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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/13/2020 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Morning, Just in case anyone is interested 🙂 Just over a month now since I sold my beloved ISF and bought an FK8 Civic Type R so thought I would post a quick things I like, dislike, miss, regret and so on.... Historically, I have been a massive Honda fan which started when I was a kid in the 80's... Senna in a McLaren Honda, the dirt bikes on Streethawk (and Streethawk ofc) and then sat in a Honda NSX in 1989 as a 10 year old at the motor show with my Grandad which sealed the deal... At 21 I bought a 1998 DC2 Integra Type R which started my Honda ownership journey... I replaced the Integra with an S2000 at 25 which went well but didn't handle anywhere near as well as the Integra. The S2000 was replaced by a DC5 Integra Type R which was ace but I sold it to raise funds to move house and swapped it for cash my way plus my friends 1998 DC2 Integra Type R which reaffirmed what a great car the DC2 was (I was too young and not a good enough driver to appreciate my 1st one). Eventually, I went for something different, a Nissan 350Z. I loved the looks and the noise but it wasn't fast enough. It handled well but always felt like it needed another 50 - 100bhp to make it the car it should have been. A baby due meant the time for a bigger car... Queue the BMW 335i M Sport. Great car when it worked. Unfortunately this "Approved Used BMW" spent 11 weeks over the course of 12 months at BMW having turbos, injectors, fuel pumps, waste gates & lambda sensors replaced. Suffice to say, I am weary of BMW's. Went to replace the BMW with... shock horror... an FK2 Honda Civic Type R... Took the Mrs to see it and she wasn't happy... "You can't spend 33k on a Honda" was the response... queue my friend mentioning the Lexus ISF which I hadn't thought about and found one for 22k (I think it was) which the wife said was "much more reasonable" until she found out it was a 5L V8 but deal was done and it was on drive so 1 nil to me. 4 and a bit years and some 50k miles later, I longed for an FK8 Type R (possibly to do with Honda winning in F1 again) and one turned up at the dealer I purchased some of my previous Type R's from. A quick phone call and a socially distanced viewing at my house led to me placing deposit on an FK8 subject to test drive (I had driven one on an extended test drive before lock down so just had to make sure it drove and stopped). Put my ISF up for sale on here and Facebook for a fairly low price which took into account the TLC she needed. A pleasant chap from the Facebook Lexus group was in contact with me from the start and when I mentioned when it was due to go sooner rather than later, he drove down down about 260 miles the following day (in a pimp old school LS400 I might add) and bought my ISF for £200 more than Honda offered me in part-ex which I didn't mind as genuinely wanted it to go to an Lexus fan (he has an SC430 as well). So... Cutting a long story short... Few I like about the FK8 1 - Looks - I know they are subjective but I really like the look of it and always find myself looking at it when it's near 2 - Reaction - Good or bad, it turns heads. 3 - Handling - For a car that is the same size as the ISF (I think it's 5 cm shorter but wider than the ISF) it's a lot lighter and changes direction superbly. The diff is a masterpiece and I know it's a bit of a cliche but it feels more like a 4wd car than a Fwd car with the amount of grip it manages along with how it gets the power down. The adaptive dampers are great as well, comfort for when the wife and kids are in. Sport day to day. R for a track day 4 - Braking - The ISF brakes are great... the FK8 brakes are another level. I have also got the floating discs from the 2020 model to go on it before the annual Ring trip next month 5 - Tech - It's got all the gadgets being a GT. The head unit gets some bad press but using Android Auto it is fine - Spotify and Waze on main screen plus Google Assist works a treat 🙂 6 - Performance - Once moving.... it pulls and pulls and pulls. Not as quick off the line as the ISF but once moving, it is very rapid 7- Seats - They are great and the driving position is perfect. One thing I didn't like in the ISF were the seats. They weren't racy enough for me compared to an M3, RS4 or C63 that it was competing with. 8 - Running Costs - Tax is £150 a year compared with £580 or so, Insurance for me is £200 a year (ISF was 290) and obvious one is MPG (25+ around town and 40+ on motorway) 9 - The rear seats fold down so managed to blag it as being practical with the wife 10 - Best until last... The Gearbox... It's obviously a manual but it is a joy to use. Things I dislike about the FK8 1 - Noise (or lack of). The turbo spool and dump valve noise is quite cool but nothing compared to a V8. Exhaust note is non existent which is disappointing as there are plenty of cool sounding 4 pots out there (i30N, RS Megane, Golf TCR and so on). Exhaust on the shopping list. 2 - Niggles - Luckily under manufacturers warranty but she is going back in soon due to a few faults (all rain related). The auto wipers don't work, when it rains heavily the collision warning sensors can go off and I noticed condensation in one of the side lights by the front. 