madasafish

Cataclean:

Used it on a 14 year old 1.0 Yaris where the cat was failing. (read fault codes) .Worked for 20 miles - the warning light went out. Then I discovered the cat had a hole in it and needed a new one anyway.. Then the warning light came on again - same fault code.

So my view is: if you have a cat fault, and the cat is old, it's likely to be b*****ed - so save your money and buy a new cat.

, maybe without MOT - wrote some strange advise about engine plastic covers which obstruct view of engine...

Standard on MOTs where they cannot inspect fuel pipelines due to engine covers.

Son had it on 2012 Yaris.

But then it is no longer a survey just on reliability though.. it is?

No. And once you take cost into account, no car costing over c £40k is ever going to be reliable by that measure due to the costs of spares and labour. But I suppose they need to weight results otherwise an engine failure could equate to the failure of a wiper blade.. for example..

Hoping to hear from anyone who owns a CT, and how the fuel consumption stands up to

Manufacturers claims, have heard that 69mpg is not realistic.

Is it a good Car, whats it like to live with , etc.

Rgds, Tony.

Hi there,

Stumbled across this thread when severely disappointed with our MPG figures (800 miles).

I have done all the things you read about - driven smoothly, no hard accelerating, and almost zero braking (planning ahead), maintaining fixed speed etc. - all added up to 47mpg! We're seeing our dealer to see what else we can do to improve things, but at the moment it's a bit of a joke.

One very revealing thing (and the main reason I'm posting) is that the EPA (USA equivalent of our EU testing) rates the car at 42mpg. Does that kind of number sound familiar? I thought so... seems like they know how to test a bit more realistically! Given the octane difference between the US and UK, plus my obsessive driving style, 47mpg seems ok now.

So.. buyer beware... I know I'll be checking the EPA figures before buying my next car!

Raj

Sorry but your car is not run in. Report back after 5,000 miles.

"all manufaturers are guilty of such false fuel claims. "

No claims are false: if you read the thread all claims are carried out under EU mandated test conditions. These are unrealistic.

I bought a car for fuel consumption, I'd do some basic homework and read - rather than making erroneous and libellous statements.

Basically it's all about risk.

Anyone who drives using a mobile and is caught is clearly a higher risk driver than someone who does not use a mobile.

(and in my view a danger to society).

So a premium increase in justified: I object to subsidising dangerous drivers who are more risky than me as a result of deliberately breaking the law

I have a 7 year old Yaris d4d and average 57mpg around town#.. About 65 on long runs.. I don't drive fast but don't drive slowly either.

# Figures from over 5 years' worth of consumption

Any hybrid which can't better that is not worth it to me.

Having said that, I followed a CT 200H home this morning in Stoke on Trent, and it looked great - from the rear...

I've been patient - waiting to buy under £5k. Race detween depreciation and the Grim Reaper?

I used to tow a 2 tonne caravan with a 1983 Jaguar xj6 4.2 litre. (Auto). Never had a transmission oil cooler and managed to average over 60mph on motorways.*

If you did lots of Alps with a big van ? Yes.

Occasional trips with a small van? No.

* and 15mpg....

I always use price comparison sites and reduced my insurance costs 30% this year using Saga..

Your insurance company think you are a rich idiot so they treat you like one.

I drove a brand new company owned Allegro to Scotland in 1974. Near Montrose the oil warning light came on round a corner. I stopped and looked underneath, The engine drain plug was loose and on its last thread and oil was oozing out. Tightened it by hand with a cloth and drove very slowly to the nearest garage where it took nearly 1.5 litres of oil.

I am looking for a GS300 of your car's date.

£2800 is overpriced by c £1,000 and it is SO much higher I - if interested - would walk away. Why? Not worth the hassle as buyers asking silly prices tend to react badly to negotiation on price.

Sorry £2800 is silly money.

If you are in a hurry start under £2,000 and add ono.

Otherwise no-one will want to know.

I expect prices to fall further due to fuel and the economy.. As a possible buyer I wait for the right car and price..

