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  1. Past hour

    Mud Flaps

    Cheers John: I'll see what I can do.
  3. Today
  4. Quite simply, things age and the chemistry changes. You obviously had to drive to Halfords so the charging circuit has been doing its job and the battery was well charged at the time of the test. The age and altered chemistry mean that it no longer holds charge as well as it used to. Maybe if it had been stood outside Halfords for four hours before testing then it wouldn't have looked so good. The trouble now is, do you just change the battery anyway in the hope that it is the age that's causing the problem, or do you spend some money for an auto-electrician* to do some diagnostics first in case something else is causing the battery drain? If you've got a clamp ammeter and a decent multimeter and know how to use them properly you could do some initial diagnostics yourself. * And I do mean a proper auto-electrician/auto-electrical specialist who has done a proper apprenticeship to the job, not a Halfords guy or a 'normal' garage. EDIT: Just to add to the above. When I was an apprentice electrician I worked in a factory that had a mechanic's workshop for maintenance and servicing of their own trucks and other vehicles. I don't know why but they decided it would be good for the apprentice electricians to spend a month in the garage learning about auto electrics, which I must admit, was quite interesting. I remember using a vehicle battery 'heavy discharge tester' and, although I'm going back to about 1976/77, a lead-acid battery is still a lead-acid battery so this should still hold good. My memory is a bit hazy but I seem to remember that the tester used a load to draw about 300A from the battery and if left on for about 30 seconds, the battery voltage shouldn't drop below 10V. If there were any duff cells, they would usually show themselves by bubbling and gassing quite rapidly whilst the good cells were 'quiet'. Now, it's been a long time since those days so don't take that as gospel, but I'm just thinking that maybe Halfords didn't do such a test?
  5. IS200_758

    Coils and Plugs

    Hey i have a friend here with an is300 and he has after market ngk (blue) coils in his engine as well as double tip iriduim spark plugs. I have and is200 and im not sure if i can do the same simple mods to my car, can someone tell me if there are aftermarket coils (hotter) as well as double tip spark plugs that can work on the is200 engine that will make it perform better. thanks in advance for the feed back
  6. Spotted this in local Tesco today. Only £9 for 2L bottles. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  7. I see no reason why you won't be able to order the grille. It's not like you're asking for a "foreign" part as it was fitted to cars in the UK. You might meet some resistance with the gear knob though as I don't think it was available outside of the USA. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  8. Hi John, Not a problem, I'd be happy to. PM me your address and I'll post it to you, don't worry about the cost. I'm afraid the valve snapped off the sensor when it was removed, but the electronics should be in tact. Jimi
  9. Boddney