1st 2 issues are common faults. She was probably built the day they announced Swindon closing 3 - Interior (seats aside) - Not as plush as the Lexus in terms of materials and feels a bit more fragile than my ISF did. Also not sure I am a fan of the digital dash yet compared to some good old dials . Only one cup holder as well.... I am starting to sound old 🙂 4 - Wheels - 20 inch wheels look cool, but you have to avoid potholes like the plague for risk of cracking a rim. May have to invest in some smaller wheels in future 5 - Engine - It looks like a lawnmower (as in the actual engine). Did I mention lack of noise? It sounds like one as well Regrets 1 - Probably let the ISF go for too little money bearing in mind the price they are on AT but still got a fair amount more than WBAC 2 - I wasn't as bowled over on day 1 with the Civic as I was with the ISF but that was probably due to relief from getting away from the BMW. This was cleared up at Thruxton though where the Civic came into it's own 🙂 3 - The RCF - My buddy with an ISF keeps sending me links to RCF's which are now in budget.... I can't return yet surely 😉 Anyhow... it has been an absolute pleasure owning an ISF. I would buy another one in a heartbeat. In fact, a late one is on my list along with the RCF and GSF as things to replace the Type R with 😉
  2. 8 points
    Just thought i'd share some recent mods I did. I haven't had a chance to publish it on my blog yet but it's on my instagram. The 4 main mods here are: Hydrodip Interior Panels - I hydrodipped the centre console and steering wheel switchpad cover in black micro carbon weave pattern with a 2K clear coat on top to get a nice deep shine. I had recently wrapped the steering switchpad in gloss carbon fibre but wasn't too happy with the level of shine and depth of the pattern. So I hydrodipped it. I also took this oppertunity to finally change the outdated wooden centre console to the same design. Just have to do the window switches still. LED Upgrade - I took the oppertunity to change the LED bulbs inside the switchpad to blue. LED's are very cheap. I bought a pack of 100 for a few pounds. Plan is to change all the green LED's out on the car at some point. Aluminium Sports Pedals - I've always been after some OEM aluminium sport pedals but don't like to spend too much, so managed to finally source the whole set from a breaker for £20. Hybrid Blue Start Button - I wanted to upgrade the standard start button to the blue hybrid one to match by blue interior and exterior theme. I first purchased a hybrid blue start button from an earlier hybrid lexus for £5 but wasn't happy with the tone of blue and the backlight was yellowish, so i gave up with that. Then I purchased one from a CT200h for £10 and the blue tone of that is perfect and is like a pearl blue and the backlight is white. So in the pics you will probably see both start buttons. Some pics of all these mods below:
  3. 8 points
    Got up early this morning with the camera while the light was good and the car clean.
  4. 7 points
    Hi Guys, I said I would stick up pics of my newly refurbished wheels once I had the grey inserts and wheel nut covers, so here they are (the wheel nut covers were wrong size first time round so had to wait for the correct ones). I think they finish off the light anthracite wheels perfectly, just a pity the locking wheel nuts are a tad rusty....
  5. 6 points
    Agreed and if the new owner can sell it today for a similar price it really was worth it. If not then it wasn't. At £18k it must be a recent record for an SC. It's definitely not worth it but if anyone wants to pay £18k for mine please get in touch. 🤣
  6. 6 points
    Just had my first proper long distance trip in the 2012 GS250. Totally legal as 'support bubbles' became legitimate in Scotland a couple of weeks ago. Have to say what a fantastic car for the long haul. Turned out to be 11.5 hours in the end but the car was a joy to drive on the A roads North of Glasgow. Plenty of hills, tight bends, overtaking trucks etc. Glen Coe was truly spectacular. Have never considered this car fast in any way or form but it easily had enough power to cope with what was thrown at it even if you needed to work the engine a little harder than normal from time to time. I think the venerable 2.5 V6 thrives on being worked and will come back for more and more. Journey home included a break in Edinburgh and a trip down the classic A1 route. Again, plenty of opportunities for overtaking on the single carriageway sections of the A1 of which the impressive sounding 2.5 V6 was more than equal. Arrived home relatively ache free. I guess this car was built for journeys like this. One thing which is apparent though. The days of being able to get away with liberal adherence of the speed limit are surely coming to and end. Average speed cameras on large sections of the A9. Loads of cameras on the A1. Ditto on the Scottish winding roads. M1/M6 relatively camera free but only because none of the variable speed limit indicators were on. Its been a topic of conversation in the past (think it was regarding the engine options on the ES) but you do have to wonder whether the days of higher powered 'ordinary' cars are coming to an end.
