Yakuza

I have a problem that has occured over the last 3 months.

I found the brakes getting softer, on the first depress, but when I then removed foot pressure and re-applied, the brakes where hard (as normal). Although, when I need to do a emergency stop on the first depress, the car would stop very well, without locking, but still soft and spongy, compared to my LS400.

The crank pulley failed a few months ago, and on collection the garage (Nationwide, Aldershot) reported the driver rear brake calliper system may be the cause and required possible inspection.

On collection, the exhaust started to blow under the heat shield on the front middle section and the engine started to backfire with very sluggish drive power.

I was advised to replace from the front middle onwards backwards (front middle, middle, two silencers and chrome covers), which I did at great expense, two weeks later!

On replacement of the exhaust system, the backfire was still there and after several days of repair and replacement of the plugs, leads and coil for cylinder 1 & 5, it then needed further diagnoses and it was found that the fuel injector to cylinder 1 required replacement, again at great expense, especially in manpower.

During this I asked them to further inspect the brakes, so they bleeded the brake system. Their diagnosis was the whole brake master cylinder system requires replacement at a cost of over £2500! But no mention of the driver rear calliper.

Could I ask any experience members, how should I approach this repair?

I have read on this forum, that a sensor with the cylinder system could have failed but the only repair method is to replace the complete master system, but why can the sensor not just be replaced? Or could it be that the driver rear driver cylinder be the cause (e.g. does ceased brake piston heads etc, cause soft brakes)?

You help and advice would be greatly appreciated!

This is quite a story! :) I can help as I'm very local to you and GS300 owner and other similar for years. Please send me Private Msg me urgently. I really think you need some guidance before you blow that wodge of cash mate.

Post back here if any probs with Priv Msg'ing (new?)

Spark plug gap?

Hey! I think this is bottom ball joints, and your problem too. My discs and pads are perfect (new) and I get the 70-60mph wobble thing... it's ball-joints and/or other links. This is typical.

Discs just made mine *slightly* better, but no fix.

Have a look for any loose or disconnected pipes as well.. also the condition of them, (brittle, cracked)

John

Watch for pipes with length-wise cracks too.. tricky to spot when cold if you don't bend the pipes right. Just remove all vac hoses (thin rubber hoses) and replace, looking for condition as John says.

Sounds like air leak post-MAF.

Does it ever misfire through the revs under throttle? coilpacks... or spark breakdown anyways.

The gearbox only switches into overdrive above a certain temperature (by sensor), and there are two speeds sensors, gearbox and one for speedo. That's why there is some confusion with japanese import speed conversions causing problems in the UK.

You really need that gearbox error code. It's worth the time/money to get it.

Fuel ECU - well documented fault for stalls and engine cut-outs when warm especially. However, have you got a fault relay in your fuse box that is responsible for the complete cutout?

Recirc air helps keep it icey cool.. rather than fresh air mode.

Get a digital thermometer on the air con output, and measure it. As temperature is often confused with humidity in aircon systems.

lovely motor mate. I like the wide rear alloys especially on those pics. More pics plz... :)

Yes, the wheel and wheel nuts hold the disc to the hub, when refitting, make sure the correct torque setting s used and the bolts are tightened in the correct order

I've got the exact same problem, and I've already done brand new discs and pads. It's still there! argh! only over 70mph as you say, and under light to medium braking and then gone below 60mph totally.

I've been advised by Lexus mechanic that it may be one of the arms (as it's multilink not double wishbone there's loads of arms) and/or ball joints. Best bet recommended to me was the arms first as they're cheaper, but it's still big bucks. Any thoughts guys?

Would the wheel bolt torque make a difference *immediately* on brand new discs and pads?

new batt mate.. this does weird things when apparently not at fault, when actually it's not got the juice. These 2jz's either fire-up or they don't. I've seen the dashlight light up like a xmas tree flashing on a bad batt (trickle-charged, boosted, you name it).

Just wait till the alarm goes bonkers on a dodge batt.

Hi,

I was looking to change the lower part of the seat and not the whole seat, as for the reasons you have specified.

Are there any companies that specialise in refurbushing the seat, as I think it only needs new foam etc?

someone can confirm that the gs300 has sprung seats... hope so, just assumed.

<sigh> just not convinced that the seats with much less mileage are more comfy or even the same as a Soarer yet.. and they were the bog standard seats - the old Lexus mantra "you arrive as refreshed as when you left".

I see all the same things that you're talking about with the "sometimes" slight hesistation to select gear... and slight slow pickup "sometimes". The rev raises, do you mean around 2k-3k rpm? As that's torque converter lockup and that's the super smoothness.

The "sometimes" thing - I've tried one thing out. It's the i- in the gearbox, the intelligent part working out your style, and quickly too. If you are driving in super-slow traffic and then take-off, there's a slight delay while the ECU works out what's going on. And the same coming down the gears. Try this... cruise 20mph, and then give it a bit of power - feel the lag there, a bit too much. Now seconds later, cruise again at 20mph, and do the same.. It'll pick up this time.

