norlec

In my recently bought Gs300 the only thing missing is whatever fits inside the arm rest, It looks like it's on a sprung runner, My question is, What is it? a cd tray? drinks holder is my guess. Finally does anyone know where i can source one? Looked on ebay but nothing similar.

Thanks

Dylan.

Mine houses the control panel for the ejector seat, forward facing laser cannons and switch for revolving the numberplates.

Mwahahaha!

SILLY BILLY LOL.

Hello,

My 2001 GS430 SE has developed the dreaded ABS/VSC OFF Christmas Tree Lights on the dash together with a VERY LOUD ABS Warning Buzzer!

(Its also making a noise that sounds like an animals stuck in the engine!)

I understand from the lexus dealer that the ABS Actuator is failing and the quote to fix it is £2780!

I asked for a market valuation from the dealer and they said the car was only worth about £2800!

Clearly it isn't worth the repair but it has sentimental value to me.

From reading these forums it seams to be a known problem with the only solution being a complete Master Brake Cylinder unit.

So I rang round our local breakers but no luck.

I also tried the web based search sites with no luck.

Can anyone suggest any options / help?

Any recommendations of breakers / scrapyards to try ?

Has anybody got a second hand one for sale?

please help...

Sorry to hear of this problem on your car. The problem you mention regarding the Master Brake Cylinder affected the Seies 2 GS 300 until the 2001 model facelift which was in November 2000. The unit was replaced by a larger unit which appears to have solved that problem. I have not heard of it affecting the GS 430, although there may well be isolated failures. The ABS Actuator is surely not the same component though?

How long have you owned the car?

The car has been in the family since 2004. I was LED to believe the ABS actuator is part of the Master Brake Cylinder assembly. Can it be replaced seperately?

No it cannot be replaced seperately and they cannot be repaired I went down that road that is why they are so expensive because it includes the ABS unit as well,if you google GS300 brake master cylinder there is a company selling new for £1400.00 what ever you do don't get one from a scrapyard because they were all the same rubbish up to 2002.

As was said they have gone the same way as Mercedes I sold my Mercedes because of common problems (springs breaking,rust,electrical problems of which there are loads) bought a Lexus GS300 sport and wow what a mistake nothing but trouble only had it for 13 months and I always had my hand in my wallet,I couldn't get shot quick enough all the prestige cars are the same now just a sign of the times mass producing.

You guys will probably laugh but I did a PX for a VW Passat Highline TDI with all the toys and what a car, I bought one because my brother has had one for 3 years trouble free and for a diesel they really shift I have just had a remapp done on mine and it really flies I get 42 MPG local driving and 65/68 on a run.

My lexus was doing 18/20 local and 28 on a run so no competition there.

Fildigger - your avatar picture... some of us read this at work. Please remember that images like that get logged in caching proxy servers and so on!

I think that's borderline 'NSFW' (Not Safe For Work)...

Agreed whats the point in a picture like that my kids log on here as well

Searching previously on the forum I know there've been a number of questions here about this that remain unanswered.

Having dug around for a while to find a suitable OBD2 reader for my 99 GS, I was concerned that most cheapies on the market only read engine data and I wanted abs/srs functionality too.

I plumped for the Autel MaxiDiag JP701 and it works at treat - I've just read and reset the ABS ecu and a number of engine management codes lurking too following hydraulic brake booster replacement.

I bought mine from talktomycar.co.uk for 199 plus next day delivery. They're not the cheapest place but they were the only place that provided proper contact details, like phone number, and very promptly answered my questions before buying.

Hope this helps,

Simon

Hi Simon

I have just read this after replying to your booster question in the braking section and that is good information for the forum members because I tried for ages to get one to work on my car and the information from other members was forget it as the 1999 was not set up for OBD11 so you have proved them wrong.

Too late for me though as I sold mine 3 weeks ago as it was a money pit with problems plus the high fuel charges,now bought a VW passat TDI and what a fantastic car for a diesel it really moves and I am getting 48mpg local driving and high 50mpg sometimes 60mpg plus on a run so well pleased.