  7. 6 points
    Wow that is quite some taxi ! 😂😂 P.Plate going on once plates are made up and DVLA aware. Needs a good scrub inside first. Also I just noticed it's missing it's aux socket in the front centre console.🤯🤯?? Any ideas as to where it could be hiding?
  8. 6 points
    Cairngorms in between Grantown-on-Spey and Aviemore, heading back home after visiting my kids whom I hadn’t seen since lockdown...extremely pleasurable 614ml trip on Monday just gone
  9. 6 points
  10. 6 points
    You say it's your first Lexus so I'm assuming it'll be your first hybrid too? If so, there's a knack to driving them. Don't 'baby' the car. Accelerate briskly to the desired speed and then just back your foot ever so slightly off and, traffic flow and hills allowing, you should be able to maintain speed on battery for a while. Anticipate traffic ahead and try to brake gently because this is how the traction battery is recharged. The aim is to get the regenerative braking system to do most of the stopping for you so that the traction battery stays charged. If I remember correctly, I think the regen system slows the car down to 3mph and then the traditional hydraulic brakes take over to bring the car to a full stop - which is why brake pads and discs last much longer on a hybrid car than a conventional one. If it's an emergency situation and you need to anchor on then the hydraulic brakes come on immediately, but otherwise the regen system is your new best friend Remember though, these are hybrid cars, not electric cars. If you manage to drive on battery alone then the most you'll get is maybe a couple of miles before the battery goes flat. This also means that you can't drive the car (or even start it) if you run out of petrol. You need three things to be working for the car to run - the 12v battery, the 288v traction battery and the petrol engine. Because the petrol engine only runs as and when necessary and not continuously, anything that would normally be driven from the engine by a belt such as the alternator and power steering pump etc., is driven by electric motors. Hybrids have no starter motor, no alternator, and a small 12v 'starter' battery that can often go flat if the car is left standing for two or three weeks so a few of us on here carry one of these or something similar which is small enough to carry in the glove box. They work very well and are well worth the cost for peace of mind alone. It's perfectly fine to jump start a hybrid if needed but never use a hybrid to jump start a conventional car or the end result may be a big bang that causes a huge dent in your wallet! One other thing is that if you're ever parked up for a while (say you've taken your wife to the hairdressers/dentist/shops/whatever) and you're sat in the car listening to the radio while waiting for her, always make sure that the car is in READY mode and P (never N). This is because the traction battery will lose charge quite quickly but if the car is in READY and P, the petrol engine will fire up as and when necessary to keep the battery charged. At traffic lights or other similar situations keep the car in D with your foot on the brakes rather than moving into N as you may have been taught when learning to drive - the hybrid system doesn't work with the car in N. Above all else - enjoy!
  11. 6 points
    Hi Jon Your profile shows the year of your car is 2020?? So I guess the nav system would be as up-to-date as possible. However, for anyone out there buying a second hand motor that’s a few years old, I would say don’t count on the dealership making sure that the sat nav maps are current, mine didn’t!! You will have to check the age of the map data when you do your test drive and hope to goodness that the previous owner spent the extra dosh on getting regular updates. If you’re lucky you’ll inherit a good/current one, otherwise expect to find a nav system that’s as old as the car it sits in. The other week, i asked my local Lexus dealer about getting the most recent update for my sat nav and was told it costs the dealership well over £100 to buy the licence from HQ for you and they then charge that on to you, plus labour to upload it, plus VAT. He said it’s so expensive he doesn’t do it either and just uses google maps on his mobile for directions!! i have to say that I think you’re going to be rather underwhelmed by the Lexus sat nav. The two I’ve had would only take the first portion of the post code, so it will get you to the general area, but after that you have to hunt for numbers on people’s front doors as you kerb crawl down the street ☹️ Added to that it’s certainly not an intuitive system, it’s hard to use, hard to program and forgets things you’ve just put in. If you get something wrong and want to take one step back and re-try, forget it; you’ll be quicker starting from the beginning again. Combine that with trying to use the weird illegitimate cross between a mouse and a joystick in your left hand and it gets so frustrating that you start to wish you hadn’t thrown away your old AA road atlas after all - It’s not their best selling point!! On other matters, don’t worry at all. Lexus dealers are the best around for looking after you and your car, they won’t let you down. Enjoy your new car!!
  12. 6 points
    The answer is simple, if not a bit cheeky. One is a VW, the other is a Lexus, so your worries are over mate.
