rottwailer2001

"Did you try the tape test?"

I'll try the tape test now. I'll tape all windows. The first time only i tape the driver window and the wind noise was there, because i've the noise in the passenger side too. Today it is rain in Madrid, but when I will try i'll post the results.

Thanks

I taped the border of all windows and the noise reduced about 60%. I'll go to my dealer.

"Did you try the tape test?"

I'll try the tape test now. I'll tape all windows. The first time only i tape the driver window and the wind noise was there, because i've the noise in the passenger side too. Today it is rain in Madrid, but when I will try i'll post the results.

Thanks

Which are the other "couple of things"? I ask to you, because my dealer is very quickly solving my problem. We don't know why you get this noise, it must be caused by the big size of the mirrors and the problem is solved. They don't bother for this problem. I know more persons with this problem an of of them get the same answer to the problem. In Madrid, there are 4 dealers, and 3 of them are the same. I've tried all of them with the same answer. They said that Lexus Spain don't know the origin of this problem, and i would like to find it. The noise is very annoying when you drive more than 50 kilometers in highway at 120 kn/h.

Thanks

We all know the new paint is very susceptible to scratches and stone chips, but has anyone actually used a paint thickness gauge to measure how thick the coating is? I ask the question because I have collected a stone chip on the roof...heard the thump when driving down the M4 .

The Autopia site has a pretty good local repair procedure that basically fill the chips with touch up and then uses 1500 grit to blend back before using a swirl polish. However, my suspicion is that the clear coat the second generation is pretty thin, and the wet & dry may remove it causing more of an imperfection than the original chips.

Failing that it may be a roof panel respray through the stealership :tsktsk:

After retouching you can try this prodcut http://www.langka.com/complete-paint-chip-...r-kit-p-30.html. It is less aggresive that grit. If you use grit i'd recommed you 4000 grit sand paper.

yeah, i know, but my car has "b pillar wind nose" problem, and i think that is due to air goes through this trim, cause water goes through air goes through easily inside the car and mekes the annoying noise when you drive at 120 km/h or up.

It was only a proof for b pillar wind noise problem.

I have a problem, and i don't know if someone has this problem too and if it is solved.

When i wash my car, i use a "karcher" (pressurized water). If i put the tip of my hose near the corner of the door i would get water through the weathre strip inside my car.

My dealer has changed the 4 wheather strip of the windows at door, but i have the same problem. In the rear doors the problem is worse, the rear seat get a lot of water drops (i don't have photo of this).

Does someone how can i solve it?

I think that this problem causes the B pillar wind noise, becuase if the presurized water goes through the weather strip, the air could goes through more easy when i drive at 120km/h or more. What do you think?

put the tip of the hose on the glass not in the paint. Water goes in through the glass and the trim where the glass goes up and down, not in the weather strip of door. Exactly, water goes in through the upper corner of window and the upper edge too.

I don't put presurized water directly on the paint

"Leakage through the top of the door trim will need rectification by re-positioning the hole-filling sponge, or adding more sponge (whichever is easier)"

How can i repositioning this sponge? I am looking at my door trim but it is glued to the car. Could you tell me how i can repositioning?

Thanks

Ok, in Madrid there is an online RS shop, nad i can order from the uk online rs shop too, but now my problem is that i can't locate this product in the online shop http://rswww.com.

Has the product other name? Could someone tell me th reference?

Thanks

Where can i get 'crack test developer' spray? Could you tell me any commercial make?

Thanks in advance

How can I can do this?

Frame to seal print should ideally be around 8~10 mm wide, but as low as 5 mm should still afford you a good seal, but anything less should be counteracted by adjusting the door fitting condition slightly inwards(usually with the door-lock striker (latch loop on door aperture panel on 'B' pillar). A gap in the print will indicate a leak path.

Thanks in advance

Another reason not to buy another one! Possibly BMW next for me.

well, I disagree here.

I was choosing between 320d and IS220d and I still read discussions about beemers with one eye ;) and trust me, e90 is considered as worst 3xx ever (also by owners!), not just cheap interior (which looks really crap, Citroen C5 looks better) - and rattles are included in the price :) but also the suspension is harsh, car is heavy understeery. The harshness can by sorted by changing tires with non-RFT, but then you have to buy a spare one, because bmw doesn't provide spare tire.

Or - have you heard bmw professional audio system? it's an extra option. It plays much worse than the basic one in IS.

So for me - between IS and BMW, the lexus is a clear winner, but I'd like to know who would win the battle between new C-klass and IS. Haven't driven C-klass yet.

Guys - I have written to Lexus about this, had an initial response, and am asking some more questions as the initial response tells me nothing.

Could you post the question and the answer? Thanks in advance

Mine - no pictures but it was the seal on the door itself, at the top. There is a "lip" which didn't quite fit.

Have you changed the seal at your car? Did the change solve the problem?

"The Mole", doy you know anything abut "b pillar" wind-noise at 120km/h? My IS220d has ana annoying wind noise in both "b" pillar near the ears of driver and passenger and it is very annoying. Do you know any solution for this problem?

