dral

Looks good, and very interesting as i'm just about to move to a new place and the first thing i need to do is build a garage.

Could i be really rude and ask what sort of costs are involved? I'm just sorting out budgets so any info would be really useful (by pm if prefer?)

I need to replace my warped discs and thought if I replace them, than why not get better ones I have decided on Turbo Grooved discs but I am unsure on what pads. Some people have told me to go with green stuff as the car has under 200bhp, But with the car being quite heavy would Red stuff be better?

If anyone has got the turbo grooved discs could they post a picture please or direct me to one as I want to have a look before I buy.

Cheers guys.

EBC pads in general are about the worst aftermarket pad i've seen. Green are too soft, i've seen the friction material disintergrate on heavy road/light track use. Red needs temperature to get working and will give poor braking when cold, like when you first head off or after driving without much use (like motorways).

The new yellow compound is supposed to be much better, and good for road and use on heavier cars although i've not tried it.

Personally, i like Ferrodo pads, DS2500 are very good, mintex (1144 i think) are commonly recommended too.

The EBS discs however are very good, well priced and i've seen them hold up very well under extreme use (even high powered Evo's on track) but they're also great day to day.

There's a lot of pad options out there, and it can be a very personal thing as to what you like/don't like. Personally i like a combination of Ferrrodo DS2500 pads with EBC discs, it gives good, reliable performance on the road and track. I know that track use can seem a bit extreme, but Lexus car tend to be heavy with a decent amount of power to a stronger pad is useful even on the road.

As a side note actually warping discs is very difficult and rare. Generally vibration is caused by pads deposits on the surface. This can happen, particularly if the brakes are regularly used lightly. Sometimes doing a couple of very hard stops (in a safe place of course) can scrape the discs clean and alleviate any vibration.

No problem. :)

Without a starter the AA won't be able jump start it, they'll have to take it over on a flat bed.

Sometimes with some persistance, knocking the starter with a stick or manually turning the engine via the pully will get it engaged so you can drive over. The AA guy can give that go for you.

I am a newbie so please go easy on me. I have come from a supra to the gs300. But the car won't start anymore. I am aware its most likely a starter motor solenoid problem from what I have read (I get the click click sound), so I bought some new solenoid bits to refurb the motor.... problem is...

How do I get the starter motor out!?? I have searched on here and read some people say they got it out within 10 mins, others say it took hours. What is the easiest way of getting to it?

I am kinda baffled on how to remove it. Would sincerely really appreciate your help. I thought I'd battle this task myself rather than take it to a garage

I've just been through this...

Removing the starter is tricky, it's held on by two bolts that you have to get under car to get at, and i need a long extension (20cm)and a flexi joint on a socket to reach and remove the bottom one, i used two extension bars to get to top one. Space is tight too, you can't touch the bolts easily. Then there is a nut (easy to reach) to remove so you can take the Battery off (disconnect it first), and one small plug holding the wire to turn the starter on. I undid the clips holding the fuel lines in place then that gives enough room to wiggle the starter down out of the bottom of the car.

Getting the new one in is fiddly, you need to get it through the gap, then balance it so the flanges line up with bolts and tighten it on. I managed the job alone, but if you know someone with long thin arms who can reach in from the top and hold the starter in place it'd be much easier.

Fix the bolts, (try to torque them the right force, about 38nm i think, but check that) put the power feed and plug back on and you're done. There's not much to do, but it is tricky so be patient.

I ended up taking mine off a few times, i tried to repair the solenoid, but the kit i got from eBay didn't have quite the right terminal on (one's straight, but the other should be offset slightly, both were straight in the kit) so that i had to take it off again, i bought replacement starter, fitted it then realised that the plug was different...finally i built one good starter from the new and old ones, and that went on and is working fine.

It should take you a couple of hours to do, and it'd be easier on proper lift, i was working under ramps and space was a little tight but i managed.

Oh, and check that the everything fits before you bolt it all back up....

Perhaps Lexus IS models aren't a good example as the engine range is limited but suppose you take a 3 series model range, you can have a 318, 320, 325, 330, etc I've never quite understood why one would actually need to buy a 330? If you stick to speed limits, etc, defensive driving surely that extra power over say a 320 (as a standard size) would never be used unless you were on the run from the police!

What's the point of the extra money for that size engine and lower mpg, higher insurance premium/insurance group, etc.

No logic, no real point, both will get you around. But getting around isn't all some people want from a car, you included, you could have toyota yaris for far less than the price of your Lexus...it'll carry 4 people to speed limit too...

Guy's,

Done a search and found out how to remove the aerial and replace the cord but my problem is a little different. My aerial works, goes up and down with the headunit turned on or off. The problem is that it never retracts fully into it's sleeve. So, there is always 15 cm or so left up?

Is there any quick fixes with this, has anyone ever had a similar problem, if so, what did you do?

Cheers,

Phil

Clean and oil it.

Use some WD40 spray to clean it out, lift and lower it a few times, then put some thicker oil on to keep it lubricated.

There is a 15 Amp "CIG" fuse that powers both lighters. If both lighters are off, then that would be the one that is gone. The other tell tale sign is if the clock doesn't come on. The "DOM" fuse supplies the permanent 12V to the clock, the "CIG" fuse powers the display.

If the fuse is ok, and the other lighter works, then I would suspect a broken or rusted socket.

My front socket on my GS stopped working after using a tyre pump in it, the fuses were fine (check the clock as mentioned). I took the socket apart and there was a small wire connecting the contacts together in the back of the socket that had over heated and come loose, it was a five minute fix to replace the wire.