    New Look For My GS

    Bolly has been in dry dock today for exhaust welding due to fairly hefty holes in each pipe. They’ve been like it for a while now and I’ve been enjoying the noise but now I’m a bit fed up with it and the MOT is next week so it needs sorting. I added some more LEDs too. I’m quite into them at the moment and no they’re not illegal. You are allowed any colour on the front except red and any colour you have must be still i.e not flashing. The first picture though, is of my playtime car and my sons modern equivalent as she vacated the garage to let Bolly in.
  10. My IS doesn't have folding rear seats Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. Just thought i would try and contribute here with what i recently did on my Lexus over the weekend. First job was the rear differential, i’m missing a few pictures , but i’ll update during the week Why? My car is a 2007 with 73k miles. Full lexus service history except the last 2 services. At this mileage according to the manual Both the diff and gearbox oil should have been changed. With no proof of this and something i do on any car i buy, i decided to swap all the fluids. No one locally had non Toyota equivalents in stock and nothing really available online so i found some in a local Toyota dealer. The day before , try spray some penetrating oil on both the drain and fill bolts to make life easier. Parts needed: 75w85 GL5 LT gear oil 0888581060 - 1.35~ litres needed(buy 2 litres) 2 x plug washers ( part number 1215710010 **confirm with your dealer) Tools needed: 10mm allen key head, plus various extension bars to suit + socket size of choice Oil drain pan Funnel Fluid pump gloves safety glasses Clean up cloths Head torch Car lift***(makes life 100% easier for this job) Before you start on the rear diff, crack loose the fill plug first before you drain any fluid!!!! 1.Let the car cool down for approximately 30 mins 2. Safely raise car up securely so you can access rear diff, keep the car level front and rear 3. open fill plug slightly( needs pic) 4. Open drain plug and get ready to catch stinky diff fluid that comes out. It does not come out smoothly(gulps out unevenly) so try get a funnel right up close to it to prevent it splashing all over your arm/face/floor. It doesnt take long to drain out( needs pic) 5 While it drains take the time to clean the magnet on the drain plug and put on a new washer, there might be a greyish sludge on the magnet if its the first change 6. Once fluid drains to a trickle after 5-7 minutes, clean around the drain hole and re-install drain plug. 7. Remove fill plug from the top of the diff, you will probably need a 4-5 inch extension to loosen the plug from the far side of the exhaust pipe that is in your way. If its the first time its being opened you might need a longer breaker bar to get it open 8 Get your fluid pump of choice. I used this Fluid pump. Put end closest to pump handle to the fresh fluid bottle and the other end into the diff fill hole, i chopped a couple of inches off each hose to make life easier for the setup i had 9. Put in 1 liter, get your second bottle and as keep pumping in less than 500ml, when you see the fluid dribble out the fill hole, stop pumping, remove fill hose and reinstall freshly cleaned fill plug with new washer. 10. Tighten fill and drain plugs once done( not sure on torque spec, ill follow up on that) 11. Clean any spillage that occured. 12. Start car and check for leaks after a couple of mins. 13. Drive car and enjoy super smooth differential operation 🙂
  12. @Big Rat Thanks Paul it's a done deal! Booked in..looking forward to meet y'all 😎
  13. byrnew2007

    Cvt gear box

    Hi all, i am wondering when does the oil need to be changed in the cvt gearbox. I have a Lexus is300F. Also are they known for giving trouble ect. Thanks
  14. byrnew2007

    How to drive a hybrid

    Thanks for the reply mate
  15. Thanks I’ll have a look into that app.
  16. LED-BOY

    NX200t - 300H Black Bison kit

    Excuse me, but why does this NX need to go quickly? LEXUS NX - for comfortable driving for every day. Let's put in the parking 10 stock Lexus NX and one with WALD body kit. And let's see who will be paid more attention. 🙂 I have car for crazy weekend 🙂
  17. You can stop the menu popping up by having nav on small screen and switching to something else like audio screen on the bigger screen
  18. Ben01

    Castrol Edge 5w-30 fully synthetic

    Linas, yeah, you rationale about oil changes is better than mine. I agree, even good filters are far away from perfect (on the other hand, it's one part I don't spare money, IMHO there are collosal differences in filters, their valves, etc - problem is, like half of aftermarket, with consistency of quality; brand/type bloody good half a year ago has realy bad quality today). Okay, scrap my stupid ideas, oils are too cheap to waste time on discussion even. About eco factor, I dont believe in any claims of dispossal of used engine oil other than use as fuel, hopefully in proper boilers/ovens with hi temp and good filters. But as I said, I am not supergreen, it is minor factor for me. BTW on flaws and rattling hydraulics, I have feeling sometimes it much more complex. I had not so much exeprience with troublesome hydro valves (only those 2.9 fords with tiny valves' "cylinder" and tiny oil flow, especially in "far end" of heads), but from all stories like yours, many friends with ford-cosworths, a few with infamous chrysler engines (if anybody think Toyota brought some flaws at valves, check the stories about 2.7 chryslers). All and all it looks like one thing is design of valve and oil distribution etc, but other important factor is how much sooth engine produce. Because lower viscosity helps, it is obvious, but flush helps, longlife oils help, hi-grade oils help, etc. means the deposit is much more problem than viscosity. And I don't know, it suggests the piston rings problems or design flaws too, valve sealing/bearing problems, etc. not only valve and oil lines flaws? But I am not familiar with enginees with compress. ratio higher than 10:1 and sqeezed hi HP from litre, so maybe I missed something here. BTW BTW one thing is for sure, for valvetrain, hydro valves, etc. "bigger is better", bigger "acctuators", sealings, oil lines etc. I remember once or twice I though why my 2.9 ford rattling on valves and my oldie 4.0 from same family (ford explorer, they bored 2.9 up to 4.0) never rattle. My wrong presumtion was they have same valves and maybe different oil's lines, pump, or so. Nope, I understood when I have seen headless 4.0 - 2.9 has valve "cylinders" diameter like my finger, 4.0 got something closer to an inch... but this old design "for USA" or "like AK47" is gone, everything now is more compact, lighter, delicate, more HP/l or per kg... and often much more troublesome. Cost of progress, they say. But enough maybe, it is babling from old grumpy guy, not about oils.
  19. That's what I'm saying - you don't need to. Just tap into a main speaker and use a powered sub. Easy. Sent from my STV100-4 using Tapatalk
  20. Ben01

