towing? they have a 'reminder' buzzer. I have no idea as to why the car beeps as you release the brake but identifying this siren should narrow things down a little. Have you looked through the online workshop manual? Hope this helps a little Sean
  7. Hi, I have been kicking around this site for a while now and I thought it was about time I actually posted something. Here is my guide on how to fit a tow bar to an IS200. Hopefully, everything in this guide is correct, if you see something wrong please tell me. I removed all the boot linings so that I could clean the car out and have a good look around. I took the next few pic’s to show the various wiring connectors and the two drainage tubes coming down from the sunroof. You can also see the alarm siren and remote opening ECU tucked up in the "C" pillars. 290 291 292 294 You can also see some surface rust appearing deep in the inside of the rear arches. This is due to water ingress that I think gets in through the rectangular shaped vents. I expect this happens while driving through deep puddles and jet washing. You can't seal these up, they are needed for air circulation. I will be rust proofing the area later. 293 295 Make sure you have everything available, bolts, nuts, washers etc. especially if like me you brought a second hand part. This cost me £30 from Ebay - yes you can still get bargains off there. 296 I have wire brushed and painted it, you cant put dirty things onto a car. The next pic shows the rear tow bracket and under tray. Both need to be removed before trying to fit the towbar. The under tray is attached buy four rusty nuts so use some penetrating spray and the Tow bracket is attached by three bolts. Keep one bolt handy because you need to refit it to the car. 297 298 The rear silencer needs to be dropped. I pulled the rubbers from the back box but I think you can unbolt the complete rear hanger, be careful because rust will have got to these as well. 299 Don't forget to support the silencer. I didn't jack up the car so I just used a couple of bricks and jack to take the weight and dropped it lower when I needed to. I didn't want to leave it at an awkward angle any more than necessary and have to deal with a split pipe. 304 I also put some tape over the bumper to help avoid and scratches. These pic’s show the rust developing, remember this car is getting on for 12 years old so I expected a bit. I cleaned this up and treated it. If you look at the rear sub frame mountings there is some light surface rust appearing. This could develop into an expensive MOT failure in later years. 293 295 300 301 302 I also took a pic of the car looking from the back to the front so you can all see and compare. If I find myself with some spare time this year I might rust proof the underneath. 303 The exhaust heat shield needs to be removed. You can see that two of the bolts snapped when I tried to remove them. You could try soaking the bolts in a penetrating fluid for longer but if you see the large holes in the heat shield I think you will have trouble, keep an eye out for my 'repair' in later pic’s. 305 306 Underneath the heat shield you can see there is less rust. You can also see two blanking bolts. These need to be removed. 307 Trial fit the tow bar to check that it is straight and fits nicely. Four of the six holes are pre drilled and threaded for you. The remaining two should be marked (using the tow bar as a guide) 308 309 310 If you look carefully in the pictures you can see dimples in the chassis rails. These are guides to show you where to drill. They are more obvious from the top than the bottom. The one on the nearside was difficult to find, I had to take off some paint and rust proofing to locate it. Measure, check and measure then do it again to make sure. You will be drilling into the chassis rails. This will affect the structural integrity of the car so it never hurts to take your time over this. You can drill a pilot hole from the top and then the bottom using the dimples as a guide rather than using a long bit and drilling two holes at once. 312 311 If you are confident then you can use a long drill bit and drill right through I used a long 5mm drill bit to drill a pilot hole and drilled from the top down. Make sure the drill is square to the chassis rails otherwise you will come out in the wrong place. Check to see if you are in the correct place by offering the towbar up to the car. Once you are happy the pilot holes are central to the towbar bolt holes use a hole cutter to enlarge them so that they can accept the tubes from the bolts. 313 The upper and lower holes have to line up. I drilled from the top through. 314 You will also have to drill a hole so that the cable can enter the body and connect to the lights. I drilled this by the jack housing. Check that everything fits. Then rust proof. Pay particular attention to any bare metal. I used Kurust rust killer and then some galvanized spray paint. The spray is great for underneath the car, I used it in the front arches when I replaced all the suspension last year. Don’t forget to paint the inside of the chassis rails too. 316 317 319 318 Fit the towbar and run the cable into the car using a rubber grommet to seal the hole and secure the cable. I think that with some towbars you have to cut the bumper a little. It was tight on mine with the lower lip of the bumper rubbing on the electrical socket plate. 320 321 I used some copper slip grease on all bolts and threads. I have a big pot of this so I use it on everything. It helps to keep everything from rusting. Tighten everything to the specified torque. Both the under tray and the exhaust heat shield need to be cut to fit back on the car. 322 323 324 Refit the exhaust, I removed and cleaned up the exhaust hanger while I had easier access. This is the original exhaust so I expect I will have to replace it in the near future. 325 Now you have to connect the wiring. Because the IS has a bus system with bulb failure warning system you cannot just connect to the rear lights as with older cars, you need a bypass relay. This device takes a signal from the light wiring and draws power for the trailer from a source more suitable. I couldn’t find a permanent or switched live in the boot suitable for the amount of current that I could be pulling in the so I ran a live from the battery. This MUST be fused. You also need an earth. I stayed away from the earths already used, this car has far too many ECU’s for my liking so the less I disturb them the better. Place the Bypass relay somewhere easy to access, away from the possibility of water or mechanical damage. I found the ideal place but then realized that it was in the way of the jack!! If you are planning on towing a caravan you will need to run extra cabling. The picture below shows the wiring connections. A lot of people don’t like the blue connectors but the alternative is to strip the insulation and solder, it's up to you. 326 Keep it as neat as you can and tape up the loom when you have finished. Check everything is secure and then replace all the boot trim. That’s it. You have to bear in mind any license restrictions when towing especially for you youngsters. You should also be aware of the vehicle, tow bar and trailer limitations.