Thanks in advance

If you at my topics you'll find I complained about this when first got my SE-L...posts will be around January/February 2006. Lexus changed out ALL the rubber seals on both front doors, including the glass to door seals but it made little or no difference to the wind noise. Finally solution was a very small adjustment to the door catch/lock which stopped the noise. However, the car is so exceptionally quiet that the side fresh air vents vent cause slight 'wind noise' when directed up the side of the glass :)

Could you put some photo or describe the catch/lock fit to describe to my dealer in order to try to remove my wind annoying noise.

Thanks

It is an off-topic, but "The Mole", doy you know anything abut "b pillar" wind-noise at 120km/h? My IS220d has ana annoying wind noise in both "b" pillar near the ears of driver and passenger and it is very annoying. Do you know any solution for this problem?

Thanks in advance

I'd suggest that you start a new topic for that, for several reasons:

Anyone who does know about it would see the topic in RSS, but wouldn't know you were asking about it in here, so can't answer.

Also People in the future will want to know the same thing, but won't find your question and the answers cos it's buried in another topic.

A lot of the time Off-Topic doesn't matter, but for a case like this it kinda does.

You can always prod the mole in pm to look at the topic, if he doesn't notice it.

Hope you don't take offense at that.

G

Ok, I do it

"The Mole", doy you know anything abut "b pillar" wind-noise at 120km/h? My IS220d has ana annoying wind noise in both "b" pillar near the ears of driver and passenger and it is very annoying. Do you know any solution for this problem?

Thanks in advance

The main reason for poor mpg is driving style. It will not suddenly improve by 40% as you do more mileage.

We have had several customers complain about poor mpg, and several report that they are happy with the 40 - 45 mpg that they are getting.

I personally have driven a couple of customers cars who have complained about poor mpg and instantly got 38 - 43 without trying as I know how to extract the best from them.

The engine is very powerfull and using the torque and power, enjoying the 2k + rpm shove in the back when the turbo really kicks in will yield high comsuption - as will batting up and down the motorway at 85+ mph

I can't give a set of instructions of how to drive a car as that would be nothing short of patronising, but they can and will give decent mpg if driven in a certain manner that doesn't involve driving Miss Daisy, or labouring 6th at 60mph.

It was the same when the RX400h was launched. Some customers came back complaining they could only get 27mpg. You ask the customer to take you out in their car and instantly they are putting their foot down, overtaking all the traffic using heavy on or off throttle inputs. You ask to swap and drive their car back to the centre driving smoothly and in sympathy with the system and technology and hey presto 35mpg. The customer then says "Well, if you're going to drive like that then of course it will do the figures..."

Yup..... Performance OR economy, not both at the same time.

I understand that lots of you might be used to driving VW/Audi 1.9 tdi's with good performance and 50+ mpg, BMW's too, and to suddenly find that you have to struggle to get 40 must be a bit of a shock, but as soon as the competition bring their Euro 5 complient diesels out, it will be the same story for them. Lexus were just the first to market with a Euro 5 diesel. The emissions equipment on the new diesels is extreme to say the least and really does strangle the motor.

It is an off-topic, but "The Mole", doy you know anything abut "b pillar" wind-noise at 120km/h? My IS220d has ana annoying wind noise in both "b" pillar near the ears of driver and passenger and it is very annoying. Do you know any solution for this problem?

Thanks in advance

Hello my IS has wind noise in both "B pillars" when I drive up to 120 km/h and I tried to seal the doors, the handles, the windos and the noise keep on. Has anybody this problem? Have you solve it?

Thanks in advance

Do you have log in codes??????

I don't have log in codes. I don't know if we could pay for a subcription for the forum members.

hmmm obviosly nobody is interested!!!

I'm very interested, if you will buy the technical info CD, contact with me, and we could pay the half for it.

In this page, we could have on-line access to tech info and TBS too, but I thinlk that is the american version

http://www.alldata.com/service_provider/

What do you think?

Have you suffer problems with the paint of IS (2nd gen.)? My IS 220d is silver and I think that the paint is awful, becuase I have a lot of chips in my hood because the paint chips when you look it. What do you think about this paint?

I think they forgot to put it in as a feature. BMWs and mercs has it.

Not just BMs and Mercs, can't think of a car that doesn't have it

You must be talking absolutely brand-new models only right? Cos I've owned or driven Vauxhalls, VWs, Audis, Nissans, Fords, Lexus, Mercs, BMWs and Toyotas extensively in the last 5 years, and not a single vehicle from any of those makes has had autolocking doors.

In fact I can only think of one that does - the common London black cab!

Mike

I'm sorry, I had a Renault Megane II (year 2000) and it closed the doors automatically, and my new IS doesn't do, it's a pity

Hi, I'm new in the forum. I've an IS 220D (European model) and I'd like to know if it is possible that doors lock autamatically when the car is in movement? I read the FAQ and I tried the IG-ON 5 sec. lock ... but it doesn't work in my IS 220d.

Thanks in advance

The diesel tends to do this to 1200rpm, so it happens on all to some extent

In my IS220d it only occurs when I switch on the air conditioner, but only until the engine has the rigth temperature. The engine goes up to 1200 rpm at neutral, when it is in the right temperature the rpm goes down to 600. It is due to the optimun performance of the air conditioner is when the engine is in the right temperature