As for what you have spent, on a second hand old car, that expenditure is worth : nothing. Just a selling attraction. Lots of cars around: some with very low miles and fsh. Over 100k miles cars are commonplace and have to be attractively priced to attract attention, let alone sell...

Edit: apologies for my bluntness.

To get any significant volume you need lots of amps and the energy comes from? The petrol you burn to drive the alternator...

So we now have an infinite supply of free energy and broken the laws of physics?

Great.. Put it in a power station and get free electricity. Global warming is no more.

It's rubbish and demonstrably so. There are no objective quantified tests... a clear sign of bull****.

1929 Riley 9 Monaco (fabric body £75)

1953 Austin A30

1947 MG TC (heap: scrapped)

1956 Austin A35

1954 Rover 75

1959 Standard 10

1947 Rover 16 (immaculate)

1960 Mini 1000 estate (no dimples in roof so body flexed)

1974Austin Allegro 1500 (company car)

1977 Austin Allegro 1300 (company car CC)

1978 Mini Clubman estate CC

1973 Triumph 2.5PI (went like stink a money pit)

1982 Ford Granada 2.3 CC

1985 Volvo 740 CC

1982 Jaguar XJ6 3.4 (slow)

1986 Rover Montego CC (awful)

1987 Mercedes 260E CC- nice car but handling suspect on high speed bends.

1992 Rover Montego Estate cheap

1992 Ford Sierra 1.8 estate CC

Then a series of Rover 800s as company cars: petrol x2 ,diesel x1. All awful unreliable wallowing junk

1967 Lotus Elan Series 3 Coupe tuned to 130bhp.. hooligan stuff

1992 BMW 320i

1997 BMW316I CC

1998 BMW 318i CC

1999 Audi A4 TDI. Economical but noisy

2001 Ford Fiesta 1.6 ghia: gokart like handling

2003 Toyota Yaris 1.4 Diesel T Spirit.. 60mpg . Fun to drive Still have.

The above ignores a series of cars owned and driven by my wife:-)

Waiting for Lexus LS400 prices to collapse a little further in 2009.

(I may have missed a few cars..)

ADVICE ..free!

To brace against the hammer impact. Take another stilson. Connect to rod but so it reists twisting action.. place end on top of a jack/axle stand.

So what you end up doing is using a hammer to move the nut and another stilson to prevent the tie rod bar from rotating. (stilson or moel wrnech --- very vry tight).

Cocal cola is expensive. I find a bath in VINEGAR works better.

A 24 jhour soaking is best or more... Use a plastic bag wrapped round a small sponge full of vinegar wrapped round joint).

Sponges : 30p from Morrisons Supermarkets for a car washing sponge....

Vinegar: best recycled from empty pickled onion jars. Also good to mix with washing water in bucket when washing car: leaves windows and paint smear free.. Alos washing household windows...

I was not brought up in Aberdeen for nothing... :-)

ADVICE ..free!

To brace against the hammer impact. Take another stilson. Connect to rod but so it reists twisting action.. place end on top of a jack/axle stand.

So what you end up doing is using a hammer to move the nut and another stilson to prevent the tie rod bar from rotating. (stilson or moel wrnech --- very vry tight).

Cocal cola is expensive. I find a bath in VINEGAR works better.

A 24 jhour soaking is best or more... Use a plastic bag wrapped round a small sponge full of vinegar wrapped round joint).

Sponges : 30p from Morrisons Supermarkets for a car washing sponge....

Vinegar: best recycled from empty pickled onion jars. Also good to mix with washing water in bucket when washing car: leaves windows and paint smear free.. Alos washing household windows...

I was not brought up in Aberdeen for nothing... :-)

I use a stilson wrench and a heavy (3kg) lump hammer. The shock impact of the hammer makes all the difference.

Hammers are also great for loosening very tight nuts (150ftlbs+) and avoid the use of pipewrenches.. You do need very good fitting sockets/ spanners or stilsons though.

Heating will help but there is a LOT of metal to heat.