The ashtray unit just pulls out (there are four spring clips holding it in, two on each side, then a removing a few screws and a nut will get the socket apart.

I had the same thing with the same bank. They did send out the rates to me, about 6 months or so before i got a couple of hundred quid in unauthourised charges, but it went in the heap with all the other circular mail that comes through the letterbox.

It's an outrageous cost, but they do tell you about it, leaving you with little choice but to pay. I tried to get the fee reduced, but none of the banks seem to be as flexible as they were...

I do my best to make sure that i don't exceed my balance these days, but it was an expensive lesson to learn.

A tip in my car magazine this month suggests that carburettor cleaner is better at jammed barrels than WD40.

Thanks for the tip, a bit of wiggling and a firm pull got it out (oo..er).

I got some dry graphite powder from a locksmith and worked that into the lock, it all seems to be working fine now.

gs 300 mk2 1998 went to take key out to fast now stuck whats the deal help

Any good solution for this? I've just bought a new spare key, and it's now stuck in the ignition. I can turn it and start the car, but it's not coming out. I've put it in and out of park, made sure the steering lock's not on and even got the parking brake on.

I'll have a go with some wiggling and WD40, but any tips. I'm guessing it's likely to happen agian so it's time for a new ignition barrel?

Having tried to source one for a LONG time myself, I'd say your best bet is to have new LEDs soldered on to the light strip. Lexus could not get hold of a spoiler for me, or a light strip. Maybe a breakers yard?

I'd just re-solder some LEDs myself.

Thanks for the reply. I couldn't get a replacement from Lexus either. I found a loose connection which got it lighting, but there are a couple of dull LEDs. I don't suppose anyone knows the spec of the LEDs? I'm guessing a 12V superbright clear red one?

For anyone else who looks, the earth went to a point on the body off the rear wing on the right hand side, the power comes was spliced in on the brake light power feed at the bulb failure sensor, which is mounted in the same wing.

I'm getting there with the few jobs my GS needed. :)

The high level brake light in spoiler isn't working, has anyone else had this problem.

I've just taken the light out, it was quite tricky, it was stuck in with two screws and black silicon sealant, is that normal?

I've traced the wires down to the boot, but not stripped out the lining yet, i'm guessing the wires are joined in at the brake light, has anyone stripped that down before?

Is it possible to buy a new LED cluster, has anyone replaced theirs?

Any help gratefully received.

Should of bought mine !haha

If you decide to get rid of gold badges, ill take them for mine mate, can give you mine but they are quite corroded and need re-electroplating

lol. If i'd bought yours i would have missed out on the fun of trying to get those boot rams off....

I'll be swapping them at the weekend, i've ordered some replacements already. The gold ones are a bit dull and there is crack in one, but i'll get them off as gently as i can and you're welcome to them. PM me your address and i'll put them in the post to you next week.

Best way is ring up mate and just ask, some do, some don't, seems to vary to be honest, sometimes it'll say on the site they do and when you ask they don't do it anymore!

Ok, thanks.

Nice one, look forward to seeing it :)

I'll get some photos at the weekend :)

I many have more than a few questions as well... ;)

First one, where can i find out if Lexus Leeds offer discount to gold members?

Moderators Note:

Only Gold members are entitled to offer goods for sale

Well, i collected one at the weekend. Not the blue one but a black one from over in manchester that was up on e-bay.

It's a straight forward 1996 Sport, black with 84K miles. It had some early service history, but nothing but MOT certificates to show what's happened the last few years.

It does need a few things, the tyres are terrible (fronts worn and the rear are cheapo one, with a puncture on driverside), then i've got the normal a/c bulbs to replace, the boot rams to sort out, and it only came with one key. It's got gold badges one, which i'm going to swap back to silver, and could do with a good clean.

I've got some new tyres coming (Toyo T-1Rs), and i've ordered a phone kit and hardwired ipod interface, i'm debating swapping the gas rams, srs for £40 if can get the bolts off, otherwise it's £200 and Lexus will fit new ones for me. I've ordered a cam belt and tensioner kit which i'll get on to be safe.

All in all it's good pretty good shape, although the last couple of owners have been a bit lacking in care, hopefully i'll have it all put right soon. :)

I'd be more worried about the tow bar. What's it been towing, it could reduce the engine life by half.

I'd also be more concerned about what it's been towing but not out of concern for the engine. I would be worried about the gearbox if an auxilliary oil cooler isn't fitted unless it has been towing a small trailer. Should be OK if it has a 25mm towball as they would not tow anything bar a fairly light trailer with 25mm ball.

I'm guessing as has twin electrics it was for a caravan. Depends how much use it got really. I was going to check for the extra oil cooler and check the transmission fluid looked good and see how it shifted. From what i've read unless it had been worked really i wasn't too worried (i'll probably use it myself to move light cars about on occasion)

10" rear wheels were an option. Most sports will have the standard 8" ones all round.

Thanks, that's reassurring. The car's at the other end of the country form me so i'd like to be sure it's as it should be before i make the trip.

So it'll have the same 245 width tyres front and rear too?

Hi,

I'm looking for a GS300 sport at the moment, after lots of calls to find the car had gone i've found this one.

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/414155.htm

It's looks good, and subject to checks i'm hoping to pick it up next week.

One thing is troubling me though, some photos or other cars i've seen show the rear 10" wheel as slightly dished in, the photos on this one seem that the front and rear are same. Has it got front wheels on the back?