Norman

I must admit I'm a bit disappointed nobody's bothered to reply!

Anyway, I ended up sending the unit to a company called BBA-Reman, a remanufacturer, who have come back to say they can't do anything with the unit - it was worth a try. So, while I still haven't been able to do a full test myself, I've plumped for a new unit. Surprisingly I've got a good price through Lexus at just over 1500 quid all in.

Now, anyone who has changed out this unit before, can you confirm whether the ecu needs anything reset and advise a suitable OBDII scanner that can read the abs system ecu as most cheapies don't seem to be able to do this? Will the pc based scantool and related software do this or is there another make/model?

I would really appreciate some help here.

Cheers,

Simon

Hi Simon

I also had your problem with my 1999 GS300 Sport and you will find from other members on the forum although Lexus have put the connector in for an OBD11 scanner there is not a scanner on the market thats works as they weren't set up for it I tried 3 and none worked.

Garages with the proper scanners will be able to read the codes but when I enquired from various companys the cheapest for these cars was £1650.00 which is a proper garage scanner,I also had to replace my brake master/booster unit because as you found out they cannot be repaired I got mine from eBay brand new still in the Lexus box for £900.00 which was very lucky.

I had my unit fitted by an indie garage that I used to service my car and they had one hell of a job and had to contact Lexus in the end so if you are thinking of fitting it yourself be aware it is a B-----d of a job.

Good luck

Norman

Cheers Phil, much appreciated :winky:

That was far too much money anyway for a Mk1.

I have just sold my 1999 Mk2 sport with 87000 miles with the brand new brake master booster unit costing £2000 (common fault with these cars) plus complete service, 7 months tax, new disc's and pads front new pads back,wheels refurbished.

Everything working 100% and I said on this forum that it was for sale as another member was looking for one but he decided I was too far away from him.

As you were so keen to buy one I am surprised you did not see it.

Sold it for £2500.00

Norman

Hi Guys

Leaving the Lexus forum today the car has cost me a lot of money plus lousy MPG nice car but gone for a VW passat ( 1 year old with 12000 miles) nice drive and very good on fuel.

Thanks for all your help in the past been a good experience this forum.

Best Regards To All.

Norman

My Son in law had an on the spot fine for using his fog lights.

I would advise reading the Highway Code. as Sagitar says.

Rule 94 says - "You MUST NOT - use front or rear fog lights unless visibility is seriously reduced. You MUST switch them off when visibility improves to avoid dazzling other road users"..

People seem to think it is cool to drive with there front foglights on but they are a menace and you WILL get pulled over by the BILL.

Y'know wot I'm thinkin????... What for? and, Why bother??? Just keep yer Lexy normal. They look great as they are. or, go for some more classy mod's???

Col.. :winky: :D :) ;)

getting pulled is nothing new, been pulled before for doing some really dumb stuff (such as 90 in a 30, doing 120 on the m25, etc...) and i still have a clean licence. dont ask me why they always let me off but they do. confuses the hell out of me. could have lost my licence around 6 times over.

as for just keeping my lexy normal, cars are my hobby. i like to play with them in my spare time. i brought the lexus cos it has so much potential for what i can do to it. my main plan is to drop a 2jz-gte in, saving up for that at the moment. it keeps me busy and stops me "vandilising phone boxes and mugging grannys" cos thers bugger all else to do around here.

as for converting them to driving lights, as far as im aware, it is not a legal requirement fo have front fogs, just rear. and there are alot of vechiles on the road with driving lights hooked up to their full beams. it wouldnt take alot to fully convert the fogs to driving lights, but would like to be able to use them when its foggy too.

Just carry on buddy and do what you want with your car I can't understand why you are asking guys on the forum for there opinions because it is obvious you have decided to do it anyway

My Son in law had an on the spot fine for using his fog lights.

I would advise reading the Highway Code. as Sagitar says.