  13. 5 points
    I replaced the fuel flap solenoid today, so that now works perfectly. The old one looked a bit corroded. The restored gold badges arrived today, so they are now back on the car. They look MUCH better, but obviously are not to everyone's taste. I'll need to paint the inside of the grille emblem matt black to tone down the "bling" factor, as per the factory finish.
  14. 5 points
    Without a doubt, yes it will. A conventional car has a starter motor that takes upwards of 300A to crank the engine, but a hybrid car doesn't have a starter motor as such and all the 12V battery does is to boot the computers and pressurise the brake system, which takes less than 20A to do. In fact, 'starting' a hybrid takes so little current that you could in theory use a pack of 8 AA batteries - but I wouldn't advise trying it 😄
  15. 5 points
    Hi all, I've been struggling with leaks in my RX400h for some time now and I finally gave up with the self-diagnostics and took it to a leak specialist based in Chelmsford. That's all they do pretty much - fix leaks. I had leaks coming into the boot, down the C pillar in two different places and obviously pooled water was making the rear (and even front) mats wet. By the end of a week of repairs followed by testing, again and again, they found all the leaks - tail light seals, boot seal, roof rails, door cards and a few others. The process is amazing - they run cams into the car, smoke, foam and all sorts and then show you videos of the leaks. The door cards were a real shocker - basically any rain hitting the windows was working it's way onto the wrong side of the door and then (mostly onto the sill and out, but still.. So, I had new door cards made up, all the leaks sealed up and whilst I was at it, the headlights re-polished and re-coated, new number plates, all the stone chips patched up, alloys sorted and finally a clay bar and nano coating..... the car honestly looks brand new now. I waited a month before posting this up to wait for some real rain and use, but it's all good, not a single leak into the bootspace or anywhere else!
  16. 5 points
    My 2015 RCF and 2020 RCF Track Edition
  17. 5 points
    Hi everyone whatever your model ,I have whilst browsing the copart fans forum a new to me parts sourcing website. This site actually uses original manufacturers part number lists and diagrams which is priceless when identifying the exact part you need. If you sign up to the garage proviso all you need to do to get the best price worldwide is to first identify the part number on the vehicle put in your vin number and they find the correct part at the best price and availability. I have checked out some of the prices and the variance is surprising and these are mostly genuine OEM parts. The site is www 7zap.com
  18. 5 points
    Did they all manage to leave ok without the help of recovery services? 😁
  19. 5 points
    A little off post but there could be a moral drawn from this story if you thwart your wife. One for the ladies A married man left work early one Friday afternoon but instead of going home spent the weekend partying with the boys. When he finally returned home on Sunday night, his wife went absolutely berserk and stayed in a mood for hours. After 7 days of swearing and screaming his wife paused for breath, pointed at him and made him an offer. "How would you like it if you didn't see me for a couple of days?" The husband could't believe his luck, so he looked up, smiled and said "that would suit me just fine!" Monday went by and he didn't see her. Tuesday and Wednesday went by and he still didn't see her. Come Thursday, the swelling had gone down sufficient for him to see her a little out of the corner of his left eye!
  20. 5 points
    Small update, managed to get the gauges finished in the nav unit and it turned out really good! Over the moon with it, just need to see if i can get the proper plug connector from Toyota for the unit. 20200622_002212.mp4
  21. 5 points
    Here we have a bad rear ender that hopefully the occupants were not in situ but it shows how well any one in the cabin would have been protected.
  22. 5 points
    Yes it is a terrific example and would imagine those miles are motorway cruising being a company car. The belt change is recommended at 10 years if that comes first. The leather will come up really nice with a professional clean and feed the paint looks good so its a keeper ,can only go up in price from here in. This was mine for 17 years.