    Petrol smell

    If you have done the fuel sensor and you smell the fuel a bit now, logicaly, somebody failed job on sensor a bit...
  21. Hi guys, I'm Luke from Peterborough, I got myself an is200 last Sunday and I love it! It's a 2002 model, in grey with cloth interior. It's got tein coilovers, RX8 wheels, a sun strip and a straight pipe. It's had a hard life! I wanna do a VIP build. I'm after full air suspension, A full black leather interior, A rear bumper in gray, A front bumper in grey, Either smoked or LED lights all round, some 17-19 inch wheels up to 10 inch wide and the standard sat nav with all the parts. Thanks guys! Here's pics of my ride! Hope you like guys! :) Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
  22. They want another 800 euros for TPMS sensors. I can just take the existing ones from my 18" set, right?
  23. @Ashrez Welcome to the forum fella, if you want to pm me with details I’ll have a look at my data list for you. Mind you some pictures of her as it’s a need to look at the these cars... 😊 Big Rat
  24. Linas.P

    Lexus Lincoln or Lexus Hull?

    Cannot comment on Hull or Lincoln, but from my car service history I can see Hedge End has totally ripped of previous owner with unnecessary service items. Not sure... maybe it was the owner asking for specific services (unlikely), but they changed transmission oil at 40k miles, which was total waste and many other tiny and no so tiny things which looked for me like unnecessary and almost fraudulent to change.
  25. rayaans

    Considering a used LC500

    Yep that's right. USB is normal paint. Azure blue is 5 layer. It's called USB 2.0 in the states hence the confusion, and heat blue in other markets. CquartUK is actually a very good underrated product. It's one of those that punches well above its weight in terms of cost so nobody really talks about it. Kamikaze coatings are good too. Don't really know about siramik as had no experience with it. But I mean if the detailer says it's good, it's good right?........right????? Or perhaps the best profit lol
  26. I got 45mpg in London with C350e Petrol Hybrid. Didn't charge it. If I plan it i.e. charge it, I do not fill for months. Mercedes say 135mpg but that is not real. But if I do charge and use engine I hit 90mpg easily. If I go to work and back in London and make sure it is charged, well... the petrol engine never kicks in. I did my math, keeping the is250 costs me more then depreciation of c350e. You get perks of owning a new luxury car and a more kitted car. No tax, low insurance, no mot for a while, no congestion fee, free parking for few hours, faster car... Bad side for me is, I do not think I can do DIY on a Merc. Star/torx screw everywhere... I am sure there will be special screws when I get to real stuff. Sell my soul to get it fixed if it breaks? Unless under warranty. I get max 22mpg from is250. 305 tax. Congestion charges, pay parking if I have to. Old noisy car as compared. I don't know how good is IS300h but I am sure it will be better than is250. Why did Lexus not go plugin hybrid? What am I missing here? Where is Linas to explain it to me 🙂
  27. Just read this interesting thread on the US ClubLexus site about the loss of audio sound on a ML system. Turns out the owner is in Slough UK and has found a fix by replacing some diodes that were gone on the PCB in the boot mounted amp! Not sure if OP tried to gain assistance from LexusOwnersClub previously or not? Username is not familiar. paul m.
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