Rule 94 says - "You MUST NOT - use front or rear fog lights unless visibility is seriously reduced. You MUST switch them off when visibility improves to avoid dazzling other road users"..

People seem to think it is cool to drive with there front foglights on but they are a menace and you WILL get pulled over by the BILL.

Am i the only one who things the wheels look stuipid, simply because half of the wheel is inside the arch?

Nice looking car, but in my mind, the wheels just ruin it!!

Agreed

Very wise move there I have had 3 Mercedes and to put it mildley they are rust buckets,broken springs auto gearbox faults and electrical faults a plenty.

Just go on to this site and see the problems for a prestige car it is quite scary. http://mbclub.co.uk/forums/

We all know Lexus aren't the best cars on fuel but there is no contest between a Lexus and all the other stuff (BMW, Mercedes,audi, etc) I expect I am bios though because I love my Lexus. :winky:

Norman

Hi Colin

Many thanks for that update it does annoy me when you get incorrect information from the main dealer and the garage that replaced my fluid did not say anything either.

That is why this forum is well worth being a member of. ;)

Brilliant job there looks great but wow what a lot of work you put into it but well worth it.

Nothing wrong with your English either.

Thanks Stevie

Brilliant Mate

Norman ;)

Toyota must have it wrong then because before I had mine done I checked to see how much I would need because I did not want a partial replacement.

On the link I left for Toyota swindon that is where I bought my fluid and they said 2.4lts for a complete change so somebody is not giving the correct information.

Where did you get that information from? I have just had mine done and I bought 5lts and I have half left.

I have my hand book in front of me as well Quote: Fluid capacity drain and refill is 2.4lts (2.5 qt 2.1 Imp.qt) Fluid type is Automatic transmission fluid Type T-IV.

The engine oil is only 5.5lts with filter without filter 5.2lts

So bit of wrong information there for the guy that could have cost him a lot of money through buying far too much fluid which is not cheap

BUMP :mat:

Hi Guys

I am making the most of this gorgeous weather to do some jobs and I want to jack the front of the car up and remove both wheels at the same time,where is the safest place to put the blocks or axle stands.

Cheers

Norman B)

http://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk//

This is the place I bought mine from as it is the correct stuff for our cars Toyota T-IV, I bought the 5lts because you will need 2.5lts for your car and I think I found this was the cheapest way to buy it because they do the 1lts but that means you would have to buy 3 but I like to have some spare in case of leaks etc.

Just look at the site for more information and put in a parts request. can't help with the piping but any good car parts shop should be able to point you in the right direction.

Norman

Mintex on my GS300 no problems

certainly does, i'd been looking for months for a set of the round centre caps off the 11-spoke rims, Lexus wanted £65 inc vat for them, and I managed to eventually get a set of new ones off ebay for £22 delivered, not as much of a bargain as yours, but still a good saving

Had a great result today guys I have wanted an offside Headlight washer actuator Lexus price £211.75 scrapyard prices and some on eBay £105.00 + postage.

I have been patient and kept my eye on eBay and today a bloke was selling one for £20.00 or near offer so I offered £15.00 which he accepted I also had a £2.00 pound voucher from eBay so I got the thing for £19.00 all in.

Pays to be patient and keep looking every so often :winky:

I had a MAN back into my Lexus Grrrrrrrrr

Gutted 4 u, know the feeling

I bet that was a women dressed as a man LOL

Right, been doing a bit of research and found a PDF file, and in particular the cooling section. This may be a long post but I think it will be more concise and hopefully help others to diagnose cooling issues. Some of the references to other sections aren't detailed here but I could make another post and link to it if need be, or just add the referenced sections on the bottom of this post. if you need the images I can upload them onto the end of this post.

COOLANT CHECK AND REPLACEMENT

• CHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL AT RESERVOIR TANK
  • The engine coolant level should be between the "LOW" and "FULL" lines.
    
  • If low, check for leaks and add engine coolant up to the "FULL" line.
    