  23. 5 points
    Not wishing to continue hijacking member Collins (Crow1342) post "Wheels, and workshop manuals GS450H" I am staring a thread on retro fitting radar distance control to the GS 350, and GS450H 2006/2011. It will almost certainly apply to other variants in the Lexus range. I have not as yet completed this but I am at a stage where I can pass on my findings so far. I must thank member Chris (Mihanicos) for his invaluable help with supplying circuit diagram information, that I could not find. A problem I have now resolved. So just to wet your appetite my progress so far. After studying the circuit diagrams for both versions of the cars "those fitted, and those not fitted" with radar cruise control known as "ACC automatic cruise control" I came to the following conclusions:- As long as the required wiring was fitted the concept was feasible. The hardware that is missing amounts to four items:- The distance control module ECU 88240-30410. The millimeter radar cruise unit transmitter 88210-62010 The steering wheel switch that sets the distance. Part number not known at the moment. A replacement Lexus logo badge for the front grill suitable for radar to pass through. After checking in the dashboard above the accelerator pedal where the distance control module should be I found the wiring, and plug for this unit just taped to the loom to be in place along with mounting threaded pins. This plug was live in that there were 12 volt feeds, and grounds at the relevent pins. All that is required to fasten the ECU is two 10mm spanner size nuts, and plug the unit in. Following the circuit diagram I found the wiring goes through two plug, and sockets joining sections of the loom. The first plug, and socket designated (AL2) then the wires continue on to plug, and socket (BA2). These are gray components mounted in the main fuse/relay box under the bonnet positioned in the centre front of this box. On inspection of this plug with multiple wires going into it I found that there were no wires fitted on the outlet side "top" for connecting pins 1 to 5. These pins are marked 1 to 5 and are the connections required to extend the wiring loom to radar transmitter that sits in front of the radiators, and behind the Lexus front badge. This part of the wiring loom is not fitted. I have bought of Ebay both the ECU 88240-30410 for £20 delivered from Lithuania advertised at £45, and the radar unit 88210-62010 for £45 advertised at £120. Do not be afraid to low bids on items marked "Make an offer". Both my bids were accepted immediately I made them meaning I did not have to wait for the seller to accept the offer. I have made up the section of wiring loom missing from the socket (BA2) to the radar unit using some old computer motherboard plugs removing the pin connectors for fitting to the (BA2) loom plug. As this only consists of five wires, and about three feet long it is not difficult to make up. The other wiring that is missing along with a micro switch is in the steering wheel. The wiring into the steering wheel through the clock spring is there, but to select the set distance the wire must be grounded each time the operating switch is pressed.I may make up my own switch mechanism, and single wire if I cannot find a secondhand switch on line. The control ECU has been fitted to the existing mounting points under the dash, and the existing wiring plugged in. When the weather improves "it's been wet here the last three days" I will fit the DIY loom, and the radar transmitter. Then I will dismantle the steering wheel to fabricate the distance control switch mechanism. I have already noted that there is a knockout in the wheel where the switch should be mounted. I will also take some pictures so that the positions of the various components can be seen, and how they are connected. Total cost so far is £65. This may rise a little if I can find a steering wheel control switch, but I am sure I can fabricate something if required or until I can obtain one. The expensive item looks like it will be the cheapest looking item. The front Lexus L badge that seems to be around £110. I may have to see what I can come up with printing wise to overcome this. I am hoping that the existing ECU's have the software already installed, and that no further ECU replacement is required. I do not think this is the case as all the ECU's on the two versions have the same part numbers. John.
  24. 5 points
    Sorry Roy I can’t help but I wouldn’t recommend this car sales place where they fit new cam belts.....to chain driven engines! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-GS-450h/353105297678?item=353105297678&pageci=d9609f1c-4d52-4835-af40-b845783ec870&redirect=mobile
  25. 4 points
    Scythe are you a detective? 🕵️‍♂️ Very thorough work! Thank you ! Quick update on her, She's being fitted with the Grom audio unit to provide updated nav and full Bluetooth audio capability, new window tints for privacy and to stop people looking in through the window - I'm amazed by the amount of attention this car has had whilst parked up, as it's rather subdued in presence and the finger prints on the glass! Then a wheel refurb as they are looking a little corroded....will keep you posted! Ps my 250 is now sold to another forum member.
  26. 4 points
    The GU prefix suggests that it was first registered by Lexus GB, who might have used it as a staff car, or demonstrator, or sold it to a dealership to use as a demonstrator. The car was on offer from lexus edgeware road for £65995 with 14791miles , then again with 19352 miles for £51995, then Lexus stockport offered it with 19659 miles for £43990. After this it was offered again at Lexus Leicester for 46850 with 19821 miles on the clock. November '08, August '09, September '09 and April '10 were the years of the offers. : o )
  27. 4 points
    Hey everyone, Firstly, I want to say a big thanks to everyone who has commented and helped me with my audio issue over the last few weeks. After weeks of pulling my hair out I managed to located a new to me Mark Levinson amp that seems to have done the trick with regards to audio playing in my SC 430. I am really grateful to you all, special thanks to Neil for answering my questions too!! In addition I also got my wheels refurbed this week and the car is looking sharp 🙂 I made this short video of my car yesterday after I picked it up and ripped the boot out (once again). Soo happy to finally be able to listen to the radio whilst driving. Thanks, Thomas
  28. 4 points
    It is likely that at some time the hybrid battery will need attention of some sort. Either battery module replacement or fitting new or used battery. There is no reason to expect problems from the transmission "much less likely than a normal auto box or even a manual if you include the clutch" The battery modules "a block of 8 cells" can be replaced at reasonable cost a used battery complete is circa £550, or a new battery is under £3000, but should then give 15 years plus of extra life. John.