Whack her in sports mode, and try some spirited driving - the box soon works out that you're not messing around. It's all Lexus smoothed ECU algorithms to provide that smooth pickup over surging I reckoned.

Sometimes makes the the VVTi-ed 3L engine feel more like a turbo in response, but the weird thing is the increase in torque as the revs go up to 5k-6k. Weird after the 400bhp 1JZ and the other (standard hp.torq) turbo'ed diesels that I drive.

oh, and one last thing. Black gearbox oil is BAD news in an auto-Toyota/Lexus. There is a gearbox oil filter, but even the service recommendation is the life of the box. Basically, it shouldn't be black. Or just red?

I know what i'm talking about here.

Have you considered replacing the Fuel ECU?

This really sounds like Fuel ECU failure from many other experiences with your motor.

Cost 200 quid or 2nd-hand maybe less than 100. I can point in general direction if you ned help sourcing cheap.

To diagnose before spending cash, you need to bridge the fuel ECU out at the diagnostic port.

Where are you at? where is the car and who's got it in for work?

I know what i'm talking about here.

Have you considered replacing the Fuel ECU?

This really sounds like Fuel ECU failure from many other experiences with your motor.

Cost 200 quid or 2nd-hand maybe less than 100.

To diagnose before spending cash, you need to bridge the fuel ECU out at the diagnostic port.

Where are you at? where is the car and who's got it in for work?

For alignment - be sure they use 4-wheel alignment. Ask for print out. Even some dealers are not trained in the use of the kit - so the answer "yes we own a 4-wheel alignment setup" is not enough.

I've driven 100 miles to the right place for alignment. It's that important, notwithstanding that the bushes will wear and change alignment from perfection anyway.

What are the emissions like without the cats? have you checked? they might even be inside reg's???? These engines are pretty awesome.

The JZ series in the GS are just.... sublime. Turbine like. The short stroker 1jz (not GS) is a doddle to tune, and the 2jz breathes fire when blown. Yamaha engines.

I wonder about the cats? 3-way system... <sigh>

The benefits really come on the decat on the turbo'ed motors - back pressure release ahh. breathing again. The blown 1jz can hit safety boostcut ECU cut with a decat - it's that sensitive. But are the benefits really worth it on the exhaust-side for the normally aspirated models?

It's the RW that gives it away.. they're re-writable - double-trouble for compatibility with players.

Use CD-R's (preferrably Ritek dye if you can find them), and avoid CD-RW like the plague.

Besides it's alot slower to burn RW's.

Is this with the gearbox switch in PWR or normal? and do you have VSC switched on? they both make difference to how quickly the torque converter locks up and what gear is selected. Or they should make a difference.... is it always the same?

What procedure are you following to check the oil? Is that hot or cold?

Slow gear selection can be caused by worn bands in your gearbox. Do you take the gearbox into Neutral at traffic lights? as this causes wear on the bands.

Here's the test... fhow long does it take to engage Reverse? It should be longer than Drive, don't worry. But not seconds.

Overall, doesn't sound that bad mate. :)

Does the 98/99 Gs300 sport model really have loads of speakers (over 6)? It's a tape deck fronted, multi-CD changer. Where are the speakers, what size are they? Are the cardboard thin or poly?

Sorry about the Q's.. I'm a newbie to the audio on this model.

What about the obvious upgrades to mp3 and quality.

My changes are not so smooth, I can feel the changes.. bump. bump. tiny bumps mind.

Is the GS300 98-01 a 4 gear model? With the "i" tranmission?

And should it be super-smooth? Specifically, if it's 4 gear only, how can I choose to use only the first 3? .. like turning off OverDrive. Is it D, 4, 3... etc, on the stick.

Mine is a Sports, and I've tried with VSC on and off. Not the same though, it's harsher on the VSC off. What does VSC actually do? Any technical doc's available?

Gear changes are super smooth on mine under throttle.

Any help, experiences much appreciated! :)

Black-on-black chassis and seats... lovely car to look at.

First/second post so I thought I'd say hi to all! and a special thanks for Kev for the extras that he let me have on purchase. Top bloke.

Is there a car that is more comfortable/smooth at 30mph? or 50mph? not much subjective difference noticed other than the number inside the cabin. Loving it.

Should my gearlever lights be lit up? gear numbers etc on the central area by the lever.

Chris

Hi all I have owned my GS300 Mk1 for 2 years now and the other day my Speedo stopped working and the overdrive light keeps flashing.

Can anyone Help me out point me in the right derection what can it be and where is it located ect,ect. I would be gratfull for any help anyone could

give me. Many Thanks Joe

Sounds like speed sensor from gearbox. You need to confirm the error code off the ECU - look around for information on your engine code (2JZ-GE) and the correct procedure for using a jumper on the diagnostic port under the bonnet. It flashes a sequence that you can decode.

There are two speed sensors on the 2jz-ge, one for the transmission, one for the cluster.

Sounds like this fault code 42 from the link link to FAQ on error codes

Speed sensor probs are not expensive, and just probably bad connection or bust sensor.