  [*]CHECK ENGINE COOLANT QUALITY

  • There should not be any excessive deposits of rust or scale around the radiator cap or radiator filler hole, and the coolantshould be free from oil.
    
  • If excessively dirty, replace the coolant.
    

  [*]REPLACE ENGINE COOLANT

  • Remove the radiator cap.
    
  • CAUTION: To avoid the danger of being burned, do not remove the radiator cap while the engine and radiator are still hot, as fluid and steam can be blown out under pressure.
    
  • Loosen the 2 drain plugs (for the engine and radiator), and drain the coolant.
    
  • Close the drain plugs. (Torque:29 Nm (300 kgf cm, 22 ft lbf) for engine
    
  • Slowly fill the system with coolant. Use a good brand of ethylene–glycol base coolant and mix it according to the manufacturer's directions. Using coolant which includes more than 50 % ethylene–glycol (but not more than 70 %) is recommended.
    NOTICE: Do not use an alcohol type coolant. The coolant should be mixed with demineralized water or distilled water. Capacity (w/ Heater): 7.5 liters (7.9 US qts, 6.6 lmp. qts)
    
  • Install the radiator cap.
    
  • Start the engine, and bleed the cooling system.
    
  • Refill the reservoir tank with coolant until it reaches the "FULL" line.
    

THERMOSTAT REMOVAL

• Installation is in reverse order of removal.
  • HINT: Removal of the thermostat would have an adverse effect, causing a lowering of cooling efficiency. Do not remove the thermostat, even if the engine tends to overheat. (I think what this actually means is 'don't permanently remove the thermostat)
    
  • DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
    
  • DISCONNECT WATER INLET FROM WATER PUMP, AND REMOVE THERMOSTAT
    • Remove the 2 nuts holding the water inlet to the water pump, and disconnect the water inlet from the water pump. Torque: 8.8 Nm (90 kgf cm, 78 in.lbf)
      
    • Remove the thermostat.
      
    • Remove the gasket from the thermostat. INSTALLATION HINT: See water pump installation.
      

THERMOSTAT INSPECTION

• INSPECT THERMOSTAT
  • HINT: The thermostat is numbered with the valve opening temperature.
    
  • Immerse the thermostat in water and gradually heat the water.
    
  • Check the valve opening temperature. Valve opening temperature: 80–84°C (176–183°F) If the valve opening temperature is not as specified, replace the thermostat.
    
  • Check the valve lift. Valve lift: 8.5 mm (0.335 in.) or more at 95°C (203°F) If the valve lift is not as specified, replace the thermostat.
    
  • Check that the valve spring is tight when the thermostat is fully closed. If not closed, replace the thermostat.
    

WATER PUMP REMOVAL

• DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
  
• REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  
• REMOVE AIR CLEANER DUCT
  
• REMOVE AIR CLEANER, VAF METER AND INTAKE AIR CONNECTOR PIPE
  
• REMOVE DRIVE BELT, FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND WATER PUMP PULLEY
  • Loosen the 4 nuts holding the fluid coupling to the water pump.
    
  • Loosen the drive belt tension by turning the drive belt tensioner clockwise, and remove the drive belt.
    
  • Remove the 4 nuts, fluid coupling and water pump pulley.
    

  [*]REMOVE RADIATOR ASSEMBLY (See steps 5 and 6 in radiator removal)

  [*]REMOVE WATER INLET AND THERMOSTAT

  • Remove the 2 nuts holding the water inlet to the water pump, and disconnect the water inlet from the water pump.
    
  • Remove the thermostat.
    
  • Remove the gasket from the thermostat.
    

  [*]REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR (See distributor removal in Ignition System)

  [*]REMOVE WATER BYPASS OUTLET AND NO.1 WATER BYPASS PIPE

  • Remove the 2 bolts, water bypass outlet and No.1 water bypass pipe.
    
  • Remove the 3 O–rings from the water bypass outlet and No.1 water bypass pipe.
    