  29. 4 points
    Okay, just in case anyone else has this problem, I detached the sensor from the windscreen, it just slides downwards to come off and the 'gel' pad had moved slightly. So I relocated back onto the sensor correctly, picked a few bits of grime off it, clipped it back on and I have auto wiping wipers again! The gel isn't perfectly flush, there's a few air bubbles, but it still works perfectly so all's good!
  30. 4 points
    I retired at 58, moved to the country with an acre of land and have never been so busy. My only regret is not doing it earlier! I guess you have to enjoy gardening but the pleasure it brings is immense. My guitars keep me busy during winter months!
  31. 4 points
    I just wanted to thank everyone for their help. On Tuesday I bought a 2010 RX in SE-L Premier spec but without air suspension. Paid a little more than I had originally planned, as you do, but it is in beautiful condition. Really happy with it 😀
  32. 4 points
    Have done it, the gearbox is much faster in down Gearing, did the flush because off high milage, no problem with gearbox. Before i could drive uphill in low speed in a higher gear and the car start to ratle, no this is not posible since the gearbox will gear down and rise the rpm, wery recomended.
  33. 4 points
    Auto Trader has announced the Lexus NX as the best hybrid car in their New Car awards 2020. Well deserved.
  34. 4 points
    Did you check under the seats for any snakes? 🐍
  35. 4 points
    Hi All, I've just become the proud new owner of a Lexus GS 250 (approve used from Lexus Sheffield). It's grey with black interior and only 47k miles on the clock. It's so lovely and different to all my previous cars. I have been finding myself just taking it out for a drive of an evening simply for the enjoyment of it. I can't put my finger on what makes it feel so special I am just enjoying it so much. I certainly love the engine and although it's not the most powerful it sounds lovely and I prefer it to more powerful diesels I have driven in the past. Also just to say thanks to all of you who give your feedback on questions and comments on this forum, it has been helpful in my search for a great car. Cheers!
  36. 4 points
    I forgot to add that I also took the oppertunity to change the shift position bulb to a blue LED. But when changing that bulb you need to wrap or black out underneath the bulb so that you reduce the light from bleeding. I also polished that perspex shift position trim. It's plastic so scratches up very easily. Mine was in a nasty condition so a polish has made it like new again. A few pics of that below:
  37. 4 points
    Hi all, thanks for all the replies. I picked up the silver ISF Saturday and to be honest I can hardly remember the RS4. I don’t miss it at all apart from the boot space, and to a degree the looks - it did look good in white - especially from the front, very aggressive. It was rare we really needed the estate levels of space, but I guess we will just have to pack a bit smarter and use the front seat (wife normally goes in back with junior) Swivelling car seat with Isofix is fitted, which was a struggle but not because of space but because I’m an oaf and hadn’t read the isofix instructions. Got just under 33mpg on the way back from Swindon, I could scarcely believe it. Rather less than 33mpg when I’m off motorways though.... The excitement when the noise kicks in is pretty addictive and just knowing that 5 litre is there, lurking under the swollen hood is a rather special feeling. I fancy an exhaust - but I’m out of excess cash for the moment. H&S with an x pipe anyone? Do they make a big difference to insurance?