  [*]REMOVE TIMING BELT (See steps 6 to 10 and 12 to 16 in timing belt removal in Engine Mechanical)

  [*]REMOVE IDLER PULLEY (See step 17 in timing belt removal in Engine Mechanical)

  [*]REMOVE WATER PUMP

  • Remove the mounting bolt, and disconnect the engine wire bracket.
    
  • Loosen the generator mounting nut.
    
  • Remove the generator mounting bolt, and disconnect the generator from the water pump.
    
  • Remove the 2 nuts, and disconnect the No.2 water bypass pipe from the water pump.
    
  • Remove the 6 bolts, water pump and gasket.
    
  • Remove the O–ring from the cylinder block.
    

WATER PUMP COMPONENTS INSPECTION

• INSPECT WATER PUMP
  
• Turn the pulley seat, and check that the water pump bearing is not rough or noisy.If necessary, replace the water pump.
  
• INSPECT FLUID COUPLING
  • Remove the 4 nuts and fan from the fluid coupling.
    
  • Check that the fluid coupling is not damaged and that no silicon oil leaks. If necessary, replace the fluid coupling.
    
  • Reinstall the fan to the fluid coupling with the 4 nuts. Torque: 7.4 Nm (75 kgf cm, 65 in. lbf)
    

WATER PUMP INSTALLATION

• INSTALL WATER PUMP
  • Install a new O–ring to the cylinder block.
    
  • Install a new gasket to the water pump.
    
  • Connect the water pump to the water bypass pipe. Do not install the nut yet.
    
  • Install the water pump with the 2 bolts (A) and 4 bolts ( B) . Torque: 21 Nm (210 kgf cm, 15 ft lbf)
    
  • HINT: Hand tighten the (A) bolts first.
    
  • Install the 2 nuts holding the No.2 water bypass pipe to the water pump. Torque: 21 Nm (210 kgf cm, 15 ft lbf)
    
  • Install the generator mounting bolt. Torque: 37 Nm (380 kgf cm, 27 ft lbf)
    
  • Tighten the generator mounting nut. Torque: 37 Nm (380 kgfcm, 27 ftlbf)
    
  • Install the engine wire bracket with the bolt.
    

  [*]INSTALL IDLER PULLEY (See step 2 in timing belt installation in Engine Mechanical)

INSTALL TIMING BELT (See steps 3 to 7 and 9 to 16 in timing belt installation in Engine Mechanical)

• INSTALL WATER BYPASS OUTLET AND NO.1 WATER BYPASS PIPE
  • Install 2 new O–rings to the No.1 water bypass pipe.
    
  • Install a new O–ring and the water bypass outlet with the 2 bolts. Torque: 8.8 Nm (90 kgf cm, 78 in. lbf)
    

• INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR (See steps 3 and 5 to 6 distributor installation in Ignition System)
  
• PLACE THERMOSTAT IN WATER INLET
  • Install a new gasket to the thermostat.
    
  • Align the jiggle valve of the thermostat with the protrusion of the water inlet.
    

  [*]INSTALL WATER INLET

  • Install the water inlet with the 2 nuts. Torque: 8.8 N⋅m (90 kgf⋅cm, 78 in.⋅lbf)
    

  [*]INSTALL RADIATOR ASSEMBLY (See steps 4 and 5 in radiator installation)

  [*]INSTALL WATER PUMP PULLEY, FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND DRIVE BELT

  • Align the matchmarks, and install the water pump pulley and fan fluid coupling with the 4 nuts.
    
  • Install the drive belt by turning the drive belt tensioner clockwise.
    
  • Stretch the belt tight and tighten the 4 nuts. Torque: 16 N⋅m (165 kgf⋅cm, 12 ft⋅lbf)
    

  [*]INSTALL AIR CLEANER, VAF METER AND INTAKE AIR CONNECTOR PIPE

  [*]INSTALL AIR CLEANER DUCT

  [*]FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT

  [*]START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

  [*]CHECK AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL

  [*]CHECK IGNITION TIMING (See ignition timing inspection and adjustment in Engine Mechanical)

  [*]INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER

  [*]ROAD TEST VEHICLE

  • Check for abnormal noise, shock, slippage, correct shift points and smooth operation.
    

  [*]RECHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM

ELECTRIC COOLING FAN (On–Vehicle Inspection)

• CHECK COOLING FAN OPERATION WITH LOW TEMPERATURE (Below 88C (190F)
  • Turn the ignition switch ON.
    
  • Check that the cooling fan stops. If not, check the cooling fan relay and ECT switch, and check for a separated connector or severed wire between the cooling fan relay and ECT switch.
    
  • Disconnect the ECT switch connector.
    
  • Check that the cooling fan rotates. If not, check the fan main relay, cooling fan relay, cooling fan, fuses, and check for short circuit between the cooling fan relay and ECT switch. Reconnect the ECT switch connector.
    

  [*]CHECK COOLING FAN OPERATION WITH HIGH TEMPERATURE (Above 97C (207F)

  • Start the engine, and raise coolant temperature to above 97C (207F)
    
  • Check that the cooling fan rotates If not, replace the ECT switch.
    

COOLING FAN INSPECTION

• INSPECT COOLING FAN
  • Disconnect the fan connector.
    
  • Connect battery and ammeter to the cooling fan connector.
    
  • Check that the cooling fan rotates smoothly, and check the reading on the ammeter. Standard amperage: 6.0–7.4 A
    
  • Reconnect the fan connector
    

COOLING FAN REMOVAL (Installation is in the reverse order of removal)

• REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  
• REMOVE AIR CLEANER DUCT
  
• DISCONNECT UPPER RADIATOR HOSE FROM RADIATOR
  
• REMOVE COOLING FAN
  • Disconnect the cooling fan connector.
    
  • Disconnect the ECT switch wire from the wire clamp
    
  • Remove the 3 bolts and cooling fan.
    

COMPONENTS FOR DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY

COOLING FAN DISASSEMBLY (Assembly is in the reverse order of disassembly)

• REMOVE FAN
  
• REMOVE FAN MOTOR
  • Disconnect the wire and connector from the fan shroud.
    
  • Remove the 3 screws and fan motor.
    

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Switch ECT SWITCH INSPECTION

• REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  
• DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
  
• REMOVE ECT SWITCH
  • Disconnect the ECT switch connector.
    
  • Remove the ECT switch.
    
  • Remove the O–ring the ECT switch.
    

  [*]INSPECT ECT SWITCH

  • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between the terminals when the coolant temperature is above 101C (214F)
    
  • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between the terminals when the coolant temperature is below 91C (196F) If continuity is not as specified, replace the switch.
    

  [*]REINSTALL ECT SWITCH

  • Install a new O–ring to the ECT switch.
    
  • Apply soapy water on the O–ring.
    
  • Install the ECT switch. Torque: 7.4 N⋅m (75 kgf⋅cm, 65 in.⋅lbf)
    
  • Connect the ECT switch connector.
    

  [*]REFILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT

  [*]START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

  [*]REINSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER

Fan Main Relay ("RDI FAN MAIN") FAN MAIN RELAY INSPECTION

• REMOVE RELAY BOX COVER
  
• REMOVE FAN MAIN RELAY
  
• INSPECT FAN MAIN RELAY
  • Inspect relay continuity
    • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminals 3 and 5.
      
    • Check that there is continuity between terminals 2 and 4.
      
    • Check that there is no continuity between terminals 1 and 4. If continuity is not as specified, replace the relay.
      

• Inspect relay operation
  • Apply battery voltage across terminals 3 and 5.
    
  • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between terminals 2 and 4.
    
  • Check that there is continuity between terminals 1 and 2. If operation is not as specified, replace the relay.
    