  38. 4 points
    In a hybrid there are two batteries - a 12V battery that basically 'starts' the hybrid system and gets the car into READY mode (which is our equivalent of the engine running) and also a traction battery that drives the electric motors and is around 288 to 300V depending on the car. Conventional cars have a starter motor that, when you turn the key, will crank the engine to get it running. The starter motor can draw more than 300A from the battery to start the car and when the engine is running, the alternator will replace the electrical energy used and keep the 12V battery charged up but it's main job is to run all the car's electrical systems - the 12V battery is only used for starting. Our hybrids don't have a starter motor as such and they don't have an alternator either. Our 12V batteries only have to boot the hybrid computers and one or two other things and it takes less than 20A to do that job, which is a lot different to the 300A a conventional starter motor would need. Because of that, Toyota/Lexus thought they could save a bit of money by only installing small-capacity 12V batteries, which is fair enough, except that the downside is that the 12V battery goes flat quicker than a larger battery would. For instance, it's not unusual for the 12V battery to go flat if parked up for a couple of weeks at the airport while you're away on holiday. Quite a few of us carry something like this in the car just in case it happens. So, that's the 12V side. Remember I said that our cars don't have alternators? Well, it's because the petrol engine doesn't run all the time - the car sometimes switches off the engine and runs on electric motors, which are powered by the traction battery. Anything that would normally be run by a belt from the engine, such as the alternator, the aircon compressor or the power steering pump, are all driven by electric motors so that they can still be used when the petrol engine is off. In fact, once the car is READY then the traction battery feeds all of the car's electrical needs, just like the alternator does in a conventional car. Taking the alternator as an example, the 12V battery starts the car and gets it into READY mode. Once READY, some clever electronics in what's known as a DC/DC Converter (our equivalent of the alternator), steps down the 300V from the traction battery to around 14.5V to keep the 12V battery charged. Different boxes of electronics do the same (albeit at different voltages/currents) for the aircon compressor and other stuff, all run by the traction battery. The other main job of the traction battery is to provide power for the electric motors that drive the wheels when the petrol engine is off. This battery is mainly charged by regenerative braking. The regen braking system takes the kinetic energy that would normally be wasted in heat by friction of the brake pads against the discs and turns it into electricity to charge the traction battery. Every time you lift your foot off the accelerator you'll see the power meter needle drop into the 'Charge' zone of the meter, but maybe not so far. When you actively press the brake pedal the needle will drop right down to the bottom of the 'Charge' scale, indicating maximum rate of charge. If the traction battery is dropping low on charge but no braking is taking place to charge it, the hybrid system will run the petrol engne, which in turn runs one of the motor/generators (MG1 and MG2) in a backward rotation to act as a generator and charge the battery. I often get MG1 and MG2 mixed up so that may not be strictly correct but you get the idea - it's one or the other. It can be quite noticable if the car isn't moving at the time, which is why I think that this may be what you're feeling. However, as I said above, if the car is in neutral then this won't happen, which is why you need to keep it in drive. Something else to bear in mind is that these are hybrid cars, not electric cars. If you run out of petrol, the most you'll get on battery alone is maybe a couple of miles, no more, and it also opens up a whole host of other problems. To be a fully-functional car, three things are needed as they all work together - the 12V battery, the traction battery and the petrol engine. Hope that helps, Herbie
  39. 4 points
    The lack of noise when the car is accelerated hard seems a common fault for most owners. This feature only seems to work for motoring journalists. Glad you are enjoying the car. Welcome to the enlightened minority. Paul Thanks Paul
  40. 4 points
    May I throw this thought into the ring, please? The final para of the quoted post is very similar to me unfortunately driving 9 hours round-trip to Southwest Lexus, near Bristol. PLEASE EVERYONE AVOID THIS PLACE LIKE COVID 19. The black LS is still advertised (location Yate) on other sites. In reality, despite the proprietors encouraging words in the advert and having spoken to him on the phone, I found this car to actually have 1) a damaged lower N/S/R door 2) an alloy that needed robust remedial work 3) a cracked windscreen 4) a piece missing from top of the central console missing and 5) the car noticeably pulled to the left on the test drive. He said that these were insignificant or he hadn’t noticed them - ahem! The vendor was a hook and an utter chancer. He is still trading adding aRange Rover recently to his collection of dubious cars. Look up his Company’s status on Companies Hse website. I believe seeing, smelling, touching and driving is believing. Trust me I’m (regrettably) living proof. Take NO chances would be my advice. Good luck 👍
  41. 4 points
    Thanks F.A. we bought the Audi July last year after a very complicated decision making process involving a new baby, a dieselphobic mother (dieselgate) and a petrolhead father who didn’t want any of the SUVs he could afford. We’ve lost a fair bit on the rs4 in 11 months, but when you’re not happy you’re not happy, and I wasn’t. I loved the 2/3 hours I spent in the ISF and I remember the moment I made the decision. I had parked in some deserted industrial estate in Swindon and I was just standing looking at it from various angles from 20 yards away and it struck me: ”I love this thing”.
  42. 4 points
    Just got it,love it👍👍 I drove back from the garage and it’s a lovely drive,only problem was that there was so much to look at inside and fiddle about with and rice at the same time. don’t miss the gears at all they have gave me 30 days to decide if I want the smart protect which starts at £305-£509 and the alloy wheel and tyre insurance £434 and GAP insurance at £295-£430 looking at nearly £1500 anyone else have any of those?