  [*]REINSTALL FAN MAIN RELAY

  [*]REINSTALL RELAY BOX COVER

Cooling Fan Relay ("RDI FAN") COOLING FAN RELAY INSPECTION

• REMOVE RELAY BOX COVER
  
• REMOVE COOLING FAN RELAY
  
• INSPECT COOLING FAN RELAY
  • Inspect relay continuity
    • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminals 1 and 2.
      
    • Check that there is continuity between terminals 3 and 4. If continuity is not as specified, replace the relay.
      

  [*]Inspect relay operation

  • Apply battery voltage across terminals 1 and 2.
    
  • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between terminals 3 and 4. If operation is not as specified, replace the relay.
    

  [*]REINSTALL COOLING FAN RELAY

  [*]REINSTALL RELAY BOX COVER

RADIATOR REMOVAL

• REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  
• DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
  
• REMOVE AIR CLEANER DUCT
  
• REMOVE NO.2 FAN SHROUD
  • Remove the 2 clips.
    
  • Disconnect the claw of the No.2 fan shroud from the hook of the No.1 fan shroud, and remove the No.2 fan shroud.
    

  [*]DISCONNECT HOSES FROM RADIATOR Disconnect these hoses from the radiator:

  • Reservoir tank inlet hose
    
  • Upper radiator hose
    
  • Lower radiator hose
    
  • 2 A/T oil cooler hoses (Plug the hose ends)
    

  [*]REMOVE RADIATOR ASSEMBLY

  • Disconnect the ECT switch for electric cooling fan connector and wire.
    
  • Disconnect the electric cooling fan connector and wire.
    
  • Remove the nut and upper radiator support. Remove the 2 upper radiator supports.
    
  • Lift out the radiator assembly.
    
  • Remove the 2 lower radiator supports.
    

  [*]REMOVE ELECTRIC COOLING FAN FROM RADIATOR

  [*]REMOVE NO.1 FAN SHROUD FROM RADIATOR

  • Remove the 2 bolts.
    
  • Disconnect the lower sides of the No.1 fan shroud from the 2 hooks of the radiator, and remove the radiator.
    
  • Remove the 2 cushions from the No.1 fan shroud.
    

  [*]REMOVE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SWITCH FROM RADIATOR

  • Remove the ECT switch.
    
  • Remove the O–ring from the ECT switch
    

RADIATOR INSTALLATION

• INSTALL ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SWITCH TO RADIATOR
  • Install a new O–ring to the ECT switch.
    
  • Apply soapy water to the O–ring.
    
  • Install the ECT switch. Torque: 7.4 N⋅m (75 kgf⋅cm, 65 in.⋅lbf)
    

  [*]INSTALL NO.1 FAN SHROUD TO RADIATOR

  • Install the 2 cushions to the radiator.
    
  • Connect the lower sides of the No.1 fan shroud to the 2 hooks of the radiator.
    
  • Install the No.1 fan shroud with the 2 bolts.
    

  [*]INSTALL ELECTRIC COOLING FAN TO RADIATOR

  [*]INSTALL RADIATOR ASSEMBLY

  • Install the 2 lower radiator supports to the radiator.
    
  • Place the radiator assembly on the body bracket.
    
  • Install the radiator with the 2 upper radiator supports and 2 nuts. Torque: 12 N⋅m (120 kgf⋅cm, 9 ft⋅lbf) HINT: After installation, check that the rubber cushion (A) of the support is not depressed.
    
  • Connect the electric cooling fan connector and wire.
    
  • Connect the ECT switch (for electric cooling fan) connector and wire.
    

  [*]CONNECT HOSES TO RADIATOR

  [*]INSTALL NO.2 FAN SHROUD

  • Connect the claw of the No.2 fan shroud from the hook of the No.1 fan shroud.
    
  • Install the No.2 fan shroud with the 2 clips.
    

  [*]INSTALL AIR CLEANER DUCT

  [*]FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT

  [*]CHECK AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL

  [*]START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

  [*]INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER

Nice write up there Buddy all this information can save us so much time that's what forums are all about,well done for taking the time.

Norman