  43. 4 points
    You're welcome 🙂 You can't manually select EV (Electric Vehicle) Mode and expect it to go from 0 to 60mph or whatever, but my RX450h has switched to battery at about 40mph during normal driving. It's a bit of a difficult concept to explain but you'll soon get used to it when you're doing it yourself. Not really but that's where most of it comes from. Every time you lift your foot up from the accelerator pedal you'll see the power meter dip into the 'Charge' area so it is charging, although not by much. However, when you actively brake then you'll see the power meter dip right down to the bottom of the scale, which indicates maximum charging. Never, really. I've had my RX450h for over two years now and never selected Neutral at all. No it won't - but don't worry about that because the traction battery will last at least a couple of months with the car not being used, possibly even longer. The way the system works is that the 12v battery only has to boot the computers to get the hybrid system running and into READY mode, along with a couple of other things. In a conventional car the starter motor will draw about 300A or more to crank the engine, so the battery has to be quite big and beefy. Getting a hybrid system up and running takes less than 20A, which is why Lexus/Toyota thought it a good idea to save some money and only provide a small capacity 12v battery. I can see their rationale for this but the downside is that the car can't be left standing as long as a conventional car before the 12v battery goes flat. So, the 12v battery gets the car into READY mode, which is our equivalent of the engine running in a conventional car. As I said above, our cars don't have starter motors or alternators, but in READY mode the 12v battery is being charged by means of a DC/DC converter, which takes the 288v of the traction battery and converts it to 14.5v or thereabouts. When the petrol engine is needed, the hybrid system energises MG1 (or is it MG2? I always get mixed up!) and spins the engine up to about 1,000rpm before the system applies fuel and a spark to fire it, which is why all three things (12v battery, traction battery and petrol engine) are needed for the car to run. If the traction battery were ever to go flat then you'd have to call out the dealer or some other specialist who has the knowledge and the equipment to deal with it - at 288v, it's not something the AA, RAC or other breakdown service is equipped to deal with.
  44. 4 points
    Evening everyone, nice to be here! I have recently bought a one-owner, fsh 2003 RX300 in great nick and I'm really chuffed with it. Only real problem was a hissing radio which I was aware of when I bought it. I eventually narrowed down to a fault in the amplifier so I replaced it with one from a scrapper (£90) and all good now. It was a nightmare to access mind, I expected over-engineering but really.....! Other than that there's condensation in one of the headlamps which i'll sort at some point (I made a half hearted attempt with a hair dryer and a tube of sealant but it steamed straight up again next time I drove the car!) and a slightly irritating clicking noise behind the dash which I presume is that servo thing that seems to be an issue on these from what I've read. I'll sort it if it actually fails but it's working fine atm. And that's it. An amazing car for not a lot of money, couldn't be happier!
  45. 4 points
    Dave's a star. It's a little known fact that he'll take part payment in Greggs sausage rolls too. He also doesn't mind pointing you in the right direction if you fancy tackling something yourself. His Lexus knowledge is encyclopedic.
  46. 4 points
    No problem, Here is my 1982 1st Gen RX7 Elford Turbo version. Clsssic 80's gold/brown colour, The black one was my first 3rd Gen RX7 i got in 2005.
  47. 4 points
    Im sure you wont find a 300hp NX450h+ plug in underpowered 😉 As for various posts regarding Tesla model 3 and their sales - lets not forget that many of these sales are simply down to the cost of the vehicle being relatively reasonable and 100% allowance on company car users. Problem is, Ive seen more model 3's on the road than the new 3 series! I think most of us are here because we don't want to drive the same grey car as everyone else, and many Lexus buyers who won't necessarily go on forums or are any kind of enthusiasts, are the same. From what I know, and the models that are coming soon - Lexus have got some new models up their sleeves (including the return of the GS......)
  48. 3 points
    I bought one from Halfords myself for 2.0l and used it once on mine because I had not realised you needed to do a weekly hour with the system at Ready rather than just a 4 mile run around the block with a downhill section .. that was enough to keep the main battery up to charge but not the 12V one. It worked perfectly and I used the under bonnet connections to start it up... I now keep this in the door pocket just in case.
  49. 3 points
    Yes it is grey with almost new Michelin cross climates all round. Here are some photos:
  50. 3 points
    Hi there - these diagrams helped me find my problem so thanks very much. My issue was with the rear drainage on the sunroof which was causing water to drip down the rear pillar and into the rear passenger footwell (especially when the car was facing uphill!) I had to locate the bottom of the pipe which is behind the rear wheel arch and I discovered it had a kink in it stopping the water. Released the kink and boom! all gone. Bit of tape to reinforce the wall and stop it happening again and hopefully all sorted. Getting to the bottom hose here pretty easy... Images attached!

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